The process of disassembling the washing machine
Let’s start with the tools you need. As I started out not knowing what I need tools I looked for in the course of the repair. Here is a list of all the tools you will need.
The list of tools you need:
Since to replace the bearings you need to get to the drum of the machine, you need to disassemble it completely. Some models have a special cover on the back that allows access to the motor, belt without disassembly. However, on my model had to disassemble it completely. You need enough space to work with and arrange the parts.
Begin disassembly. First you need to remove the upper cover, which is fastened with two self-tapping screws on the back side. To remove the cover you need to move it away from the face of the machine and lift it up.
Removing the detergent drawer. The tank is taken out and the three hoses are disconnected from it, they are clamped with metal clamps. These clamps can be easily unscrewed with a pair of pliers.
After removing the cover the large counterweight is immediately visible. The names of the parts are mine as I do not know what they are really called, but I think you will understand everything. Remove the large counterweight which is attached by two long bolts.
Unscrew the bolts and remove the counterweight by lifting up.
The counterweight is not light, so don’t drop it so you won’t break it. It looks like a molded block of cement mortar.
The body of the machine with the drum is connected to the rubber cover, which is attached to the drum with a large steel wire clamp. It is loosened by unscrewing the bolt.
The drum shell without counterweight (top view).
Next, lay the machine on its side and remove the bottom cover. It is made of plastic and is held by 4 screws. Unscrew and remove.
Behind the bottom cover we find the small counterweight, the electric motor and the pump attached to the drum body. The whole structure is supported on the machine body by two shock absorbers.
Next we need to disconnect all cables from the motor and pump contacts.
Unscrew the two shock absorbers from the washing machine body, which are bolted.
At the top cover side the water inlet is connected to the housing, unscrew it without disconnecting the wire. (the wires won’t get in the way).
The drum housing is supported on top by spring hangers. Use the pliers to first detach the hooks from the drum body and then from the body of the machine. It is a bit of a pain, but it works out very well!
To remove the drum it is necessary to remove the front of the washing machine. First unscrew the control panel and then remove the front with the door. All of them are fixed with self-tapping screws. the electric screwdriver did it in half a minute.
And here we have the disassembled machine housing. Unscrew the small counterweight to ease removal of the drum shell.
Now carefully take out the body of the drum and place it on the floor. In front of us the main part of the washer.
At the back, remove the belt that connects the drum wheel and the electric motor.
The hex 8 bolt attaches the wheel to the housing. Unscrew it and remove the wheel.
First unscrew the shock absorbers, the bolts are not unscrewed all the way, but only to release the other half of the housing. The shock absorbers are not only attached to the body of the drum, but also tighten it.
The housing consists of two parts, which are clamped together with brackets and clamps. It is easy to use a wrench to remove the clamps.
With a flat screwdriver you can easily remove the brackets.
Once again I remind you to make the marks to assemble the case correctly.
Open the case and observe what is inside.
After I opened the drum case, I saw an unpleasant picture. The heating element was completely covered with limescale. The plastic body itself inside and the drum were covered with limescale.
The heating element is not easy to remove. On the outside, the nut is unscrewed and it is squeezed out. It needs to be descaled beforehand. The element is secured by a rubber band that expands after the nut is tightened.
Now disconnect the drum from the other half of the body.
Removing the drum showed that the oil seal was in bad shape. The gasket is supposed to protect the bearing from moisture, but it got to them, and they started making noise when running.
All of the scale was removed from the housing with an ordinary metal dishwashing brush. It doesn’t scratch and does its job well. I got two piles full of limescale.
The outer bearing was fine, however I decided to replace all the bearings. The outer (aka small) element I knocked out from the inside with a thick screwdriver and a hammer, gently tapping on the bearing rings. Care must be taken here because the bearing is in the aluminium sleeve so as not to scratch it. The inner bearing (large) was knocked out from the outside inside with a metal tube of similar diameter.
New bearings are hammered carefully into place with a hammer on a wooden bar.
The washing machine is assembled in reverse order.
Step one. the selection of parts
To find the right repair kit will need the full name of the model. It is located above the service sticker barcode, on the back of the washing machine.
Take a picture or write down the name. the specialists will help you find the part. Perhaps the necessary modification is shown in the table.
Then it is easy to buy a bearing in an online store. The last way is to disassemble the machine to see what bearings are in the washing machine “Samsung”. This option has a big plus. by dismantling the CM parts, you can find other defects, breakdowns (belt, cross, spigots), and immediately buy everything you need.
How much is the bearing on the CM Samsung?
For replacement you will need 2 bearings. inner, outer, necessarily a new gland. That’s why it makes more sense to buy a repair kit.
Removing the tank
So, we are all ready and you can start. To get to the bearing we first need to remove the tank, which must be freed from all parts that hold it in place. In this chapter we will go step by step through all the steps of the disassembly.
Tip! Before starting the repair, be sure to unplug the appliance from the socket to avoid electric shock.
Step 1. removing the top cover
The construction of the washing machine is designed so that the parts are connected to each other not only by screws and screws, but also with special latches and metal tabs. For this reason, both disassembly and reassembly are performed in the same order. Let’s say right away that this doesn’t mean that there is no other way to replace the bearing, we chose the fastest and most correct way in our opinion.
So, starting with taking off the top lid. It is held by two screws located on the back side. Unscrew it with a Phillips screwdriver.
Tip! To avoid mixing up the fasteners, it is a good idea to sort them all at once, or better yet, label them in some way. This way, normal reassembly will be guaranteed.
Then slide the cover backwards, releasing it from its fixation to the front control panel. Put it aside so that it does not interfere with you.
Step 2. removing the powder box
Proceed to the removal of the upper front panel, which houses the board. “brains” of the washing machine. We begin by removing the powder collector. this is the moving part, which we pull out to put the detergent. Pull it all the way out, find the plastic lever at the base as shown in the photo, press it down and pull the part towards you again. It comes out easily, not much effort is needed not to break anything.
Step 3. unscrewing the panel
Next we unscrew the two screws that were behind the powder box. In the picture we marked them with red arrows.
Unfolding the machine. On the other side there is another screw that you also need to unscrew.
Step 4. removing the upper panel
Pull the bottom edge of the panel to release it from the top latches, clinging to the metal housing of the device. Then turn the panel upside down gently, but don’t twist it. On the back you will see that there are a lot of wires connected by connectors, there are 5 of them on this model. Pull them out one by one, unclicking the locks if there are any. It is impossible to put them in the wrong place during re-assembly, as they are either uniquely shaped or marked with different colors.
Step 5. remove the bottom panel
Next remove the bottom panel. There are only three pawls to attach it. To remove it, we will use a slotted screwdriver, which should be slipped into the gap between the panels (front and bottom) and gently pick up the part. Do so around the edges and center, and then remove the element also to the side.
Step 6. Removal of the Front Panel
Now let’s take off the biggest panel that the door is mounted on. At the bottom of it hold 4 screws, which, as you can easily guess, also unscrew.
The panel is fastened in the same way on the top with 4 self-tapping screws. As you can see, you have to do a lot of twisting, so the craftsman uses an electric screwdriver, which is very light and compact, and will do the job just fine.
The panel, freed from the screws, remains hanging due to small hooks. Do not hurry to remove it, because we still need to see what is happening behind the door.
Step 7. removing the rubber part from the panel
Having opened the door, you will see that the panel is additionally connected to the rubber part that connects it and the tank of the washing machine. Bend back the edge. Behind it will be a tightening metal clamp in the form of a spring. It is necessary to find its latch and open it with a flat screwdriver. Send the clamp inside the tank so it doesn’t get lost.
Now pick up the edges of the rubber adapter and pull it off the front panel. After that, carefully remove the panel from the hooks and turn it over. Don’t pull it as there is a locking latch on the back side that the wires go to. Carefully disconnect them. now the part is free.
Step 8. Removing the part with the powder collector
To ensure that nothing will prevent you from working in the future, we advise you to immediately remove that part of the washing machine housing on which the powder collector is mounted. This part will be removed along with it, as well as the water valve. The valve is shown in the picture. the thread for the water inlet hose comes out from it.
So, disconnect the wires coming to the valve. there is only one plug. Then unscrew the two screws on the back of the washing machine that hold the part.
At the front, this part of the body is held in place by 7 screws, the location of which we have marked in the photo. We unscrew everything and remove the part, gently nudging the valve so that it does not cling to the edges of the hole with the thread.
All removable construction is still held by two branch pipes which go from the powder collector. a branch pipe of the nozzle through which air goes out of the tank and an inlet pipe through which water is supplied. They are fixed by means of steel clamps, which should be squeezed and pull out the part.
Also note that on the other edge, the wires going to the board may be tied on a plastic tie to the part of the enclosure that is being removed. Carefully cut it with scissors, after which, finally, the element can be removed.
Step 9. disconnect everything that is in the way from the bottom
Turning to the bottom of the washing machine. To remove the tank, we need to disconnect it from everything that is connected to it. In this part it is: 1 and 3. wires energizing heater; 2. temperature sensor (under it will be a small ground wire, which in the photo is not visible); 4. Branch pipe on presostat; 5. drain pipe; 6. shock absorbers; 7. wire supplying the motor.
Disconnect these elements can be directly in the same order as they are listed above. Note that they can be further tightened to secure them with wire. They cling to various nodes, so unscrew everything carefully so as not to damage anything. The released wires should be removed to the sides, and, if possible, fix them, because they can get caught in the tank when it is removed.
Tip! In general, working inside it is very easy to hurt your hands, so buy thin gloves that will protect the skin.
The drainage pipe is attached to the tank on a clamp tightened with a screw. It should be unscrewed using a Phillips screwdriver.
The tank shock absorbers are attached to the body with two bolts. They are located in the depth of the machine, so you need a long socket head, as in the photo.
Pay attention to the fact that the designers of the company have thought over how to reach the bolts. there are special holes in the front of the case on both sides. It is possible to unscrew the fasteners with wrenches, but it is long, inconvenient, and all hands are scratched.
Then we need to bend the shock absorbers to the center a little, so that they do not interfere in the future.
Step 10. removing weights
Basically the tank is released and can be removed, but the screwed down weights make it look very heavy. We recommend to screw them together with a wrench beforehand in order not to tear them up. One weight is on the bottom and one on the top of the tank.
Interesting to know! Now weights are used concrete, but in the past the machines were made of cast iron and steel parts. The material was changed for an understandable reason. to reduce the production cost.
Step 11. removing the tank
Now the tank is hanging on top springs only. Lift it and take out the weights from the holes they cling to.
Learn what the error codes of Ariston washing machines mean with a step-by-step disassembly, in a special article on our portal.
Assembling a Samsung washing machine
The first thing that the owner of a Samsung washing machine will need to do is to install the drum with the pulley in its original place and assemble the tank. Between its halves should be applied sealant to avoid leaks. Sealant must be able to withstand high temperatures and an alkaline environment, so it is worth choosing only high-quality material.
To assemble the washing machine Samsung should be in reverse order, if during disassembly were made photographs. it is recommended to compare with them, it will greatly simplify the process and avoid mistakes, especially when connecting wiring.
After assembly, you need to leave the washing machine Samsung for the time it will take for the sealant to fully cure. After that the technique should be connected to the water supply and drain, turn on the network, pour a small amount of detergent and run a test wash. It is needed to wash out dirt, grease and to eliminate unpleasant smells which could appear during repair. After completing the program, you need to look under the washing machine and make sure it is not leaking and there is no moisture underneath.
If during the test washing, the Samsung washing machine works quietly, does not make strange noises and does not leak, it indicates that the owner of the device has successfully replaced the bearings and completed the repair.
Why do I need to change the bearings?
Washing machine bearings have a very important function. they help to ensure the drum rotates correctly and evenly. Due to the fact that the latter performs a large number of revolutions, they quickly fail and must be replaced in a timely manner.
Worn bearings can provoke a failure in the process of washing and spinning the laundry, as well as a strong noise when the machine works. If you do not replace the parts in time, the drum can fail, the repair of which will cost you a lot of money.
Bearings for washing machines Bosch
| Bosch WFB 1602 | 6204, 6205 ZZ | 30x52x9,5 |
| Bosch WFC 1263 OE/10 | 6306, 6305 ZZ | 35x72x10 |
| Bosch WFC 1600 | 6305, 6306 ZZ | 35x72x10 |
| Bosch WFC 2060 | 6306, 6305 ZZ | 35x72x10 |
The most common bearings for Candy washing machines are SKF 6204 and 6205, these models are installed in 90% of the machines.
Top rated
A hit-parade of the most reliable bearings, gathered from the reviews of technicians (the question was asked directly), as well as according to forum ratings and based on our vote.
KOYO is a Japanese manufacturer cooperating with Toyota. One of the best bearings for industrial laundries, expensive high-speed models Kuppersbusch, Haier, Electrolux, Miele, Bosch, AEG. Very precise assembly, long life (although they like to lubricate), but also the price is one of the most expensive.
SKF is a Swedish company, an iconic manufacturer of bearings for all appliances, cars, equipment and machines. Plants are located all over the world. In Russia, for some reason quoted bearings from France, although Italy, Bulgaria or even China is not worse. As for the “out of the box” or “out of paper” criteria, the box is still preferable, there is less chance of getting a fake.
Timken is an American brand. The special technology with a deep groove, the maximum service life. the longest, with a live oil seal and 15 years will work. On the downside, there are often fakes.
CX is a Polish mass-produced. You also come across products made in China. In general, good and affordable products, but sometimes there are batches with defects. Somewhere there are scratches on the outside of the cage, somewhere there are defects in the plastic plugs. Also the CX is considered noisier.
NSK is Japanese brand, both original ones and ones under license from Poland go to Russia. Have a very good protection from moisture and minor abrasions (especially models with a rubber anther), high-quality steel. There is an opinion that they last a long time, but they do not withstand overloads and vibrations very well.
�� DIY: BEST Samsung FL Washer Bearing Replacement | Step by Step Guide
FBJ. according to the official version of the bearings are made under Japanese license, but in fact it is some international manufacturer from Asian countries. China, Singapore, Taiwan, etc. If in cars the FBJ do not run very well, then in washing machines they last a long time, especially with the rubber-plastic protective inserts.
JVB is a Chinese manufacturer. Something special is hard to say, just sometimes seen in the markets and stores. Acceptable.
CRAFT. of Chinese/Lithuanian origin. One of the best value for money. It meets all state standards, is not counterfeited, it costs cheap. There are workshops, which fully work with these bearings, the warranty period is maintained. The quality sometimes floats, but in general, not bad.
VPZ (VBF). Russian bearings, Vologda plant. Among the owners of automatic washing machines and craftsmen have different opinions. Basically everyone notes the increased level of durability in recent years.
EBI. some unscrupulous firms are positioned as the Italian, but in fact it is China.
Very often the bearings for the washing machine come in a package Ariston, Indesit, Ariston, Bosch, and so on in the form of prefabricated “hodgepodge,” which can be as eminent manufacturers as the Chinese Noname. Many customers are mistaken when they think that if the brand name of the washing machine is written on the package, it is the original.
The step by step guide on how to replace the bearing in a Samsung washing machine with your hands
Although Samsung washing machines are considered the most reliable and durable in operation, after several years of uninterrupted operation, a breakdown can still occur.
If a bearing fails, a repair is needed. To cope with it on their own is difficult, but possible.
On how to replace the bearing in the washing machine Samsung with your own hands, read the article.
Disassembly of the tank
Since the columns have already been unscrewed earlier, only the clamps and brackets need to be removed. The following tools will help you. There are usually no special subtleties and difficulties with this work.
Remove the top of the tank housing so you can see the drum. Then remove the lower part. You should end up with:
While you’re at it, don’t just focus on the bearings. check everything you can access at the same time.
For example, you can check the inside of the tank for damage, or you can check the heating element for dirt and scale, short circuit and breakdown on the body (the last two checks are done with a tester). If you find problems with the heater, you can clean it of limescale or replace it completely with a similar one.
