Thermopotus device and repair: what consists of and how to repair thermopot
Progress does not stand still and more and more often for our convenience, electrical appliances are created that have convenient functions for use in everyday life or in industry. There are already so many new products that not everyone knows about them and understand why they need to be used. One of these relative innovations for use in everyday life is thermopot.
Thermopote is an electric household device that is used simultaneously as a kettle and a thermos. That is, the functions of thermopot are heating water and maintaining it in the right temperature range. The combination of these functions turned out to be so successful that thermopotes have now become very popular and occupied the proper place in our kitchen.
In appearance, thermopot is a capacity of up to 5 liters in a metal or plastic case. There are also thermopotes of a larger volume, but they are already used not for home use, but for restaurants and cafes. At the top of the structure there is a cover on which a convenient heating control panel is usually located. The water supply to thermopot is carried out using a special manual or electric pump.
The temperature supported by thermopot can be set in a certain range in accordance with temperature conditions on the control panel. Various models of thermopotes can have several such modes. Thermal, depending on the complexity of the structure, can simply heat the water to a boil, and then the water will slow down slowly, but there are also models that can constantly maintain water temperature at a certain level, using a special heating element for this.
Also, as in another smart household appliances, thermopotes can perform additional functions, such as water heating at a certain time along the timer or through a smartphone control, choosing a temperature with an accuracy of several degrees, self.cleaning and so on.
Ремонт термопота / repair of a thermopot
In order to maintain the temperature of the water well, insulation is provided in the design of the thermopot. However, unlike good thermos, in which the vacuum performs with isolation, there is usually an ordinary air gap in thermopotes. This means that still cooling water in a thermopot will be faster than in a thermos, but the water in it can be heated with built.in electric heaters.
The thermopot of even a small volume due to the thick layer of insulation has quite large sizes, so convenient pumps are used for the convenience of pouring water in thermopotes. These pumps can be both electric and mechanical.
Also in the design of the thermopot, there is usually a stepped or smooth thermoregulator, button or sensory control panels, etc.
Its device and principle of action
An electric pump is an electric motor and a pump itself mounted on its working shaft. a camera with a impeller, input and output pipes. When the engine is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate and distill the water from the inlet pipe leaving the flask, into the output pipe going to the nose. In some models, there is a filter in front of the pump, delaying mechanical inclusions, such as, for example, like a spool that got into a flask. Its condition must also be checked, rinsed or replaced if necessary.
Hand pump is a corrugated plastic cylinder. In the list of spare parts, it is listed as an “air pump”. This pump works only with a closed thermopot, when the flask is a sealed volume. When you press the large button on the lid, the cylinder compresses and pumps air into the upper part of the flask. Excessive pressure displaces a portion of water through nozzles into a nose. When releasing the manual supply button, the elasticity of the cylinder and the pressure in the flask is returned to the manual pump to its original position. The pump is ready for the next cycle.
Does not warm the water with a burning light bulb
Когда аппарат не греет воду при горящем индикаторе, то первое, что нужно сделать – это проверить Tubular Heater. But if the heater is working, then the reason may consist in an electrical circuit. That is, the thermopot does not warm the water, but the light is burning if the circuit after the indicator is a fuse that burned out. To eliminate the problem, a faulty part should be replaced.
The water supply button does not work
If the water supply button does not work, then there may be several reasons. First of all, this could happen due to blockage in the system. Particles of the scale most often protrude by garbage, which settled on the walls of tubes and hoses, gradually reducing their lumen. This ultimately leads to the fact that the pump does not pump water.
To eliminate the scale, you also need to use citric acid or vinegar, boiling water with them in the device. In the case of insoluble garbage, there is a complete disassembly of the pump and the entire water system. To do this, you need to disconnect all the hoses and blow them. The pump itself should be disassembled as follows:
Advice! If after cleaning everything does not pump the pump either, this may mean that the winding on the engine has burned out. And such breakdowns are better and more reliable in the service.
The fluid pouring button does not work in the case of poor contacts on the key itself or at the junction of the wires with the electric pump. To eliminate, it is necessary to check the entire scheme for cliffs. Upon failure of the second Tubular Heater, voltage ceases to be supplied to the electric pump motor.
May not work auto.zero when problems in the control module. In this case, you need to check the fee for cracks and burned parts, when detecting which you will have to work with a soldering iron.
Important! If the thermopot has only one electric pump, and the water supply does not work, then first of all you need to check the serviceability of the outlet and the presence of electricity in the house.
It is turned off before boiling
Usually this happens only in devices that have worked for more than one year. This is due to the loss of its properties by the bimetallic plate in the thermostat, which eventually begins to respond to a lower temperature than planned. To correct the situation, you can try to temporarily bend the contacts at the plate. And the best solution would be to replace the thermal switch.
The fact that the term is stopped boiling water, a banal scale may be to blame. Settling with a thick layer on Tubular Heater, it lowers its heat production. The heating element gradually begins to overheat. At a certain moment, the thermostat sees in this threat of fire and opens the electric circuit for moments before boiling water. You can get rid of the scale on Tubular Heater with a simple boiling of a citric acid solution. If this did not help, then you will have to disconnect the heater and clean it with a knife.
Important! Thermopote may not boil water also due to leakage in the flask. Even a few drops of liquid can cause overheating. The search for cracks is visually carried out, and it is more reliable to eliminate them in the workshop.
There may be bad contacts for the causes of breakdowns. In this case, you should check all connections with the wires of the heating element and thermal switch. If necessary, the contacts are reinforced.
Breakdown and repair of thermopot
As you can see, thermopotes are more difficult in design than the kettle and its repair is more complicated. Nevertheless, in most cases, its performance can be restored independently.
How to disassemble thermopot
Any repair begins with the fact that you need to get to the “filling”, which fails. First of all, remove the button on the top. It is attached on latches, so that some effort is required. But the latches made of thin plastic, so you need to be careful not to break.
How to disassemble thermopotus: first remove the button on the top
Next, we turn the terms and determine how the bottom is attached. In this case, the bottom is kept on screws hidden by the ring.
This ring holds on plastic latches. Put up with something flat (screwdriver) and remove. Screws are visible under the ring. We also unscrew them. Now you can remove the bottom. We push it and, squeezing the latches (also plastic), remove the plastic.
Electronics becomes available for repair
After removing the bottom of Potter, we get access to almost the entire electrical part of the device. To make it easier to work, you can remove the entire electric part from the body. To do this, unscrew two screws. They are clearly visible in the photo.
The last stage of disassembly
Before removing parts from the case, you still need to remove the wires from the contacts. Usually they are simply removed. In some cases, it is necessary to crush the lever. In general, you need to turn off three wiring. In the photo they are indicated by arrows. Now you can remove the case. We get complete and free access to all components.
Teapier Scheme. thermos.
The principal scheme of thermopot
In the continuation of the article on the repair of thermopot, we consider another scheme of the Elekta ClareSta EKT-2743 teapot.
The fundamental diagram of this teapot-termos in composition and purpose of electronic nodes does not differ from that model of thermopot, which was examined earlier.
The malfunctions of this thermopot and the causes of their occurrence are also similar.
The principal scheme of thermopot is reduced manually from the printed circuit board of the device, and, despite the re.check, there may be small flaws and errors.
The positional designations of radio components correspond to the numbering on the thermopot printed circuit board.
Elekta EKT-2743 thermopotist
The table contains parameters, labeling and nominal nominal for the elements depicted in the diagram.
|Diode||D2. D9, D11||1N4007|
|The capacitor is electrolytic||C2||470 μF. 35 volts.|
|The capacitor is electrolytic||C3||220 μF. 25 volts.|
|The capacitor is electrolytic||C5||470 μF. 25 volts.|
|The capacitor is electrolytic||C6||4.7 μF. 50 volts.|
|Capacitor||C1, C4||0.1 μF|
|Button||SW1, SW2, SW3||250 volts, 1 ampere|
|Light-emitting diode||LED1, LED2||for working voltage 3 volts|
|Relay||K1||JVC-7F, 12 VDC-1za, Coil-12 VDC|
|Resistor||R2||82 kom. ~ 0.5 watts|
|Resistor||R3||68 kom. ~ 0.5 watts|
|Resistor||R4||180 Ohm. ~ 2 watts|
|Resistor||R5||150 Ohm. ~ 2 watts|
|Resistor||R7||100 Ohm. ~ 1 watt|
|Resistor||R8||5.1 kOhm. ~ 0.25 watts|
|Resistor||R9||270 Ohm. ~ 2 watts|
|Resistor||R10||10 kom. ~ 0.125 watts|
|Resistor||R11||100 kom. ~ 0.125 watts|
|Resistor||R12||10 Ohm. ~ 0.125 watts|
|Electric motor||M1||DB. 2 (8. 12 V)|
|Thermal switch||S1||KSD302 or KSD201 (~ 1050C. 1250C; 10A 250V)|
|Thermal switch||S2||KSD302 or KSD201 (~ 930C. 1000C; 10A 250V)|
|Thermal subject||F1||TF 1570C 10A 250V (Sheng Ping)|
How to disassemble the device
Before trying to repair anything, you need to correctly disassemble the unit. This is necessary, firstly, to find and get to the malfunction. Secondly, to correctly assemble the device back. Otherwise, already repaired thermopot will simply not work.
Almost all models are arranged the same. Knowing the general principle, you can visually understand yourself. In order not to forget anything and not confuse when dismantling, we’ll make a step around the whole way:
Before proceeding to disassemble, turn off the thermos from the network, pour water out of it. Then turn up the bottom up and turn out all the screws.
Primary help: when thermopot does not boil water
Most importantly, check the settings on the control panel. Perhaps the boiling function is turned off, and the thermopot is turned on only in heating mode. Then it turns out that there is no malfunction, which means that the elimination of the broken part is not needed. The settings are in order, but the water does not boil. check the temperature sensor and heater. If the elements work poorly, then they must be replaced with new.
- Remove the upper element. cover. After remove the ring fixing the internal tank with the body.
- Remove all fastening elements. screws and bolts.
- Remove the bottom of the thermopot.
In order to disassemble thermopot, remove the upper element and the bottom of the device
The screwdriver will come in handy for all these manipulations. To get to the electronic filling of the device, you need to remove all the elements, and only then you can fix the device. Thermopot can perform many functions, for example, replace thermal circle. But, what is from this, if the water there is uncomfortable. neither the tea is brewed, nor coffee.
But, before making the disassembly of the device, you need to know exactly where what is attached and how many parts were before parsing.
Thermal switches owns the function of boiling. They are usually located at the bottom of the product or along the walls. In order for the thermal switch not to melt, it is treated with a special solution. To check the element to work, you need to pull it out and leave it on, fasten the wiring to it, and place them in water. With all this, you need to check the resistance. It should not be outside the water, if it has increased in the water, it means that the working part is not in it. If the opposite is true, then the thermal circuit circuit breaker is defective.
The main breakdown associated with the heater
Thermopotes have two frequently encountered types of breakdown:
In both cases, the heating element is to blame. The fact is that in thermopot it consists of two parts. The first is turned on when it is necessary to boil water, the second. to maintain a given temperature. Both parts are sealed in one building, so when one of them is released, you have to change the element entirely.
Replacing the heater thermopot
Ten for thermopotes has an unusual appearance. this is a metal ring made of metal strip several centimeters with three terminals in ceramic insulators (photo above). This type of heater is called tape heater. There are for different models, with different power. There are still different diameters. All data are indicated to the details.
What thermopotes are for. How they differ from dummies
The thermal is designed both for heating water (kettle) and to keep its temperature at a certain level for a long time (thermos). The process is continuous. To stop it, water is drained or the equipment is turned off from the mains.
Any technique has a certain resource. She needs periodic repairs, inspection or replacement. Thermopotes are no exception. But, if at a certain stage the device does not turn on or does not pump water, do not run to the service. Some breakdowns can be eliminated at home in a few minutes. DIY thermopot repair circuits should be in the manufacturer’s instructions.
how to repair an electric Thermo Pot with explaination!
To understand why the thermopot does not work in accordance with the rules, you need to know how it works. The main heater for a short time brings the water temperature to the boiling point and turns off. A special control module begins to function at the same time. He controls the current temperature. If it falls below the given limit, the process of repeated heating using the second heating. It is usually less power.
A significant difference from standard electric kettle. the presence of a pump. The volume of the thermopot tank reaches a dozen liters. For a rosllic of water, a manual (mechanical) pump or electric with the possibility of auto.butter of heated water is installed. This element of the heating device often fails.
Any thermopot or Potter is mandatory equipped with one or two thermostats and the fuse. The task of these elements is to prevent overheating of equipment and ignition. In order for the electric rumor and the control module to work correctly, the power supply is built with the possibility of transition from alternating voltage to constant. Almost all Potter manufacturers use one scheme in production. The difference is in details. For example, a button of the postponed launch is added. In the simplest models of the second heating, it may not be. The main thing in such a situation works almost continuously, the likelihood of failure is increased.
The principle of thermopot
To understand the causes of breakdowns and it is better to imagine how to repair a thermal, you should familiarize yourself with the principle of its work. First, the device boils water, like a regular kettle, and then the device control module comes into effect, which monitors the given minimum fluid temperature and, as soon as it drops below the norm, immediately turns on the repeated boiling. The thermopot uses the second heater to heated, which is always less powerful than the main one, since its functioning is very quick.
Due to the large dimensions and considerable weight of thermopot, a built-in pump is provided for boiling water into the cup. It can eat from electricity, like Marta products. Such a pump allows the possibility of configuring auto.zero through the control module. There is also a mechanical (manual) pump, like Magnit RTP-002, then the liquid is pumped into a mug manually through a special nose. Many models (for example: Vitek VT 1187 Gy, Saturn ST-EK8032, Mystery MTP-2403 and the Bravo TA-65 SK kettle) have both types of pumps.
In addition to the above details (control module, thermostat, two heating elements and pumps), the scheme without fail includes the thermostat (sometimes two, like the products of the company Maxwell and Scarlett) and thermal objector. Their main task is to prevent overheating and fire of the device. For the correct operation of the electric pump and control module, a power supply is provided with a lowering transformer.
Basically, all thermopots work according to one general scheme and vary only in the little things. For example, some models are equipped with a authorship timer. In budget options, there may be no low.power heater (as in products of Vitek and Magnit). But there are thermal pods (for example, the thermos Polaris PWP 4012D), which combine almost all the useful functions.