Causes of breakdown
An automatic washing machine works according to a simple algorithm. Pressing the “Start” button blocks the load door and starts the washing process.
If at the beginning of the washing machine does not get water, the program fails, it will be impossible to complete the washing.
Diagnose the washing machine and find the source of the problem. Some problems can be solved without the help of a plumber at home.
There are 8 most common reasons why the washing machine does not draw water:
- Problems with the water supply.
- Filling hose is clogged.
- Contamination of the filter.
- Flap lock not working properly.
- Water supply valve malfunction.
- Breakage of parts.
- Circuit board malfunction.
- The programmer is broken
Such a precautionary measure is taken by residents of apartment buildings when leaving for a weekend or on vacation. Water is shut off so as not to flood the neighbors from below, and when you return, you forget to open it.
Problems with the water supply
Water comes into the machine through the hose connected to the water pipe.
Not getting water into the washing machine if the supply is suspended by the utilities. If there is no water in the house, it, respectively, can not be in the machine.
When water starts flowing through the pipeline, the problem will disappear.
Reduced pressure level in the water system. another reason why the washing machine does not draw water, or the dialing process is very slow.
Open the water faucet and check the pressure. If the water is dripping or coming out in a trickle, call your building manager to find out. As soon as you get pressure, restart the wash.
Clogged fill hose
Pump has difficulty pumping water if hose connected to water mains is clogged, bent or crushed.
Inspect the inlet hose. If the fasteners are secure and tight, no leaks are detected, no heavy objects are standing on the hose look for a clog.
The standard size of an internal diameter of an inlet pipe is 14-16 mm. Hoses from 1 to 5 meters long are made of hard reinforced material. It is impossible to feel outside objects that got inside. You will have to disassemble.
Contamination of the filter
Tap water is not sterile and contains small particles. The presence of debris can put even the most expensive and functional washing machine out of commission.
To protect the washing machine from water impurities sand and rust, there is a built-in cleaning filter on the filling hose.
Over time, the strainer becomes clogged with foreign matter, making it difficult to supply water to the washer-dryer tank.
Remove intake hose to clean filter.
Door lock not working properly
The dispenser is designed in such a way that the following step-by-step program action will not start without completing the previous one. Water will not flow into the drum if the door does not fit tightly. Machine fails to draw water due to a malfunction of the shutter program.
The latching mechanism fails to operate due to three causes:
- contamination of the door latch or slot;
- Damage to the rubber seal or plastic locking mechanism;
- a malfunction in the washing machine software.
Dirt on the door latch occurs when washing detergent, stain remover, or rinse aid gets on the side of the door. A layer of plaque builds up and dries. Lock does not work.
The lock mechanism malfunctions due to wear and tear caused by excessive use. Replacement of worn out elements requires the participation of a locksmith of the service center or a private craftsman.
The error message on the electronic display indicates a software error or burned contacts. In such a case, do not repair it yourself to avoid making things worse.
Water supply valve malfunction
The inlet hose of the water intake is equipped not only with a filter. Water inlet valve controls the pressure of the fluid being pumped. The inlet mechanism acts as an automatic shutoff valve, controlled by an electric coil. The inlet valve opens when water is drawn in and closes automatically when the water level reaches the correct value.
Supply valve malfunction prevents water from flowing into the washer-dryer.
To check the valve, you need to remove the intake hose, filter and top cover of the washing machine.
Parts breakage
The most common problem associated with the water intake process is a broken pressostat. The round plastic sensor is responsible for the water level in the tank. There are wires connected to it with a loop and a pressure tube. Faulty part may erroneously signal to the command apparatus about the fullness of an empty drum.
To check the sensor functionality remove the top cover of the washer, disconnect the wires and the pressure socket.
Board failure
The machine can not fill because of the breakage of the electronic control board, which is located under the top cover.
The electronic system can fail the program in conditions of high humidity in the room where the machine stands.
A damaged power cord or plug can damage the circuit board. Unstable mains voltage can cause a short circuit. Capacitors on the board may burn out due to voltage fluctuations.
In this situation it is necessary to re-solder the tracks on the board and install new capacitors. In this case it is better to call a specialist.
Programmer breakage
Programmer is a rotary knob or knob on front panel. The mechanism allows you to switch the washing modes.
Gear and motor, gears and contacts are under the plastic housing. Wear of one or more elements will cause programmer malfunction. Difficulty of repair depends on the type of control lever.
In washing machines are installed levers of two types: mechanical and electronic.
The most simple model is considered a mechanical programmer. This lever rarely breaks, most often the cause is wear and tear. The service life of a mechanical programmer is about 10 years.
The electronic model is sensitive to surges in the network. Failure in the operation of the electronic control element may be caused by careless handling. Children play with the programmer of the washing machine in operation, they twist it, and disrupt the washing cycle and the set program.
Why water may not be drawn at all?
Washing machines Indesit, Samsung or LG can not only poorly, but do not get water for washing. What is the reason?
- Completely blocked the valve that feeds water into the drum.
- No water.
- Door not properly closed, defective lock.
- The pressostat is broken.
- The valve that supplies liquid to the washing machine is broken.
- Improper connection of the device.
- Improper operation.
Pressostat or drain valve defective
Determining that the cause of the malfunction is a short circuit of the pressostat is somewhat more difficult. The water pressure gauge detects the amount of water in the drum; it gives the inlet valve the command to fill. In this case, the state of filling of the drum it determines by the pressure of the water column. Scale, sediment on the walls and small debris can cause the pressostat to malfunction. If the machine stops working properly, it must be repaired urgently.
There are several indications that the water level sensor is broken. For example, at this:
- Water is continuously pumped into the drum;
- The volume of liquid is too large or small;
- the machine does not spin the laundry as it should according to the program;
- Water does not fully drain from the drum.
It happens that the washing machine gives an error before it has even started. If this is the case, check to see if the tube is clogged. The pressostat itself can only have 3 positions: empty, full tank and overflow. If it is malfunctioning, the “overflow” error is displayed immediately upon engaging the washing mode. In this case, the upper part of the terminal immediately closes and the drain starts.
What to do if your washer won’t drain (Bosch Axxis models only)
This problem can only be solved by replacing the pressostat. For this it is necessary to have the appropriate skills. However, it is important to note that the pressostat is not a universal part, each manufacturer of household appliances has its own. You need to buy sensors for a specific model of a specific company, which should be specified in specialized stores.
If your machine is constantly pumping water into the tank, it could be a faulty drain valve. In this case the problem is solved by replacing the valve.
Before proceeding to work, disconnect the appliance from the electric mains. With devices with vertical laundry loading valve is located at the bottom, so you must remove the side panel.
Analogues with a horizontal loading have to remove the top cover, since the valve is located under it. The valve should be replaced with an identical part, selecting at the same time the clamps that will be useful for fixing the wires and hoses. The replacement is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- Disconnect hoses and wires from the valve;
- unscrew the self-tapping screws or unbend the latches (depending on how the valve is mounted);
- The part should be rotated and removed;
- A new valve is installed in its place, and then it is secured;
- Then connect the wires and hoses, fix them with clamps;
- the removed panel is returned back to its place.
Sometimes the problem with a machine that does not let water in is due to rubber gaskets or poor contact sensor. The machine may draw and empty water all the time, even at the beginning of the wash. It is necessary to test the sensor with a multimeter: if everything is all right, it is worth checking the pressostat.
How to determine that the machine can not fill the water
When the laundry is dry in the drum, the SM buzzes and does not rotate the drum, the malfunction is clearly visible. But there are situations when the drum has water, but the washing does not start and it is not clear what happened. It may be that the water comes too slowly and the machine identifies this as a failure. In such a case, the display shows the error code. Washing machines without a display indicate breakdown by means of blinking indicators.
Electrolux machine code E10 is reporting that there is no water in the tank
For example, if an Indesit washing machine fails to draw water, its display shows the combination H20. The same code is displayed in Ariston and Hotpoint Ariston washing machines. Electrolux and Zanussi models report E10 or E11. The following information appears on the displays of other brands of washing machines:
- Samsung. E1;
- LG. PE or IE;
- Bosch. F01 or Aquastop;
- Whirpool. FH or F1;
- Candy. E02;
- Asko. E01 or Water inlet fault.
If there is no display, the problem can be identified by a combination of blinking lights (for each brand of SM it is different, you can find it in the instruction manual).
Causes not related to malfunctions
If you discover that your washer has no water inlet during operation, do not immediately panic and calculate how much you have to spend for repairs. Often this problem is due to causes that are in no way related to the defects of certain parts of the device. Let us understand them in details.
Lack of water in the plumbing
If your washing machine signals that there is a lack of liquid, it is first recommended to check the presence of pressure in the water system. If the root cause is the lack of liquid in the water system, then you will have nothing to do but to postpone the washing for another time. If there is too little water pressure, the washing machine can proceed with the intended program, but it will take a very long time to fill the tank. In this case, the technique will constantly fail at the stage of collecting liquid.
In this situation, it is recommended to suspend the washing and postpone it until there is a full flow from the faucet.
The tap on the pipe is closed
We must consider the fact that even if there is water in the faucet, it may well be a screwed valve transferring it to the machine. Usually this valve is installed on the pipe itself, which follows to the machine. If the problem is the lack of water in the water supply due to a blocked faucet, then you need a basic and straightforward steps. If the element in question is closed, it must be opened.
The hose is crushed
In many situations, deficiencies that are associated with the intake of water, due to the crushed and clogged filling hose. It consists of a long tube of flexible structure, fitted with fittings and nuts. The first end of such a tube is connected to the machine itself, and the second end is sent to the water supply system. Typically, the hose for household appliances is made of durable and popular material. polyvinyl chloride. It is reinforced with special fibers of synthetic matter or strong steel wire. These details help the tube to hold back the strong water pressure.
Regardless of its reliability, such elements over time can wear out and require mandatory replacement.
The cause is not always a worn-out hose that has to be replaced. It is not uncommon for this part to be severely clogged. As a result, the already small gap is blocked, not giving the machine access to the water flow. To find out if this is the case, you will need to unscrew the hose from the machine as carefully as possible, examine the filter part and the inlet pipe. The cleaning procedure for a choked and clogged hose is as follows.
- necessarily turn off the water supply to the machine, if there is a special faucet, or it will have to be done for the entire system; the unit will need to de-energize. do not forget about it in any case;
- Removing the filler hose. it will be necessary to rinse it thoroughly under cold water (good pressure will be needed); it will be necessary to inspect the part for kinks and any other possible damage;
- in the place where the tube is attached to the washing machine, you will notice the grid, which consists of small cells. it is a filter element; it will need to be pulled out with maximum precision using pliers, then the removed part should be carefully cleaned, using a small brush; Finally the grid is rinsed under water;
- To determine how the filter works, put the strainer back on the inlet hose, place it directly over the tub and open the liquid supply; if you see that the water flow is strong, this will mean that all the work has been done correctly and everything is in order;
- At the same time, carefully examine the socket that connects the hose to the water system; maybe it also needs to be cleaned so that the machine can continue to operate normally and fully.
Then all the components are assembled in reverse order. Then the machine can be plugged in and a test wash can be performed.
The reason why the machine pours and drains water at the same time is the wrong location of the hose, its rupture or too low position. In this case, the error code is displayed: LE, LC, E9, or LE1.
These codes are decoded as “self-draining”, “leakage”. If the machine is not equipped with a display, all the washing indicators light up in red, except for the cold mode. In “Samsung” devices, equipped with an aquastop, a special “float” in the pan reacts to a leak, which immediately gives a signal to stop the work.
The hose connection to the sewer may not be secure enough, especially if it has been unscrewed recently. The gasket is probably worn out and needs to be replaced.
If such a problem occurs, it is necessary to inspect the floor for puddles, as well as the hose itself and the place of its attachment to the drain point.
Errors also occur when there is too much foam in the drum. The reasons are as follows:
The pressostat responds by displaying an error code.
The washing machine draws water, but does not wash: causes and ways to fix the problem
automatic washing machine (Cwm) can draw water, but it does not start washing or washes poorly. This failure depends on the characteristics of the model: the most modern do not wait until the water is heated to the desired temperature, and the tank is filled to the upper limit, and begin washing immediately. If this does not happen, it is necessary to understand the causes of such a breakdown.
Error in the program module
Another reason why the water may not flow into the washing machine is a failure in its “brains. If your washing machine has a lot of different electronic advantages Get ready for the fact that after a while this advantage may become a disadvantage.
Very often such failures can occur after a couple of years of using the washing machine, and most often they are caused by improper use of the equipment.
As to repair the same control module by yourself will not work and the help of a specialist will have to be enlisted.
Breakage of separate parts
If the visual inspection and cleaning of impurities did not give a positive result, most likely the machine signals a breakdown of certain parts responsible for taking the water to the right level.
In most cases, you can get by with their cleaning or restoration, but sometimes you need to replace faulty elements.
Water valve failure
From the water supply to the tank of the washing machine water comes at high pressure, and regulates this pressure inlet (filler) valve. It works like this: a current is applied to the coil, creating an electromagnetic field, under the influence of which the gate opens and gives access to the flow from the water supply system.
When the tank is full, the control module sends a signal to cut off the power to the valve winding and the gate is lowered to block the water.
To inspect the valve, it must first be dismantled. To do this, de-energize the appliance, remove the inlet hose and the grid, and wash the filter at the same time.
Then open the lid of the machine, disconnect from the part of the wiring, pipes and, depending on the type of fasteners, unbend the latches or unscrew the bolts. It remains to turn the valve and pull it out of the machine body.
Detailed information on disassembly of washing machines of different models is presented in this article.
Now you can check the performance of the element. First connect the fill hose to the valve, supply water and inspect for leaks. an intact shutter will not leak. Then use a multimeter to measure the resistance on each coil. The normal value is 2-4 kOhm.
You can also verify the correct operation of the gate by applying voltage of 220V alternately to each section: the valve must open and de-energized closed.
Of course, you can try to give a “second life” to the part by replacing the burned out winding, but there is no guarantee of success of such a repair. Therefore, it is much easier to buy a new valve, because it costs inexpensive, and it is easy to change. just assemble the design in the reverse order.
But if the electronics are working properly, perhaps the valve is clogged or a foreign object has penetrated there and is interfering with normal operation. In this case, you can disassemble and clean it.
Pressostat breakdown and replacement instructions
Pressostat controls the filling of the machine tank. It is a small round-shaped plastic element, made of plastic, to which is connected a loop of wires and a pipe leading from the high-pressure tank.
It works like this: when you fill the tank, the pressure corresponding to the desired water level for each mode is delivered through a tube, depending on which the relay opens / closes contacts.
If the pressostat is broken, the machine can simply not draw water, refusing to work on the wash and rinse program, or, conversely, continually drain it without keeping it in the tank.
To check the efficiency of the pressostat, unscrew the fixing bolts, disconnect the wires and the hose. It is held in place by a clamp, which should either be squeezed with pliers or simply unscrewed.
Then inspect the device itself and its tube for mechanical damage and clogs. If the hose is clogged, it should be removed and washed, and the dirty contacts of the pressostat should be cleaned.
If no blockages found, you can check the pressostat with a small piece (10-15 cm will be quite enough) of a hose with the same diameter as the tube removed from the sensor.
For this purpose connect one end of the new hose to the sensor input and blow or immerse into a container with water the second input. you will hear a click at the serviceable element.
You can also use a multimeter to test. the conductivity values should change when the pressure increases.
If the pressostat is out of order, you need to buy a new device suitable for your washing machine model. Look at the marking on the part itself to see if there is a blockage. Then connect the tube, plug in the contacts and fix the sensor with screws, i.e. reassemble and check the operation of the machine.
Faulty circuit board or broken programmer
If the control unit malfunctions, the machine simply does not receive an “order” to draw water. The simplest way to eliminate the failure of electronics is to de-energize the appliance for 10-20 minutes, then plug it in and try to restart the desired program.
It is possible that the controller will reboot and the machine will start. But note that such a failure is the first bell, indicating the forthcoming repair of the washing machine in the future.
often than not, washing machine electronics malfunction for these reasons:
- Increased humidity in the room where the unit is installed will cause the contacts to dry out and come loose. You can try to remove and dry the board (even blow it out with a hair dryer at low speed) and subsequently make sure that the humidity level does not exceed 70%.
- Water ingress in the control unit. Here much depends on the brand and manufacturer of the machine. In some models, such as Samsung and LG, the “brain” of the device is completely sealed and protected from such troubles, and in the same Indesit or Ariston, the board can get wet during washing or when carrying the device.
- Mains voltage fluctuations or low voltage. It is necessary to provide a dedicated outlet for the washing machine, and connection through a stabilizer will help to level out the differences.
- A kinked power cord, an old outlet, or a plug with faulty contacts. all of these things need to be corrected and, if necessary, worn parts replaced.
If there is a suspicion of failure of the main chip, you need to ring the multimeter all elements that are responsible for managing the water intake.
The most common problem is a breakdown of the triac control of the priming valve. the element, on the signal of which the machine begins to draw water. But also burned tracks, soldering, diodes, relays or resistors in the valve control circuit can fail.
You can visually identify the malfunction by the following signs:
- On the chip there are areas of discoloration, darkened tracks, sooting or papals.
- There is a burned out lacquer coating on the damping coils.
- The “legs” of the chip are darkened or the discoloration of the processor is visible.
- “Capacitor caps are bulging or torn at the crosshair.
If you have experience working with chips, you can try to clean the “suspicious” connections with contact cleaning fluid.
If it is just fouling or contamination from soap solution, pin conductivity should be restored.
But if that didn’t help, you should replace the elements that didn’t pass the multimeter test, re-solder the burned out tracks and solderings and reflash the board if necessary.
Self-repair of electronics is worthwhile if the warranty period has already expired and you are confident in your skills with the soldering iron and multimeter.
But if you are not experienced in such “reanimation”, you can completely replace the board with an identical one or ask a service center for help.
