The stove in the sauna is under the floor

Chimney

It is important to know how to arrange for flue gas discharge. Proceed as follows:

• Mark the location of the passage node on the ceiling.
• Saw the slab, treat it with fire retardant impregnation, insert the partition (box with outlets) and fix it in the corners with screws, lay basalt insulation of 7.5 mm thickness.
• On the sauna stove, first install a single-wall module, at least one meter, or a tube heat exchanger. Next, the adapter from single to double-walled pipe, then it is recommended to use a sandwich construction.
• Connect the free end to the adapter, to which on the other side connect the first section of the chimney, followed by the second and so on. Secure the joints with metal clamps.
• Protect the lead outlet with a steel sheet (from the attic side), which you fix to the wooden ceiling with self-tapping screws.
• Cut a hole in the roof and lead out the pipe, using a section with an aluminum element.
• Make sure that the chimney rises above the roof level by 0.5-1.5 m, and install the cap.

If you have purchased a prefabricated unit, you must follow the instructions. At feflues.You can find quality factory-made FPU. Available in different configurations: “empty” or with additional insulation. In the first case, you need to base the node (sheet of stainless steel) from the inside to cover with basalt cardboard, the FPU itself is installed in a box, protected by sheets of mineralite. The distance between the pipe and the tin is left empty. But the knot itself from the attic side should be filled with kaolin wool at 5-7 cm, no more is necessary to avoid overheating the pipe.

A few important points

Before starting to analyze the methods of insulation, it is worth paying your attention to some details. It is very important to consider the structural features of the room, because for concrete and wood floors are suitable different methods of insulation. What is good for concrete, it may be completely unacceptable for wood. Different techniques must also be used for leaking and dry pavements.

If you already have a functioning steam room, in which you want to carry out work, the steps will be the same, but the cost of dismantling and reconstruction will be somewhat higher than when building from scratch.

Fire safety when installing a sauna stove

Rules of fire safety when installing an iron stove in the bath stipulate requirements related to the mandatory observance of fire breaks and measures aimed at preventing accidents.

The casing and chimney, during firing, become very hot. Over time, wood under constant thermal stress will oxidize, which causes ignition, even without the presence of an open flame. For this reason, the fire safety requirements for installing a stove in a bathhouse require three important rules to be followed:

Provide safe distances between the furnace body and walls made of combustible materials.

There are general rules that must be observed during installation:

It is recommended that the finish of the walls around the stove be made of non-combustible materials. If there is no such a possibility, surfaces made of logs or beams should be covered with thermal insulation and steel sheeting.

Distance from the stove to the bath wall

The PPB specifies the fire safety distances. gaps that prevent possible ignition. The standards state:

Leave a gap of 110-125 cm between the stove body and the wall made of combustible material. After thermal insulation, the distance is reduced to 50-80 cm.

Fire codes specify the minimum distance to combustible objects from the body of the stove. All other objects: shelves, wooden partitions and walls, remove at least 110 cm.

How to install the stove on a wooden floor in the bathhouse

The sauna stove must be installed at a level as close to or 10-15 cm below the foundation as possible. This rule is easier to comply with if the foundation and the place for installation were prepared in advance.

In the case of concrete floors tiled with ceramic tiles, the stove is installed without the need for additional protection of the base. Wooden floors will need to be protected from fire:

Pillow. an even layer of clay mortar is applied to the wooden boards. A row of ceramic bricks is laid along it. Such a pad is heat-resistant and provides the necessary protection for the wood. Lack of solutions, elevation of the furnace above the floor level by 10-15 cm.

Metal stoves weigh up to 80 kg. Rules of installation of a metal sauna stove on a wooden floor in the bath do not indicate the need for a full-fledged foundation for installation. The rules are aimed at protecting wooden floors from fire.

What to insulate walls around the stove

Thermal insulation of the furnace from the wooden wall, mandatory standard. The surface of combustible materials is protected in several ways:

After installing the heater and protecting the walls, proceed to the installation of the chimney.

A sauna stove with proper convection

The efficiency of a steam room is determined by the quality of the steam, which must be of high temperature and made up of the tiniest drops of water. This kind of steam is called light steam. It is after heating your head does not hurt, and you feel light in the body. All of this depends a great deal on the right stove.

There are bath stoves with an open heater and a closed heater. Both have convectors. shrouds that are attached to the furnace. Cold air is sucked in under the hood and the heated air comes out on the other side.

There are open and closed heater stoves that create a special microclimate in the sauna. Here the stones are in a separate block that is built into the inside of the oven. Such designs are arranged so that convection in the steam room is constant. If it is not covered, the temperature in the sauna will constantly rise and the humidity will constantly drop. That is why manufacturers offer a double hood. It serves as a limiter of heat flow and does not overheat the air.

It is important to get a good steam at a low temperature. It is difficult to achieve this effect in an open heater. Stoves with poor or deteriorating over time convection can not heat the bath at all. Choosing a stove, you should pay attention to the fact that the convection part is regulated.

Dimensions

The length and width of the foundation must be at least 5-10% greater than the furnace itself, with an indentation of 50-200 mm around the edges on all sides of the structure. Overhanging or placing it “against the wall” is considered a serious violation.

The depth of the foundation of the furnace, as a rule, coincides with the main (0.5-0.7 m on stable soils for MHF, from 1.5 m. when laid below the frost level).

When calculating the depth of the trench in advance, consider the need for a cushion or the planned level of the furnace.

The design can be installed flush or above the floor in the room, but most owners recommend placing the stove slightly below, in order to warm the basement and improve the draft.

Reference. Separate requirements are placed on the bases for heating structures with massive chimneys. The last must be placed in the center of the landing or as close to it as possible, rigid attachment to the roof is not recommended.

In the absence of such a possibility of choice of parameters of the basis for the furnace trust professionals, errors in the distribution of loads are not allowed.

Why is it cold in the bath?

The cold in the bath is a necessary and useful thing, if it is certainly in the form of a bucket of ice water or a bucket of snow, in any other case it is the real trouble. over it should be noted that this trouble is not the most rare which we have to deal with fans of brooms and steam.

Not a high temperature in the steam room is common, many of us in general are supporters of warm baths, but, as they say, everything must be in moderation. When after the tossing of water the steam does not smell, or it instantly flies away, or the feet are freezing on the floor, it is not the case.

Let’s try to understand the reasons of this phenomenon and whether it is possible to do something.

The matter is in the stove

I think that you need to start with her, because it is the original source of heat. The type, design and location of the stove certainly play an important role in this.

The problems with good heating in factory-made sauna stoves are usually not observed, but the same can’t be said about self-made ones. A wrongly made such stove can bring problems instead of economy. The lack of ash drawer, deflector, poorly designed furnace or chimney leads to the fact that the water and stones just do not reach the desired temperature.

I have visited a sauna with such a stove, and while it is heating it seems to be ok, but as soon as the wood burns through, it gets cooler. Therefore it is very important to use the heat coming from firewood properly: The fire must not just go down the chimney, it has to heat the water tank and the stone compartment.

In general, if such a furnace does not do its job, the following advice can be given:

water tank should be placed on top of the furnace, not on the side, the heating stones should be direct, the bowl with the stones should be fully or partially closed, the chimney should have a damper on the chimney pipe.

The factory sauna heaters usually have no problems with this, but there is another problem they do not keep heat. Why is this point so important, but all is simple fast heating is not enough, you need to keep the heat for a long period, otherwise it will be a sauna for one.

This is achieved by increasing the amount of material capable of accumulating heat and releasing it gradually, rather than instantly as in the case of metal. In expensive models this function is performed by stone convector shells, for low-end products the solution is partial lining with bricks, hanging on the chimney water tank samovar type or a grid with stones, moving the chimney from the center to the side or to the back wall (if the design provides for this).

Increasing the weight of the stones in the sauna heater will not yield the desired result as their upper layer simply will not be able to heat up to the desired temperature

It is not superfluous to read the instructions, although many people do not like to do this. For example, some manufacturers state that the maximum temperature is reached by fully filling the firebox with wood and opening the ash drawer at full extent. In general, consider the features of your sauna heater and learn how to use it correctly.

Do not forget about the productivity of the furnace, because each model is designed for heating a certain volume of bath / steam room. When buying or making a heater, you should always estimate whether it can provide the desired temperature regime.

As for those made of brick, then the situation is such a good heaters are quickly heated and retain heat for a very long time. But such creations are expensive, because not every stove builder can competently, and he will take not a little for his work. When I asked one of my fellow craftsmen how much a small, but good-quality stove would cost me, he answered about 200 thousand rubles. How about this figure??

That is why, many people who do not recognize the modern burzhuyka, try to lay out a stove themselves and the result is necessary not for everyone. Mistakes are often made in masonry by one’s own efforts. Improperly executed flue, furnace lining or wrong cross-section of the well guarantee weak or excessively long heating. In this case you can suggest to make a combination stove like this one.

Poor ventilation

Let’s assume that you are fully confident in the efficiency of your furnace, but it is cold in the bath! In this case we have to pay attention to ventilation. In the old days, when nobody knew what insulation, double-glazed windows or self-level floors meant, no one thought about ventilation, the air would seep in by itself and also leave by itself through the covering of the ceiling. And the space of a rustic bathhouse was not divided into two or more rooms. Now everything is different, which requires a modern approach.

Separation of zones with careful insulation of each of them is simply not possible without properly arranged ventilation, otherwise the air will simply stand cold below and hot above. Our task is to make it circulate, thereby distributing heat to where we need it.

This is usually done like this: in the partition between the steam room and washing room there is a small window that connects the two closed rooms. In the washing room, usually near the furnace, make a ventilation hole, which channel or corrugated tube through the floor into the steam room. So this system works like this: heated air from the stones goes into the room, and it is replaced by cold air from the lower opening in the steam room.

We close the upper window in the washing room or we go for a steam bath.

This system can be modified and linked with the leaking floor, but about this below.

Attention to the foundation and the floor

Often the reason for the coolness in the bath is a cold floor, and the roots of this problem go back to the very beginning of the construction, and for rustic and modern structures they are different.

Rural bathhouses are characterized by a strip foundation, an earthen basement and a leaking wooden floor. This is our starting point in solving this problem.

In itself, the space under the boards does not freeze, even in severe frosts (for chopped baths), so in order to keep the feet from freezing do the following:

• We increase a little bit the space between the floor and the ground. This can be done in two ways. by making the foundation higher or by removing the ground layer.
• Put some sand or claydite around the perimeter of the concrete / brick slab on the inside.
• On all sides on the outside put a balk.
• Do not lay the floor boards close to the log and to each other, also leave a gap near the furnace.
• Make the floor a little higher than the base of the sauna heater.

Modern frame buildings, as well as those made of bricks or blocks all this may not help, especially since in most of them you will not find a simple drain to the ground. They are arranged in concrete bowls with a system of collection and drainage of water outside. over, many have begun to do so not only in the washing room, but throughout the entire contour of the bath.

In such buildings the temperature underneath the floor is often the same as outside, i.e.е. at.20 grams in winter, after a week of your absence, you will have almost the same temperature under the floor. So you heat up the oven and in an hour and a half it is hot, but it is still cold underneath.

Foundation from the inside is better not to insulate any kind of materials based on foam plastic, it threatens the appearance of the strip surface condensate. It will be very effective to include the floor in the ventilation system, about which we have already written above. In the washing room we do the floor leaking (in this case, a special hole is not needed) and partially the same in the steam room. Heated air passes through a window in the washing room, heats the room, cools it down and through the cracks in the floor is drawn back into the steam room. By circulating in this way the air warms the floor and under floor space much more quickly.

Those who have poured a monolithic screed can be advised only to install water or electric floor, the inclusion of layers of insulation in the foundation will not produce the desired effect.

Insulated

As they say no matter how much you heat the street will not get warmer, so let’s pay attention to the situation with insulation.

Baths made of stone, frame, panelboard and bar are in need of insulation from the inside and outside.

Inside this process is done long ago by tried and tested technology (there are a lot of illustrative videos on YouTube): frame, vapor barrier, mineral insulator, foil, linings, so we will not focus on this.

It is desirable for greater reliability to conduct appropriate work on the outside walls of the bath consists in laying the wind barrier and the fastening of the protective material from rainfall.

The points of heat escape in log houses are: doors, windows, wainscoting grooves and ceiling. Unlike the above-mentioned buildings, in the saunas made of round timber there is no need to make the walls fully insulated. They already perfectly retain heat, and it makes no sense to cover such beauty, it will be enough to finish with euro linings only the steam room.

Work on insulation in such a bath is as follows:

caulking inside and outside, insulation of doors and windows, insulation of the ceiling.

If the walls do not need to be covered, then the ceiling is necessary. This can be done only from the inside, only from the outside or both.

On the interior side it will be enough to secure the ceiling with aluminum foil or Kraft paper, over which with a small air gap fasten the batten. On the side of the attic space can lay insulation or make the backfill.

Here are basically all the main points to improve your bathhouse. Of course it must be admitted that some of them simply will not suit you, others will be difficult to implement, others are not effective, but this is how it should be for each building its own approach, its own characteristics.

The most serious mistakes when choosing and installing a stove in the sauna

Most of the lucky ones who received the opportunity to build their own residence outside the city, even if it is a country house, nurture in their mind and the construction of the bath-house. Indeed, the absence of this, without much exaggeration, both “health” and “cultural” object is perceived by many as an unfinished site. So sooner or later, but its construction gets on the “agenda”.

The most popular mistakes when choosing and installing a stove in the bath

Today we will not touch upon the construction directly. let’s talk about something else. Bath is impossible without the sauna stove. heater, and this problem today is mainly solved by buying a ready-made model. Fortunately, the modern choice amazes with its variety. But when choosing a stove and then installing it, some inexperienced owners make a number of mistakes. Half the trouble if these flaws only negatively affect the comfort of bathing procedures. Much worse, if the health or even life of people, the integrity of the entire structure is endangered.

So let’s deal with the question. the most popular mistakes when choosing and installing a stove in the sauna.

What are the most common mistakes made by inexperienced sauna owners??

The phrase “popular mistakes” in the title probably does not sound quite right, introducing some “major note”. Although there is nothing to cheer about. Rather, we talk about the most common, common mistakes. that’s more accurate.

All these mistakes can be divided into several groups:

• Improper selection of the furnace according to its thermal and technical characteristics.
• Unconsidered beforehand nuances of preparing the place for installing the stove.
• Violations of fire safety requirements during installation.
• Errors in the installation of the chimney.
• Unnecessary amateurism when trying to save money or improve the stove.

Of course, each of these categories deserves a detailed discussion on the scale of a separate article. But we will try at least briefly to describe the essence of the problems, so those who are just about to such trouble, know what to focus on.

The parameters of the stove do not match the real features of the steam room

Quite often there is a “mistake”. bought and properly installed sauna stove obviously cannot do the job. It can heat for several hours but the temperature in a steam room hardly reaches 60 ÷ 70 ℃ and after that. to no avail. Of course you can’t take full bathing procedures with such a stove in operation.

Otherwise you have to heat it for hours, but you don’t get the desired heat in the steam room. Most likely, the reason lies in the wrong choice.

And meanwhile, the owner assures that he chose the device in strict accordance with the geometry of the steam room. That is the volume of the room corresponds to the manufacturer’s stated range of the furnace. As you know, in the certificates of sauna stoves it is usual to indicate two values for the range of volumes of the steam room, for example. from 9 to 14 m³. and you should probably aim for about the middle of this range.

Yes, that’s right. But all the same. the stove stubbornly does not warm up the steam room to the full. So the bathhouse owners start reproaching the manufacturer saying that it’s cheating, whitewashing etc.п.

Editor in Chief of the Stroyday Project.ru. Engineer.

And meanwhile. this is not the reason! And in the fact that the furnace was chosen, it would seem, correctly, but solely for the volume of the steam room, without any consideration of the other features of this room.

Those volumes that are listed in the certificate of the stove can be roughly considered the reference ones. That is, for example, the furnace is ready to serve the steam room volume of 9 ÷ 14 m ³, provided that this room is almost perfect insulation and there is no excessive heat consumption or leakage paths.

In reality, this is probably the case only in “good boy books”. There is almost always something in the steam room that draws a certain amount of the generated heat energy, i.e. does not let it be used for its direct “bath purpose”. to heat the heater and the air in the steam room. What it might be?. please:

• For reasons of “ecological cleanliness”, log or timber baths often do not have any additional insulation on the inside. Can you imagine how much energy it takes to heat solid wood walls that are 200-300 mm thick, especially if it is freezing outside?!

No one forbids this approach, please! But then some adjustment must be made to the power of the stove!

• There is a difference. the whole stove is located in the steam room or the furnace part is moved into the anteroom. No matter how you look at it, it becomes a way of leaking a certain amount of heat. Spending seems to be useful. the heat warms the anteroom, but the steam room from this is not easier.

• Let’s look at the door leading from the anteroom (or the washing room) to the steam room. Ideally it should be impermeable to heat, i.e. thermally insulated and very precisely fitted. In reality it is most often a board panel, but recently glass door panels have become more and more common. Naturally, the insulation qualities are no longer the same, and a correction in the capacity of the stove is in order.

• In the steam room there may be a window that looks outside. On its type and size also depend on the amount of heat loss.
• Very often in the steam room there are areas of floor and/or walls, lined with bricks, stone, ceramic tiles. All of these areas require a higher amount of heat for heating, because they have a considerable thermal capacity. So it is also desirable to take them into consideration when choosing a sauna stove, making allowance for their presence and size.

Stroyday Project Editor in Chief.ru. Engineer.

There is a special algorithm that makes a very original correction. Specifically. it recalculates the real geometric volume of the steam room into a “virtual” one, but taking into account the factors that require increasing the power of the furnace, which was mentioned above. For example, a really big room of 12 cubic meters can be evaluated as much as 15 cubic meters after recalculation.

So there you have it. for a “pure” 12 m³ the owners would probably choose a stove with a working range of 9 ÷ 14 m³, because it turns out about in the middle. And you would be wrong! Your “virtual volume” is 15 cubic meters, which means that you’d better choose an appliance with a range of about 12 ÷ 18 cubic meters!

Is it possible to make this calculation yourself? With our calculator, yes, of course. And it will not take you much time.

Calculator for calculating the required sauna stove features

Watt or kilowatt figures in the appendix of the sauna heater give very unclear information. It is better to use a “virtual” or stated volume of the steam room.

The resulting steam room volume should be roughly in the middle of the range stated by the stove manufacturer. Then you can be confident in the efficiency of the unit.

By the way, does not give any positive results and deliberately increase the power of the sauna stove, out of concern “the more the better”. This is the extra costs when purchasing the model, the excessively large size and weight of the device, and increased “voraciousness” in terms of consumption of wood or other energy carrier. And meanwhile there are almost no preferences at the output, because it will be very difficult to adjust a stove with high power characteristics to create a really comfortable bath atmosphere. Everything must be in moderation!

The space for installing the stove is not suitable for the appliance

You can meet all kinds of cases when the owners suddenly discover that the purchased and delivered stove can not be installed where it was planned. Or the installation requires additional construction operations.

• Sometimes it is ridiculous when a very favorite stove is delivered and it simply does not fit in the “corner”, taking into account the required indents. And the hopes that we have in the store, like “we can somehow squeeze it in” can’t be justified. Have to change something in the layout, and this is always associated with a lot of additional costs.
• About the same “story”. the distance from the top edge of the furnace to the wooden ceiling is less than the 1200 mm put on the SNIP (800 mm, if the ceiling over the stove shielded sheet metal). About this, of course, you should think in advance.
• It happens that you forget to assess and compare the load capacity of the wooden floor in the steam room with the weight of the stove itself. And when installing the boards start to sag dangerously. And you will also need to lay a stone tab, often. to hang a water tank.

Well, if the owner plans to lay a brick screen around the perimeter of the device. you can hardly rely on the strength of wooden decking. Probably be correct to prepare in advance for the site for the installation of the furnace separate foundation.

A separate foundation for the sauna stove is a great solution to the issue. But it is necessary to provide for it in advance!

In any case. it does not hurt to make preliminary calculations to assess the possibility of installing the stove directly on the wooden floor. By the way, we can help with these calculations!

Can the wooden floor withstand a metal stove, and with a brick screen as well??

In advance. you can not tell, because very much depends on the parameters of the device, and on what kind of lumber is mounted floor. But it can be calculated. in this will help you calculate the load on the floor of the sauna stove published on our portal

• It never hurts to check in advance the future location of the furnace on several other points. In particular. if a remote furnace is planned, would it be necessary to break through the load-bearing wall (undesirable!) And whether in this particular place can be made to replace, for example, a wooden partition with a brick one.
• It is necessary to assess in advance where the chimney of the furnace will pass, whether it will fall on the floor beam and, further on, on the rafters. Of course, the obstacles can be bypassed by using bends to create short horizontal or sloping sections, but it is still better not to go to this.

Do not forget that the passage through the ceiling and roof must be mounted fire-prevention partition. That is, you need to provide space (distance from beams and other wooden parts) and under its size.

Failure to comply with fire safety rules when installing the stove

Unfortunately, such mistakes continue to be made, and they are, by the way, most often the cause of accidents, sometimes, alas, with tragic results. There are strict rules that simply must be followed, no matter how much it complicates the task of installing the furnace.

Editor in Chief of the project Stroyday.ru. Engineer.

Perhaps some slovenliness in this matter exists because the rules are based on several GOSTs and SNIP (sometimes with slight contradictions to each other). In addition, add “anarchy” also instructions to some imported furnaces, in which manufacturers feel entitled to indicate a slightly different, less stringent standards for the size of the distance of the furnace and chimney to the walls, floors, ceilings. And this right is even enshrined in SNiP 2.04.05-91 and SNiP 41-01-2003, which states that the obligation to indicate the value of the indentation rests with the manufacturers of metal stoves.

Experts still recommend keeping to the rules established in SNiP, even if they are invalid already, but were created as they say “by blood”, i.e. based on the comprehensive analysis of statistics of accidents with heating equipment, rather than recommendations given in product data sheets (although they are certainly taken into account as well). After all it is a question literally about preservation of health and a life of people (if even to not touch a material side of a question. damage from a fire). And to be reinsured would be smarter than to make any error, negligence can lead to fatal consequences.

How to build sauna.How i installed the stove in the steam room.

The diagram below shows such indents and their minimum values in millimeters. Values without an asterisk are set by SNiP 41-01-2003 and are not subject to discussion at all. Those with asterisks correspond to SNiP II-33-75 which is not in force now, but if the current document does not specify. it is better to stick to these figures.

Diagram of safe location of the stove relative to the walls and ceiling

Unscreened wall of the metal furnace (adjacent to the furnace chamber).

shielded wall of the metal furnace, with a convection gap for air circulation.

Bath wall made of a combustible material (wood).

shielding of the sauna wall. According to SNIP it means a metal sheet of at least 0.55 mm thick placed on a layer of asbestos cardboard of at least 10 mm thickness. Nowadays, of course, other screens can be used, but also with the front metal surface and a thermal insulating capacity no lower than the normative one.

Overlap (ceiling) of the bathhouse made of flammable material.

chimney through the ceiling in the case of “bare” ends of the opening.

the same penetration, but at the ends of the opening, on which the shielding is not worse than in item 4.

Finally, above are shown two possible variants of prefabricated metal penetrations, consisting of lower (pos. 8) and upper (pos. 9) halves, the space between them is tightly filled with insulation (pos. 10), most often. quality basalt wool.

There are its own requirements and the location of the furnace above the floor surface:

If the floor is made of combustible material (wood), from there to the bottom of the ash-pan not less than 140 mm, and to the bottom of the gas turnover chamber not less than 210 mm.

If the heater is of frame construction or equipped with legs, the wooden floor must be screened with 10 mm asbestos sheet metal, and the distance from the floor to the bottom of the heater must be at least 100 mm.

In front of the furnace chamber, the floor should be padded with a steel sheet with sides 700÷500 mm (the long side goes along the furnace front), and all around the perimeter metal lining must protrude beyond the furnace dimensions not less than 150 mm.

The section of the floor under the installation of the sauna stove must be either non-combustible material, or be lined with a metal sheet

There are no such requirements for floors made of non-combustible materials, but they often have a metal lining on the facade of the furnace.

Again, fire safety rules are extremely important! And the tips of our brief publication is not necessary to be limited. it is worth looking for more information or even invite a specialist.

Mistakes when installing a chimney

By and large, without experience. there is nothing to take on the chimney yourself. The stakes are too high, the cost of a mistake can be too high.

• They can include, for example, improperly performed penetrations through floors (already mentioned more than once in this article).
• “Getting carried away” by horizontal or sloping sections of the pipe. their number should be kept to a minimum.
• Incorrect height. either less than the minimum required height of five meters or on the contrary. too high and thus the draught is too strong.
• It happens that the lower part of the pipe, directly after the furnace outlet, because of the increased draft literally glows red hot. In essence, it turns out. That afterburning of gases occurs in the chimney itself. Naturally, such a pipe will not last long, and taking bathing procedures in such “neighborhood” is an extremely dangerous occupation.

This means that we will have to deal with the height of the chimney, with the existing system to regulate the draft to “return” combustion back into the furnace. And in such a section you can hang a useful device that requires the withdrawal of thermal power. For example, a tank of water, put on the pipe, or a basket to fill it with stones.

• Improper location of the chimney cap relative to the roof or surrounding objects can dangerously reduce the draft or make it too dependent on the direction and speed of the wind.
• Often there is no thought of condensation protection, as a result the chimney gets covered in soot very quickly.

And that’s not all. Issues related to the device chimney and possible errors in its design and installation. very serious and multifaceted. They are better to put in a separate topic. over, on our portal this topic has already been covered.

A serious issue. a safe and effective chimney of the sauna stove!

How to avoid poisoning by combustion products and at the same time not to let the sauna stove cool down too quickly?? This is solved by the correct design of the chimney for the sauna stove. Which can be made of different materials.

Other common mistakes

Finishing the review, here are a few more “fails”, often inflicted by the owners of baths.

• Lack of a clear idea of which bathing tradition would be more to the liking of the owners. That means that initially they do not know whether to choose a stove with a closed (more suitable for Russian baths) or open (the Finnish tradition) heater. And sometimes you end up with something incomprehensible, like a “hammam” with a lot of moist steam but a low temperature.

So before choosing an oven, you should not only decide for yourself, but also read publications, reviews, devoted to the nuances of these devices.

• Some people, while trying to save money as much as possible, do not buy the recommended minerals, but fill the stove with natural cobblestones.

There is very little chance that you will be “lucky” and the rock is suitable for such use. But there may be a lot of trouble. And short-lived, crumbling stones are not the biggest problem. Worse, if from the heat such a pebble with a crackle breaks into pieces, with a scattering of small fragments. Or the combination of water and temperature will cause a chemical reaction in the mineral, releasing an unpleasant smelling, or even toxic for humans, gas.

No words, in many regions there is a long tradition of selecting local minerals for sauna stoves. But sometimes you can come across things that “make your hair stand on end”.

It’s hard to say what the owner of this bathhouse was guided by when filling the stove.

So it is safer to give preference to those minerals that are traditionally recommended for filling the sauna heater. talcochlorite, jadeite, gabbro-diabase, serpentinite, poirite and some others. Naturally. of the right size, correct shape, without cracks, chips, potholes.

• Another mistake related specifically to the stones. Each stove is designed for a certain load, which gives optimal heat emission to create a comfortable sauna atmosphere. But some owners decide to take the initiative. to “improve” the oven by installing additional grids, which are also filled with stones.

Stroyday Project Editor in Chief.ru. Engineer.

Don’t do it! It will not get better, but the violation of the normal heat exchange will almost certainly reduce the comfort of the steam room. Back to section two of this article. the furnace simply isn’t able to fully, properly heat anything that is beyond its capabilities.

• There is one more mistake that can be mentioned, which, by the way, is very dangerous. Namely the metal oven is bricked up but literally flush with the brick, without leaving a convection gap for air circulation.

What is the consequence of such a situation?? Yes all the same violation of the normal heat exchange, but only, as they say, “with the opposite sign”. Heat dissipation from the walls of the furnace worsens, and so the metal parts overheat to a red edge and can begin to deform, bend. And practice shows that even 5 mm thick thick thick walls lose their shape! How this deformation can end. I do not even want to think.

Exterior masonry around the oven is usually welcomed, but only if it does not impede the heat transfer from the metal walls of the appliance.

Resume. always leave a gap between the brickwork and the oven wall. And usually even conditions are created to improve convection flow, such as windows at the bottom for air entry. This, by the way, contributes to the rapid heating of the room in the steam room.

As you probably realize, this is not all possible mistakes. We will be glad if readers share their own stories or views on similar issues in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев.

At the end of the publication. a rather interesting video on the choice of a stove for the bath.

How to make a wooden floor in the bathhouse to be warm, and the boards do not rot. For a very long time this question did not give me peace of mind, as well as many other owners of wooden baths.

Some people say that it is necessary to make the floor as low to the ground as possible, others say it is necessary to make it higher. Someone advised to make the floors oak or limestone. they will never rot.

For inquisitive minds, let me explain why you should do neither.

A low floor will certainly rot, because there will always be dampness (and smell) under it. The high one will be cold, because the space underneath it will not get warm.

Oak and larch are not suitable for a bathhouse at all. Oak because of the specific smell, and larch because of the structure of the wood, which when often wet and dry can form long thin and very strong splinters.

The solution turned out to be simple as anything brilliant, and it was not in the floors, but in the sauna stove.

It is in it one small gimmick will heat and dry the floors, as well as rid the bath of dampness under the floor and, accordingly, the smell of this damp.

The essence of the question is that from the basement is made exhaust. Not the natural circulation through the basement windows, but precisely a powerful hood, too, by the way natural.

I will not “pull the cat by the tail”, such extraction is created by a device in the furnace additional ash tray, which is located below the floor, and fitted with a damper-shifter.

Actually, I don’t understand why you need an air damper on an extra air vent. I never had it closed, it was just a foot hazard, so I removed it altogether, but I will show you how I saw this kind of stove originally.

If you have a direct-firing furnace, you do not need an air vent.

The additional ash-pan in this stove has its name unreasonably, because it is actually the main one, since the usual ash-pan serves only for cleaning the grate and removing of ash in this construction.

And from beneath the floor comes good extraction. Warm air from the premises of the bath, which in a conventional oven down to the floor can not drive anything, forcibly penetrates into the basement and heats and dries the floor boards.

After all the pleasures of bathing, the hood does not allow moisture to stay in the basement for a long time, resulting in the floor boards lasting much longer.

In the iron bath furnace power extraction can be significantly increased if, as an additional farther out under the floor pipe d 100-120, and hold it through the furnace into the main chimney.

The pipe will be heated in the furnace and pull from the basement as well as a vacuum cleaner.

Advantages and disadvantages of the system

Such a system of floor heating in the bath is not a simple construction, which in addition to the advantages has disadvantages. The pros and cons are better known beforehand.

• Comfort from staying in the bath increases due to the fact that the temperature in the room is leveled. No perceptible drops and “cold” areas.
• When the circuits are set into the concrete screed, the heat accumulated in the structure is released evenly over a longer period of time.
• Economic benefits: no need to buy additional equipment or spend electricity to heat the coolant.
• It is possible to heat not only all the rooms of the bath, but also the floors in the house if the bath is annexed to it.
• Floors, if they are wooden, will not rot, as the heat from the system will quickly dry the wood. Fast drying of the surfaces in the steam room is prevented. good help for the ventilation system.
• The cold air coming in from below through the air inlet or grate in the door will immediately mix with the warm currents coming from the floor, without causing discomfort.
• Heating of the bath room to a comfortable temperature will be faster due to the additional heat source.
• The bathhouse can not be heated day and night. Therefore, in the winter time is necessary to drain the coolant each time, so that when it freezes, it did not break the contours. Alternatively, the water in the pipes can be replaced with antifreeze, and then you do not need to drain it in winter.
• Installation of “warm floor” even in a small room bath better to trust professionals who have experience and special equipment.
• The height of the structure, consisting of several mandatory layers, is 70. 110 cm. This is how much the height of the room will decrease.
• You will not be able to install a leaky floor in such a bathhouse anymore as excessive moisture will adversely affect the construction. Therefore, you will need to install a drainage hole and the withdrawal of the liquid into the sewer system.
• If you want to install “warm floor” in all rooms of the bath, you should be prepared that it will take longer to heat the coolant.
• Much of the energy from the furnace will be used to heat the floor heating.