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The fan blows cold air how to make

How to make air conditioning with your own hands from a fan: 5 ways

In hot weather, we most like to reduce the temperature of the air at home so that you can comfortably engage in household chores and rest without shedding later. And when the street thermometer reaches 30 degrees, we especially want to buy air conditioning, but its price bites. What to do? You can try to make an air conditioner from a regular fan. this is simple and will not take you much time. But you will enjoy a pleasant coolness!

There are several options on how to make air conditioning with your own hands right at home to escape from the heat. We talk about them in more detail.

And the casket just opened

Each air conditioner has a minimum temperature at which he can work for heat. In inverter models, it is.25.15 degrees, for ordinary.5 5 ° C. You can find it in the instructions.

The air conditioning documents also indicate the maximum temperature to which it can heat the air. Manufacturers indicate this figure, croaking with their souls. The greater the difference in temperature, the less the efficiency of the air conditioner.

For example, it is indicated that the air conditioner can operate on heat at temperatures on the street before.25. And to warm up to 28. It means that:

  • With frost.25 He will be able to heat the room to 16;
  • When on the street.20 air conditioning will give 18;
  • If on the street.15, it will heat up to 20;
  • When “overboard” 15, the air conditioner will be able to heat the room to the indicated 28.

The numbers are given for example, each model has different. Manufacturers do not specifically indicate them to mislead the buyer. Before sounding the alarm, look into the instructions or specification for the air conditioner.

Operating temperatures of the air conditioner for heating specified in the specifications.

You can process photos?⁠ ⁠

You can please somehow beautiful, but so that it was not too natural?

#86. Automatic climate control. Service and cold air

than two years have passed since my last record about automatic climate control. Then it all ended on a positive note, but, unfortunately, it did not last long. Indeed, cleaning the sensor with a fan gave its results. this node stopped overheating and submitting false commands for cold air. The following will describe the solution of two problems related to climate control. I think that this topic will not be very popular, but from this no less useful for those who are a “happy” owner of a single-zone automatic climate control.

History about cold air or a temporary decision

blows, cold, make

According to information from the forum, Fomoco engineers when designing climate control came up with such a thing “Strategy of layered separation of air temperature”, It is intended for blowing the driver’s face so that he does not fall asleep when moving. Very smart implementation, but in the conditions of the harsh climate of Siberia, a cool flow of air in the face makes you feel extremely not comfortable.

What do we have? Two temperature sensors who send the command of the control unit that hot air exceeded a certain temperature. All this is programmed in the block and has a bunch of variations of the control of the damper, in a word. a smart thing. Only now our craftsmen are smarter, and so that the climate control does not blow cold air when moving, they came up with disconnecting these 2 sensors, pulling out the corresponding wires from the block. There will be no photos, everything is perfectly written on the forum.

At the moment, I have been traveling with disconnected sensors for about a week and I can say with confidence that now my face is simply burned with a stream. The temperature on the climate control is not regulated, which is quite logical-we turned off the sensors, and the control unit thinks that in the car is a complete dubak. I will not say how this problem will affect in the summer, when the air conditioner is working, but I will definitely try this operating mode.

blows, cold, make

In this mode, with disconnected temperature sensors to ride in winter A controversial solution. On the one hand, the car is warm, even hot I would say. Last time. 15 I went without a jacket at all. On the other hand, a hot flow of air into the face is extremely unpleasant, even the adjustment of the speed of rotation of the stove motor does not save, still at the very minimum, hot air makes nausea sometimes, it becomes just bad. There is a solution here. just change the wiring in places, they say to many help, but I haven’t done so far. You can also switch the damper to the position of the leg and to the windshield, and if the hot air is blows perfectly on the “frontal” and “in the face” (which, by the way, is very dangerous, t.to. There is a high probability of getting a thermal crack due to a temperature difference-both the windshield and the face), then in the “leg” I determined another problem-the ducts were simply silent, the flow of air did not change.

History about servo drives and the damper of the air flow in the legs

I began to notice for a long time that my legs are very freezing in the car, it manifested itself in the winter of 2016. But either due to the lack of free time, or because of my own laziness, I scored on this problem. And I also read somewhere to get to servo drives or shutters-you need to disassemble half the entire panel. And he traveled, until he again began to study the forum, where almost everything about servo drives and damper is written by Russian in white. As I found out, the automatic climate control system is very different from the cable system. Removing the lower plastic lining under the wheel of the driver, my gaze appeared quite a clear and understandable picture. The block controls three servo drives, which in turn open or close the shutters located inside the heater body.

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Now a little general information regarding servo drives. Like most electronics in the car, these motor are produced by the company Visteon (Art. 1S7H-19E616-AA). New from 6000 ₽, on the analysis from 400 ₽. They rarely fail and work fine until the last days of cars. Have compatibility with Ford Mondeo MK3 (2000-2007) and Jaguar X-Type (2001-2009). There are three of them and they are identical, each is responsible for their commands from the control unit.

The upper is responsible for blowing windshield and face, it also controls the stream of recirculation in the cabin, there are 2 gears between the damper and the drive itself, I additionally cleaned them with a layer of dirty dust and sprayed with grease. The work of this drive, as well as the damper subject to it, was and is left without shame.

Why is My Oven Blowing Cold Air?

The lowest. I could not track the operation of the drive, pressed all the buttons in different sequences, but there were no movements. It is believed that he is responsible for the cold air, when too heated climate temperature sensors in the cabin give the command first control unit, and then the servo drive opens the damper with a cold air flow. But it is not exactly.

Average drive. The culprit’s desired. It has only 2 positions that open or close the blowing of the blowing into the legs. Removing it from the heater body (3 TOREX screws), I began to test it in my hands. the motor rotated without problems. Further, my attention was attracted by the sleeve. an intermediary between a motor and a damper. Apparently from old age, or from air temperature, this sleeve cracked and the servo was just spinning in it, spreading the facets.

This sleeve also did not want to rotate by hand, and the verdict was flooded. the barrel. The WD-40 sprayed a couple of times and it shook, rotated with the same ease with which the servo itself was spinning. The search for a new sleeve did not give absolutely any results, so I did everything very simple. super glue with soda, additionally in the designated space, which does not catch up and does not rub it, it attached a plastic screed. I think this design will live for a very long time.

The width of the blades matters

If you choose a lobed fan, be sure to assess the size of its rotating parts. This principle unmistakably works in this matter: the longer and more powerful than the blades, the more efficient they blow the space. Accordingly, people in the room will be more comfortable even in the most severe heat.

how to make a cold air fan, simple spray. against hot for summer [newcd]

A fan with wide and long blades will not only spin and wind electricity. Due to the high intensity of its work, such a device will be able to really cool the air to a comfortable temperature. True, as soon as it is turned off, everything will fall into place. Whatever one may say, but wait for the fan to perform the functions of the air conditioner is not worth.

Stove: cold in the salon in the frost and methods of eliminating problems.

So dear gentlemen-classic breeders Hello! With the offensive, cold weather began to notice that many had problems with heating. I decided to share with you personally in this post what methods of eliminating these problems are.

To begin with, I wanted to highlight in my opinion the three main reasons for the weak heating of the cabin in our car1. Light pattern of coolant2. Weak air circulation in the stove itself3. Other, in my opinion, possible causes of cold in the cabin.

And so let’s go in order.one. System of coolant.I believe that this is the main reason for many poor heating of the cabin.one.1) poor fluid patency along the radiator of the stove.Poor fluid circulation according to the coolant and, as a result of which according to the radiator of the stove, can occur due to the pump, the tap of the stove and the clogged radiator of the stove. This case is checked in the following way: a) we start a cold car and turn on the stove.b) lay the hand on the air ducts and observe the growth of the coolant temperature according to the device.c) if the air from the stove is heated synchronously with an increase in temperature, then everything is ok, through the tap and radiator the liquid passes normally, the pump shakes well.d) the car is warming up and there is no air from the stove. We begin to look for the reason.Open the hood. We throw off the pipes from the radiator of the stove, from the lower should be the logic of things to flow antifreeze \ antifreeze. We are waiting for the liquid to drain from the lower pipe. We are looking for another hose, such an internal diameter that it could be put on the upper hose from the radiator of the stove. We make a funnel from a plastic bottle and begin to shed a radiator through it. If the liquid flows from the lower pipe with a good stream, then the radiator and the tap is normal. If the jet is bad or the liquid is barely running, it means that: either the radiator of the stove itself is clogged, or the oxen is the stove tap, which is the poor patency of the first. Both, as it seemed in my own personal experience, is treated with a replacement. IMHO.If the radiator spills well, but the stove does not warm. We go further, namely, check the work of the pump. We put the lower stove hose back, the upper one remains not connected. We block the stove tap in the cabin and start the engine and at the same time look at the pipe from the pump, which leads the og to the stove. The liquid should run from it with a good stream, if there is no reason for this, there may be either a falling blade of one or two pieces on the pump itself (I personally did not see this in life, but experienced say that it happens) or the pump belt is slightly pulled. The first is treated with disassembly and replacement of the pump. The second is quickly checked: we take a belt in the hand about the center between the pulse of the block and the pulley of the pump and begin to twist it (belt) to the left to the right. It should turn exactly 90 degrees in both directions, twists more. the belt subsided, pulled strongly (it does not scroll to 90 degrees). let us go. Important! A tattered belt can become the consequences of a drunk pulley of the pump!one.2) blockages in the coolant and its cleaning system.And in winter and summer it is bad. In winter, the stove does not heat up and the motor warms up well, and in the summer we generally overheat. The way out is to clean. How to clean the system and methods of a lot of methods, I personally use the following method: we take weak flushing (an average of 100 km of run) for the coolant system in such quantities so that it would be enough exactly two times (why I will write this way below). Pour the flushing, pass above the specified mileage. We drain it, my running water, again pour the antifreeze in the combat with flushing. We pass 100 km, drain, again with my water and pour back fresh antifreeze \ antifreeze.And finally, why the weak. This is due to the fact that severe flushing can lead to the fact that in the channels of the circulation of coolants can immediately (from the walls) will be stolen by large pieces of scale, which will lead to more blockage that there is no buzz. As practice has shown in my personal car, this method with a two.time flushing of the system is 100% efficient and painless. Perhaps on this point everything. Well, how can you “wash”. decide for yourself. Fortunately, in the web Infa about this is full.one.3) Air of the cold engine open the radiator cork, start and Gray the engine. At first there is no duct, air (if any) pushes part of the liquid outside. As heated, it can be several times. We make sure that the cooling always covers the upper plates (visible through the hole), if we need to add the liquid. When the thermostat opens, we observe streams inside the radiator. We muffle, curl the radiator to the eyeballs, squeezing the upper pipe we drive out the remaining air from it, add the radiator, add the expansion tank so that the radiator is flowing from the neck, we immediately close the radiator cork. We add the expansion tank to the maximum, close it. Everything, no air. By the way, the system is designed so that over time it itself will drive out all the air.one.4) Thermal steam is constantly circulating in a large circle of the system, that is, always through the main radiator. Following which, especially in winter, the car will never be able to warm up to its normal operating temperature and as a conclusion from this, the stove will warmly warm. It is easily checked: up to 80-85 degrees on the device, the upper radiator hose should be cold. If it heats or heats up synchronously with a heating car. the thermostat is a p and. It is treated with replacement. It may also be that the previous owner of the car before you (as it was with my friend) put an empty thermostat. Need to be changed to a new worker.one.5) all the different leaks.You need to observe how are you in the subframed space and also in the car interior.They will “run” the cells of the radiator. we observe the Luzhiki liquid on the lower mud protection of the engine on the right \ left. Also, with a heated motor, you can sometimes see a light haze in the form of a steam from the main radiator.The flow of the pump can also be seen from the bottom on the right side. There may be spray of coolant on the cylinder block and puddles on the same motor protection.Nozzles flow. here everything is clear. The only thing, you will still need to carefully examine the pipe of the liquid removal from the pump to the stove. She, and as you, understands can reproduce. As I had, it rotted precisely in the place where there is a fittings for the selection of fluids on the intake collector. It is treated only by replacement.The plugs of the block flowing, again I had a case with a plumber near the pump. From them there will be subsidies in the form of streams from coolant. 100% can be checked on a pit with a carrying in the hands.The radiator of the stove or a tap flows. there will be a wet carpet. The radiator can be sold out, but I would recommend changing immediately.one.6) a breakdown of the gasket between the HBC and the block, the breakdown in the GBC itself.The most nightmare. It happens when it pierces the gasket between the cylinder block and the head or the head flows (or the inlet collector). Cooling goes to the engine and vice versa. gases in cooling. Symptoms: the liquid flies from the exhaust pipe on the heated engine (put the cardboard, look), the white foam on the lid of the oil.loading neck, the inflated hoses of the laziness system, from the expansion tank or the neck of the radiator constantly comes air, exhaust gas or steam. The engine overheats in the summer and can also be the cause of cold air, the cooling is constantly leaving (the level falls). It is treated by replacing the above laying, repairing the GBC (or replacing it with a replacement) well and the Kolekor.According to paragraph 1.5-1.6. all this can quite really cause a low fluid level in the system, which leads to a smaller amount of the coolant’s stove, and as you understood not warm air in the cabin, and as you understand.

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Bath to help the fan

Open windows are not able to independently solve the problem of hot rooms. Therefore, the bathtub filled with cold water will be an additional step. Naturally, the door should remain open.

To improve heat transfer by circulating air in the bathroom, you can also install a floor fan and adjust the intensity of the blown air flow.

Gaining cold water into the bath, an important moment is the lowering of the part that remained in the pipes. After some time, the “warm water” drains and the really cold will go, which must be assembled.

How to install fans in a computer housing

The installation of coolers in the system unit is carried out according to different schemes. Before working with them, you must definitely familiarize yourself with them, since the incorrect location of these nodes can do even more harm than their absence. Typically, the motherboard has a pair of connectors for cooling. They can be used by both or only one. Fan installation circuits in the computer case will then be as follows:

You can choose any of these options, but the most preferred is the last. Note that the use of only one cooler in one way or another violates the air balance in a closed system. Therefore, we will consider each option separately.

DIY DIY thermal core repair. diagram, causes of malfunction, thermal protection.

With the advent of the first cold weather, the main wand-up in the warming of our dwellings and offices, not bulky oil batteries or convectors, but small and compact heat talents are not becoming.

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It is they who allow for a very short period of time, raise the temperature in the room at once several degrees.

However, as a result of operation, which is called fully, sooner or later comes the moment when the douche stops working. What to do in this case? Run to the store for the new model Scarlet (Scarlett), Saturn (Saturn) or Comfort (comfort) and hope that they will be much more reliable?

Because they are not very expensive. However, it is not at all necessary to buy another heat cautifier, if you can repair the available with your own hands.

In order to find the cause of the breakdown, it takes only 2 things. screwdriver and multimeter.

The most important thing is to determine whether there is contact in a particular circuit, or it is not. Let’s take a closer look at how thermal cores are arranged, how to disassemble them, what most often fails and trace the consistent chain of checking one element after another.

The first thing to do is to call and check the integrity of the power cord and all visible contacts. You may not have to climb far into the inside of the device at all, and the trouble will be on the “surface”.

To do this, unscrew and remove the lower or side cover, depending on your model.

Keep in mind that the central screws should not initially be unscrewed, since the motor is attached to them.

Remove them and all the insides will be collapsed. It will be better that the engine itself sits fixed for one of the covers.

Next, find contacts where the power wires 220V come. If “lucky”, sometimes without any devices you can immediately see the burned out wiring.

Sit it in place and all repair ends. If the problem is more serious, then just probe and twitch all the terminal clamps.

Since the fan vibrates in the process, it is quite possible that some of them elementarily moved away from his place. You can detect poor contact on the terminal and according to characteristic traces of burning.

Often such defects become the reason that the heat.cumber is spontaneously turned on and off. Especially when you move it and move.

If you identify this, clean it and then wipe the site with a wool moistened in alcohol.

Further by the pliers, slightly press the terminal and put it back.

Only after all these manipulations, you can proceed to checking with measuring devices.

blows, cold, make

Switch the tester to the dialing mode, and the probes alternately check the integrity of the power wires. To do this, touch introductory contacts inside the fan and metal pins on a fork.

If everything is regular, the tester will make a sound or show zero resistance.

If you work something, for example, the fan is spinning when you are on the network, but the air is cold at the same time, then the cord is of course nothing to do with it. Its check in this case can be omitted.

In the same way, a microswitch is nicknamed, which is sometimes built into the case.

Switch its key and check that there is a chain.

These things at large currents very often fail. Repair in this case is quite simple. Two wiring suitable to it are bent and interconnected directly.

The connection place is isolated by a protective cap of PPE or simple isolation.

The only negative. from now on the heat cementoer will work immediately after you stuck the fork in the outlet.

When the switch has nothing to do, check the following chain elements. By the way, do not forget about the mechanical part.



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