Tools and materials
For soldering the printed circuit boards we need
- Actually, a soldering station with a hair dryer and a set of nozzles;
- flux (e.g. Interflux IF8001). this is a very important component, it ensures good contact of elements during assembly and further serviceability of the board;
- solder paste;
- a stencil for applying solder paste to a chip
- reflowable solders (e.g., Wood, Rose Alloy) that would help in soldering a component off the board
- a tool to remove excess solder, it could be a suction syringe or a copper braid (“pigtail” of thin wire);
- tweezers or a flat-blade screwdriver;
- Alcohol to wash the connection.
This kit is individually selected for each craftsman. And in addition to that we need a good light and a lens to look at the soldering joint.
And yet. the utmost care and a lot of patience.
Rebuild the soldering station. A cold hair dryer
Hello. It is the same soldering station for pennies, today I will rework it. Sometimes there is a need in a stream of cold air, to dry the part or board from alcohol, for example. Before that I used all kinds of coolers, but I decided that I need to modify my soldering station with cold blowing system! By the way here is a link to a review of the soldering station Well, to begin with disassembled the control unit and removed the board to study the circuit. The spirals in the hair dryer are powered through a triac from 220V, to control the heater on a 220V circuit is not safe. Here’s a control simistor made by the classical circuit through an optocoupler MC3041. According to the datasheet on the optocoupler on the 1st leg comes 5 volts, from the second leg of the control current flows through a 150 ohm resistor to the 15th leg of the processor. That would interrupt the heating, I suggested to cut the control circuit, and then I thought, is it worth leaving the control pin in the air?? What if the statics or something else. Simply cut the track is not possible, but put a resistor of higher resistance in the circuit can.
I found a small track going to 15 pin, cleaned it from varnish, cut a piece about 0,2-0,3mm, well tin-plated the cleaned track and soldered in the first SMD resistor of 10 kOhm. Turned on the hair dryer to check, the air flow is normal, the temperature does not rise, it means that everything works
To control cold and hot operation, I made a small switch. I soldered wires parallel to a new resistor. When the contacts are closed, the control current is normal and the heating element turns on, when the contacts are open, current flows through the 10 kOhm resistor, the voltage drops and current tends to near zero values.
As long as everything is working, you can assemble it into the enclosure. I glued the wires, in case of unexpected wire breaks and short circuits. The picture doesn’t show exactly what I did on the board. I hope you understood where to solder and what to glue. It makes no sense to show the picture of how the purge works, so I made a short video.
It took me only an hour, but it expanded the function of the hair dryer. Now it is both a dryer and a purger and a soldering iron. As a dryer I used it to repair a subwoofer speaker cone, and that’s actually why I started it. About the modification of the all in principle, and about the soldering station still there is something to add, it may come in handy. First of all I was recently asked again how to calibrate the hair dryer, the instructions like hold the temperature buttons plus and minus when turning on does not help. I had this problem once turned on the calibration mode and unknowingly knocked out the setting, turn on the calibration again did not work. I tried different combinations, wrote to the seller, even was ready to dance with tambourine. Huh, luckily it did not come to a dance, also found a combination of randomly how to turn on the calibration of the soldering iron. You need to take the soldering iron off the stand, turn on the power and press the button down until it says C.A.L. on the display.
You only need to put the thermocouple under the hot flux and set the same readings as on the thermometer with the buttons. After 10-15 seconds after the last button presses the hair dryer will go into operating mode. There is no problem
Second, while twisting the soldering iron, I decided to look at the schematic. Searching for soldering station circuit 858D tiresomely, a lot of similar circuits, all working on the same principle, but still different. Of course, it’s tedious to look for the schematic, comparing it with the printed circuit board, but I found it anyway. There are marks in red on the schematic, don’t pay any attention to them. I’ll add the schematic here so you don’t waste your time.
Repair of the soldering station saike 852D (repair of the hair dryer)
By the way. If you didn’t notice it, the mode switch is not in the middle, but on the side. I made it to make further adjustments, there is still lots of space in the case and I thought of adding a temperature-controlled soldering iron. The reason is that the place on the desktop is always small and want to arrange everything as compact as possible Soldering iron 60W 24V for only 250, we have such all 500. Once ordered it in China from this link. So there is no time to finalize, but in the near future, be sure to write about it! In the meantime, tell me what you think about the work done in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев. I will be happy to get any criticism, advice on how else to improve the tool would be very nice. And while you think, what to write or wish, I recommend to subscribe to updates in VK or OK, that not to miss the latest news. For example, in the following article I will tell about homemade universal 3 in 1 probe for the car. Edward
How to repair a construction hair dryer. all types of damage and fixing them
Construction or industrial hair dryer. this is not a mandatory tool for the home craftsman, but its presence allows you to implement a number of complex works. Such work includes the removal of paintwork, separation of two parts glued with sealant (car headlights), as well as the heating of materials when deshumming the car. With frequent and improper use, the tool can fail, so let’s find out in detail what is the repair of a construction hair dryer, how to find the breakdown and eliminate it with minimal cost.
Infrared soldering station
Repairing complex circuits and motherboards (especially those with BGA components) you need an infrared soldering station. The Chinese soldering iron was of very low quality and a good infrared unit was quite expensive. The output is obvious: there is nothing difficult to assemble a soldering tool with your own hands.
When assembling such a soldering device can be invested in a budget of up to 10 thousand. rubles. In spite of low prime cost the station is well suited for chip mounting and repair operations.
Description of construction
The device consists of the following components:
The controller should be a 2-channel type.
First channel is connected to a thermocouple or platinum-type thermistor. The second should be simply connected to the pair. Both channels have automatic and manual modes. The first allows temperatures up to 255 degrees with thermocouple or thermistor feedback.
Manual mode allows adjustments in 99% ranges. The memory of the controller has fourteen different types of thermal profiles: seven lead-type profiles and seven profiles for lead-free soldering.
For lead solder, the maximum temperature profile range starts at 190°, then every 5 to 220°.
For lead-free solder, the maximum profile temperatures start at 225° and then every 5 to 250°.
When the upper heating element simply fails and the heating cannot be provided, the controller element goes into pause mode and waits for the desired temperature. This allows the chip to adapt to heaters so weak that they are unable to follow thermal profiles.
The controllers are also used as soldering station temperature regulators, e.g. if drying or curing of solder masks is required. These devices are great for temperature maintenance.
Heating element. Combating the Chinese product and repairing the Lukey 702
Not so long ago I had a tragedy. my soldering iron from Lukey 702 station died after about a year of operation. The heating element failed. And I got used to this station, although the people berate it. I had to get Chinese soldering irons out of the closet and again to suffer with the terrible Chinese stingers. But that is not the point of this review.
The waiting for the goods took 38 days and I already thought that CT-96 Chinese soldering iron is the top of soldering technology. But the post office did bring me a package
The packaging is very good. apparently the ceramics of our mail is one tooth and the seller decided not to risk
And here they are. the elements I was waiting for
They are longer than the promised 70mm!
I have to cut the board, as they say on the internet
No. Wrong. The white sleeve is fireproof and the element is exactly the same as mine
The elements are simple. the two white wires are the coil, blue and red are the thermocouple. I soldered them on and they don’t work. The rest of the elements of the batch also.
But we do not give up so quickly. Combination of wires showed that the Chinese just mixed up the colors of wires Red and white are coil 13 Ohm
Blue and the other white is thermocouple 1.8 ohms at room temperature Finger heat changes resistance to 2.4 Ohm
To make sure everything works. soldering element to the soldering iron on the wires Turn it on, it does not work Change the polarity of the thermocouple. the temperature jumped up sharply, the element heats up. Yay! It remains only to solder the element and assemble the soldering iron I measured the temperature of the tip with a thermocouple from the device. 294 (the station shows 300). Basically within the margin of error
Dissection will be the old element Having cracked the outside ceramic tube I see a nichrome spiral As showed the autopsy “the patient has died from dissection” there blew out one wire of the spiral Inside, in the second ceramic tube thermocouple
Here is the end of the story of Chinese product with the happy end. Wrote a note. a message to the future, how to revive the remaining three elements. Just in case I get sclerosis before the next repair of soldering iron. The conclusion is one. the product can be taken with the “peculiarities” of the labeling of conclusions. Time will tell how long it will last.
Also thought about changing the constantly falling off soldering iron socket (like the PS/2). Good thing I got some great screw-on connectors from Tao “But that’s another story”. ©
Pet sniffed the merchandise. I guess I decided there was something wrong with it.
Purchase of any product of the Chinese industry, regardless of the price, is always a lottery. Completely unknown, what exactly stuffed tired 16-hour shift Chinese in your copy. In the example of the considered LUKEY 702 station, we can find not only three variants of external assembly (very different stands for soldering irons, soldering irons themselves, etc.).п.), but also fundamentally different electronic stuffing.Great difference in the quality of soldering and installation, sometimes there are no radiators on the regulating elements. Very different quality transformers. Some are quite decent, and some hum, vibrate, and even burn.The same difference in the tuning apparatus and measuring DUTs. According to various reports in the network, the deviation of the actual temperature can reach 50C or more.
See this alien green eyesore? This printed circuit board serves as an adapter of PS/2 connector to the main board on the main PCB to the seat of another connector. To make a long story short. The connector is to be replaced! I have a couple of military, but on a threaded connection.
Next, I really didn’t like the idea of the Chinese to keep the Lukey transformer constantly plugged in. Even though my copy didn’t hum and didn’t overheat, well, it’s not right.I put a circuit breaker. No problems, there is plenty of space in the case.If you refinish your Lukey, remember the need to wait with a complete turn off from the mains after working with a hair dryer! It takes some time, during which the hair dryer blows air without heat. to cool their internals down to an acceptable temperature. Failure to do so could put the hair dryer out of commission.
And here’s the top of the Chinese syrah. The guys in the basement didn’t get the Atmega8, but they can’t idle the production!PIC16F883 will help us, but it’s more expensive than the minimum by a whole dollar, and also requires an adapter, but who’s counting? A bag of “pikushkas” was taken out during the night shift from the same quite official factory from which the “megs” used to be taken out.I won’t even say anything about the fact that all 702s are equipped with LUKEY 868 printed circuit boards. According to some sources they are the same, the difference is in the soldering iron (868 is better) and the knobs instead of buttons.
Soldering station repair blow dryer or.
homemade 2 in 1 soldering station, based on a hair dryer and a kit for assembling a soldering station on T12 To start with a hair dryer. Purchased the hair dryer on the expanse of ebay last year, for the lowest price. Since time passed, the package was not preserved, but I remember that it was a yellow envelope on the inside with a huge amount of dust on it The size was a little bigger than the package of antistatic in which the hair dryer was placed, about 300×400 mm. I don’t know why I put the hair dryer in the antistatic I forgot, it came pretty fast and undamaged. Specifications from the website of the seller: 1. Model: 858 858D 898D 852D 2. Color: Black 3. Dimensions: (8.66 x 2.36 x 1.18″ / (22 x 6 x 3)cm (L x W x H) 4. Weight: 7.90oz / 224g 5. Voltage: 220V Package Includes: 1 x Hot Air Gun Handle Actual dimensions and weight seem to match. Only I have the weight without the wire. The one meter wire wasn’t long enough for me, so I quickly replaced it with a two meter one. And soldered eight-pin connector GX16 bought in advance on ali. Inside the hair dryer is a type of turbine, with a motor for 24V. And a heater with a resistance of 69 ohms. By simple manipulation with the numbers we get the power of the hair dryer of 700 watts. I think for him it is too much, so the heater in the control box will work through a diode. Half the period’s good enough for it. Yes, by the way, in the background you can see the reed. To turn the hair dryer off when installed in a stand if no one forged a magnet from there. My hair dryer will be used without a stand. Therefore, the reed switch is just there just in case. Inside I screwed a small micro switch which will manually simulate the reed switch. In my dementia, I bought the cheapest nozzles to the hair dryer. Four of them But they weren’t for him at all. I had to get out of the situation by cutting the clamp on the metal with a hacksaw and bending the edges of the nozzle with side cutters to get some kind of hooks, which go into the guides on the body of the hair dryer heater. When you turn the nozzle is firmly fixed on the body of the heater. About the hair dryer and its preparation seems to be all. About the soldering iron. I had to replace the wire in that one too, with a two meter wire. As wires turned out longer and their resistance increased, I had to screw around here too. I have eliminated grounding as a class. If possible, the wires were wired together. I got a double for plus and minus/general and one for the vibration sensor. And it was not enough for the soldering iron to develop full power. I had to screw in a “national” power supply (I use it to power the soldering iron and the fan of the hairdryer) and a fine trimmer in the TL431 circuit. Which gave me the ability to adjust the output voltage. I got it up to 26.5 volts, to compensate for the voltage drop on the wires. Finished with the soldering iron By the way, here comes the handle from a BAKON 950D, somehow the unscrewing/screwing of the nut to change the tip didn’t appeal to me. I will try a knob without the nut, maybe it’s better. And now we are moving on to the soldering station 2 in 1. About the kit on the T12, I will not write. It’s already written/rewritten here. We got acquainted with the hair dryer Moving on to the control unit for the hair dryer and the box that brings everything together. I didn’t want to have to do it myself. In search of a suitable circuit for the hair dryer controller, the Internet was again searched. Where I came across a blog where the author briefly talks about the simple control box with a short video. I was satisfied with it. I downloaded the schematic, redrawn in DipTrace and made the printed circuit. Then made a board for the control unit. By the way, here is the second board. The first was going to just try how it works. All worked. I made the second board and assembled all the groups, but I have not got down to this point. Under the board and the power supply unit, at a local radio store was purchased housing with “ears”, size 185.795.553mm. With “ears”, the way soldering station will be placed on the wall. Holes were drilled in the case for the exhaust fan and ventilation, to install indicators and connectors. I can not videotape the process because it is too old. At that time I didn’t think I’d be writing any reviews on mouska. Then I installed controller from soldering iron T12 constructor into the case. 24V power supply for soldering iron is installed. It also powers the fan of the hair dryer. 5 volt power supply for soldering iron controller, forged from RGB bulb. A fan speed regulator is assembled and installed on a pair of transistors and a 10 kOhm thermistor, the fan speed is regulated depending on the temperature inside the case. The thermistor is in the way of air circulation, in front of the fan. It regulates well Inside the control box Then we close everything and we get a set of three parts, a soldering iron, a hair dryer and a control box. Hook the soldering iron and hair dryer to the control box and you have a 2 in 1 soldering station. What we have here. Soldering iron on T12, a lot has already been written about it and a hair dryer. TPH hair dryer:. heater powered by 220 volts, through the diode. stabilization of the temperature setting. arbitrary temperature setting. after turning off, when you turn on the hair dryer is set to the last exposed temperature. three pre-set temperatures. adjustment of the hot air flow speed. How many cubic meters per hour, no idea fan power 24 volts, from the power supply of a soldering iron. turning off the hair dryer when installed in a stand, if there is a magnet, or manual shutdown microtumblers. after turning off the fan runs until the temperature drops to the minimum for the hair dryer, 50 Celsius maximum temperature.480 degrees. minimum temperature. 50 degrees. beep when the temperature stabilizes That’s about it. Now a little video of the station. Why is it so noisy, I do not know. In reality the hair dryer works much quieter.
By tradition the link to download the archive, the schematic and printout in DipTrace plus the firmware from the blog. Thank you very much for that. Here is link to archive with temperature regulator. Appendix: At the prompting of the GDN was downloaded from the radokot and the new firmware, as resistor R1 was replaced by 10 kOhm. The result is obtained five temperature presets, turning off the hair dryer at a temperature of not 50, but 40 degrees Celsius. The numbers look less jumpy and annoying, the output temperature is more stable. Here is the link to download the firmware update, so you don’t have to search through the wilds of Radiocat forum. Here is a short video with new firmware.
Sequence of actions on the example of a smd component
Let’s assume that on the working surface of the electronic block you are repairing there is a burnt-out smd-card that needs to be disassembled. To remove it and put the new one, you need to choose a compact nozzle for your hair dryer and prepare the flux.
The temperature mode on the soldering iron is set in the range of 345-350 degrees with the help of the regulator. Then put flux on the part that needs to be replaced, and begin the slow “warming up.
The air pressure in the process should not be too strong, otherwise there is a risk of blowing out the adjacent elements. The culprit of failure continue to heat until the beginning of the melting of solder, which will be immediately noticeable.
It may take about three minutes to warm up, this is normal, there is no need to rush. If the “persistence” of the solder is prolonged, you need to add 5 degrees.
After the solder has liquefied, carefully remove the smd part. In the process, it is important not to damage the neighboring components, because they are sure to lose stability because of the melting of the solder that holds them.
After finishing the copper braiding operation, you need to clean up the “nickels” (contact pads), then provide small bumps in the same places with solder paste or solder.
Good smd is placed in its old place with a minimum amount of flux. They heat the part with a soldering iron until the solder shines brightly, flowing over each of the contacts.
Lukey 702 soldering iron with removable hair dryer
I solder for myself every now and then. Little by little the parts got smaller and smaller, the standard soldering iron became insufficient. I bought a Lukey 702 soldering station with the bonus of a nonremovable hair dryer.
I will not write about improvement of the heater. I’ll describe a very simple improvement: I made a removable hair dryer (t.к. I use it seldom) and added a power switch, so as not to pull the cord out of the socket.