The air conditioner flows in the car from below to the ground

Topic: air conditioning compressor. flows.

In general, I went through under the car and with some mother, I took it all the same. DENSO 7SBU16C as I said, the compressor is absolutely dry on top. In places of connecting the hoses are also dry. The hoses are dry. Wet only from below. Judging by the photo

, Something is annoying me with a valve. It looks like it flows from him. (what is his function there?) Now relative to freon. When I spun the hoses from the compressor. He hissed with a puff of smoke for sure. the pressure there was a normal campaign, well, and the freon himself was enough, t.e. did not disappear in 7 months. Freon stink of of course disgusting. It was also that the sinks on the compressor stuck. Who knows how it stinks and stinks of oil? After it was struck by the whole Freon, some kind of green gram could have spilled out of the compressor, 50 maybe 100. Twisted the pulley. noisy and there is a little backlash. Under the replacement bearing?

I don’t understand, but how did you look if you ask the manufacturer’s company only today? For all air conditioners their reptiles

There were not many search options. By the compressor number from the ETKA options installed by the compressors there were 1 DENSO and most likely 7SBU16C, therefore, for the sake of interest, I decided to look for a reprimatum kit, but for 300 and even for 1000 I did not find anything at all anywhere.

This is what most embarrasses in this story. In theory, the whole Frion was supposed to disappear from him in a couple of days. And only the oil flows.

Here is a question. Oil in the compressor is poured? He, along with the refueling of Freon, seems to be refueled. No? Oil has common channels with freon, t.e. Can oil flow out, and the freon remain in the compressor?

there the valve with a sylphon is most likely not tight.

Yes. Green slurry is oil. 50% in the compressor crankcase 30% in the Dnuery (by the way, the system nozzle is drowned out, otherwise the water drainage drift and the fleet of 1000r) is dissolved in the freon and is smeared with a thin layer throughout the system

Not. a mixture of freon with butter flows, Freon evaporates. Oil remains. Disassemble, check the integrity of the valves, change the bearing, seal, look that with the valve and collect. Refuel check. You can buy a new one for 15,000 you can buy a boo (cat in a bag) for 5000 or give the masters for overdoor- for 15,000 if you had a freon in the system and did not cold your problem. Blood valve. faulty valve (which in oil). The EM clutch is faulty. Teflon erased on the pistons in the compressor. In short, disassemble.

Noble pepper of the club VW Passat B5! Registration 21.ten.2013 Address Sverdlovsk Region. Age 55 Posts 5.639 records in diary 6

Skopansw

Local

Answer: I turned on the air conditioner and water flowed into the legs.

most likely the drainage from the evaporator clogged.

Advanced newcomer

Answer: I turned on the air conditioner and water flowed into the legs.

100, only he could not clog, and the drain pipe was sticking.She is already flattened.I had it.Took the wire and opened the hole.from there it was whipped.And nothing was clogged.Today again the same baida.The tip of the tube is adapted.So I think it is necessary to spray with silicone.

PS Pipe is located if you look under the hood to the right of the stove hoses and down to the checkpoint.

Bulldog

Mastering

Answer: I turned on the air conditioner and water flowed into the legs.

Thanks.The pool was leaked.yes, it will be necessary to process from microbes.

Our person

Answer: I turned on the air conditioner and water flowed into the legs.

100, only he could not clog, and the drain pipe was sticking.She is already flattened.I had it.Took the wire and opened the hole.from there it was whipped.And nothing was clogged.Today again the same baida.The tip of the tube is adapted.So I think it is necessary to spray with silicone.

PS Pipe is located if you look under the hood to the right of the stove hoses and down to the checkpoint.

How to detect leaks in a chain

Since the gas-chradagent is a colorless substance, it is impossible to detect air conditioning leaks with the naked eye. Thus, it is necessary to apply professional methods that will identify for sure in which place the leaks occur. Detection methods are as follows:

Due to the use of dye and UV lamps

This method of detection of leaks is the oldest of the three of the above.mentioned. It consists in adding fluorescent dye, which is mixed with coolant and oil, which adds gas loads for weak areas through which the coolant leaks occurs.

After a few minutes of the chain (at least 5 minutes), you can already look for losses. To do this, direct the lamps and draw along all channels and connections. Glasses that protect against ultraviolet radiation and help to detect a leak. mandatory. Next, where a greenish spot is observed and there is a leak of gas-chladagent, which must be fixed.

Their main disadvantage is that they are not able to identify microcracks. Therefore, when using such a system, it is not always possible to find losses and eliminate leaks of the air conditioning system in the machine.

Using a detector

This is a system that can detect the leaks of the refrigerant gas, immediately and without the need to use any dyes. The device has a sensor with adjustable sensitivity, which allows you to detect very small losses (up to 2 g/year approximately).

To check if there is a leak, it is necessary to bring the probe closer to the possible loss area and expect, after the device returns a certain acoustic signal, light and/or visually on the display (depending on the type of detector). At the time of appearance, the operator knows that there is a leak at this particular point. Detectors of more modern models indicate the type of leakage, placing them by levels to find out more accurately what real losses of the system per year.

By checking the pressure in the circuit

In this case, the identification method consists in the fact that the air conditioning circuit is cleaned and filled with nitrogen or gas (consisting of 95% of nitrogen and 5% hydrogen) by about 12 times higher pressure. It takes about 10 minutes to see whether the pressure remains stable or leaks occur. If the pressure does not hold on the same level-this is due to the fact that there is a leak in any place of the chain.

The accurate determination of the leakage place is made by using detectors, electronic or using aerosols that are characteristic of the detection of leaks in various possible damaged areas to identify losses as a result of foam formation.

The equipment for this check consists of a set of valves, to which various hoses and the air conditioner gas station itself are connected, with which vacuum, charging and checking the circuit and working pressure are carried out.

How to fix damaged leaks of air conditioning system in a car

After the leak is detected, you can repair the leaks of the air conditioner in the car in two ways:

Both options can be applied at the same time, which will guarantee a complete correction of the problem, first you need to replace the damaged parts. For this, first of all, the chain should be cleaned. And then the damaged parts are replaced, and the process of vacuuming and charging the refrigerant is carried out.

However, certain products are also sold to fill small leaks. They are sold as an economical solution for these specific cases. To repair the air conditioning leakage in the car using air meters, you must follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Although, in general, it is enough to enter the product into a low-pressure circuit for a frequent, when the air conditioning system is working, and then load the loading gas.

The gearbox leaks

Two options are possible here. If you have an automatic box, a spot of pronounced red and equally bright smell forms that it does not look like anything. The transmission fluid itself has high viscosity, therefore it is absorbed into asphalt or concrete extremely slowly. Finally, make sure that the puddle of oil under the machine leaked out of the box, you can at the location of the puddle. exactly in the middle of the car.

This problem should be promptly eliminated, that is, replaced either by a leaking shaft oil seal, or a gasket on the transmission housing. If this is not done, with the time the programs will begin to slip, and in the end one day you will not be able to budge.

The oil poured into a mechanical checkpoint resembles motor oil in color and consistency, and the spot itself, as in the case of automatic transmission, will be located in the center of the machine.

Gur flows

For the operation of any hydraulic equipment, which is also a steering hydraulic power control, a low.powered liquid is required. In automobile GUR, a liquid has a predominantly yellow tint is used. If it has not changed for a long time, then its color will migrate towards caramel or light red colors. The consistency of the liquid is moderately viscous and fat, the absorpability is good, the smell is practically not felt, in any case, from distant and medium distances.

Typically, the fact that there is little liquid in the gur tank is evidenced by a characteristic screech of a pump pumping fluid through the system, as well as difficulties with turning the steering wheel.

The reason for the occurrence of this defect is usually in the critical wear of the seals located on the steering rack. If you wait with their replacement, the case may end with a complete loss of controllability by the car, so draw the conclusions yourself.

Condensate from the air conditioner flows into the salon

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Newbie

A week ago there was a noise from the central air ducts when turning the steering wheel to the left, as if there a cellophane bag was stuck and water flowed on a passenger rug. Having removed the glove compartment, the salon filter found. Water accumulates and flows into the salon directly from the niche under the electric motor of the heater fan (it is exactly under the salon filter).

one. Tell me where the drainage system could clog and how to clean it?

2. Why does the air conditioner blow more when turning the steering wheel to the left? Both at idle and at speed. For me still a riddle.

Ander

Mastering

He will find a condensate leak under the rug of a passenger from the air conditioner pipe, and it also runs under the car

Own in the board

So this trouble attended me, and even exactly June 1. Just on the day when there was a mega-firing in Krasnodar (well, or a flood. as you like). I had to pretty ride deep water and therefore did not immediately bless the raw floor in the legs of the front passenger (and then the rear right) with this problem. There were thoughts that could somewhere, somehow drove around the city, “sailed” home. Then, when he dried the floor at the front passenger several times with rags, and there was still water after traveling in the heat with the climate turned on, I realized that still draining the condea. Took off the lining of the thresholds, lifted the carpets and began to dry everything. Thanks to the Kuban sun. at dayt 35. 39 in the shade of a car standing with closed windows in the sun, completely dried up in a week. I went to the officials, the displacement of what and how, paid for diagnostics 546 and received the answer that we were repairing it with the complete removal of the torpedo, the price tag would be in the region of 8300, to remain the car for the whole day. Further, having placed the forums, I decided to do it myself. I bought a tourist rug “foam” 8mm thick in Auchan Rails for 200 and a good American sealant of Permatex (silicone) for 310 in the same place.

Indeed, unscrewing 3 nuts of mounting the climate block to the motor shield, we get a gap of 2-3 centimeters. After that, pulling the pallet, I inserted a roulette between him and the motor shield, fixing success:

We cut out the gasket, which we smear abundantly with a sealant from all the planes, also abundantly pushes the sealant into the hole where the drain is inserted, the nose itself, and everything around: everything around:

We put on a cut gasket on a nose, a cut on top, center, blur around the sealant if there was little and it seemed a little and. We pull out the roulette:

Sleeping “chavk” of sealant is heard, it remains to us press the pallet to the motor shield with a hand evenly 3 fixing screws, trying not to distort anything.

When I saw what kind of gap of m/d selection of a nose and a reception with a “funnel” in a motor shield, I decided that there would be two gaskets, but having measured all the “dried” without a sealant, I realized that one would have enough, and the two would not be baked and didn’t get up evenly. The sizes of the gasket are visible in the photo with it, this is a scheme from a blue forum.

h.s. Watering from the drain hose after the procedure was just “buckets”, although maybe I am exaggerating. I used to live in the north, and I used the climate very rarely.

Visual inspection

The refrigerant has no color, and therefore it is impossible to detect a problem without special devices. The driver in this case can only focus on the “symptom”. the device in the car is worse than.

With a visual check of the air conditioner in the car, you need to pay attention not to the Freon’s flow, but the substance is added to the oil, and the substance is added along with the refrigerant (for processing the compressor).

Checking at home

You can check the air conditioner in the car for a leak using special equipment. This is a detector or dye and lamp. At home, you can also study the performance of the system by measuring the pressure in the circuit.

Tools and materials

One of the ways to check the air conditioner in a car for a leak on your own is to pour dye into the tubes and shine on a UV lamp. This is an old and reliable method. Places of leaks must be sought after 5 minutes. After continuous operation of the device.

It is important to observe precautions. to wear protective glasses. The manifested spots shine in green and are clearly visible. However, the method has a drawback. the substance does not determine microcracks that will increase and become a problem.

If it is not possible to check the air conditioner leakage on the car coloring, it is better to buy a detector. A sensitive sensor is built into the device, which allows you to catch the loss of freon up to 2 g. in year. The device must be brought to the zone of possible malfunction, and then wait for the signal on the display. Modern models not only confirm the problem, but also determine the type of leakage.

This method of checking the leak of the air conditioning air conditioner is time.consuming. for the operation, it is necessary to clean the system from freon, and then fill the tubes with nitrogen or gas, creating higher pressure. The driver needs to wait for about 15 minutes., To understand whether changes have arisen. If it falls, then there is a leak on the network. Next, you need to apply the detector to determine the exact problematic place.

A set of diagnostic equipment consists of valves connected to the hoses and the air conditioning system. Having set everything in the right order, you can form a vacuum. then you can check the pressure.

Antifreeze leak: what are the main causes, and how to diagnose the problem

A leak itself is just a symptom of some kind of malfunction. We have already figured out what to do at the time of detection of leaks. Now let’s figure out how to understand what exactly the problem is.

Find out the main possible signs and causes of antifreeze leakage.

A simple at first glance system of coolering the insidious because the engine cools directly, and therefore the leak of the antifreeze can be not only outward, but also in the engine. to the engine. So, we list the main signs that there are problems in the cooling system:

• puddles and wet spots under the car;
• wet floor in the cabin (and oily liquid to the touch, does not resemble water);
• a drop in the level of coolant in an expansion tank;
• poor operation of the salon heater (cold air from the “stove”);
• frequent overheating of the engine, steam from under the cover of the expansion tank;
• The smell of antifreeze in the cabin;
• foam in an expansion tank;
• white smoke from exhaust pipe.

The reasons for the leak, of course, may be several. Let’s go in order, from more obvious to more difficult.

If the car does not boil and does not overheat, the floor of the cabin is dry, and the level of antifreeze is constantly falling, then most likely the reason for this is a banal leak. The main points of the potential leakage that should be checked is:

• expansion tank;
• radiator;
• connecting hoses and directly places of attachment;
• laying of the water pump (pump);
• The thermostat seal.

You may notice that almost all the engineering elements of the cooling system are listed in the list, and this makes the test a few labor costs. The main attention in it should be paid to little things: for example, it is very difficult to notice cracks in an expansion tank. they are very thin and expand only at high temperature and pressure in the cooling system. The situation with hoses is similar.

Radiator defect is a very popular cause of coolant loss: its thin channels are easy to damage with a stone or other solid object that fell into it on the move. The leaks of the thermostat and pump is usually more obvious due to wet spots in the corresponding area. Well, besides, the pump can collapse from old age and wear, but in this case the fluid flow will be such that it will be difficult not to notice.

This is a quite easy problem for diagnosing. If the level of antifreeze falls, and under the feet of a passenger or driver of a puddle of oily liquid, then this is with a huge degree of probability the same antifreeze in the tank.

To make sure of the problem inside the cabin, you can disconnect the heater supplying and dropping pipe under the hood and “loop” them with each other. If the drop in the level of antifreeze stops, the problem is exactly inside: it is either a radiator, or a pipe, or a crane.

This is the most serious, costly and difficult problem in resolution. If the car overheats, foam appears in the expansion tank, there are problems in the heater, and white smoke comes from the exhaust pipe. this is with the high degree of probability of antifreeze leakage to the cylinders. over, not all of the above symptoms may be present in practice. Two more signs of antifreeze leakage into the motor are a white plaque on the spark plugs and a whitish emulsion on the engine oil probe. Among the reasons for the problem are the breakdown of the head of the cylinder head (HBC), the warning of the block head itself, the crack in it or its strong corrosion.

To eliminate such a leak, it will be necessary to remove the GBC and conduct a thorough inspection, as well as checking and, if necessary, grinding on a special stand. The gasket of the HBC is replaced by a new. The most unpleasant possible defect is a crack in the GBC: in this case, most likely, it will require its replacement.

It is worth noting: sometimes the reason for the “boiling” of the car is the problem with the lid of the expansion tank. It has a special valve designed to compensate for pressure fluctuations in the system. and if it is faulty, the operation of the cooling system is violated. Therefore, if the machine “boils”, the solution to the problem should start with checking and replacing the lid of the expansion tank.

Another potential reason for overheating is the refusal of the thermostat. If its valve “sticks” in a closed position, then the liquid does not circulate through the radiator and does not cool. Therefore, if the temperature of the coolant has grown to critical, shake the radiator.diving and diverting. if they are cold, the problem is in the thermostat.

What and where can it be from the car and how it is dangerous

A sudden puddle or a large spot under the car is an occasion to think that it could be. Indeed, in the units of the car there are a dozen operational fluids that may be outside. And if you are not completely sure that the spot does not remain from the car previously parked in the same place, then it is worth classifying the type of liquid by type and smell, as well as if possible to determine the source of the leak. Let’s figure out how to do it without trying a puddle to taste.

The oil leakage from the engine lubrication system is a fairly common phenomenon, therefore, in many parking lots, asphalt is literally dotted with characteristic oily spots. It is quite simple to identify the oil leak: a small and thick fat spot cannot be confused with water and even antifreeze. Under the hood, the problem usually gives itself out either with fresh marks of the oil, if the leak is fresh or strong, or, conversely, with growths of dirt covered with oil, if the engine loses oil for a long time and drops drops. As a rule, the oil flows from the motor due to the leature of the crankshaft seals, as well as the pallet. However, these are only the most common options: you need to inspect the entire engine, and if the traces of the oil on the protection of the crankcase are fresh and the leaks are not visible, it is better to inspect the car on the lift.

If the puddle is large, then you need to carefully inspect the crankcase. it is possible that it was broken on the road. In any case, you need to check the oil level, as well as visually inspect the motor. Driving with a low level on the probe is more expensive, because many motor details may experience oil fasting.

If the emergency pressure lamp burns or even blinks, it is definitely not worth moving further: low oil pressure means its critically low level that can finish off the motor for several kilometers. In such a situation, you need to immediately jam the car and continue to transport it already on the evacuation cuer. But even in the case when the level is normal, it is not worth delaying the repair, because due to the “strangled” crankshaft oil seals, the oil can get to the drive belts or the clutch disc, and this will lead to completely different problems.

It is not easy to distinguish motor oil from the transmission, but some features are still. The transmission oil is usually noticeably thicker and remains bright even a long time after replacement, but the engine darkens over time. Another way to distinguish the type of oil is to drop it into water: motor oil will remain there in the form of a drop-linze drop, and the transmission will begin to spread. Well, to understand where the oil comes from, an attentive examination of the gearbox from below will help. An oxidated case. an occasion to immediately check the oil level if the probe is provided constructively.

Although in Soviet times, some lucky ones managed to get to the garage almost on a “dry” box, turning on the fourth (direct) transmission, modern practice knows many cases when, it would seem, an unpretentious mechanic prematurely fail due to the owner I drove several thousand with a reduced level of oil, which the gears really do not like. especially those that are located in the unit above all.

For automatic transmission, the oil level is even more critical, so setting off with such a leak is to literally bear the verdict to the machine gun. It is possible to determine that it was the automatic transmission that flowed precisely in the case of mechanics, according to the characteristic color of the oil, which usually varies in the range from red to burgundy-brown.

Explicit oils of oil from the “handout”, the center differential or gearbox of the rear axle indicate the leature of the oil seals or damage to the housing. The “dry” gearbox usually quickly begins to buzz and howl, and in the worst situation it can jam right on the go.

In an engine with liquid cooling, antifreeze plays an important role, and the system itself should remain a sealed. However, due to high temperatures, its individual elements can lose tightness, which is especially characteristic of old cars. About what the main causes of the leakage of the antifreeze, we talked in detail, and now we recall once again. Bend your fingers: the culprits may turn out to be the leaked radiators (the main and the heater of the cabin), the drunk thermostat (engine or automatic transmission), the burst of the expansion tank, the incorrectly working cover of the expansion tank, cracked pipes and hoses, the main or additional water pumps and even the cylinder block itself!

Experienced drivers can recognize antifreeze, having tasted a suspicious stain, since ethylene glycol, which is the basis of almost any antifreeze, has a sweet taste. However, we will not advise you to engage in such organoleptic: let ethylene glycol and moderately toxic substance, and for poisoning you need to make a couple of sips, but in each case it is not known what other impurities can be in the spot on the asphalt. It is better to try the liquid to the touch: the antifreeze is slightly oily. So if the spot is not purely oil, and also has color (greenish, reddish, yellowish and so on. there are many dyes) and fatty to the touch, with a high degree of probability it is antifreeze.

If the antifreeze flow is strong, then you can get to the house or place of repair, just adding water to the system. However, this is quite risky, since it will be necessary to constantly monitor the level of antifreeze and the temperature of the coolant in the system. If the level of coolant when the engine operates falls below the minimum, the motor may overheat. The likelihood of “boil” the engine in the heat and in traffic jams is especially high, so if you flow strong, and in the yard is summer and ahead of a few kilometers, it is better to immediately call the tow truck.

The most dangerous leak is the loss of brake fluid. If it is already on the asphalt, then this usually means that the machine does not literally have brakes, because the volume of the brake system, unlike lubrication or cooling systems, is very small. no more than a liter. As a rule, even a small leak of brake fluid leads to the refusal of one of the contours or the complete failure of the brake system out of order, because at the same time it is immediately dubbed. It is bad that it is not always easy to notice the place of leaks. for example, the rear brake cylinders are inside the drums, and on the outside they are covered with shields. A true and poor sign of brake fluid leakage. traces of the liquid on the inner surface of the wheel.

What can flow from the car and what it threatens

Water flows. this is normal. But only if the air conditioner is installed and works in the car. After all, the condo. The same refrigerator, which means that somewhere inside there is a piece of iron, which cools to low temperature, which is why moisture settles from the air on it. So she flows on the road under the bottom. If the car stands in one place with working motor and air conditioning, you will immediately see it. Sometimes condensate flows from the exhaust pipe, this is the same “dew”, do not be alarmed.

With an unemployed air conditioning, no water streams should be under the machine, but you drove along a puddle, and when the car stops (possibly on the slope), this water leaked out of some cavity.

Overheating of the motor. Another summer problem. Even in quite “healthy” and young cars, this happens if the radiator is clogged with road dust, fluff and insects. In old machines, the cooling system is clogged, a poorly working motor is warming faster, and it also dusts with heat if the coolant flows out. From the radiator itself, from hoses. There are many breakdowns. The result is one. overheating of the engine, because of which the motor can even jam.

Most often, coolant leaks are visible if you look under the car in front. Usually greenish fluid in color is greenish or pinkish. The level of antifreeze can be checked by the contents of the expansion tank under the hood.

precisely, gasoline if he decided to leak. After all, the tank is usually behind, and the motor. in front, between them. gas pipeline, at any of the stages during breakdown, leaks are possible. And this is a real trouble, because gasoline from a spark may light up. If a liquid with the smell of gasoline is under the machine, it is better not to start the engine, and the leak needs to be urgently eliminated.

The second is equally alarming bell. The flow of brake fluid. Stocks are not necessarily near the wheels, because the brake tank is under the hood, and from there it is distributed through the tubes laid along the bottom. The brake fluid is light, but oily, viscous, it necessarily smells of something with technical or some kind of chemistry. You can confirm your fears about leakage of brake fluid by looking under the hood. Its level in a tank with the inscription “Brakefluid” should not be lower than the control mark. With faulty brakes, as you know, it is forbidden to ride and is very dangerous.

The rest of the technical water that may be under the machine, you will not be confused with water. Motor oil is likely to be black, transmission from the “automatic”. red, washer for glass. What they flooded. But the principle is always the same: you see a puddle under the car, but doubt its origin. Inspect the car. The source of the leak is usually wet too.

It is clear that I don’t want to get up even on one knee, and does not pull my hands to get my hands. But you need to think about the possible consequences and stock up on simple things: a microfiber rag, gloves, wet wipes.

Under the knee, you can put a rug from the cabin, and highlight yourself with mobile. And we wish you not to find anything under the car except water from the air conditioner.

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