Smart house control of the heating boiler
Smart House Livicom allows you to configure remote control of a heating boiler and control the operation of the heating system through a smartphone.
Many owners of country houses are faced with the need to remove an electric or gas boiler and control its work. This is due to the fact that it is not always possible to come a suburb, personally check the operation of the heating system or change the temperature that must be maintained in the room.
Timely receipt of information about the problems of equipment will allow you to eliminate the consequences of the accident as soon as possible or completely avoid it. And the remote change in the temperature regime of the boiler will help save on heating a country house.
The hub transfers commands to all connected devices, collects data from them and sends the collected information collected to the owner of the object to the mobile application.
To measure the temperature, LIVI TS thermal attires and wired thermosensors are used, for example, Mirage-TD-01. One Livi TS sensor is installed in the room where you need to control the temperature. It can be a living room, a nursery, a bedroom or another room. If you want to measure the temperature in several rooms, add additional LIVI TS sensors and, if necessary, wired sensors.
The second LIVI TS sensor is installed in the boiler room; Two mirage-TD-01 thermosenora connected to it are fixed on the boiler feed and reverse pipes.
This location of temperature sensors helps to detect the problem with boiler equipment in time. For example, if the temperature on the supply or return pipe fell below the set value, then this may indicate an accident of the boiler.
In addition, indications from thermal attires help adjust the temperature in the room: you can set a higher heating temperature or reduce it depending on the desired air temperature.
The current temperature from all connected sensors can be viewed on the main screen of the Livicom application through “widgets”.
To control the boiler and to maintain temperature in the room at a given level, the LIVI RELAY 12/24 relay “Dry Contact” is used. It connects to the boiler through the input for the external indoor thermostat.
In the relay card, turn on the “thermostat” mode, indicate the temperature that you need to maintain, and select the temperature attentor installed in the room, which will register the temperature and transmit information to the hub.
After receiving the temperature data, the hub will transmit the relay command, which is connected to the boiler. The boiler will operate under the control of the relay, automatically maintaining the given temperature.
In the relay card, you can indicate a new temperature at any time. For example, set 15 degrees before going to work. Due to the high inertia of the heating system, the air in the room will not have time to cool to an uncomfortable value in a few hours of your absence, and you will significantly save on heating.
What to do if your heat doesn’t work
To control the pressure, any threshold sensor of water pressure of a third.party manufacturer with two disturbing outputs of the type “dry contact” is used. The pressure sensor is connected to the LIVICOM system using the universal LIVI US sensor. One output of the sensor monitors the upper level of pressure, the second. the lower level. Upon reaching the upper or lower level, the corresponding output “dry contact” is triggered and a signal is transmitted about the excess or reduction of pressure.
The pressure sensor is installed on the supplier of the boiler and compares the current pressure value in the circuit with a predetermined.
If the pressure drops below the settings, then this may indicate interruptions in water supply, about the leak of the pipe, about the breakdown of the pump or about turning off the electricity. If the pressure has increased, then perhaps the pipeline was blockage. In any case, it is important as soon as possible to find out that the pressure deviated from a given value in order to adjust the operation of the heating system.
In the LIVICOM mobile application, indicate the type of “emergency” for both inputs of LIVI US, to which the pressure sensor is connected. When falling or increasing the pressure in the heating circuit, the owner of the house will receive an alarming notification about this on a smartphone.
To find out about the breakthrough of the pipeline in time, add LIVI LS leaks sensor to the system with two remote sensors. Sensors are placed in places of the most likely accumulation of water, for example, at the zero point of the boiler room, where water flows when leak. If a household accident occurs, the owner of the house will receive a notification on a smartphone.
GSM control of the boiler
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GSM heating controllers
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Remote control of heating
So that the Smart Heating system works accurately and effectively extremely important to correctly implement distance management. Small distances use special remotes and radio communications, with which you can configure heating, being directly in the room or nearby
How to organize heating control over long distances?
A newcomer such a system may seem very difficult, but in reality everything is quite simple and cheap. So, remote control of heating electrical appliances (convectors, IR heaters, etc.D.) It is implemented using the following components:
The GSM block is necessary to receive commands from the user via a SIM card, which is subsequently installed. The owner of the house from his mobile phone sends an SMS message, which indicates the command to turn on/disconnect, information request or other setting. The module itself, having collected information from another equipment (sensor), can send it to the user.
A relay expander is required to turn on/disconnect the heating electrical appliance, after receiving commands from the GSM module, which comes from the user. Some models of relay blocks allow you to connect several devices at once. There are solutions with a built.in Bluetooth integrated, which allows you to control heating from the smartphone on which the application is installed.
Sensors are necessary to control the current temperature. They are connected to the GSM device, transmitting data. In the case of a sharp change in temperature, information will receive information on the phone, and the owner will be able to choose further actions. The cost of temperature sensors is low, and many models have additional functions, such as moisture measurement.
A set of components from the relay, GSM module and temperature sensor, as a rule, is enough to organize simple remote control of electrical appliances. Everything is tied here on electricity, in the case of disconnecting which the user will be notified.
Heating system controller for smart home | Esphome, Home-Ssistant
One of the most difficult for me to raise many questions about the implementation was to adjust the temperature of heating radiators.
About 7 years ago, I installed Danfoss thermogol with Z-Wave on one of the radiators. And in a couple of months of use, I never managed to cope with her. The main factors who played against was that the temperature was measured directly near the radiator and was very different from the entire room. As well as the speed of the thermogram reaction to a change in the settings from the controller was an unacceptable low.
A little later, I tried another similar device from Stella Z, but the problem with temperature measurement directly near the heating device has not gone anywhere.
Yes, of course, there are thermogols from the same Danfoss with a remote thermal attach, but it looks pretty terrible. In addition, the question remained open how to make friends such a device with a smart home.
After some time, Fibaro introduced their thermogram with a separate wireless temperature sensor. And it already looked more interesting than previous options. Unfortunately, this device has passed me by.
I returned to this topic again when manual temperature adjustment in the house began to deliver a lot of inconvenience, because I had to twist uncomfortable valves on the valves of radiators. At first, of course, I remembered Fibaro, but the cost of the whole event would have come out very unpleasant. And how normally it is to use it here, I did not know:
In search of a solution that could be adjusted to my radiators, I came across thermal drives for heating collectors. And then I dawned on me. Why try to regulate something at the end points when you can do it centrally on the collector.
Specifically such drives have only two provisions: openly or closed.
By the way, if desired, they can still be used on radiators if a thermostatic valve with M30x1 threads is installed on it.5.
The connection scheme was the simplest. All thermal drives are normally closed. When the ESP module gives a signal to a solid.state relay, the thermal drive opens. Takes it for several minutes.
In the collected form, the controller along with the power supply is placed in some standard rewinding box.
I decided not to bother with the installation of wall thermostats, because all manual control is carried out from the phone or computer.
In each room where there is a radiator, I installed a temperature sensor from AQARA, placing them in places where the most frequent presence of people is supposed.
ESPhome firmware module code is also extremely simple.
Each conclusion is described, which is connected to the relay (Platform: GPIO). If the thermal drive was normally open, then the Inverted parameter would have the value of Yes. Optionally, the temperature sensor DS18B20 (Platform: Dallas) is attached to the collector.
Building My Own Smart Central Heating Control System with a Sonoff TH16
Esphome: Name: ESP16_HEATING_CONTROL_UNIT_1 Platform: ESP8266 Board: D1_Mini Wi-Fi: SSID: !Secret WiFi_ssid Password: !Secret wifi_password Fast_Connect: True Domain: !Secret WiFi_Domain Manual_ip: Static_ip: 172.sixteen.one.116 Subnet: 255.255.255.0 Gateway: 172.sixteen.one.1 DNS1: 172.sixteen.one.1 logger: API: OTA: Dallas:. PIN: 2 Sensor:. Platform: Dallas Address: 0xb1031635D6C6C6FF29 NAME: “1 Heating Flow Temperature” Switch:. Platform: GPIO NAME: “Office Heater” Icon: “MDI: Radiator” PIN: 16 # Normal Closed Inverted: No: No. Platform: GPIO NAME: “Pantry Heater” Icon: “MDI: Radiator” PIN: 14 # Normal Closed Inverted: No: No. Platform: GPIO NAME: “Livingroom Heater” Icon: “MDI: Radiator” PIN: 13 # Normal Closed Inverted: No. Platform: GPIO NAME: “Kitchen Heater” icon: “MDI: Radiator” PIN: 12 # Normal Closed Inverted: No
After connecting the ESP module to Home Assistant, the integrators that control thermal drives appear in the integration. But in themselves they have no particular benefit.
Surprisingly, the thermostat implemented by the basic integration of Home Assistant has all the necessary functionality. Otherwise I was first going to build the logic of control on my own. Everything is simple here too.
- The heat drive controller (Heater);
- The temperature sensor along which the thermostat will navigate (target_sensor);
- The thermostat adjustment range (min_temp, max_temp);
- hysteresis (cold_tolence, hot_tolence);
- initial state (initial_hvac_mode);
- Precision management accuracy (Precision).
About the initial state. After rebooting, all thermostats are turned off by default. There is a separate automation that, when the Home Assistant is launched, is checking whether the season is currently heating to enable all thermostats. The check is based on the state of the virtual switch, which depends on the average daily temperature collected using the built.in statistics module.
A little automation
They figured out the radiators. Now they turn on and turn off themselves, providing a comfortable temperature of the house. It remains to automate the boiler room.
The following equipment had to be controlled:
- Boiler. control it with heating, as well as turn on or off the heated towel rail.
- Radiators. Manage the heat carrier supply pump to the radiator collector and then to the warm floor collector.
- Warm floor. control the pumping pump of a warm floor collector.
I connected a complete temperature sensor to it and lowered it to the regular place of the installation in the boiler. As a load, I connected a pump to it, which provides circulation of water from the hydraulic rifle on the coil of the boiler. T.e. When the water in the boiler is fushing. the pump turns on, and hot water from the boiler heats water in the boiler. Parallel to the power of thermallele connected the pump recirculation pump. And all this good put on Zigbee a Xiaomi socket.
Yes, yes, finally I go to the profile theme of Sprut.AI. In 2018, I did not know about HA and other home automation systems, but I already had experience with the equipment of the company that produces TOP for its money ”. Having bought a zigbee gateway and several outlets, I decided to remotely control the boiler room.
With a boiler more or less figured out. Through the Mihome application, I turned on the scheduler and a heated towel rail in the afternoon and turned it off at night. Also, by means of zigbee outlets, I established control of the main pump and a warm floor pump.
It remains to automate the control of the boiler. Just hang a boiler on a smart outlet, of course, did not dare. I think the boiler would not have lasted so long.
I used the contacts of the boiler that are designed to connect a room thermostat.
The control scheme is extremely simple. We pull out a jumper. The boiler “gently” turns off. Put a jumper. The boiler turns on. Soft. This means the entire control system remains under voltage, the burner turns off, then, after some time, the boiler pump turns off and the boiler goes into waiting mode.
To control this jumper, I bought a regular modular contactor with a 220V coil. The reel terminals were recorded from Zigbee outlets, and received control of the boiler via Mihome.
I don’t know how it is now, but 4 years ago, Chinese servers were not particularly responsive, and it was not really possible to quickly manage sockets through their native application. Reading various forums, I decided to switch to a local smart home management system. The system was based on Raspberry Pi3b and Home Assistant. It became much more fun, especially when I ordered a stick V3 over time.
Indoor thermostats with bad displays decided to change the version from Moes to Zigbee. They now, in addition to remote control, provide good bonds with the final zigbee device in the farthest corners of the apartment, as they are routers.
During the operation of the DHW system in winter, began to notice that with long water procedures, the water could sharply go cold. Cause. banal. Cold water supply to the boiler is made from below, hot water fence. above. The thermal attemptor from the boiler is also installed in the upper part. As a result, at some point, cold water fills the boiler from below, and the sensor reacts to this late, and the boiler no longer has time to quickly heat a large amount of cold water. This problem could be solved in different ways, but since there is a Ha and zigbee network, the choice was obvious. A finalized soil moisture sensor was ordered.
The essence of the improvement was that the temperature sensor and USB cable was soldered to the soil moisture sensor to provide power supply from the network. A special firmware was also flooded, which allowed to measure the temperature in large limits.
The sensor was installed in the second regular place, which is located at the bottom of the boiler.
Since my boiler (Thermex Er 120V) has a built.in heating element with a capacity of 2 kW, it was decided to register it from Zigbee 6A from Tuya.
But there is a nuance. I placed the order for 2 outlets from one seller. So it was and the price is more interesting, well, the extra outlet is never superfluous. 2 absolutely outwardly identical 2 outlets came, but one was with full.fledged energy monitoring, and the second. Without that. They flew into Z2M like this:
In general, on the one that with the energy monitoring, I hung the heater of the boiler and organized automation as follows: when the temperature decreases at the lower part of the boiler, the heater is turned on and the main pump of the boiler room is turned off (if it is turned on). Thus, the boiler begins to work only on a boiler, and Ten tries to help him as much as he could help.
I called the article “The look of the amateur” for a reason. I. A person is very far from programming and IT. Therefore, Node-Red turned out to be a real salvation for me. The boiler room management algorithms look as follows:
As a result, everything that I wrote in the article looks as follows:
In the photo of the boiler room, you can see 3 modular contactors. They are controlled by the same zigbee mentioned above. Scheme to draw laziness, but their presence is displayed by the control of the boiler room to a qualitatively new level. One of them controls the work of the boiler. The second forcibly launches the boiler “loading” pump when the boiler is turned on, even if the thermorele does not see the need for this (a sharp decrease in the temperature at the bottom of the boiler). The third contactor controls the boiler launch contactor when only a boiler works. T.e. If a zigbee socket that controls the boiler. turned off, but a boiler is turned on, the boiler will still work.
Another small moment that also belongs to the scenario of the boiler room control. At the exit from the apartment, I have a “master switch”, which controls the contactor, who, in turn, controls the coverage of the entire apartment. It is convenient to extinguish all the light when exiting. This contactor has 2 contact groups. On the second, unused group, I hung contact the signal of the leakage of the pulse counter. The Impulsi counter was also acquired. It turns out that if the master switch is turned off, then there are no people at home, then you can turn off the boiler, and something else.
Principle of operation
Remote heating control makes various modes of work possible, among which:
- General. supports the given temperature throughout the house;
- zonal. it is possible to install different temperature conditions in each of the premises;
- temporary. the ability to change temperature at different times of the day.
The benefits of the distance control of the climate in the home are noticeable ::
- You return home from a business trip or vacation, during all this time there was no one in the house. On the way, you send a text message, send a signal about the need to launch heating. By your arrival, the microclimate in all rooms will be as comfortable and pleasant as possible.
- You install a heating device on an economical mode that excludes the freezing of the coolant in the pipes, and leave. Suddenly, a failure occurs, the coolant is rapidly cooling, the module fixes the accident, sends you a message. You, in turn, send a response team to restart the boiler. If this measure did not bring results, you should call the emergency service.
- Want to know the current situation in the house, send the appropriate team. The response contains information about the air temperature in controlled rooms, humidity level, and the current temperature of the system coolant.
- There was a dangerous situation with a gas boiler: the contour of the fuel supply was depressurized, there is a high concentration of the composition. The response system is transferred to a reserve source of energy, the problem is eliminated by specialized services.
Remote control of the heating of the house. House Wi-Fi Thermostat.
Hey.I want to tell how I automated a little control of the gas heating gas boiler using an indoor Wi-Fi thermostat with Ali. Remote control for me was necessary, t.to. The apartment is empty in winter. The thermostat also saves gas, electricity, and extends the life of the boiler.
I’ll start with the theory, all the new and almost all old (years old 10-15) boilers support (at least primitive) control through external (indoor) thermostat. Management can be of two types:
one.Primitive, stupidly vicious / off (Dry Contacts), but the thermostat itself can be both primitive (mechanical based on bimetallic contact, the same principle in a household electrical tectter) and smart, with software control (based on microcontroller ), with or without Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Zigbee, with sensory color screen or mechanical buttons, with a built-in relay in one case (vast majority) or relay with a separate unit (allows you to install the thermostat away from the boiler, on the other floor \ in another room. the relay can be wireless), in any case, it controls the boiler only with turning on / turning off through the relay and all.
Digital (OpenTherm) This is the coolest control, it allows you to transfer the boiler control to a fully room thermostat (of course, the indoor thermostat should also support the OpenTherm and be able to control this boiler). In this case, the OpenTherm thermostat itself gives the boiler commands to turn on the burner (with the desired level of modulation, if the boiler supports), the pump, set the temperature, etc.P, and all signals are transmitted by changing the levels of current / voltage (and not stupidly closing contacts as in the first version). This is a better option for enthusiasts implementing a “smart home”.
The installation of a second.type thermostat (OpenTherm) has not become widespread among the people, such thermostats are expensive (almost at the boiler at the boiler), they are not advertised openly, not all boilers, few budget boilers support this protocol (although recently they begin to support, and recently begin to support, and this is good). That is, this is an option for enthusiasts or those who are ready to pay an integrator. For elite Smart-boles, such thermostats can go as additional. accessory. Also, both types of thermostat can be assembled with your own hands, there are a lot of finished projects on the internet (knowledge of electronic technology is required). At the end of the article I will leave a link to foreign thermostats of the second type
Next will be about the first type.How the thermostat works: the thermostat turns on in return for the jumper (in the rupture of the chain) on the thermostat you set the desired temperature in the apartment, the thermostat compares the current temperature of the room (the thermoresistor is built in it), and if the current temperature is below 1C set by you (this difference is called hysteresis, often It is equal to 0.5 or 1 degrees, and often it can be changed), the thermostat closes the contacts, and the boiler begins to work as usual (as without a thermostat), at the same installed temperature of the coolant, with the same failure of the pump, etc.P. If the temperature of the room is equal to the set temperature, the thermostat will open the contact and the boiler will turn off. And will stand turned off until the temperature drops below 1 degrees (hysteresis).Therefore, if in winter a too weak temperature in the cauldron is set in the boiler, then the room may not heat up to the installed one at all, and the thermostat will never turn off the boiler itself, and in fact, the thermostat is useless.T.e, the temperature in the boiler should be set higher (determined by experimentally, heat the apartment by 70 ° C of the coolant sharply. more economical than 40 ° C.
Weather dependent automation. Some boilers support such functionality. Its essence is that on the street you install a street temperature sensor (termistor), connect to the boiler and turn it on in the settings for the required number curve. The number of the curve is different for each region (depending on the minimum street temperature in winter, on the heat of loss), the table with this curve is in the documentation for the boiler, but it is embedded, you will have to select a poke method.How this sensor changes the logic of the boiler?Suppose, in a boiler without a thermostat, you yourself are constantly changing the temperature of the coolant, it is hot. reduced, coldly. added, and so every day. With a thermal attitude, the ability to control the temperature of the boiler is disconnected. The boiler itself puts the temperature of the coolant depending on the street temperature (it has become colder. it increases, it has become warm. it lowers, but how much to increase / lower you just set the curve with a curve method).
This Off sensor. The manufacturer is unreasonably expensive (1000. 2000), you can make it yourself at 100 (so much the termistor NTC in stores of electronic components costs, Ali is generally 40 rubles \ 10 pcs.). Basically used a thermal attemptor. a termistor with the NTC 10K parameter 1% 3950.I did it with my own hands, it turned out like this:
Do you need a street thermostat when installing a thermostat? It is not necessary, if there is a thermostat, then it will not bring any savings, but you can bring comfort (for example, in warm weather the radiators will not heat up to high temperatures, the inertia of the boiler will decrease, you will not need to adjust the autumn / winter / spring different temperatures.). But if possible, put.
What I put: I have a Baxi Eco Nova boiler, it supports both types of thermostat. I put the first type.I bought this option on Ali
Smart house control of the heating boiler
The drive controls the supply of hot water to the heating circuit. Since the room (especially warm floor) is quite inert in terms of heating in the system, frequent inclusion and disconnecting of heating do not lead to noticeable temperature fluctuations.
As a control module, you can use the relay output of any Larnitech module, including both the DIN modules and modules for installation in the socket. The main heating control module is DW-HC10.B.
In the module 10 relay outputs for connecting heating drives, the current of each exit should not exceed 0.5 amperes, that is, 110 watts. The relay works quietly (this is important when the shield is located near the living rooms where the clicks of the switching should not be heard) and are designed for a large number of inclusion cycles for several years of operation. The current consumption of the drive to the radiator or collector of the warm floor does not exceed 250m. Up to 12 temperature sensors of the type 1-Wire can be connected to the module, each sensor is connected by a separate wire (the train is not allowed).
You can also use the BW-LC02 module. A 1-Wire sensor is connected to it, two controlled devices with a current consumed up to 2 amperes (440 watts) or up to 6 any elements with a discrete output (switches, motion or opening sensors).
Also, this module (or the inputs of the BW-SW06 inputs) can be used as a gateway for a floor temperature sensor if the distance to the shield is too large to use the 1-Wire protocol. The module is installed in the socket at the floor, from it in the tube is lowered to the floor of the FW-FT sensor. The cable is mounted from the module before the control of the warm floor.
Also, temperature sensors can be connected to the inputs of the controller Metaforsa MF-14 and MF-10. 4 sensors of temperature are included with the controller, it is possible to connect 8 sensors. Thus, the Metaforsa controller can control 8 heating zones.
The heating controller may be a 7-channel dw-ht07 expansion module. It has 7 relay, 12 inputs of discrete type and 8 inputs for connecting temperature sensors 1-Wire
When installing cables for 1-Wire sensors, you should remember that the 1-Wire tire is extremely sensitive to the tip. Sensors should be connected by a shielded twisted pair (5th or 6th category with ground ground), observing the distance to power cables of at least 100mm and the total length of the cable from the controller to the sensor up to 30m.
To Metaforsa and DW-HT07 controllers, temperature sensors 1-Wire can be connected by a train, that is, in parallel, all temperature sensors on one cable (without branches from the overall tire). To the modules BW-LC02, DW-HC08 and DW-HC10, it is possible only to connect one 1-Wire sensor to one connectors, that is, each sensor is connected by a separate cable to the module.
The control of an electric heater of any type (radiator, convector, IR heater, warm ceiling) is supplied to the heating device of the power voltage through the relay (usually the relay is in electrical panel).
The principle of management is the same. Turning on and off the electrical appliance to maintain a given temperature.
Electric heaters differ from water heating drives with a large power consumption, as a rule, at least 500 watts. Therefore, connect the heaters directly to the outputs of the modules BW-LC02 or BW-HC10.B is impossible. To connect electric heaters and electric warm floors, it is necessary to use power relay with a coil of 230 volts or contactors suitable for the power of the controlled device. You can also connect heaters with a capacity of not more than 3,500 watts on the relay outputs of the DW-LC07 modules.B, DW-LC10.B and DW-LC18.B.
Directly to the output of the BW-LC02 module, you can connect an electric warm floor with a capacity of up to 440 watts, this is from 2 to 3 square meters depending on the power of the warm floor. It is permissible to install a small additional relay in the socket, but it is advisable to use the socket adjacent to the BW-LC02 so that the relay does not overheat and does not affect the operation of the floor temperature sensor.
When connecting convectors with an active air exchange (that is, with fans), to control the speed of rotation, we use a relay, in the system tied as type of relay Fancoil.
There are two ways to manage air conditioners: through IR transmitter and through the gateway on the Modbus protocol.
To control the IR transmitter, it requires that the air conditioner has an infrared receiver, for the wall blocks of the air conditioner this is not a problem, in the case of the subfoline blocks (channel or cassette), the IR receiver may not be. It will be necessary to purchase it separately, or as a control method use Modbus.
This video shows the Daikin air conditioning management using IR commands that transmit the CW-Mli sensor. IR DAIKIN command is thus included in the Larnitech system that the control of the Codician from the application completely repeats the control from the standard remote control.
The system is trained in management commands from a complete remote control of the air conditioner or, if the air conditioner is in the Larnitech database, it is enough to just select the right model in the settings integral. To train management commands require an IR receiver, it is on the body of the De-MG controller and is absent on Metaforsa. If it is necessary to configure the remote control and use the Metaforsa controller, you can temporarily take DE-MG from the representative of the Larnitech for training the system, and then turn it off from the system.
Beautiful and convenient
The lazy bed is a completely new approach to caring for the garden, which will allow seedlings to grow on their own and will give several times more crop. It is based on a rule that states that it is impossible to dig and weed the ground, except for its preparation and the landing itself. Even if with constant weeding, you can remove weeds and flush the ground, sooner or later it will dry out and will not be able to give sufficient moisture for crops.
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