What we will need. tools and materials
Before you start your own production of sauna stove from a pipe on 530, you should prepare a place for work and stock up on the necessary tools:
- welding machine;
- angle grinder with different attachments;
- an electric drill;
- Locksmith tools;
- door handles;
- mortise valve;
- asbestos cord.
In addition to tools, you will need the following material:
- Thick-walled metal pipe for the furnace and water tank, with a diameter of 500 to 650 mm and a wall thickness of 8 to 16 mm and a length of 1.2 to 1.5 m. Also a pipe through which the carbon monoxide will exit, its diameter is 120. 150, and the wall thickness is 2. 4 mm.
- Steel tube, where the lining of stones will be carried out. Its walls are 5 to 8 mm thick, and 350 in diameter.
- Sheet metal, size 600 by 800 mm, having a thickness of 8. 12.
- hinged steel hinges.
- Water pipe. a piece of small size, suitable diameter ½ or ¾ inch, length 50. 80 mm, and a ball valve with a similar thread.
- Metal reinforcing bars. 500 mm, diameter 12. 18.
Ways of making an iron sauna stove with your own hands
- With three compartments and a vertical boiler;
- With a horizontal furnace, mounted in the steam room;
- with the sauna heater and the firebox door installed in the anteroom;
- having the shape of a boot, with a heater, mounted in the chimney, stainless water tank;
- A device lined with fireclay bricks on the inside and red bricks on the outside.
And cladding with heat-resistant facing bricks is needed to maintain the temperature in the steam room at 70 degrees. In this case, the walls of the structure are not heated significantly. Due to the high temperature heats the filler of the heater. The chimney also keeps a considerable temperature, which makes the construction very flammable. It is possible to reduce the danger by installing a heater or a water tank around the chimney.
You can encase the unit from the outside, but quickly enough the iron walls will burn. To significantly increase the service life of the structure, it is necessary to take enough thick iron to produce the desired structure, or to carry out the facing of the installation so that between the base and the brick there was sufficient free space.
harm to human health, preventing burns of the skin, minimizing the possibility of ignition of wooden structures, the furnace structure in the bath on three sides are lined with fireproof bricks or equip the frame of a thin alloy steel. Openings made in the frame help to improve air exchange.
Positive and negative qualities of the heating units installed in the bath
Ease of installation work and small costs are important components for anyone who has decided to make The stove for the bath with his own hands of the of iron. Ability to correctly read Blueprints you need. Failure to follow the technological process, poor quality of materials used, improper or irrational use of the bath structure can contribute to a hotbed of fire.
The main list of materials and auxiliary tools that will be needed to create a stove in the bath with their own hands
If you have decided that you need to build a stove for the bath with their own hands from metal, then first it is necessary to make a drawing of the stove. Where the configuration and parameters of the structure, as well as its components will be defined. over, the drawing of the stove can be drawn as yourself, or find the necessary version on the Internet.
- Iron sheet thickness of 2 or 3 millimeters.
- A pipe 100 to 150 millimeters in diameter.
- Wheel disks in quantity of 4 pieces.
- Iron fittings 8 or 10 mm in diameter (can be replaced by a metal bar).
It should be taken into account that the warm air flow is drawn by the discharged cold flow. And the warm air rises from the bottom up. Traction is affected by weather conditions: in the summertime, due to the warm and humid air, the traction is less. In winter, when it is frosty outside, the pull is stronger. The diameter of the pipe also affects the traction force. With a small diameter pipe, the warm air will rub against its walls, which will lead to a significant braking and inability to promptly escape from the chimney. The result can be the creation of a smoke plug, leading to smoke in the room itself.
ПРОСТАЯ ПЕЧЬ ДЛЯ БАНИ. SIMPLE STOVE FOR BATH. Pechnik Tv.
Experts recommend, before the construction in the bath iron furnace structure, it is necessary to study the principles of pressure, draft, decide on the diameter of the chimney and furnace. A chimney that is too wide will slow down the exit of gas and smoke to the outside, which will cause it to become clogged and need to be cleaned constantly. Optimal speed of smoke coming out of the chimney. from 5 to 8 m/sec.
We build a foundation for a metal sauna stove with our own hands
If materials and tools are available, you can proceed to the construction of the structure. First it is necessary to mount the foundation, on which the structure is subsequently installed. Despite the low weight and small size, arrangement of the foundation is a prerequisite for the safe location of such an installation in the steam room. It should be borne in mind that the weight of the new unit will be about 8 tons, and after some time, after drying, its weight will decrease by half.
- The strength and porosity of the soil;
- ground freezing depth;
- the depth of the foundation of the steam room itself;
- The presence of groundwater and the depth of their occurrence;
- At what stage of construction is the bath itself.
If the soil is sandy or dry, it is worth deepening the foundation by 0.8m. With friable soils, it is worth doing a deepening below the level of soil freezing (usually 1.5 m deep).
When installing for the stove in the bath of any kind, even if it is made using ultralight thin steel, you need a base. The foundation must necessarily be flat, so that the structure will not be skewed.
- First of all it is necessary to dig a foundation pit, to fill in the bottom with crushed stone and to properly compact it;
- on top of tamped crushed stone filled cement mortar, consisting of sand (4 parts), cement (1 part), water to obtain average consistency. Leave it to harden for 24 hours. The so-called sole is formed;
- To strengthen the waterproofing on the completely cured cement mortar, pieces of ruberoid are placed;
- after the excavation is filled with a concrete solution consisting of gravel of a small fraction (4 parts), cement (1 part), sand (2.5 parts), and water (by eye);
- Using a spirit level, it is possible to determine the exact horizontal position of the base.
It is desirable not to use the foundation for a couple of weeks to allow the cement mortar to harden completely.
Brick sauna heater stoves are source of heat and a beautiful design solution
In every person a bathhouse evokes positive emotions, gives energy and supports health. Brick sauna heater will ensure the safety, comfort of the procedure and the quality of steam. The owner will need to decide on the design and materials, think about the dimensions, as well as the type of fuel.
- View. Stove with a sauna heater. a container for cobbles, closed or open. They play the role of a heat accumulator, which increases the time of its preservation in the steam room.
- Design. The stove consists of: furnace, grates, chimney and ash-pan.
- Weight. Depends on the size of the stove. Can weigh from 1 ton to 1 ton 200 kg, so you need to build it with a sturdy base.
- Fuel. Can run on electricity, natural gas, but traditionally heated with wood.
- Design. Many owners of baths give preference to models with a heated water tank at the top or bottom.
- Dimensions. Mainly depend on the square footage of the room to be heated. The dimensions of a 3.5×4 or 4×5 brick sauna heater’s base. The height of the construction without taking into account the chimney is 1 m 680 mm or 2 m 100 mm.
Basic requirements for a brick oven with a sauna heater
- smoke and gases must not enter the room where the furnace is located;
- Ability to heat air under the ceiling up to 95 C in a short time, while being economical;
- It must be so designed that the heat accumulated by the stones, kept for a long time;
- The stove cannot take up too much space;
- The volume of water to be heated should be 15 liters per person.
Tip! For the bath it is ideal to choose an open container: it is easier to take care of and more convenient to fill. Water is drained off completely in winter to avoid freezing.
Advantages and disadvantages of a brick sauna heater
Most owners prefer to equip proven structures made of brick.
- Energy saving. In the presence of power failures and the absence of gas supply, a brick sauna heater is an ideal option.
- Comfort. The stove gives soft heat and saturated, but at the same time light steam. The steam room is easy to breathe, which is important for those who like to sweat often.
- Heat capacity. The oven retains heat for 8 hours and can heat several rooms at the same time.
- Economic. No need to install electrical or gas line, and then pay the bill for the energy consumed. Wood is a cheap way to heat your sauna.
- Fire safety. Brick stoves are fully compliant thanks to their design features.
- Environmental friendliness. The heater is made of bricks and heated with wood. All materials are safe for human health.
- Design. Thanks to the design, some stoves are a work of art.
- Maintenance. The ash drawer must be cleaned constantly and the chimney must be cleaned at least once a year.
- Installation. Bricklaying a stove is a complex process that can only be carried out by a competent stove-mason.
- Dimensions. Large sauna heater will take up a lot of useful space in the steam room.
- Time. It is necessary to heat the furnace, and it takes more than one hour to heat up the steam room.
- the cost. A sauna heater is not a cheap pleasure. The foundation must be properly installed, high-quality materials must be purchased, and the services of a stove-setter must be paid for.
Attention! Brick stove is placed so that all rooms of the bath were heated. The front part of the furnace and the ash drawer is in the anteroom.
Safety precautions for installing a brick heater
The basic rule of fire safety. proper insulation of the brick structure from the wood surfaces.
- Foundation. Adhering to certain rules, a solid base.
- Chimney. Through the ceiling and roof the chimney. You have to protect the surfaces in contact with each other as much as possible from overheating, while still keeping the steam room airtight. Between the elements of the building and the pipe should be a gap, which is filled with fireproof material.
- Installing the sauna heater. The main requirement is that the adjoining wooden surfaces must be protected from overheating. The distance between the walls and the sauna heater should be at least 0,5 m, the firebox door 1m 50 cm.
- Insulation. Behind the stove, the wall is protected with brickwork and tin, which is also placed on the floor to protect it from embers that have fallen out of the fire.
Brick stove types for baths
- In black. This type of stove was especially popular in the villages. The main feature of the sauna heater is the absence of a chimney. Thanks to this there is more than enough aroma and steam in the room. The disadvantage. you can take a steam bath only when the fuel is burned completely.
- According to the white. The most acceptable design. With this type of installation, there will be no soot residue in the room and the heat will last longer. The downside: it takes a long time to warm up.
- With a stove. The most practical variant. The tank, covered with a brick wall on three sides, is installed on a cast-iron plate. Thanks to this, the water stays hot longer. Stones are placed above the chimney. In some cases, the order may be different.
Focus! The gray stove is the simplest version of construction.
- Permanent. On the slab or in a metal box place the stones. They are heated not by open fire, but by transfer of heat from one material to another. A distinctive feature. you can heat even if there are people in the room. Brick sauna stove with a closed sauna heater prevents combustion products from entering the sauna room.
- Periodic. The stones are placed on a metal grate directly above the fire. Water is poured directly on them only when the wood has burned completely. Brick sauna stove with an open heater requires periodic heating.
Choosing the materials for building an open stove
- Red bricks. Used for the masonry of the stove body, decorative elements and the chimney. For the construction of a small structure, 300 pcs are sufficient., up to 1,000 pcs for a large sauna heater.
- Fireclay. Does not lose its strength, even when heated up to 1400 C. Perfectly absorbs heat and cools down slowly, keeping the heat in the room as long as possible. The parameters are much better than other types. Used exclusively for firebox installations due to its high cost.
Tip! Brick quality is checked by pounding the material with a trowel handle. Deafening if flawed or defective.
- Solution. Knead only on a clay and sand base. Cement is not suitable for this purpose, since it crumbles when heated, destroying the masonry.
- Insulator. Any heat-resistant material that is used to insulate surfaces to prevent overheating will do.
- Furnace casting. You will need a stove damper, stone and water containers made of steel, grate, cast iron doors.
- Tools. Utensils for mixing mortar and soaking bricks, a pipe for the arrangement of the chimney, clay, a building level, sand, tape measure, sieve, steel wire, asbestos, roofing felt, trestles for high-altitude work.
Erection begins with the development of the project. Ready-made diagrams are extremely difficult to find. It usually needs to be refinished. Detailed drawing of all the rows of masonry, making adjustments. When making even small changes, a good stovemaker should be consulted.
- The furnace must not be too small. The size of the ash drawer should be such as to ensure a sufficient supply of air.
- Along the channel lay the grates. However, it is difficult to find the right size, so they install not so long grids, across.
- The height of the firebox should not be more than half a meter if there is an ash-pit above it. Ideally 8-9 rows. This way the stones heat up to the correct temperature more quickly. If the height of the furnace is too low, the stones do not get warm enough and soot may accumulate between them.
- The distance between the unprotected wooden elements and the brick wall must be at least 30 cm.
- Before laying the bricks on the clay-sand mortar, it is necessary to lay them dry according to the scheme, starting from one corner. Select the right size bricks, so that the joints are no more than 5 mm. Only then are they laid using mortar.
- The laid rows are checked with a construction level, before starting a new one. Precise corners should be checked with the plumb line. Even small deviations require adjustment.
- Installing the doors, start laying bricks from it, rigidly fixing the metal element. The places where the door adjoins are wrapped with asbestos beforehand. Fix them with a trellis or steel strips. Small grooves are made in the bricks under the wire, which will ensure a rigid fixation.
- The places where the pipe passes, in contact with walls, ceilings and roofs must be insulated with fireproof materials.
Having chosen the project, make poryadovku. a plan of laying bricks separately for each row.
Arrangement of the foundation
Weight of even the most modest-sized stove is about 800 kg, so for it must be equipped with a solid foundation.
Heater for baths made of bricks requirements for the foundation:
- Choose a place so that later did not have to cut load-bearing beams and floor boards;
- It is more practical not to tie the base for the sauna heater to the foundation of the sauna, during shrinkage this will protect the structure from collapse. Between them there should be a gap of not less than 5 cm. To ensure fire safety, it is filled with thermal insulation material;
- The base for the sauna heater and the bath are made of the same depth;
- The correct base has the form of an inverted trapezoid. at the bottom the base must coincide with the size of the furnace, and the upper one is increased by 10 cm on all sides.
The durability of the sauna heater depends on the quality of the foundation, which is why it is important to follow the construction method.
- After marking, in the corners of the pegs are hammered in and stretch a trellis between them;
- Dig a half-meter deep foundation pit, expanding at the bottom by 10 cm;
- on a layer of sand, pour broken bricks or gravel. The foundation is thoroughly tamped and covered with roofing felt;
- along the perimeter of the excavation make a formwork;
- lay a reinforcing mesh of rods, leaving a gap of 5 cm between it and the wall of the excavation, using stands or other fixation devices;
- Pour concrete mortar, not reaching 15 cm to the edge of the surface. Level the top;
- Leave the planking in place for about a week. Remove the formwork.
After the work is done, the foundation is covered with waterproofing. For this purpose lay strips of roofing felt to cover the whole surface, protruding beyond the edges by 5 cm. The second layer is placed perpendicularly to the first one. Fix the waterproofing with bitumen mastic.
Advice! Always dilute the clay to a paste-like consistency in water and rub it through a sieve.
Brick stove in the bath: the rules of mixing the mortar
Do not build the stonework on the basis of the cement mixture, as it cracks under the influence of intense heat. For this purpose, a clay-sand mixture is used, which will ensure the long service life of the sauna stove. The water must be free of impurities and debris. The sand is sifted beforehand.
Important! Soak the clay for the mortar for a few days to ensure a good soaking. Immediately before masonry, it is diluted with water, bringing it to the desired consistency by adding sand.
Homogeneity is achieved by interrupting the mixture with a special nozzle or in a mixer, only then begin masonry. Viscosity can be determined by dipping the stick into the mortar, and then shaking it off. If after that a layer of more than 3 mm remains, sand is poured. The mortar should be the consistency of plasticine.
Brick stove for the bath with an open heater or other variant can not be built without the ranking. the scheme of arrangement of bricks in rows. First, they are numbered, notched, and the size and shape of the pieces are selected. Having prepared everything, start working with mortar.
Tip! A good bond will ensure a preliminary soaking of bricks in water, until the appearance of bubbles.
- Lay the first layer of bricks along the perimeter of the oven. The row is called row zero. The corners of this base should be 90 C and exactly follow the pattern of rows around the perimeter. The difference of diagonals should not be more than 2-3 mm. This is due to the shape of the brick.
- The thickness of joints. no more than 5 mm. When laying a row, the joint at the bottom should overlap a whole brick. After the first line is laid, start using the clay and sand mortar.
- On the third line mount the ash door. Fixing the galvanized wire will ensure a solid assembly. For a solid masonry top brick is trimmed.
- Before laying the fourth row, be sure to check the evenness with a construction level. Start installing the ash pan and grate.
- The ash door is installed on the sixth line. In the seventh row cut out 1,5 cm hollows for the grate. This is done so that there is a gap between the brick.
- By the 14th row, the masonry is done with a partition, into which the channels are cut. Make an opening in front of the sauna heater to heat the water.
- The fifteenth timber is laid in half a brick, setting the halves at an angle. The next three rows are built using the spoon binding.
- In the 19th row put the door, through which the steam will escape. The twentieth and the next one are fastened with wire or strips of U-shaped hangers. Begin the installation of the chimney hood, the height of which is determined by taking into account the size of the bath, but not less than half a meter it should be above the roof.
Tip! The chimney is coated with a mortar of cement or lime.
Brick sauna woodburning stove: chimney installation
When installing the chimney, take into account that the iron pipe will create condensation at temperature changes. This will lead to an accumulation of soot in it, so the metal is recommended to replace the brick.
The size of the stove must match the size of the chimney. After installation it is led out to a height of at least half a meter above the roof. Usually an asbestos pipe is used for this, which is encased in brick. On the quality of the work, will depend on how well the smoke will be removed from the room.
Advice! The chimney is stacked only of a whole brick, so that the cracked elements and halves do not fall out. Masonry must be very accurate. Only a completely flat surface will prevent the accumulation of soot and dust.
It is forbidden to narrow the channel of the chimney. Its length from the edges of the chimney to the grate must be at least 5 meters. Smaller dimensions will not allow the smoke to cool quickly, and the heat will fly up the chimney.
In the place of passage in the ceiling, the chimney is surrounded with bricks and insulated with heat-resistant material. The outside of the chimney is covered with a lime mortar, so that in case of a leak we can immediately find where it occurs.
After completing all the work, leave the stove for a few days, leaving windows and doors open so it can dry out. Test firing up the sauna heater. To do this, heat the stove for ten minutes with small pieces of wood. Do this several times. If condensation appears on the construction, it means that it has not yet dried enough.
Brick sauna stove with a closed heater: arrangement of the water heating tank
Often the project of a stove with a closed sauna heater includes a tank for water. it is economical and convenient. It must be placed so that it consumes the maximum amount of heat. Tanks can be built-in or hinged, depending on the size of the stove. Mounted next to the chimney.
The volume of the container is calculated taking into account that one person will need 20 liters of hot water. When using the bath for a large company, it is recommended to install a tank of 100 liters. It is better to choose the tank made of stainless steel so that the water would not turn yellow.
Brick stove with a closed sauna heater and with open stones: features of finishing
Brick stoves are ideal for cladding. It heats evenly with the brick.
- Clinker tiles. It has a high heat capacity and stiffness. It does not warp over time, giving the steam room a cozy appearance. Chamotte clay is used for production. Comes in a variety of colors.
- Izranets. The tiles have a box shape. Often made by hand. Filled with glaze and decorated with exquisite patterns. Invented especially for oven lining. The back side has a special design and is attached to the joints with special metal pins, simultaneously with the masonry.
- Terracotta. Unglazed pressed clay, obtained by firing. Tiles are characteristically brownish-red in color and have excellent strength indicators.
The sauna heater with an open sauna heater can be decorated with stones or bricks. With proper care the cladding will please fans of steam for a long time. Brick sauna stove with a closed heater is regularly wiped of soot and dust. Damaged elements can be repaired or replaced.
Today it is difficult to find a competent master stove builder, who can put the stove with economical fuel consumption and maximum heat output. Furnace for the bath of bricks can be laid independently, most importantly, clearly follow the recommendations for the construction and the scheme of masonry. The cost of construction will depend on the materials chosen. The furnace is laid only of fireclay bricks, and the doors should be cast iron.
Do I need a foundation??
Such a structure will have a significant weight, so before installing it, a solid foundation must be built. Some experts say that if the building is built on a solid foundation, its separate erection for the furnace is not required. But if you live in an area with swampy ground or in northern regions where temperature extremes mean that even carefully compacted soil will “play”, you should build a separate foundation for your sauna heater.
Cutting load-bearing beams and beams for its erection, rafters and floor beams for the output of the chimney is undesirable, so the place under the furnace is better to choose before the construction of the building.
Important! You should not tie such a foundation to the main foundation, since due to the large temperature difference when heated, the expansion coefficient will be too large. The distance between the foundation and the heater must be at least half a metre.
Foundation for the sauna stove
Making the firebox
Basically, the doors are bought in advance and already in ready-made form. As it is very difficult to make them yourself. Also buy the grids. To create the firebox itself you need a tube of at least 2 meters in length.
Parameters of thickness are allowed from 5 mm, but it is better to put all the same 10 mm, as it is more reliable and will last longer. It is divided into two parts.
The first is needed directly for the firebox itself, as well as the sauna heater. The dimensions of this piece should be no less than 0.9 m. The second part will be used to create the tank, the dimensions of which will be 0.6 m.
Next, a small hole is cut directly into the pipe itself. Its width will be 0.2 m, length. 0.5 m. After that, using a welding machine, a metal plate is attached, on which the grate will be located. It is advisable to buy it in advance.
Furnace for the bath with their own hands. design, manufacture and installation of various types of furnaces (95 photos)
Many owners of country plots try to ennoble their property and are not excluded from the planning of building a bathhouse on the plot. Some people turn to professionals for help in the construction, but others believe that the bath must be built with their own hands, so to speak, it will be of special value.
Coming into the bath, where the stove is made for the bath from bricks with his own hands, you will feel the additional heat from the fact that it is made by you yourself.
Few people would argue that the main element of the bath is considered a stove. It is possible to construct it yourself, but provided that the preliminary study of the stove business.
It is necessary to choose in advance exactly what kind of stove you need, as well as to make all the necessary drawings stove for the bath with his own hands.
How to make a stove for the bath with your own hands details from the master
The design of the stove is primitive, but it has a number of significant conditions. The difference between an ordinary heating stove and a sauna stove is that the second one has additional elements, such as a heater and a water tank.
Many masters stop at the choice to make a stove in the bath with their own hands, not buying in the store. The process of construction is not simple, and requires enough time.
First you need to familiarize yourself with the basic components of bath stoves, and these are:
Brick oven layout for the bath (one of the variants)
- Construction of sauna stoves made of bricks is a rather complex construction that requires the precise performance of various nuances. That is why the drawing should display each of the rows in detail and, if necessary, there should be explanations.
- In the scheme, the individual parts are marked with strokes and dividing lines, so that you can imagine how many pieces are needed for laying a particular row. All rounding and undercutting on the stones, shown in the diagram, are made with the help of an angle grinder.
Foundation with backing and waterproofing
- The depth of the foundation should be 50 to 70 cm. everything will depend on the possible frost penetration of the soil, so this value you will have to adjust yourself. But the components will still be the same. on the base is poured a layer of sand, about 10-15 cm and abundantly watered with water for shrinkage. Then rubble, gravel or even debris (broken bricks and old knocked down plaster) is poured on it, and everything is rammed, but you need to leave about 30 cm for pouring the cement mortar.
- On rubble or other sub-base it is necessary to lay a waterproofing. usually for this use a roofing felt, but you can also use a thick cellophane film. After that, flush with the floor, cement mortar is poured, which can be made of cement and sand (1/4), but you can use sand instead of crushed stone (1/6), then the base will be more solid. Also, roofing felt is placed over the foundation to annul any contact of bricks with moisture, because it destroys it.
Tip. In order for the foundation not to sag, its base, that is, backfill, should be done in an area slightly larger than the pouring part. To do this, a formwork is placed on the rubble, each side of the perimeter of which will be 10 cm less than the backfill.
- For the erection of the furnace, the instructions provide two types of mortar. cement-sand and clay-sand. The cement mixture is made of grade 400 or 500 with the appropriate addition of sand.1/4 or 1/5. By consistency, it should resemble liquid semolina and slip freely from the trowel.
- For clay and sand a slightly different ratio and here one part is set aside for clay, and 2.5 parts are set aside for sand. Mix very carefully, because the clay is very viscous and lumps are poorly broken up, which will further interfere with masonry. The ready mixture should slide freely from the master, leaving only small smears on its plane. such consistency is most suitable for work.
Installing the ash pan with the help of wire
- As a rule, first of all, a solid row of bricks is laid according to the shape of the furnace. you can call it zero. Such a base must conform strictly to the shape of the ordering on the outer contour and have angles exactly equal to 90⁰. Of course, the brick itself has a rectangular shape, but in order to avoid failure, check the diagonals. their difference should not exceed 2-3 mm.
- The thickness of the joints between the stones should not exceed 3-5 mm, and this requires high-quality mortar, without lumps and debris then the joint will be easy to adjust to the right size. When laying each row, a whole brick must overlap the joint on the bottom row, and in this case the spoon binding is most acceptable. After laying the first row, you should move on to the clay mortar.
- On the third row the ash door is installed and galvanized wire is attached to them, as seen in the photo, and the top brick is trimmed for a tighter laying.
- Many craftsmen also advise over the door to cut a brick wedge, because the metal is strongly heated and such a design is the most durable. Instead of wire, galvanized tin can be used. Before the device fourth row is necessary to check the masonry building level or plumb, since here already begins arrangement of the ash pan and grate.
To install the grate, the brick must be trimmed
- In the sixth row is installed the ash-pan door, and in the seventh row to install the grate you must cut a recess of 1-1,5 cm, and, moreover, so that the grate after installation had the backlash, because the expansion of metal and bricks when heated different (metal expands more) and this requires a reserve. Most often such elements (doors, grate) are made of cast-iron as the most fireproof element for furnace equipment.
- Starting from the eighth row, the masonry is made with a partition, and this continues up to the fourteenth row, in which the channels are installed. In the front of the wall is made an opening, where the water boiler is installed.
- The fifteenth row is laid in half bricks. the halves are placed at an angle to each other (for the base of the dividing wall), and then the next three rows are installed with a spoon tie.
- In the nineteenth row, a door is placed for the passage of steam into the steam room, and the twentieth and twenty-first row should be fastened with strips like U-shaped hangers or wire. After that, the installation of the exhaust pipe begins, and its height will already depend on the height of the bath itself.
- Once the process is complete, the brick stove can be painted.
Tip. The flue pipe must be at least 0.5 m above the roof of the sauna. To coat the chimney should be lime or cement mortar, not afraid of exposure to condensation.
The main requirements for furnaces for the Russian bath
Working out the drawing of the furnace for the bath, it should be remembered that such constructions have the following requirements:
- high heat output, allowing for heating of ceiling air up to 95-100 ° C, floor. up to 45 ° C. The numerical values of this parameter depend on the area of the structure and the material of which the walls are made;
- small dimensions. The furnace for the Russian bath should occupy a minimum of space;
- sufficient water heating. On average, you need at least 15 liters for one person;
- the ability to accumulate heat for a long time;
- safety. No smoke or gas should enter the sauna when the heating system is in operation.