Home Refrigerators Replacing the capillary tube of the Indesit refrigerator with your own hands

Replacing the capillary tube of the Indesit refrigerator with your own hands

Indesit refrigerator repair

You can tell a lot about Indesit refrigerator repair and 1 article is not enough for that because this brand produces not only a lot of models but also refrigerators with different defrosting or freezing system (here it is called by some as they want). I will try to tell briefly about each of these systems, but nevertheless I will pay more attention to the whining system of defrosting, as for today, it is perhaps the most common refrigeration in the homes of the inhabitants of the former Soviet Union, I will pay special attention to automation, because namely the defects associated with thermostat or relay, you can correct with your hands, as for the Freon leak or replacement motor, in such cases, without the assistance of a master will not do. So no less important point is related to the engine, that is, compressor, then the main thing is to properly diagnose its failure. It often happens so that at first sight the engine is out of order, but the result is that this part is perfectly serviceable. Now, after doing a little introductory part, you can begin to find the causes of the fault of your refrigerator

In more than 50 %, the thermostat or the relay is out of order, but the real scourge for these refrigerators, is the Freon leak in the foamed part of the case, below I will try to list all troubles, which are connected with this system of defrosting. Here it is desirable to note at once that if the master has defined in your refrigerator freon leak and recommends you to establish, on a back wall in a refrigerating chamber, a weeping evaporator it is desirable to agree with it, it is not necessary to be greedy. This is a small digression, but to the point, but now I will list all the things that can break in your refrigerator

  • Motor start relay. In this case, the motor just won’t start or will start for a few seconds
  • Burnt out refrigerator motor. Signs are the same as in the first paragraph, plus if you hear a barely perceptible hum of the engine, then he most likely came to death, about the rest read below
  • Freon leakage. No cold, in the refrigerator compartment or freezer compartment
  • Capillary blockage. Same as above, point 3
  • Thermostat broke. Fridge doesn’t turn on or works in the wrong mode

Next we will disassemble everything in order and first of all we will start with the most important, i.e. the starting protection relay and the refrigerator compressor

Engine start relay or compressor fails

In Indesit refrigerators two types of motors are used, this compressor from ACC and brand Denfos, both motors, as I think, quite well proven in operation, but still they have their shortcomings. The thing is that they are afraid of overvoltage and as a result they often break down. Here it is possible to note the following, that here the fault is not the manufacturer but the consumer who from ignorance or from avarice has not established the current regulator, as a result the engine receives undervoltage or overvoltage. Now look what happens to the relay in the case of undervoltage, it turns on the motor and the motor cannot start or does not start for a few seconds, because the relay trips, that is cuts off the motor from the circuit, as a result of repeated switching off and on, the relay may fail, but so does the motor. One more reason why the starter relay can burn out is because of overheating of the compressor from long work. If you are an ordinary user, then in your case, I would do the following operation. Remove the relay from the motor and take it to a workshop so that the technician connected it to a known working motor-compressor, then it will be clear whether this part is working or not. Below you can watch video in which it is told how to check the relay and the engine on refrigerators Indesit

Now a little more detail, this paragraph. It happens that the engine runs for an hour or two, but after the thermostat turns it off, the compressor can not start, it is more related to the overheating of the motor and so until it cools down, it will not work. There is only one reason here, the piston glues on the compressor and to correct such malfunction, it is possible to change the engine only. In general, if the refrigerator motor does not start, first of all remove the relay and take it to a workshop, a craftsman with little understanding will immediately identify the damage. It is very important not to pull the plug every 5 seconds into the socket, this should not be done, the minimum interval between switching off and on should be not less than 10 minutes

The Indesit two-chamber refrigerator stopped to freeze and cold

Here it is, the biggest screw-up in two-chamber refrigerators with drip system of defrosting. As you have guessed, we are talking about a leakage of freon and clogged capillary. If the injection tube is clogged, that is capillary, then first of all you should look at the heat exchanger, it is a metal grating behind the refrigerator, it is also called condenser or radiator. In general it is desirable to check how this heat exchanger heats up, if to the touch two rolls are very hot, and the rest are cold, then most likely we are talking about a clogged filter or capillary tube. Without a master, you can not make such repairs with your own hands. For full authenticity of a picture it is necessary to deflate gas from the system, to drop air pressure in it and to look the passage of a capillary tube on an output. If at the outlet of the capillary, the air blows well, i.e. as it should, then it is necessary to insert a weeping evaporator. An illustrative example of such work, I have shown in the video, which you can watch below, and now let’s break down the signs that the refrigerator is leaking freon

  • The temperature in the refrigerating chamber has increased
  • On the back wall of the refrigerator compartment you can easily identify it by pressing the plastic, if you can feel a free space under it, it is 100% necessary to install a weeping evaporator
  • Very low temperature in the freezer and not enough temperature to turn it off in the fridge compartment
  • You can smell the unpleasant odor of oil
  • Refrigerator doesn’t turn off
  • In the corner on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment, there is ice, that is, a block of ice

To repair with my own hands Indesit No Frost refrigerator

The story about the crying system took too much space, that is why it is necessary to write about Indesit No Frost in another article, but now I will try to briefly describe the most common malfunctions of these devices. Repair of such refrigerators is simple enough, it consists of replacement of automatics, and not separately but all together. When such refrigerators began to be produced, I, as a little experienced in this matter, first changed the sensors then the timers, but as a result I came to the conclusion that this is all bullshit. In short, after a while, I returned with the same breakdowns. In general, guys, don’t be foolish and if your No Frost is moping around, change all the automatics together, don’t be greedy. Be sure to watch the video on this subject

Watch video how to repair refrigerator Indesit No Frost

it is necessary to add here that freon leak in these refrigerating installations, occurs very seldom, for the practice I had to eliminate such gadoga, only some times. Believe, I repaired them, not one hundred and practically everywhere changed the timer and the defrost sensor, less often did replacement of the defrosting element, it changes exactly as well as in refrigerators Samsung, LG and other brands. Of course, if the breakage is associated with a leak or replace the heater, it is better to contact a good specialist, since this procedure is not easy and here you can find a lot of trouble, but as for the timer and defrost sensor, it is quite possible, you can do with your own hands

Watch video how to replace the defrosting fan in the refrigerator Indesit, Samsung, etc.п.

Indesit No Frost fridge does not freeze

In the photo below, the defrost timer, it manages the defrosting process of the freezer evaporator. Usually interval between switching on the defrosting fan is from 8 to 12 hours, it depends on how long the engine of the fridge was in operation, that is, the total operating time of the compressor is taken into account. By the way, the replacement of this timer can be a clock mechanism from Ariston or Stinol, here it should be noted that these are almost the same refrigerators. Check the defrost timer, very difficult, for this we need to create a whole structure with a bell, that is do the following thing. It is necessary to connect to the circuit, something like an alarm, that is to make so that when the clock mechanism will enter into defrost, it would loudly signal to us about it

In photo 2, defrost sensor is a very capricious detail, it is difficult to check it. It is made like a thermostat, i.e. when the temperature drops, contacts inside this sensor close, so you would think to take a multimeter and just check. Yes indeed, if you remove it from the system and test it this way, I assure you in 90% of cases it will work like clockwork, but as soon as you put it back in place, the wonders of turning it on and off begin. In general, if this sensor during check showed that it works, do not believe it

In what cases do you need to replace the automation?

  • Ice freezing on the freezing evaporator
  • There is no frost in the fridge compartment
  • The rear grill of the refrigerator is completely hot and there is no frost. We are talking about the condenser which is at the back of the refrigerator

Basically, these are the main breakdowns that we have considered in this refrigeration unit. Here it is necessary to note the following, as well as in any fridge with system No Frost, first of all you should get to a freezing evaporator and to look at freezing of ice, if there is no ice on a freezer it already says that, most likely, there was a leak or clogged capillary. Above I wrote that in refrigerators with this system, the thermostat there is 145. Our manufacturer didn’t get clever and did the most sensible thing, the guys put in something that can be easily replaced and tested. In general, checking this thermostat is no different from checking the thermostat with a crying cooling system. In short, you have to bypass the pins and listen to the refrigerator motor, if the motor starts, then you need to change the thermostat

indezit B 16 when switching on works 5-10 seconds.then tries to turn it on again.2-3 sec compressor TLESSF.resistance measurement: operation.18,3; start. 15.6 ;but between start and run.it showed 18 Ohm. The light is on, the thermostat indicator light, too. Relay (on for 5-10 seconds) is too hot to the touch. Question?- (Is it fatal or is there a chance?).

Hope dies last. Of course, you can try to change the relay, but in most cases, this does not help. I always say so. the relay costs 100-120 hryvnia, call a master in some regions about 200 hryvnia. So you can try to replace this part, if the problem does not go away, it means you need to change the motor

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Capillary tube replacement process

The tube replacement procedure can be considered on the example of the corresponding event for refrigeration equipment with a bottom freezer compartment:

  • The old capillary tube is cut at a distance of 10-15 millimeters from the joint and in the area of entry to the evaporator.
  • The permeability of the tube is checked with nitrogen: if it is below the norm, the remains are removed along with the filter-drier. The latter is replaced.
  • The new tube is connected to the new filter-drier. The tube is wound the same way as it was placed before, the sheath is put on its free part.
  • Part of the tube with the shell is pulled into the freezer compartment and docked to the evaporator spigot.
  • The tube ends are sealed in both the filter and the evaporator.
  • The thermostat tube is installed on the evaporator through the sheath and one gasket.
  • Then the refrigeration equipment should be evacuated and then filled with freon.

After performing the above procedure, the refrigerator is turned on and tested for one cycle, that is, before it is turned off. If the problems and malfunctions are not detected, the repair was successful.

How to unblock your fridge drain hole | by Indesit

Replacing the capillary tube on refrigeration equipment with a top freezer is slightly different due to the structure of the unit. However, this is just as time-consuming a process in which a single error can lead to a malfunction. Therefore, it is better to entrust the replacement to a specialist who knows the exact order of actions and will not allow that the procedure will have to be repeated because of a mistake made.

What difficulties can be encountered when replacing the capillary tube?

If to act independently, it is necessary to take into account that even following a clear regulation, it is possible to make a mistake. In order to eliminate it as quickly as possible, it is necessary to carry out initial diagnostics. Determine which problem occurred during the replacement. Here are some of them:

  • The selected new tube is not suitable for the refrigeration equipment of a certain model. it can be shorter, longer, of incorrect diameter. This will result in incomplete cooling, causing the refrigerator to run without shutting down.
  • Improperly performed replacement. the heat exchanger in the refrigeration equipment will stop working.
  • Incorrect soldering of the tube in the evaporator, as a consequence extraneous noises occur that will not necessarily affect the refrigerator performance, but they can be annoying and irritating.

Replace Capillary Tube in an Indesit Refrigerator

Household refrigerator repairmen often have to deal with a partial or complete blockage of the capillary tube. As a rule, it happens to refrigerators atlant with the use of coolant R-134a. After diagnosing the blockage there is a dilemma. to clean or to change the capillary tube, the cross section of which is usually 0.71 mm. Methods for cleaning and replacing the capillary tube are varied. Consider them.

Cleaning of copper capillary tube can be executed with flushing mixtures or refrigeration oils with using of jack-press (in this case either special flushing refrigerant R-141 (142) b, or oil, preferably compatible with R-134a, is filled into the jack). There are also “ancient” methods of cleaning. without a jack: with a tube filled with oil (hydraulic fluid) and a hammer.

Other craftsmen are committed to soldering. they only change the capillary tube. Soldering skills are important here, not only for copper, but also for aluminum. On the Internet there are many videos on how to join aluminum and copper pipes. As a rule, it all happens in “laboratory conditions”. plenty of space, convenient approach, no “tension” in the soldering point and polyurethane foam, which flares from the fire, emitting a caustic smell and gases that prevent soldering. It all goes away in no time at all. The reality is more complicated. For soldering of the joint it is recommended to use solders with melting point up to 450 degrees Celsius. ALCOR-22 and CASTOLIN 192 FBK, it is obligatory to deburr the surfaces from varnish and upper aluminum layer. It is desirable to tin the place of soldering of capillary tube and the place of puncture of aluminum evaporator with used aluminum solder. To do this, carefully heat the connection area until it turns whitish, adding a rod of aluminum solder from time to time until the flux spreads. and then apply a thin layer of aluminum solder to the surface.

The third group of craftsmen use everything in their arsenal, as long as there was a short-term effect of “good” work. Solvents are used: acetone, kerosene, acid, alcohol, etc.п. These “masters” are not interested that after such flushing the compressor will not live long. their task is to show the client that only they can cope with capillary tube clogging and others are just amateurs and unskilled. They give a warranty for the work, but after such an intervention the fridge is doomed. its service life is several times shorter. The service centers for refrigerator repair use the recommendations of the Atlant manufacturer for cleaning the refrigerating circuit (capillary tube) using special solvents, limiting the time of contact between the solvent and the blockage to a few seconds.

Among capillary tube replacement methods, gluing a copper capillary tube into an aluminum evaporator is the easiest, as it may seem. But at least 2 problems arise. longer refrigerator repair time and limited service life of the “glued” connection. When gluing special two-component adhesives, in common parlance. epoxy or cold welding with special properties, capable of withstanding the temperature range from minus 60 to plus 110 degrees. And here’s where the manufacturer’s recommendation for 10-year-old service centers is to use POXIPOL, a two-component epoxy adhesive for metal.

In essence, we have in front of us a circuit used in refrigerators today. There are only a few basic components in it:

How to replace a Fridge Freezer Thermostat Hotpoint Indesit

The first electric refrigerators appeared in 1913. The principle of their operation is based on the temperature processes occurring in the refrigerant (freon) during the transition from the liquid state to the gaseous state and vice versa.

The simplest diagram of the refrigeration plant looks like this.

In essence in front of us there is a scheme, used in refrigerators even today. There are only a few basic nodes:

Such a refrigeration unit works quite simply. A compressor creates pressure in a closed system and forces the gaseous refrigerant into a liquid state. A large amount of heat is generated, which is dissipated into the environment via the condenser. The liquid freon, passing through a choke, enters the low-pressure zone of the system, where it boils and turns into a gaseous state. Freon boils at subzero temperatures in the evaporator, so the resulting cold in the evaporator cools its walls greatly, and a sufficiently sealed chamber of the unit does not allow cold air to enter the atmosphere. Since the circuit in which the refrigerant circulates is a closed circuit, the freon transition cycle from one state to another is repeated many times.

In addition to the above-mentioned main elements, the design of the refrigerator includes several additional nodes:

You can read more about the device and the principle of operation of the refrigerator in the article of the DNS Club.

In recent years, units based on the No Frost principle have become very popular in the household refrigeration segment. The basic difference is that the foods are cooled not due to contact with the cold surfaces of the evaporator but due to the cooled air constantly circulating in the chamber.

The basic principle of cooling in the interior remains the same. But a powerful fan inside the unit is responsible for the distribution of the cold air, ensuring a constant circulation inside the unit through special ducts.

Each refrigerator model has peculiarities in construction, cooling circuit, electric and electronic control circuits. Let’s analyze the faults that are typical for different Indesit refrigerators, why they do not turn on, do not freeze.

What do you need light bulbs in the refrigerator?

As we have already mentioned, the light bulb in the refrigerating equipment is needed in order to see all the products located inside. Nevertheless, the manufacturers have provided for lighting and other functions:

  • The right lighting will allow you to identify spoiled food in a timely manner, so it is recommended to install models with cold light, because warm light “embellishes” the food.
  • The lamp allows you to determine the tightness of the refrigerator door closure, because everyone knows that when the unit is closed tightly, the illuminator goes out.

It should be understood that these signs can be the cause of other problems, so it is desirable to determine the exact cause of such behavior of the equipment before proceeding to repair.

Troubleshooting and repair of refrigerators

Capillary tube replacement in the refrigerators with bottom freezing chamber. Failure to locate the defect. When the capillary tube is partially or completely clogged in refrigerators with bottom freezing chamber, the freezing chamber is poorly cooled, the freezing chamber is warm. Repair of refrigerators with such a defect is made by replacement of the capillary tube. Procedure:

Cut the capillary tube from the side of the filter-drier at a distance of 10-15 mm from the joint and from the other side of the capillary tube. in the zone of inlet to the evaporator of the freezing chamber at the same distance. Check capillary tube permeability, which should be at 8 kg/cm2 inlet pressure of dry compressed air or nitrogen for all models. (4,0±0,2) l/min., If the permeability is below the indicated value, solder out and replace the filter-drier and unsolder the residual capillary tube from the evaporator of MC. Connect a new capillary tube to the filter-drier by winding 2-3 coils on the filter, 7-8 coils outside the filter with a spring and a few coils on the suction pipe. Put a PVC jacket on the free part of the capillary tube. Capillary tube with sheath put on is pulled through the opening in the cabinet into the freezer, the excess of the tube is put in rings over the upper shelf of the MC, and connected to the branch pipe of the evaporator. The ends of the capillary tube are sealed into the filter and evaporator of the MC. The tube with bellows of the thermostat is mounted on the evaporator through 1 gasket (instead of 2 gaskets, as in the standard version). Evacuate the cooling unit and charge with freon. Connect the repaired fridge to the electric mains and check the refrigerator operation before switching it off (cycle operation). If the capillary tube is clogged in top-mounted refrigerators, the capillary tube can also be replaced: capillary clogging in refrigerators with upper freezing chamber.

Diagnose capillary tube blockage

Signs of refrigerant circulation failure:

  • Fridge runs and will not shut off ( Ice in the freezer compartment builds up)
  • No cold in the refrigerator compartment (the freezer compartment works)
  • Refrigerator is working but isn’t cooling (the engine is cycling under load) happens very rarely at 100% clogging
  • Fridge does not freeze but after switching it off for a few hours it starts working ( Gas changes from liquid to gaseous state when the fridge is switched off. As a consequence the pressure in the system rises and this can break the capillary, but not for long.
  • Switch on fridge and hold on to the discharge tube (if the tube starts to get warm and in a couple of minutes begins to cool, this is most likely a clog);
  • Condenser warms up half way through;
  • Wipe the condenser with a wet rag (remove all the dust and dirt that interferes with the cooling of the gas). If the part of condenser became cold and is not warm at all, it testifies that the gas compressed by the compressor has cooled down and stands in the condenser, that is the capillary does not let it into the evaporator in the necessary quantity.

I want to pay your attention that after cleaning of condenser from dust with clogged system the refrigerator can stop cooling with all! This will be due to the fact that the pressure in the condenser will drop and the gas will pass slower due to clogging of the capillary tube

Diagnose by opening the system

The 100% diagnosis of a capillary obstruction can only be made after opening the system. For this you will need all the necessary tools. I do not advise to engage in this domestic workers who have no idea about the refrigeration equipment or in the absence of the necessary tools. Purchase of all materials and tools will cost much more expensive than to call a wizard from outside.

  • You can open the system (charging branch) and connect the manometer. After starting the compressor, the pressure should not go to the minus zone (vacuum). Pressure does not rise or rises very slowly after shutting off the motor, indicating that there is a capillary tube blockage.
  • We disconnect the fridge, we bite off the charging connector and we can feel that it is sucking air.
  • Cut capillary on the filter. Freon spurts out of filter under pressure. This also indicates a clogging problem.

Diagnose capillary blockage

Signs of poor circulation of refrigerant:

  • Refrigerator runs and will not shut off ( ice builds up in the refrigerator compartment)
  • No cold in the refrigerator compartment (freezer compartment is working)
  • Fridge is working but does not cool (motor cycling under load) very rarely at 100% blockage
  • The refrigerator does not cool, but after switching off for pair of hours begins to work ( At switching off of the refrigerator the gas changes from liquid condition to gaseous condition. As a consequence the pressure in the system rises which can puncture the capillary, but not for a long time.
  • turn on refrigerator and hold on to the discharge tube (if the tube began to warm and after a couple of minutes began to cool, it is most likely a clog);
  • The condenser is half heated;
  • Wipe the condenser with a wet rag (remove all dust and dirt that interferes with gas cooling). If a part of the condenser has become cold and not warm at all, it indicates that the gas compressed by the compressor has cooled down and is standing in the condenser, that is the capillary does not let it into the evaporator in the right amount.

I would like to point out that after cleaning the condenser from dust with a clogged system, the refrigerator may stop cooling with everything! This would be because the pressure in the condenser would drop and the gas would pass more slowly because of a clogged capillary tube

Diagnose when you open the system

100% diagnosis that there is a clogged capillary tube, can only be made by opening the system. For this you will need all the necessary tools. I do not advise doing this to home masters who have no idea about the refrigeration equipment, or in the absence of the necessary tools. Purchase of all materials and tools will cost much more expensive than to call a wizard from outside.

  • You can open the system (charging port) and connect the manometer. After start of the compressor the pressure should not go to a minus zone (vacuum). After disconnecting the engine the pressure doesn’t rise or rises very slowly that testifies that there is a clog of capillary tube.
  • We disconnect the fridge, bite off the charging connector and feel that it sucks air.
  • We cut a capillary on the filter. Freon squirts under pressure from the filter. This also indicates a clogging problem.

Signs of freon leakage in the refrigerator

To begin with I will list all the signs of a leak, I think this will help you later on, because you must first find out the reason why your refrigerator does not freeze, and then only fix it. The fact is that many users, often make the mistake of thinking that their unit is out of refrigerant. Sometimes it happens that the thermostat is glitchy, that is, it is working in the wrong mode. Now we can talk about how to recognize a freon leak

  • The refrigerator does not turn off. Many people blame the thermostat at once, but often the culprit is a clogged filter or a leak. You should understand that the thermostat will switch off the motor only when the temperature in the freezing chamber is as it should be, usually it is from 7 to 15 degrees of frost. Take an outside thermometer and throw it into the freezer, if the specified temperature, within 15 minutes will not be, the thermostat is obviously not the cause
  • Freezer evaporator not completely covered with frost. Here don’t hurry to make a conclusion as I have written above, it is possible that your unit, works not in a correct mode, that is the operating time of the motor less than it is necessary and the refrigerator does not have time to freeze the freezing chamber. Note how many minutes the motor runs, if it runs for less than 1-2 minutes, then all is not lost, it may be a matter of the thermostat
  • Condenser. With a working motor, all of his stools should be warm, if this does not happen, then most likely there was a leak or clogged filter
  • Open the freezer. If you hear a hissing sound like the sound of a wave at sea, the filter is most likely clean
  • Drops of oil on the condenser or in the freezer. Here you just have to, feel everything with your hands, especially the solder area near the motor and heat exchanger. Defrost the refrigerator until the evaporator is completely dry, open the freezer and run your hand over it, if this is where the leak occurred, in most cases, there will be an oil slick

I think I listed all the signs, and if in your case, all of the above are the same, then feel free to call a master. It is almost impossible to fix the leak with your own hands, because you need a special tool, flux, solder, and a device to pump the refrigerant into the system. Below I have posted a video that I recommend you watch, in it you will see what you need to do to solder the freezer and repair the refrigerator

Replace the thermostat on a single refrigerator

The first thing you have to do is determine if you need to change the thermostat. Many users of refrigeration equipment have no idea where this part is located and what function it performs. Now let’s try to figure out how the thermostat works and only then will we consider replacing it. The thermostat is a kind of light switch, think of a light bulb in your room. What do you turn it off, you can tell by the hand with the button, that is pressed and the light goes out. The thermostat has the same function as a button but it has a bellows and a thermostat part, it is a refrigerant filled system. The thermostat tube should be tightly pressed to the freezer evaporator, but only through a kimbo or a special plate, this is done in order for your refrigerator to work in normal mode. When the compressor runs, the freezer gets the temperature. Freon, which is pumped into the tube thermostat and bellows, narrows, as a result the spring is able to press the bellows so that the mechanism of opening of contacts will work, all the engine shuts down. In general, as long as in the freezing chamber, will not be the desired temperature, the refrigerator will not turn off. I think I have explained clearly how the thermostat switches off the refrigerator and now let’s see in what cases you need to change the thermostat

Photo of thermostat device

Refrigerator compressor repair with your own hands

Our article will help you to correctly answer this question.

How the refrigerator is built

No matter what brand of your fridge. Atlant, Indesit, LG or Soviet Donbass. they all have the same basic structure. The refrigerator consists of several elements that play their functional role in it:

  • of the compressor-motor,
  • condenser,
  • dehumidifier,
  • capillary tube,
  • evaporator,
  • thermostat,
  • Temperature sensor (thermal relay),
  • start relay,
  • the light bulbs,
  • The body, including doors, shelves, seals and other small parts.

The principle of operation of the refrigerator is quite simple. The compressor, consisting of an electric motor and the compressor itself, sucks freon gas into the working cavity. Then the working body (piston, wheels, rotor, etcп.) The pressurized gas is expelled into the condenser, where it gives up its heat to the atmosphere. After the condenser, freon passes through a capillary tube, the purpose of which is to create resistance and to sharply reduce the freon pressure. After the capillary tube, freon enters the evaporator where it once again changes its gaseous state. The process involves significant heat absorption inside the refrigerator. The gaseous freon is sucked back into the working cavity of the compressor and the cycle is repeated many times.

How a compressor is built

There are several types of compressors: classic, linear, inverter. The vast majority of existing refrigeration units use the conventional type. Therefore, in this article we will consider the structure, principle of operation and repair of this type of compressors.

There are many types of classic compressors:

The most common type. piston. The piston compressor is arranged as follows: Behind the rear wall of the refrigerator there is a black barrel-shaped casing. The casing is hermetically sealed. There are three copper tubes coming out of it. two are responsible for feeding and returning freon, the third (sealed) is needed for charging the refrigerant. Inside the shell is the electric motor, piston cylinder, and valve.

Compressor motor is an asynchronous electric motor. It consists of a stator (service and start winding) and a rotor (rotating armature). On the rotor are the crankshaft, the rocker arm (rod) and the piston. The motor is made with the piston cylinder and hangs on four springs. The springs are supposed to smooth out the vibrations during operation.

The motor heats up to 100 degrees Celsius during operation. At the bottom of the casing there is some mineral oil which is transformed by the temperature into an aerosol and is supplied together with the freon into the circulation system. An oil pump inside the rotor shaft supplies the system, as well as the bearings, piston and valve.

On the outside of the housing there is a starter relay for the starting protection function. The relay not only supplies electrical current to the motor, but also protects it from overheating and jamming.

Important information: Inverter compressors are more preferable in terms of energy consumption and durability, but they cost more than classic compressors.

Compressor malfunctions

Signs of compressor breakage

Several. the motor starts humming, does not turn on, warms up, works continuously, turns on and immediately goes off, vibrates, the temperature in the chamber of the refrigerator does not go down. Not all of these signs indicate a problem with the compressor itself.

Below we will list the causes of these signs:

  • Freon leakage;
  • malfunction of the thermostat;
  • temperature sensor malfunction;
  • Starting relay failure.
  • cable breakage;
  • motor malfunction;
  • compressor breakage.

In addition to the causes listed above, there may be very minor changes that cause your refrigerator to malfunction: a blown outlet, a torn power cord, a broken seal on the refrigerator door. We will not consider such malfunctions because it is possible to find them without reading this article.

Diagnose and determine the cause

Before engaging in compressor repair, determine, step by step, the operability of all other elements of the circulation system.

Try the temperature of the condenser behind the back of the refrigerator with your hand. If the compressor is running and the condenser temperature does not differ from room temperature, there is most likely a refrigerant leak.

Thermostat malfunction

The thermostat is the little spring under the round plastic handle in your refrigerator. When the temperature drops, it shrinks and disconnects the electric circuit, when the temperature rises, it opens and connects the circuit. Thus, the compressor turns on and off and maintains the temperature in the chamber.

You can check the serviceability of this element with a multimeter, by measuring the voltage on it.

Sensor and start relay malfunction

The sensor is a bimetallic plate that reacts to the motor temperature and opens the circuit if it rises sharply. The starter relay is a solenoid that energizes and de-energizes the stator winding to start the motor.

A characteristic sign of malfunction is that the compressor turns on for a few minutes and then turns off.

Checked by measuring the voltage at the sensor and relay with simultaneous measurement of the stator winding resistance. the resistance will be nominal.

The reason of breakage can be a breakage or burnout of motor cable. Using a multimeter (pliers), check the amperage. For a motor whose power is equal to 140 kW, the current strength is 1.3 A. For engines with other capacities this ratio will remain the same. If the current intensity differs from the given values, the cable must be replaced.

Important: Check insulation resistance before checking cable for continuity. To do this, place the ends of the multimeter on the cable contact and the refrigerator body. A reading other than infinity indicates that the refrigerator is shot through. In this case it is better to contact service.

Compressor malfunction

If all the elements of the circulation circuit have been checked and work properly, it is necessary to diagnose the work of the compressor. The characteristic metallic noise in the shell during operation can serve as a sign of its breakage. It is a compressor valve defect.

You can accurately determine the defect by cutting the third filling tube and the filter-drier and connecting them to the gauge manifold. After the blower is turned on, the pressure generated by a good compressor must be 30 atm.

After checking the correctness of the valves, we proceed to the diagnostics of the motor. There can be three motor defects:

The first reason will be evidenced by the absence of any operation of the motor when plugging the fridge into the network. At that, the breakage can occur on one of the windings or on both of them at the same time.

The second reason can be evidenced by a short (1-2 minutes) run of the motor before it has been switched off and also by the fact that it has heated up considerably. After a few minutes after the windings have cooled down, the motor will restart for 1-2 minutes.

Rotor jamming can be judged by the typical humming of the motor without the refrigerant circulation in the system. Resistance of windings in this case will exceed nominal.

Replacement of the compressor motor

If after the diagnostics, you are convinced that the cause of the refrigerator breakdown is a faulty motor-compressor, the defective part will have to be replaced. It is impossible to repair it at home. As we said in the beginning of the article, it is better to invite an experienced professional with their own tools and spare parts. But if the price of the issue does not suit you, you will have to do everything yourself.

The compressor is a spare part, which is quite possible to buy at the market or in a specialized store. You can buy a used compressor for a reasonable price.

To remove and install the compressor motor, you will need tools: torch, pliers, freon accumulator with a hose, selection valves, a device for cutting tubes, copper tubing.

Sequence of Operations

Follow the following diagram on the replacement, so as not to miss anything:

  • With pliers squeeze the two copper tubes for freon.
  • Start the refrigerator in operation for 5 minutes (the freon should be liquid).
  • Connect the third charging tube and the freon accumulator with a hose.
  • Open the valve on the storage tank and collect the freon for a minute.
  • Detach start relay from compressor shroud.
  • Unplug the power cord.
  • Cut off copper tubing from compressor.
  • Remove the old compressor motor.
  • In reverse order, install and connect the new motor-compressor.
  • Using a gas torch, solder three copper tubes: first the filling tube, then the return tube and then the delivery tube.
  • First charge 40% of the freon in the circulating system.
  • Run the refrigerator for 5 minutes, check the tightness of all components.
  • Charge the remaining Freon.
  • Compress the fill tube and then solder.
  • Turn the refrigerator into operation, check the temperature in all the chambers.

Fix the leak in a two-chamber refrigerator

Details Author: evgenij Category: Repair of two-compartment refrigerator with weeping system View: 31236

Please note that this article will discuss modern two-chamber refrigerators. I will write a separate article about the refrigerators manufactured in the late eighties and early nineties, because the repair is made in two completely different ways. If in your unit the freezing chamber is in the top, and in the refrigerating compartment on a back wall, the water flows down on plastic, to eliminate the leak, in such technics, practically impossible, there are exceptions, for example when the freezer on a prominent place has dug. I have a video on my channel where I solder the freezing evaporator after it was pierced with a knife, you can watch this video a little bit below, and now we will talk about those refrigerators which not only can, but also should be repaired, we will talk about the bottom freezing chamber. In these refrigerators, you can install a weeping evaporator in the refrigerator compartment in case of a leak, and it’s also quite realistic to take the evaporator out of the freezer compartment and check it. In general below we will consider how to define whether there is a leak and how to install the patch on the two-chamber refrigerator. Now to return to the topic of those units that are not repairable, as I said above, sometimes happens that the freon leak occurs in a prominent place, in this case it is possible to seal the leak and fill the refrigerator with the refrigerant, about this you can see a video, right under this paragraph

Watch a video on how to seal the freezer and fix a leak in the foam part of your refrigerator

Refrigerator Atlant, which is not worth repairing

Two-compartment refrigerators, in which the freezer is on top, are considered disposable. Be attentive if they suggest you to recharge it with freon and they convince you that it will work as good as new don’t trust and don’t agree in any case. In 90% of the refrigerator after a simple recharging will work a month maximum. You have to understand that if the refrigerant is gone once, it will happen again the next time

Fixing the Freon leak in the modern two-chamber refrigerator

Now here comes the most interesting part, namely the installation of the weeping evaporator. You should understand that such actions can be carried out only in those fridges in which the freezing chamber is at the bottom. Installation of crying evaporator is possible in almost all brands, without exception, even in such brands as Samsung, LG, Liebherr, not to mention Indesit, Atlant, Nord. To be honest, I don’t remember at which unit I did it, to my mind it was a NORM or ATLANT fridge. Despite the fact that this article is mostly informative, I think for beginners, this instruction will be quite useful in their work, and ordinary users will probably not be uninterested to know how their refrigerator will look like after this repair. To begin with let’s list the things that show that there is a leak of refrigerant in your fridge

  • Condenser at the back of the fridge is cold → this is due to the fact that the refrigerant does not condense in it, the usual consequences of no refrigerant or clogged capillary and filter
  • The refrigerator does not turn off → Many people blame the thermostat in this case, but in most cases, such behavior of the unit indicates a leak or clogged capillary
  • The usual consumer cannot even guess that refrigerating and freezing chambers, is one system and if the leak occurs in any part of this system, the cold at first leaves from the refrigerator and only then, this problem gets up to the freezer

I’ve probably listed all the signs of a freon leak. We need to talk separately about the capillary and the filter in the system. To determine if these two parts are clogged or not is possible only when you open the system. One more thing, in some cases it can leak in the defrost circuit, usually between the refrigerator compartment and the freezer compartment, under the intermediate strip

How to spot a freon leak in a two-chamber refrigerator

To begin with, in units with the freezer on the bottom, it’s possible to check it. Very seldom but it happens nevertheless the leakage is in the freezing chamber and in order not to do the work in vain it is necessary to take out the evaporator from the case, inflate it with air and dip it in hot water. In my practice there were only a few cases of the refrigerant leakage in this compartment, I mean that it happens seldom, but it is desirable to check it

If there is no any coolant leak in freezing evaporator compartment we can proceed to the next step, it is necessary to check the defrosting contour. It is a tube that goes along the body of the refrigerator and runs between the freezer and refrigerator compartment. Its function is to heat up the part of the case where the gasket is, to allow the condensate to evaporate. In the picture below you can see the intermediate bar that stands between the two compartments, just under it there is a Freon leak. Pay attention to this strip, if it is very rusty, it is quite possible that the leak is here. To check, you need to pump air into the defrost circuit, then either with a soapy solution or special reagents to determine the leak

What is a weeping evaporator

After checking everything, by method of elimination, we are left with only one weeping board. About this component I will tell a little bit more in detail. Let’s have a look at the weeping evaporator. it is a detail that has the form of a metal sheet and thanks to which the cooling of products in the refrigerating chamber. It works on the principle, froze then melted. Probably many people have paid attention to the fact that on the rear wall of the refrigerating compartment the water runs down or on the contrary the whole rear wall is covered by a slight frosting, it happens because during the operation of the motor this evaporator begins to get cold and when the motor is switched off the evaporator begins to get positive temperature and as a result the frost melts. Practically in all two-chamber refrigerators with weeping defrosting system, the process of switching-off the engine is led by the weeping board, that is if the temperature on its walls is not the put one, the thermostat never in life will not give a signal to switch-off the refrigerator. In the photo on the side you can see the weeping evaporator, before it was installed, pretty much the same one behind the plastic. In this case we will take it outside and it will help the refrigerator to work longer than when it was bought from the store

Installing a weeping evaporator on a two-compartment refrigerator

Finally we come to what needs to be done to fix the leak in the foam part of a two-compartment refrigerator. I used to cut the pentane out of the back of the unit, like many craftsmen, in order to get the evaporator out of there or find a leak and solder it. But then what happens is that after seemingly everything was done perfectly, I get reworked. The thing is that after soldering, this evaporator sometimes had another leak, as a result I had to redo the job. With the second option, I mean replacing the fin and installing it in its old place, it was not all smooth either. The biggest challenge, was that it was very difficult to glue the plastic to the board, and not only the cold, but also the service life depends on it

Now let’s have a look at what to expect after installing a weeping evaporator to your fridge, or rather what we will achieve and how in the future, it will affect the operation of your refrigerator

  • Together with the weeping board is usually changed and the capillary tube. this is a definite plus, because during the operation of the refrigerator, it is very often clogged
  • The weeping evaporator, which is brought to the outside, serves much longer than the one behind the plastic. this is the law of physics. The thing is that it is aluminum and if it will be in a confined space, and also constantly in water, then after a short time, it will rot, in principle, this is what happens with the factory installation
  • When doing this work, usually disconnect the defrost circuit, just in case, believe me it must be done. From practice I will say that after this appendix is cut, refrigerators rarely rust, in any case 7-8 years pass without any problems



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