How to Diagnose a Worn Out Washing Machine Bearing
If you suddenly feel that your machine has started “tapping” or vibrating excessively when spinning, that’s one sure sign that the bearings in the drum are worn out. Sometimes, the machine is noisy as usual, but the drum does not rotate. Other signs of problems with the bearing in the washing machine:
- The washing machine is “buzzing”, but the drum does not spin.
- The body of the washer vibrates strongly.
- The machine “refuses” to spin the laundry, despite the fact that this mode is enabled.
- When loading the laundry, the drum swings violently on the axis of rotation.
How to remove and replace the bearing from the drum of a front-loading washing machine
In this case, first of all prepare the tools. This process is more labor-intensive, because we will have to take out the drum. Consider the whole process using the example of working with automatic washing machines brands Samsung, model s-1052. We have purposely taken a standard model to show the principle of bearing replacement on the example of working with it, which will be suitable for similar work with many other household appliances of this type.
How to clean a washing machine with citric acid. Read reviews of the procedure and precautions, advantages and disadvantages of this method of cleaning, traditional ways to get rid of limescale. in the publication.
The bearing is so noisy, that when you spin it, it feels like an airplane flies up in the bathtub. Why did I choose the vertical one?
It seemed at once that this machine is more reliable and technologically advanced.к. The drum is supported by two axles and two bearings. I think it is clear why. No forces applied at an angle to the bearing, as in frontal machines.2. The tank has one opening on top. Overflow is only possible through the drum half axles or when the tank is completely full. Both are highly unlikely. First tested on this fact, t.к. there was a small leak through the gland and the bearing, making it noisy and corroded.3. Overall repairability is much higher than that of the front ones, many times higher, t.к. there is practically full access to all units only by removing one side cover. Remove two. The machine is almost disassembled. (WARNING). With both covers removed, the machine loses its vertical rigidity. )4. 4 years, the car served as a changing table for the baby in the bathroom, since.к. it has an almost horizontal surface of a decent size.
From the pictures below it will be all clear how to replace the leaking bearing. As I understand the repair of vertical machines Zanussi and Electrolux is absolutely identical, t.к. left and right calipers are the same for all upright machines.
The lime scale formed over 7 years, to which the fluid with the “means” does not reach the axles in any mode, wiped like sandpaper on the gland, and then it went on and on. Grounding contact had to be cut off, but there is a hole for a self-tapping screw that can be fixed after cutting the plastic rivet. To be seen below. There was something unclear written on the caliper. 632305222316434, but that’s bullshit.к. The catalog is here. http://www.catalogoebi.it/, on page 13. There are probably other manufacturers, but these were in the store. Left and right are different. The threads on the body are different. I do not know which is which, but one has a code 061 in the catalog and the other 062. The 062 comes with a cap that was not in the car, but it is needed. The Italians are good. for the manufacturer thought.
Went to the nearest store bought two pieces of iron, drilled two holes d = 6mm and one d = 8mm in the middle (the side do not count, just to lengthen the handle, bolts M6 45mm, M8 25mm) and got a puller:
I think everything is clear with the puller. It should be rotated STRICTLY in the direction shown on the caliper body with an arrow “open”. In my case, clockwise.
Rotate at 60 degrees, unscrew central bolt at 120 degrees. Otherwise the construction will bend. And so several times, then unscrew the central bolt completely and effortlessly remove the caliper. Take out the new bearing from the bag, abundantly smear the lips of the gland with the attached lubricant. There are grooves there. right to the bottom. And screw everything back in. WARNING! replacement is done. Below is the self-tapping screw on the grounding drum contact.
Instructions for replacing the bearing in the washing machine
Important! The bearing repair can not be delayed, as it will lead to failure and replacement of the cross. If you are not ready to repair the machine yourself, please contact me, I will fix your washing machine qualitatively and cheaply. I have repaired with my own hands thousands of cars. I always arrive on time and work without intermediaries.
Preparation and disassembly of the washing machine
Once the machine is disconnected from the power supply and house utilities, you can proceed to disassemble the unit. To carry out the work, you need free access to the machine, so it is better to move it to a spacious room or garage. So, the algorithm of further actions will be as follows:
- The first thing to do is to remove the right side panel of the housing, to do this you will have to unscrew the three screws located on the back. In most vertical machines, the pulley is located exactly on the right side;
- Carefully pull the drive belt from the pulley;
- Using a screwdriver, unscrew the bolt holding the drum sheave.
The first part of the work is the easiest and usually does not cause difficulties. Taking the pulley of the drum, remove it to the side. Now we can move on to the main stage of the repair process.
When replacing bearings you will need a whole list of tools, and what kind of tools will be clear in the process, because there is no single list for the reason that different models of washing machines have different construction and different tools are also needed. That’s exactly what you’ll need:
Open-jaw wrenches with sizes from 10 to 19;
Socket wrenches of similar dimensions. 10 to 19;
A chisel, but a better one. A special tool for knocking out the bearings;
The right tools and details
For this task we need to almost completely disassemble the washing machine. And of course we will need the following tools. What we need?
- Screwdrivers (slotted and Phillips).
- A special screwdriver with various bits.
- Set of wrenches of various sizes.
- Waterproof sealant.
- Chisel (blunt).
- Rubber mallet.
- A big regular hammer.
We also need oil seals and bearings. Screwdrivers (slotted and Phillips screwdriver) are available at various service and specialty stores. If you do not know any such organization, then just type in Yandex, Google or another search engine: “Buy bearings for the washing machine” to this query is better to add the name of your city. For example, “buy bearings”. In the search results you can find companies who sell the parts. Give them the make of your machine. After that, they will inform you about the cost of spare parts. In a pinch, you can first remove the old parts and then pick up the exact same new ones.
Getting to the tank-drum unit
Bearing replacement requires partial disassembly of the dispenser. But before you start repairing, you should prepare the machine and the workplace. The machine is disconnected from utilities and moved to the center of the room, next to it is placed an electric screwdriver, screwdrivers and WD-40. Next, begin to work.
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two retaining screws (on Whirlpool they are located on the rear of the lugs).
- Disconnect the detergent basket from the basket by pulling the handle.
- Unhook the dashboard by loosening the screws around the perimeter.
- Pick up with a screwdriver the false panel at the bottom right of the machine and remove it to the side.
- Open the hatch and loosen the external clamp on the cuff (gently pry the clamp with a slotted screwdriver).
- Inserting the cuff into the drum.
- Find UBL and carefully disconnect wiring connected to it.
- Unscrew the bolts fixing the Whirlpool front panel.
- Remove the front bezel and set it aside.
Before repairing the washing machine must be de-energized and disconnected from the water supply.
After removing the front panel will open free access to the tank and drum. But do not immediately remove the containers from the housing. first you must unhook all the pipes and wires connected to them. It is recommended to follow the following sequence:
- remove the filler neck;
- Disconnect pipes running to the detergent tray;
- Remove the metal bezel behind the housing;
- Release the counterweights by loosening the central bolts;
- Disconnect the thermistor by removing the wires from the terminal;
- Remove the heating element from the wiring and remove it from the housing;
- Unhook the clamps that fix the plastic panel of the tank;
- remove the panel.
All! The hardest work is done. Whirlpool washing machine disassembled to the tank with the drum. Only need to reset the drive belt and dislodge the bearings from the shaft. How to do it, let’s tell in detail.
Washing machine with vertical loading
Washing machine with a vertical load
Washing machine with vertical load advantage or disadvantage?
The advent of washing machines has greatly simplified our life. The most common type of such appliances are drum models laying laminate flooring price per job. There are vertical loading and front loading of washing machines. Choosing appliances for washing, buyers often do not know what type to give preference to.
On post soviet space vertical washing machines still become popular, but in Europe they make the basic percent of sales. Explain this is easy washing machines with vertical loads have several advantages over the front-loading type:
• Practicality. Such machines are very compact. They can be placed against the wall on any side that does not have a hatch, they are ideal for small-sized bathtubs.
Reliability. The most common breakdown of washing machines is bearing failure, which carries a heavy load. In a washing machine with a vertical load the drum is mounted on two bearings, that is, this model has a high level of reliability.
HOW TO REPLACE BEARINGS ON SEALED WASHING MACHINE DRUM.
When listing the advantages of a washing machine with a vertical load, we should not forget about the disadvantages of such equipment. First of all, it is a small range of models and limitations in design. In addition, many housewives are used to putting things on the washing machine, and the machine with vertical loading does not dispose to this.
Today many people would like to choose a washing machine with vertical load, because they are convinced that this option will be a decent analogue to the usual front-loading machine. It should be noted that in terms of the set of functions, these two types are not inferior to each other, so that, in fact, the choice of “vertical”. it is a matter of taste replacement door seal refrigerator. Of course, the main criterion for choosing a washing machine with a vertical load is its “mobility”. Many positive reviews on washing machines with a vertical load focus on this point. In addition, most vertical machines have castors, which allows you to change the location of equipment.
As for the price, then the review of washing machines with vertical loads showed that they are a little more expensive than front-loading machines. The price was affected by the complexity of assembling “vertical machines”. In addition, the repair of an upright washing machine will cost a little more than that of a front-loading one. The serviceability of an upright machine is inferior to a conventional model, because of the density of parts inside the housing. However, experts say that “vertical machines” break down less often, too.
Despite the fact that the front-loading machines are still in the lead, the washing machine with a vertical loader is gaining popularity. Mainly “vertical machines” are attractive due to their compact size. Families with children are also increasingly buying these models, because an upright washing machine is safer than a front-loading one. And in terms of quality they are not inferior to large-size machines.