The fan with a humidity sensor does not turn off
Can you tell me how to fix the situation: In the bathroom, the fan is turned on by the humidity sensor (HIG-2 SolerPalau).
But since, even minimal, humidity does not occur that often, there is no exhaust ventilation in the bathroom (it is very stuffy). Thought about how to make to turn on the fan with the sensor forcibly (all the other wires are not available). I jumpered the contacts (in the diagram, where the switch is) did not help. Help! How to do? Or give other advice. Thank you.
First of all, try the humidistat regulator to the maximum position. But it is good, you will always have to turn the regulator.
Alwol wrote : Jumper pins (in the diagram, where the switch is) did not help.
You should not jumper on the switch but on the contacts of the humidistat, the contacts that are written in the semiconductor. Your humidistat has a cable with power from the ventilator and your sensor is 99% more likely to be wired to the humidistat. You have to take the switch, put it near the sensor and wire it in such a way that it is possible to run the ventilator without the sensor. There is nothing complicated, only the phase is switched.
Kim wrote : First, try the humidity set point adjuster to the maximum position
The humidity regulator was immediately set to 40%, but it only turns on when we use the shower (someone said that this value at the sensor = 60%).
Kim wrote: Do not jumper on the switch but on the pins of the humidistat itself, those are the pins that are in the seme on the website that you wrote. It is 99% more likely that you have a cable with power to your sensor and from the fan
The wires are more complicated: four wires come out of the tile and right into the humidity sensor. I did not understand from your answer, what to short? L and N ? I did not short-circuit these pins.
Alwol wrote : L and N ? I didn’t make those contacts.
sansan21 wrote : 2Alwol Kim wrote PHASE (L)
I put a jumper, as you have in the diagram the fan did not turn on.
I connected the pins briefly for fear of burning the sensor, nothing happened. Maybe you need more time to close the contact?
Alwol wrote : four wires come out of the tile and straight into the humidity sensor.
That’s what I’m talking about two wires L and N and two wires to the fan. In principle, you can connect phase-zero and motor input at once. And you can do it like in the picture at sansan21
Alwol wrote : I connected the pins briefly for fear of burning the sensor,
If you have correctly identified the contact, then you will not burn anything
Alwol wrote: The humidistat was immediately set to 40%
That’s why I said you can start it one time if you set the set point adjuster to the maximum humidity.
Thanks. Today or tomorrow (we don’t live there all the time) I will try to short out the pins again.
2Alwol Only once again carefully understand the terminals where the hygrometer, where the timer. Note that the hygrometer turns on the timer and the timer turns on the fan motor. You need to force the timer to start, not short the hygrometer pins.
sansan21 wrote : Just make sure you check the terminals again
I will connect it like you showed in the diagram and wait for the fan to turn on. Under the back cover of the ditcher is also marked, as in the diagram.
2sansan21 Dear sansan21, could you tell me what the humidity sensor is? Some substance that, when absorbing moisture, changes its resistance? Or conductors sprayed on the insulator plate, the moisture, settling, changes the parameters (resistance, inductance)? Is it possible to make this device (the sensor itself) by yourself?? I know, in the industry are used moisture sensors based on the measurement of dielectric constant of air (microwave), they are quite expensive. It seems to me, household appliances, which are not so critical to the accuracy of measurement, should contain a cheaper solution.
2eXelenz Dear eXelenz, honestly pioneer, I DON’T KNOW! I’m a mechanical engineer by training, but I’m not an electronic engineer. But something tells me it’s not that simple. 2Alwol And by the way, what it is marked? I first thought it was a hygrometer, but then where is the timer? In short, I would do as Kim advised, but with a loop-through switch. In one position of the switch works regular scheme (the sensor is included in the circuit), in the other the fan runs directly from the mains, bypassing the sensor.
Wired the contacts, as indicated in the diagram. Sensor turns on and works as long as the contacts are closed. For convenience, it would be nice to make it so that after closing (by pass or other switch) the timer would turn on and you don’t have to think about not forgetting to turn the fan off. Can you tell me how to do this, if it is possible to do.
Alwol wrote: The sensor turns on and works as long as the contacts are closed.
Alwol wrote: For convenience, it would be nice to make it so that after the short circuit (or other switch) turned on a timer and did not have to think about not forget to turn off the fan.
I think that here you need to get into the innards of the sensor, simple switching terminals can not do. And then, of all the fan models I know with built-in timers, you still have to turn them off! The timer works the set time AFTER it is turned off. For example, I have one in the toilet, the fan turns on along with the light, after lights out it runs for 2 minutes. And in the bathroom is a simple fan, with its own switch.
The design and rules of operation
The timer is a single-sided printed circuit board on which the elements are mounted. The DD1 component is connected on the conductor side, the other components are installed on the other side.
To protect the printed circuit board from moisture, it is recommended that it be coated with a moisture-resistant varnish.
The most common type of timers is connected to 220V and has a signal wire input from a light bulb. In other words, the timer is always connected to power and the fan is connected to it. When you turn on the light in the bathroom to the timer receives a signal and starts the countdown, after which the hood turns on. When the light turns off, the power to the signal wire goes out and the timer starts counting down. until the light turns off.
How to connect a fan in the bathroom to the switch 3 mistakes and wiring diagrams.
Connecting a bathroom exhaust fan can be done in several ways.
The first options have a lot of inconvenience, at first not very noticeable.
For example, you have installed a hood switch on the door opening sensor. In this case, it turns off on a timer after 5 minutes. Seems very convenient.
But on the interior door is quite problematic to install such a sensor. Not to mention the other moments of operation. For example what to do if you stay longer in the toilet than the set time.
Open and close the door again? And if there are guests in the kitchen?
In addition, the cables will have to be led under the tiles, drill a few extra holes, etc.п. Simple motion sensors, on the other hand, are capricious to humidity and fail very quickly.
Have to choose expensive models with appropriate IP humidity protection, according to the zones in the bathroom.
Some people find it most convenient to install a switch on the hood directly inside the bathroom. But the Electrical Code of Practice forbids this.
Why is it so, the relevant links and explanations of specialists Rostechnadzor will be given at the end of the article.
Therefore, let’s consider the correct and most reliable way. connection from the switch to the light, located on the outside of the bathroom.
You will need very few materials for installation:
Which of them is better to choose, read the article “The best cable for wiring NYM or VVGNG-Ls.
The body of most of the hoods is plastic, so these models do not need to ground. If you have ventilation with metal elements, it already requires a 4-core cable 41.5 mm2
The loads here are small, so these controversial for many terminals, will be quite appropriate here. You do not need any stranding, followed by welding, soldering or crimping.
In our market the most popular model ERA. That’s what we will consider in more detail.
Other mechanisms and models with timer from Vents, Ballu, Electrolux are connected in the same way.
Here are technical specifications and details on all popular models:
These timer fans have two modes of operation:
The modes are switched on the control board in the upper right corner.
There are similar jumpers available from other manufacturers.
When operating in the “toilet” mode, after turning on the light and turning on the power to the board, the ventilation immediately starts working. Once the light is turned off, the fan does not stop, but will continue to spin for a certain amount of time.
This time you set yourself by unscrewing the adjusting screw with a screwdriver.
In bath mode, the operation is slightly different. This mode is suitable for showers and bathrooms without a toilet.
For example, if you take a shower or bath, the noise of the blades and draughts will only interfere. So when you turn on the light in the room, the fan does not work.
All this is controlled just from the light switch, standing in the hallway.
Usually there is a junction box with wires above this switch. It can have three cables:
How to connect, and what will be the connection diagram of all these wires in the distribution box and on the fan itself? Schematically it can be drawn as follows:
To connect all the contacts, from the box to the location where the fan is installed, you will need to lay another cable VVGNG-Ls 31.5 mm2.
The cable ends are stripped on both sides and signed.
Twist nothing, put everything on the clamps Wago.
First you connect the L phase, to the main power cable coming from the switchboard.
That’s why you connect one phase conductor of the cable directly up to the light switch.
That’s why a three wire cable is used here. If you have a bathroom comes in only 2 wires, to implement a circuit with a timer will not work.
Phase T, which is fed to the timer of the fan, is connected after the switch. That is, to the wire that goes to the lights in the bathroom.
So it is the light switch that controls the ventilation. It remains to properly connect all the wires on the fan itself.
Remove the protective frame to get to the contacts.
In the upper right corner there is a timer. Immediately adjust it to the approximate time of operation. There is a wide range of adjustments. 15 seconds to 45 minutes.
Some have it screwed almost to zero from the factory. As a result, the blades stop spinning immediately after lights out.
People think the hood is broken. Although it was enough just to tighten the screw.
Now connect the cables to the appropriate terminals:
Note if you have only two wires phase and zero, then to make the system work at least in manual mode, you will have to make a jumper between the terminals N and T.
Then the device will only work when the light switches on and off. No automation and time delays are out of the question here.
Even on some models affects the correct connection of the zero. N and phase. L conductor. If your fan behaves incomprehensibly and works or refuses to work correctly, try reversing them.
Check the indicator light, exactly where the phase comes and once again check the diagram shown in the passport of the device.
It is better to make fasteners on glue or sealant.
Drilling holes for dowels is often problematic:
Another good option. This is the connection of the fan through the same light switch, but already two-key.
Here the scheme will look like this:
In fact, you will have the hood sitting independently of the lighting. But for this, most likely, you’ll have to change the one-button model on a two-button. Plus pull the extra cable from the switchboard down.
There are also pitfalls. First, do not mix up the phase connection on the contacts of the switch.
Secondly, do not forget that through this switch should break phase, not zero. Even with the correct initial connection, over time, the circuit can change by itself.
It is enough for some local electrician to accidentally swap two conductors L and N in the common switchboard or entrance wiring. And you have the whole apartment will automatically change the “polarity” on all the switches.
How this will threaten? Well, for example, if you turn on only one fan with the second button, you may have a flashing, flickering and going out LED light in the toilet.
The effect is quite famous for LED lights.
If you have initially refused to use junction boxes and use for switching deep sub-sockets, then the third connection scheme will be similar, and the differences are almost invisible.
It’s just that all the connections are made directly in the socket. You can crimp or to the same Vago clamps, if space allows.
There are also expensive smart models with remote controls.
In the Sixth Edition of the Code of Practice of the Electric Power Industry, n.a.7.1.39 explicitly stated that the installation of switches in bathrooms and toilets is prohibited.
In the 7th edition of the PUE, n.7.1.52, the wording was slightly changed, and the definition of “switchgear” was extended to “switchgear” and “controlgear”.
But they left a loophole for models with cords.
But many people have doubts about the interpretation of “outdated” rules. After all, there are other clauses that seem to contradict the above. For example n.7.1.47
That is, as though it is possible to put a switch, but only to do it in a zone 3. Same place as the sockets.
In houses with improved planning, there are such sizes of bathrooms that zone 4 can be found if you try hard.
In small apartments, apart from the first two zones, nothing else will fit.
But how do you do that?7.1.52? Maybe it’s more relevant to public buildings than to ordinary apartments and houses?
This is what an expert who is directly related to all these rules answered to these contradictions:
You can build whatever you like, no one forbids it. You can connect the sockets with loops.
Some even in private homes, instead of overhead entry, they bury LV-ABC wires in the ground and nothing happens.
But if this object will be delivered according to the Acts, the conclusion of the energy supervisory board most likely you will not get. And you have to redo everything.
And finding such a moisture-proof switch is not an easy task.
Otherwise, because of the moisture on the contacts, you firstly, after a while these same contacts will burn up and will spark, with unpredictable consequences.
And secondly, because of the leakage currents, which will certainly be present at such a switch, you will be tortured to look for the cause of false tripping RCD.
If you don’t have one, expect an electric shock. At first a slight tingle, but then who knows?
What’s more, even if it’s a touch-sensitive switch, there’s a prohibition.
Bathroom exhaust fan not turning off ��
It is allowed to install them inside only if powered by batteries or extra-low voltage sources. Here’s another expert’s answer:
2 Connection of the fan from the internal electrical wiring of fixtures located in the bathroom.
Seemingly the easiest and least expensive variant. But do not forget that for the correct work of the fan, on its control board should always be present voltage, regardless of whether the light in the bathroom or not.
And if you power the ventilation from the nearest light bulb, it will work only as long as the same light bulb lights up.
If you turn off the light when you come out of the bathroom, the exhaust is also turned off, so the room is not properly ventilated. And when bathing in the bathroom, you do not want to feel a constant draft from the ventilation shaft. And if you have quite a powerful and productive fan?
3 The use of various kinds of remote sensors (not initially built in the fan itself). of movement, humidity, etc.д.
There is not much of a mistake here, but as mentioned above, in the process of operation you may encounter some inconvenient moments.
In addition, if you read the rules strictly, these same sensors, in fact, are nothing more than a control device.
And to place them inside sanitary rooms, without appropriate protection and performance, again it is not recommended.
And do not forget about their short life cycle and possible glitches with spontaneous switching on and off.
How to connect a fan with a moisture sensor: the subtleties of connection and installation rules of choice
Condensation, high humidity, unpleasant odor and fungus on the walls are problems that arise when there is no ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. You should agree that blackened joints between tiles spoil the look of any room. In addition, such a neighborhood is harmful to health. That’s why many homeowners arrange forced ventilation by installing fans. The most functional models which are equipped with various sensors and timers.
This article is about such devices with hygrostat. We will break down in detail why to install an exhaust device, what to pay attention to when buying a duct fan. We also detail how to connect the fan with a humidity sensor and share our working schemes.
Reviews for axial exhaust fan Awenta Retis100 D100 mm 35dB 105 m³/h humidity sensor color white
Buyer’s photos /
Popular reviews Eugene September 15, 2021. The humidity sensor does not work. Because of this the fan doesn‘t turn off. We had to unsolder the sensor. Now the fan runs on a timer. turned on the light. The fan also works on a timer. If you set it to at least 3 minutes after turning off the light, it turns off after 3 minutes Advantages: Price disadvantages: Moisture sensor does not work / Nikita Orlov Supplier representative “Interstroyvent” Thank you for your feedback, Eugene. We remind you that during the warranty period you are entitled to warranty repairs, exchanges, and do not need to make your own manipulations to repair and upgrade the device. We provide comprehensive support during the warranty and post-warranty period. All questions can be addressed to us at isvent@isvent.Ru with the subject line of the letter “to the service center”. From Sergey May 18, 2019. All in all a great fan. I’m the only one who has a problem. Wired to the light switch and to the fan with three wire, and now there is voltage pickup in that wire. This voltage in the wire, which is responsible for turning on the fan when the light turned on, was enough to turn on the fan. It turns out that the electronics as it perceives that the light is constantly on, and, accordingly, the fan does not turn off. If you disconnect this wire from the fan, it normally turns off on a timer. If I knew beforehand, I would have wired it differently, but now it’s too late. There is little information on the web to solve this problem, although it is there. There is also nothing in the product manual. Please ask the manufacturer if they can provide a solution to the problem without removing the wiring and fan. The lowered rating is only because of this problem. Actually this is the developer’s fault. Gregory Sazonov Sergey, good day! We apologize for the inconvenience! I will pass your feedback to the manufacturer of this fan. Thank you for your comment on the problem! Alexander December 25, 2017. The quality leaves much to be desired, 2 years, stopped the fan starts, sometimes it starts with great effort, winding burns Advantages: the humidity sensor is very convenient Disadvantages: 2 years after use the fan stopped spinning. Nearly caught fire in the house. Alexander Krasavin Specialist Product Suggestion Good afternoon, for you received the answer from the manufacturer: Good afternoon, Alexander. We are very sorry about that. Perhaps the rotation of the impeller is hampered due to the presence of construction dust. Also, the presence in the air of a large amount of vapors removed from the places of cooking can lead to imbalance and subsequent seizure of the motor. In such cases it is necessary to carry out periodic cleaning of the impeller and the flange. As for the possibility of fire. this is excluded, since the engine is equipped with a thermal protection circuit that shuts down when reaching a flammable temperature. We hope the response from the manufacturer was helpful to you. Sincerely Nikolay
Ventilation for the bathroom
In this room, ventilation is essential to remove the large amounts of moisture that accumulate here all the time. Thanks to the hood, the room is easy to breathe, plumbing and household items are not spoiled, there is no mold and mildew.
Recommendations of engineers when choosing ventilation for the bathroom
Engineers recommend not to buy expensive equipment of big size. The main thing is to correctly calculate the necessary power. Specialists advise to pay attention to the power of wiring in the room. Since the hood has a lot of power and pressure, it is possible to damage the cable due to overloading of the power grid. When buying takes into account the quality, its productivity, dimensions.
How to install a fan in the bathroom
During installation it is necessary to follow the rules:
- to remove the cover;
- The places that will adhere to the surface of the wall, lubricate with liquid nails or reliable glue;
- place the product in the hole in the wall (the working part is hidden);
- Press down the case well;
- Install the mosquito netting;
- Place the cover, fixing it with dowels or self-tapping screws.
At the end of the job, the wires are laid and the construction is connected from the power grid.
Principle of electrical connection
To the ventilation duct is wired separately for automatic activation by programming the device or a motion sensor. If the model has a cord, you can turn on the system mechanically.
Important! Wiring should be done using terminal blocks rather than conventional twisted-pair wires.
Control by switching the light on/off
Often the electrical equipment is turned on when the light in the room comes on. But since the hood is usually needed during bathing, this option is not very convenient. electricity is wasted, for example, during the laundry. So it is better to automate the system to save energy and extra convenience.
Why do you need a timer for your bathroom fan?
Equipped with a timer hood will turn on when the light turns on, and will turn off after a few minutes, after the person who took a shower, left the bathroom. During this time, the unit draws humid air. If the stay in the room was not long, the construction will not turn on, because there is no need for its operation.
Bathroom timer connection
The timer is a compact device. It has to be connected with 6 pins. To connect it correctly, you need to use the scheme.
Wiring diagram in the bathroom for a timer fan
Bathroom wiring diagram for a timer fan
Wiring Diagram for Bathroom Timer
Wiring diagram for a timer fan in the bathroom
Connection via a switch
Before, to be engaged in connection of power wires, it is necessary to switch off circuit breakers on a board. Then the front panel of the appliance is removed, and the wiring is inserted through the ducts.
How to connect the extractor fan to the switch
Connect the wires to the terminals located under the lid of the device. In the absence of grounding, enough 2 wires: phase and zero. The wires are connected to the terminals, secured by tightening the screws, a protective cover is put.
Option 4 manual on delay off
Here you need a special fan with a timer. It is, on average, about 500 more expensive than a normal shower. On the wall it is necessary to place a button (monostable switch), pressing of which will switch on the fan for a preset time. So we can switch the hood on whenever we want it to. It is necessary to provide this button in advance and put some clear pictogram on it, but the fan will not be noisy when it is not needed.
If you take a little more advanced fan with a humidity sensor, it will automatically turn on when the humidity increases, that is, when someone uses the shower.
At my home, by the way, implemented such a variant. I personally find it most convenient.
Smart fan for the bathroom (or how to make a complicated thing out of the simple)
So, there is a 3-storey townhouse. Respectively 3 bathrooms, 1 on the floor (so lucky, so lucky!). Ventilation is natural, the hoods on the floors are located in these very bathrooms, and on the first floor also in the kitchen and living room. Ventilation ducts are individual, seemingly correctly installed and not clogged. In the process of finishing it was noticed that the ventilation periodically rolls over, then from one hole began to blow in the opposite direction, then from another, then from several at once. I see, the windows are plastic. Air inlets are not, it’s in the future, while we open a microventilation. But, as practice shows, natural draught at temperature more than 25°C is not so effective, even with inlet valves. In short, we will have to deal with the ventilation system. In the meantime, decided to fight the consequence.We will talk about the exhaust ventilator in the bathroom, we need it there anyway. The simplest “buzzers” didn’t suit us at all. I looked at what is on sale, with sensors and timers, but what I want, there is not. I’ll try to add “intelligence” to it, if I myself do not have enough to deal with the cause.Accordingly, we drew here is the terms of reference:1. Combined bathroom, shower stall toilet. Т.е. Odors and humidity must be removed.2. Exhaust ducts are everywhere individual, no problems with other smells, no one bothers.3. The exhaust has the same function as the general. Inflow through micro ventilation for the time being, in the future. air inlets in each room.4. Check valves will be installed to block back draught.
What I want:1. Quick removal of unpleasant smells.2. Elimination of unnecessary moisture.3. Maintain the natural draught.4. Energy efficiency (work only if necessary).5. Comfort (no drafts, no noise).6. Easy connection (no extra wiring).7. Can be set up quickly.
According to these wishes was chosen such fan. Chose out of stock, mostly by price/look ratio, to close the hole completely, to look nice and inexpensive. The choice, by the way, was not very big. The option “buy ready tricked out” was not considered because of the lack of it, and so not interesting.
El.16W power. Even if you run it day and night, it adds up to 50 extra per month. Capacity 185m3/hour. Too much, of course, but as it is. Taking into account the fight against reverse thrust and maybe okay. Noise level. 35dB. A bit noisy, though. There’s only one speed. The lowered will have to do myself. The motor is asynchronous, so there is only a capacitor to play with. There is an indicator. Price. less than 1000r. The main thing. the front grille easily removable, a lot of space under the additional. items. This is a definite advantage! There is even a place for humidity sensor (there are models with it, but much more expensive).Here it is inside, nothing superfluous, plenty of room:
The way I see it working is this. Basic: as long as someone is there, the fan should run quietly and only when necessary, without causing discomfort. While no one’s around, quickly air it out, dry it out, and provide a draft without making too much noise at the same time.
The fan should run at (or switch to) a reduced speed: 1 minute after turning on the light, if the light was turned off more than 5 minutes before (primary airing if a person is present); immediately after turning on the light, if the light was turned off less than 5 minutes before (unfinished airing, someone came in after another); with the light off and humidity over 65% (removing excessive humidity).
The fan should run at full speed (or switch to it): for 5 minutes when the light is off if the light is on for more than 1 minute or less than 5 minutes after the previous switch-off (removing odours); when the light is off and humidity is over 80% (removing high humidity); for 30 minutes when the light is off and there is no draft (maintaining draft).
Fan should turn off (if it was on): immediately after lights are turned on, if lights were off more than 5 minutes before (no odors); immediately after lights are turned off, if lights were on less than 1 minute and had been off more than 5 minutes before (no odors to remove); 5 minutes after the light has been off and the light has been on for more than a minute (no smells); when the light is off and the humidity is less than 65% (normal humidity); when the light is off and there is a draft (natural draft); when the light is on and the temperature and humidity rise quickly after switching on (shower on).
Humidity/temperature measurements continuously, at 10-second intervals.Humidity/temperature values can only be displayed when the light is on.Polling of the draught sensor at 10-second intervals.If the device hangs up for some reason, it restarts automatically.If the temperature/humidity sensor is defective, it is excluded from operation and the fan will assume that the humidity is always high and work accordingly.
Manual adjustment of the parameters is possible:1. illuminance threshold by which the light switching on is determined = presence of a person (training for specific conditions);2. fan delay in relation to the light (minutes, 0 to 15, in increments of 1);3. delay of fan switch-off in relation to light switch-off (minutes, from 0 to 30, in increments of 1);4. minimum humidity at which the fan switches off (percent, 40 to 70, in increments of 5);5. maximum humidity at which the fan turns on at full speed (percentage, 50 to 80, in increments of 5);6. Continuous fan run time in draught holding mode (minutes, from 10 to 30 in increments of 5);7. possibility of switching off the fan during shower operation (yes/no);8. increment of humidity to determine shower activation (percent, from 1 to 10, in increments of 1);9. temperature increment to determine whether the shower is turned on (degrees, 1 to 10, in increments of 1).
The circuit is debugged in the simulator, soldered. The installation is now being completed.
Not yet posted, not yet tested “in real life”, it is possible changes. In general terms. two boards, one controller with a relay, the other power supply and indicators. Indicators 2 double seven-segment LEDs high 2.5cm: blue for humidity and red for temperature. Version 1 (trial, no draught sensor yet): Only the light threshold can be set. Humidity/temperature measurement and display. Functional monitoring of the sensor. Display turns off when light turns off. Fan switching on at low speed 1 minute after lights turn on. If the light was off for less than 5 minutes before switching on, or if the humidity is more than 80%, then after switching on the light the fan will immediately start at reduced speed, without a minute’s pause. Switching on the fan at full speed after lights out. Operation of the fan at full speed for 5 minutes after lights out. A fan running at reduced speed with the light off if the humidity is more than 65%. A fan running at full speed with the light off if the humidity is more than 80%.
If anyone is interested, join us. I have no experience with such fans, I’m just getting started. And with the draught sensor we need to scratch our heads as to how to make it simpler.
Causes of poor exhaust performance
Bad exhaust ventilation can not only be due to contamination of ventilation ducts and outlets, or create an artificial obstacle to the emergence of traction.
There are a number of other reasons why the extractor in the toilet and/or bathroom stops working.
- High outdoor temperatures. Circulation of air is more effective at times of the year when the temperature outside the window falls below 5 degrees.
- Installation of an axial fan. Because of the design, in the switched off condition, this type of fans interferes with the free inflow of air. Axial fan motor and blades will not move without electrical power.
- Excessively powerful exhaust units. Using too powerful a fan leads to a violation of the designed air movement in the entire ventilation system. As a result, the dispersed air does not escape to the street, but enters other rooms in the apartment building.
- Remodeling and illegal interference with the general ventilation system. As a result of the changes made may be violated airtightness of the ventilation system or one of the ducts may be blocked at all. That is why any remodeling requires approval from the state authorities.
- Improper installation of the bathroom or toilet door. Usually a problem occurs when there are no special ventilation holes in the door leaf (typical for cheap doors) and there is no clearance between the floor and the door.
- Occurrence of back draft. This problem is common on the upper floors of multi-storey buildings because of the build-up of excessive pressure in the ventilation system.
If one of the causes affects normal air circulation, the humidity in the bathroom and toilet immediately increases.
By the way, condensation is not only a sign of ventilation problems, but can also be the cause of failure of ventilation equipment. For example, as a result of improper installation of additional equipment between the fan and the draft ceiling of the ventilation system is a gap. Due to the cooling of hot air in this gap condensate is formed, which is partially absorbed and partially flows down. The condensation formed over time can destroy the fan.
We also recommend reading about the reasons why the hood may not work at all, as well as ways to fix them.
