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Is it possible to dry a putty with a hairdryer

Is it possible to dry their putty with a hairdryer?

Capital repairs in the apartment, house or any other room, at each of the stages of the construction of the building (plaster, decoration, painting), a concomitant question always arises: “Is it possible to dry the walls quickly?”, As well as” How to dry the plaster after finishing work?””.

Everyone finds a certain method for solving the issue, but we will discuss all possible methods and decide how to dry the walls correctly and in what sequence is it to do this. But first you need to understand the main thing. you can dry the walls during repair, and even necessary, and it is advisable to do this at each stage of construction or decoration.

The structure of the plaster, its features and the main errors that occur during drying

It’s no secret that the mandatory component in the composition of mixtures for plaster and putty is water. Accordingly, applying a mixture to the processed surface with a thickness of more than two centimeters, to eliminate excess moisture in the material when drained in natural conditions is practically not realistic.

Violation of the technique of drainage of finishing materials during construction work is fraught with:

It is quite difficult to identify the optimal drying of the building after finishing work. in this case, in this case, the type and quality of finishing materials, time of the year, air humidity, the area of ​​the room, layer thickness, etc.

The necessary level of the final moisture content of finishing materials, as well as the approximate time of their drying, can be found in thematic articles and technical reviews by a specific type of material. For accurately calculating the volume of moisture, which will need to be removed, and the correct choice of the method of reducing humidity, special reproduction formulas that you can find out from specialists or in other articles are used.

How to drain plaster or putty in the processed room?

Many self-respecting construction companies and Internet channels will show you that there are several techniques for draining plaster and putty after finishing work.

The simplest and most traditional way, which is used if necessary, dry the walls from dampness, is to open windows that ensure air circulation. However, this method is effective in the case of ideal parameters of humidity, temperature and air flow, which in reality it is almost impossible to achieve.

The most popular way of drying and extremely “unsafe”, in relation to the materials, are thermal guns, and now we will tell you why.

Thermal guns are small, often square or cylindrical, installations similar to thermal talents and having the same principle of action, the energy consumption of which is from 2 to 15 kW per hour. When air passes through the spiral of the heating element of the heat gun, its humidity decreases and the temperature rises, which contributes to the rapid drying of putty and plaster.

The reverse side of the drying process of the room with the help of a heat gun is that it is prohibited to direct hot air to the plastered wall, otherwise the plaster will be cracking. If, by coincidence, the air in the room has overheated, for example, they forgot to turn off the gun or open the windows, most likely the upper layer of the finish will dry out, and the internal will remain wet. Under such conditions, the inner layer will be much slower to give moisture, and may be the reason for the detachment of the upper part of the material.

In addition, if the room, with simultaneous ventilation and a working heat gun, enters cold air. the absolutely opposite effect is created: air humidity does not decrease, but increases, which, ultimately, reduces the need to use a heat gun to “no”.

Another way of effective drainage of a house or apartment after finishing work, construction, etc., is the use of an industrial air drainage.

You can find out about the use of the drainer in such cases in the article “Dnuens in construction and repair”.

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How long the plaster dries

The amount of time spent on drying the plaster depends on a number of factors, for example:

  • Type of base. If we are talking about a concrete surface, then the plaster will dry in the amount of one layer for 24 hours. And if we are talking about a wooden surface, then the first layer will dry for 14 hours. When you use plastering of drywall sheets, you can start the next step in 8 hours.
  • Type of solution. Today you can find lime, gypsum, cement-sand, acrylic and combined options. All of them differ in the quantity and varieties of incoming components, which directly affect the duration of the drying.
  • Weather. A special role is played by humidity, as well as the temperature in the room. After all, it will be best to dry the plaster at a temperature of 20 degrees, as well as with relative humidity, which does not exceed 70%.
  • The thickness and number of applied layers. The more layers, the longer the processes of drying will be carried out. Ideally, the thickness should be from 1.5 to 5 cm.

Gypsum

If you create a favorable climate in the room, you will need 7 days to dry out. But the process can drag out to 10-14 days. You can understand when the color scheme of the surface changes. In the initial state, it will be dark, and after that it will begin to acquire a light tone. Only at the end of the process can you resort to finishing.

Cement-sand

If you apply a layer of 1 mm, then it dries primarily for 24 hours. This is an ideal time to create all the conditions for drying. But, if increased humidity is observed in the room, then the time may increase. This is due to the fact that the material does not give moisture, but absorbs it from the external environment and air. If you want to dry the plaster using a construction hairdryer, then this will further affect the final strength worse. Based on this, we can say that for this plaster, a special calculation should be made for each case.

Lime

This material has been known for a long time, but today does not lose its popularity. After you applied the first layer, after 7 hours you can start applying the second. At the same time, the period of complete drying is 7-8 days.

Acrylic

Acrylic plaster belongs to rapidly drying materials. But time will depend on the thickness of the layer, humidity in the room, as well as temperature. If you applied one layer, then the complete drying will occur in 1 hour. If increased humidity is observed in the room, then the term increases to 3 hours.

Combined

The combined option is all decorative plasters. They are completely different and the conditions of application should be read on packages. As a rule, drying duration. 1 day. 2 weeks.

Is it possible to dry putty in a draft?

When using starting mixtures that are applied with a thick layer, it is not recommended to accelerate drying in any way. This will cause cracking, crowning, destruction. you can speed up the drying process by creating optimal conditions. But you can’t do a draft. this will negatively affect the surface.

The plaster is not worth drying quickly, in order to avoid cracks. If there is no frost, you can open the windows for ventilation so that moisture leaves.

Is it possible to putty walls in winter?

Those who plaster the walls in a room where there is no heating, and on the street is winter, it is necessary to add special additives that allow you to apply the solution and maintain its properties even in a negative temperature. It is more often used for external work, but you can put down the walls inside the building.

If you plaster without windows, the main thing is to correctly expose the corner between the wall and the slope. This option is best suited if the slopes are. not plaster. If the slopes are plastered, it is better to put the windows first: 1.

How to dry a thick layer of putty?

That’s right, it is necessary to dry air in the room, not the walls, t. e. you put the fan in the middle of the room, and not close to the wall. By the way, if you apply the finish putty and dry the construction hairdryer, you get cracks “under the old man”.

It is important to know how to dry the plaster with heat guns correctly.

  • Devices cannot be directed to objects in need of drying
  • The use of heating equipment does not cancel ventilation
  • Tough temperature control in the room is required
  • You can use the help of the unit for 6-8 days, to a moisture level of 8%.

How much the finish gypsum putty dries?

In addition, it increases the resistance of the main putty. The finished putty can be made of cement (from advantages. ease of use and cost), gypsum (evenly lays on the surface and forms a matte layer) and polymer (the ability to apply a thin layer). The finish putty dries at least 1 day.

According to SNiP 3.04.01-87 “insulating and finishing coatings” (table. 8), the time of drying of the putty should be no more than 24 hours, but this applies to the normative thickness. Thicker coatings can dry and several days.

possible, putty, hairdryer

How much the aluminum putty car dries?

At a temperature of 20. 25 degrees Celsius, putty dries for about 30 minutes. The time during which you need to have time to put putty is 5. 10 minutes. If you use infrared drying, you can reduce the drying time.

I do not recommend putting on a raw rotbanda. Setting up putty with a layer of plaster will not be of high quality. If there are wet spots, this does not mean that the rest of the wall has dried out well. On such a thick layer, the Rothband should be given about 2-3 days until it dries completely.

How much the first layer of putty dries?

Based on the above, you can answer the question: “How much the putty dries?””. This is 1-2 days for a thin layer and about 7 days for a putty applied to several layers to level the surface.

The mixture will dry for a week, this is typical for cement-license coating. But a quick.drying is considered gypsum rotband. How much does the rotband plaster dry before putty? Only four days are enough, and then, you can already safely start finishing work.

How to determine in appearance whether a layer of putty dried?

Each manufacturer on the package writes how many days or hours it is necessary to dry. But there are some external signs by which it is possible to determine whether it is possible to proceed to the next stage of work:

The condition of the wall before putting putty directly affects the speed of drying and the repair time. The surface can be porous, plastered or brick, absolutely smooth or uneven.

The ideal, prepared for processing, the wall looks like this: dry, has no pronounced defects and is pre.treated with a primer that improves adhesion and reduces the risk of cracks, exfoliation and deformation.

Types of putty

At the current time, the following options are most in demand:

Gypsum puttys have proven themselves in the decoration of apartments, private houses, dry premises. Have good adhesion with any base material. For a complete hardening of a layer of 3 mm, 4-6 hours are required. Saving is minimal.

Cement-lime putty are indispensable in the following situations:

Additional advantage of cement-lime putty-low price. It is used in work at large facilities, when the costs of the finish can exceed the budget.

Polymer putty are convenient in work, fit well on the surface. But there are a number of minuses:

An important advantage of polymer compounds is the minimum time for the Lesser. After 4-6 hours, you can proceed to the next stage.

Distinguish between drying time for a long time. The strength is gained within weeks and months, provided that the manufacturer’s requirements specified on the packaging are complied with. Important: primers must correspond to the selected putty in quality, composition, and durability time.

High.speed putty is super or everything falls off and sits down?

Hi all! Passions died after the video on speed repairs, or rather high.speed preparation for painting. Probably still came to tell in detail and explain what’s what. Fate brought me to Gelson with Fabrizio Ventura (right) (Fabrizio Ventura).

A man of world popularity of which is known and appreciated from Australia to America. Founder of the School of Malyarov. Restorers in Bologna at the University. There are a lot of regalia in general, but now not about regalia.Many decided that everything was so simple and twice to smear, and then blow with a hairdryer in this and the whole technology is in fact, this is not the case and the technology is quite complicated, but very fast and at the same time very high quality.Let’s first watch the video, then we will figure out what the technology is the technology.

And so the technology of quick putty is that the putty is applied into thin layers to hot (temperature from 90 to 50C) previous layer. The first layer is applied to a cold surface with a temperature of 20-25 s. Let’s look at how this technology differs from the usual.Conventional technology is either a two types of putty: with a filler made of fiberglass, as a first.a.button layer and then filler one or two application as a second layer, or a simplified version of one or two layers of filler, then drying and grinding. Let’s count the timings now. I hope nobody needs to tell and prove (although there are such Комментарии и мнения владельцев) that the time is spent very important and one thing is to earn a conditionally 50 euros for children, the second earn 100 euros, all the stories that only one hundred will earn at the same time on which this painter works for me is simply ridiculous because they pay this way for production, and not for an hour of staying on the site. This is all a polemic, but let’s get back to the technology. By the way, those who say that there was no layer, we consider the ring in the photo, each ring is 20-60 microns not counting the soil of 100 mk.

By the way, many said that putty on such a layer of material is also not good, but drying was used here by Symach robots? And this means that the material is dried on the entire thickness of the coating, by the way, you can find out more about this technology here:

I think the difference can be seen by an armed gaze) and so in the classics:

The first application of fiberglass putty. 1. 2 min. The thickness of the layer permits 500 mk.Drying of the first layer-10-15 minutes at a temperature of 20 Domination of the 2nd layer filler-1-2 min thickness, we will assume 250 mschushka layer-10-15 minutes at a temperature of 20, delaying the 3rd layer filler-1-2 min thickness for 250 μsushka layers-10-15 minutes at a temperature of 20 LESSHIC IR drying 10 min Pouza to cool 3 minutes.Grinding.Total: 45. 60 minutes, depending on the ambient temperature and so on.The advantages of which my opponents speak: gradual work, you are in no hurry, you can go to drink coffee or do other work, the solvent manages to evaporate. there will be no shrinkage.

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Application of the 1st filler layer-1-2 min. We will allow 250 mknagrev surface up to 90 s-1 minnation of the 2nd layer of filler-1 min thickness, 250 μsushka layer-30 seconds-30 seconds. At a temperature of 90-50, the 3rd layer of the filler is putting on the 3rd layer-1 min thickness, let’s say 250 mschushka layer-30 seconds. At a temperature of 90-50, the 40th filler layer is put off-1 min thickness to 250 mcopotage of the part before grinding, for example, 3 minutes in total we have: 9 minutes.Pros: 1. FAST!2. Each layer is warmed up and polymerized by increasing temperature in essence, the temperature gives much faster the start of the work of peroxide, free oxygen releases faster, which in turn makes the polymerization reactions are faster and better. more oxygen o. better and better reaction. This is for those who do not understand that this is not paint and varnish The solvent about which everyone is talking about. this is a styrene that also interferes in the reaction and eventually remains connected and will not evaporate, after polymerization, the putty no longer sits down, this is as much as possible. 1% that you visually will never see. As a result, we get a baked pie from a larger number of layers that will never sit 3. Since the system has a larger number of layers. the tension with internal stresses will be lower. the putty will burst less, contrary to the stories of opponents.four. After cooling, you can go quietly to drink coffee while competitors are panting, moving lamps and putty.))) Joke.5. When applied to the hot surface, the putty also heats up more liquid as a result of a denser free one from extra pores, the resin pops up and the layer turns out denser. the soil is less absorbed.Many people say that everything will fall off because the layer on the layer is applied to the hot and these layers will not stick together, but pay attention to the video as Fabrizio tried with your hand every time a layer, you need to catch the moment when the resin began to get up and apply The next layer? So everything will be glued, connected tightly, even cooler than in the standard application.This is all, I ask you to take into account that I considered 9 minutes instead, for example, 3 as it was with Fabrizio, while he inflicted 6 layers) which is essentially even better and much faster.

Yes, it is clear that this technology is not appropriate for working throughout the body, there is a lot of time there, but if you need to fix 1-2 details, then this technology perfectly reduces the time to repair, get the best quality and make more money as a result!

Of course, this is not beyond technology and quality will be worse than with a pistol with a pistol and, in fact, of course this is much longer. But here the mathematics of timings and expediency come again.Let’s read the article from one of the magazines that I translated for you: one of the most interesting methods used in the British Isles, which was not introduced in Europe on a wider scale. this is a method of applying products using a roller.Yes, yes, this is not a joke, but only the practical use of the roller.Of course, the application method is definitely different from staining the walls, but at the same time provides a different approach to painting than in Western Europe.Where did the idea of ​​such a solution come from? A situation often arises in the carster, when there is a need to primer a small section, and there are cars with which other work is performed or will be carried out and it is impossible to remove them from boxing. They need to be removed or closed.Of course we can reduce the pressure on the pistol, which, however, does not give quality. This is the beginning of the whole history associated with the application of soil, which is essentially related to each repair repair. One by one, a painted car and neighboring or neighboring should be disguised, you need to wash the gun after the soil, etc. D.To facilitate the repair process, especially in small coloring workshops, the application of filler soil using the roller. In small workshops, where the distribution of vehicles from place to place is limited or sometimes impossible, the method turned out to be quite effective, and it began to be used with great success in many medium and small painting workshops.How to apply a roller?Firstly, of course, it is necessary to mix the soil in the recommended proportions from the manufacturer. Apply the first thin, but closed layer for all polished areas and as widely possible. After the expiration of the evaporation (do not ignore, because when applied by the roller each layer thicker than when applying by a gun), two consecutive layers should be applied, which are limited only by areas of the previous layer. It is important to never end the next layer in the same place as the previous layer (complex matting process). It is necessary to pause like this. between the second and third layer, also maintain the recommended time of evaporation. Just as when applying with a pistol-spray, do not accelerate the evaporation of the primer with compressed air, but you can use IR drying.Advantages of the video: no dust. The possibility of applying soil in the place where the car is located without prejudice to neighboring machines. No need to cover or move the car. Simple application without the need for a pistol. The possibility of using strongly filling soils or polyester soils. No need to clean the gun.Well, if you want it, it’s not difficult to find SSlyk on the Uyutyub for such technologies from leading manufacturers.For those who only want to trumpet or say, I did so 100 times in the 90s, too, also a vidosik:

Auto putty: preparation, mixing, application, drying

Putty in painting is rightly compared with the work of the sculptor. But before giving ourselves to “art modeling”, we must very carefully approach the issue of preparing the surface for putty. After all, layers of putty masses are sometimes quite thick, and with which they will lie on the details depends on the quality of surface preparation. The preparation of the surface for putty is reduced to two mandatory requirements: the surface should be clean, and processed by abrasive material of the necessary granularity. Only the joint fulfillment of these two conditions will ensure reliable adhesion of the putty layer with the surface.

WHERE TO BEGIN? Preparation of the surface for putty

Before starting any work with the element, you always need to thoroughly rinse the element with water and degrease the surface, otherwise the dirt and silicones will remain in risk on the surface, which can then lead to the appearance of defects on the LKP.

In the technological instructions for specific material, it must be indicated, firstly, the types of surfaces suitable for applying a particular putty, and secondly, the gradation of abrasive material, which should be treated before putty. But let’s try to illuminate these technological truths again. There is a norm that the risk should be no more than 20% of the thickness of the upper layer of this risk. It is well known that before applying putty mass, the steel surface must be treated with abrasive material of gradation P80. The risk of an abrasive P80 on metal is optimal for physical adhesion of putty and is 8-10 microns, which provides, firstly, a good adhesion of the putty layer with the surface, and secondly, it eliminates the shrinkage of the putty and the manifestation of grinding scraps through the layers of coatings through the coatings. However, in cases of not continuous puttying of parts (and this is about 99% of cases of putty work), it should be remembered that a fairly thick layer of putty is applied only in the central part of the defect, and the closer to the edges of the thrown area, the thinner the putty layer, which means the risk of the risk its drawdown in rude risk increases. That is why after removing the old LKP from the repair area peripheral zones (sections of the transition from metal to old coating), or better the entire surface, should be treated with smaller gradation paper. P150 or P180. This operation will also prevent the occurrence of shrinkage on the old LKP (where there is risk from the P80), if a putty is accidentally applied there (running in advance, we note that this should be avoided). After all, the risk of P80 on the LKP is already as many as 20 microns, which is limit for putty. there may be a shrinkage. And by processing the boundaries of the LKP P150 or P180, we will lower the risk to the optimal size (the risk of abrasive P180 on the LKP is 8-10 microns). I also recommend processing naked metal the size of the risks will not be especially different, but the speed of work will double. The same reasoning also relate to the removal of various small surface defects (for example, a small scratch) with the help of argumenty putty. After all, the putty layer in such cases will be small, and the putty itself is fine.grained, so the P80 will be too rough, you need to take the paper smaller gradation (for example, P150). Under the application of liquid putty, the surface is also polished by P150. P180, and if not the entire part is covered with liquid putty, then I will advise the P240. On a plastic element, the work of rough sandpaper is also unacceptable (plastic is much softer than metal). Here, for both zones, it is enough to use the gradation of the abrasive P150. P180 and it is advisable to use mesh abrasive, additional ventilation will avoid the appearance of the pile on plastic overheating of the plastic during grinding. The same can be said about the aluminum and galvanized surface-to use rough paper on them, such as P80-P100 is unacceptable. For these types of metals, it is recommended to take paper not rude P180. When grinding manually, use at least one gradation smaller than when machine: instead of P80, take P100 or P120, instead of P150. P180 and T.D. Remember that manual processing is always rude than mechanical!

Risk after manual grinding, such a risk is rude and in case of subsidence will be well noticeable.

After grinding work (however, as before), do not forget to carefully disclose and degrease the surface. To remove dust, it is better to use a special blowing gun, the device of which allows you to effectively blow dust even from hard.to.reach places. After the surface is prepared, it is important to decide for what kind of damage and for which parts of the car body to use one or another putty. You will find the answer to this question in this article.

It is not for nothing that the master says that 80% of success in painting the car depends on the preparatory work. Here, as a rule, there is also an opportunity to speed up the process and all sorts of simplifications of the technology: the client needs to ensure that the car is glittering, but what is under the paint, he will not find out immediately about outright hack, such as putty on gloss or processing of water putty, We will not speak, everything is clear here and so. We give another example, it would seem harmless. So we put their putty on the bare metal. Everything was done as a textbook, and after grinding they even primed the repair zone with anti.corrosion soil. the metal was protected! Yes, but it is protected only around the plucked area, and under the putty? And putty, meanwhile, the material is porous, and therefore perfectly absorbs and holds moisture for a long time. And there is enough microcrack in the metal (and the presence of such cracks, especially in places of deformations, where the metal is stretched, more than real, not to mention corrosion or welds). and water under high capillary pressure begins to seep through these cracks under the putty with the inner Parties. The putty swells (especially in winter when moisture turns into ice in the cold), and after a few days the owner of the car notices intricate bas.reliefs from ugly bubbles on the same restored part, for which he gave decent money to the real masters of his craft in order to ensure the most possible possible metal protection (comparable to the factory guarantee for coating), in the coloring systems of the highest quality directly to the metal, a layer of epoxy (and only epoxy, applying acid soil, and later acrylic requires an order of magnitude more time and means) of the soil, and only after that putty work is carried out. If everything is done correctly and further, then such a coating will remain for many years, during which corrosion and bubbles can appear anywhere, but not here. In addition to the multiple increase in anti.corrosion protection of the car body, epoxy soil also provides the highest adhesion: both to the metal and to the putty layers applied on top. After all, when putting putty on bare metal for chemical adhesion, one does not have to hope. putty in this case is kept only due to mechanical adhesion. And putty, applied over epoxy soil, in addition to mechanical adhesion, also receives chemical (adhesion of putty and semi.dry layer of soil). There are still types of work on which epoxy soil is mandatory. These include work on aluminum or galvanized surfaces. The fact is that not all types of putty have high adhesion to the specified types of metals, mainly only special. However, not all types of work can be performed by these putty. For example, deep bumps are better to fill with fiberglass putty, but not all of them have good adhesion to aluminum. The output here can be this: a layer of epoxy soil is applied to the metal, and any polyester putty on the ground is applied to the ground. It is enough to apply soil for putty in one layer (not more than 25 μm), so its consumption and increase in the cost of repair are minimal, and the effect regarding the increase in the durability of the coating is simply amazing! Continuing to talk on the topic of surfaces suitable for putty, we note that many putty can also be applied to old trouble.free paintwork. But only subject to the following conditions: the coating should not be thermoplastic (throw a rag with a solvent and check if the paint is softened), it should be clean and polished. In general, the “evolution” of the technology for applying polyester putty for some manufacturers is interesting: they were required only to polished metal or on epoxy soil, then it turned out that it was possible to old, even later, even later it turned out that even on cured 2K acrylic filler soils It is not a sin to smear something! What will be next? But what can be said with confidence is that putting their putty to the places of a throne old LKP is dangerous. outlining and shrinkage may occur. For this reason, the damaged LKP from the repair site must be removed with a margin. a naked metal area around the processed (in the future) putty should be at least 2 cm, and the edges of the LKP, in case the putty gets there, must be smooth out to the most gentle state. a sharp cliff can also negatively affect the shrinkage.

possible, putty, hairdryer

Auto putty: preparation, mixing, application, drying

Putty in painting is rightly compared with the work of the sculptor. But before giving ourselves to “art modeling”, we must very carefully approach the issue of preparing the surface for putty. After all, layers of putty masses are sometimes quite thick, and with which they will lie on the details depends on the quality of surface preparation. The preparation of the surface for putty is reduced to two mandatory requirements: the surface should be clean, and processed by abrasive material of the necessary granularity. Only the joint fulfillment of these two conditions will ensure reliable adhesion of the putty layer with the surface.

WHERE TO BEGIN? Preparation of the surface for putty

Before starting any work with the element, you always need to thoroughly rinse the element with water and degrease the surface, otherwise the dirt and silicones will remain in risk on the surface, which can then lead to the appearance of defects on the LKP.

In the technological instructions for specific material, it must be indicated, firstly, the types of surfaces suitable for applying a particular putty, and secondly, the gradation of abrasive material, which should be treated before putty. But let’s try to illuminate these technological truths again. There is a norm that the risk should be no more than 20% of the thickness of the upper layer of this risk. It is well known that before applying putty mass, the steel surface must be treated with abrasive material of gradation P80. The risk of an abrasive P80 on metal is optimal for physical adhesion of putty and is 8-10 microns, which provides, firstly, a good adhesion of the putty layer with the surface, and secondly, it eliminates the shrinkage of the putty and the manifestation of grinding scraps through the layers of coatings through the coatings. However, in cases of not continuous puttying of parts (and this is about 99% of cases of putty work), it should be remembered that a fairly thick layer of putty is applied only in the central part of the defect, and the closer to the edges of the thrown area, the thinner the putty layer, which means the risk of the risk its drawdown in rude risk increases. That is why after removing the old LKP from the repair area peripheral zones (sections of the transition from metal to old coating), or better the entire surface, should be treated with smaller gradation paper. P150 or P180. This operation will also prevent the occurrence of shrinkage on the old LKP (where there is risk from the P80), if a putty is accidentally applied there (running in advance, we note that this should be avoided). After all, the risk of P80 on the LKP is already as many as 20 microns, which is limit for putty. there may be a shrinkage. And by processing the boundaries of the LKP P150 or P180, we will lower the risk to the optimal size (the risk of abrasive P180 on the LKP is 8-10 microns). I also recommend processing naked metal the size of the risks will not be especially different, but the speed of work will double. The same reasoning also relate to the removal of various small surface defects (for example, a small scratch) with the help of argumenty putty. After all, the putty layer in such cases will be small, and the putty itself is fine.grained, so the P80 will be too rough, you need to take the paper smaller gradation (for example, P150). Under the application of liquid putty, the surface is also polished by P150. P180, and if not the entire part is covered with liquid putty, then I will advise the P240. On a plastic element, the work of rough sandpaper is also unacceptable (plastic is much softer than metal). Here, for both zones, it is enough to use the gradation of the abrasive P150. P180 and it is advisable to use mesh abrasive, additional ventilation will avoid the appearance of the pile on plastic overheating of the plastic during grinding. The same can be said about the aluminum and galvanized surface-to use rough paper on them, such as P80-P100 is unacceptable. For these types of metals, it is recommended to take paper not rude P180. When grinding manually, use at least one gradation smaller than when machine: instead of P80, take P100 or P120, instead of P150. P180 and T.D. Remember that manual processing is always rude than mechanical!

Risk after manual grinding, such a risk is rude and in case of subsidence will be well noticeable.

After grinding work (however, as before), do not forget to carefully disclose and degrease the surface. To remove dust, it is better to use a special blowing gun, the device of which allows you to effectively blow dust even from hard.to.reach places. After the surface is prepared, it is important to decide for what kind of damage and for which parts of the car body to use one or another putty. You will find the answer to this question in this article.

It is not for nothing that the master says that 80% of success in painting the car depends on the preparatory work. Here, as a rule, there is also an opportunity to speed up the process and all sorts of simplifications of the technology: the client needs to ensure that the car is glittering, but what is under the paint, he will not find out immediately about outright hack, such as putty on gloss or processing of water putty, We will not speak, everything is clear here and so. We give another example, it would seem harmless. So we put their putty on the bare metal. Everything was done as a textbook, and after grinding they even primed the repair zone with anti.corrosion soil. the metal was protected! Yes, but it is protected only around the plucked area, and under the putty? And putty, meanwhile, the material is porous, and therefore perfectly absorbs and holds moisture for a long time. And there is enough microcrack in the metal (and the presence of such cracks, especially in places of deformations, where the metal is stretched, more than real, not to mention corrosion or welds). and water under high capillary pressure begins to seep through these cracks under the putty with the inner Parties. The putty swells (especially in winter when moisture turns into ice in the cold), and after a few days the owner of the car notices intricate bas.reliefs from ugly bubbles on the same restored part, for which he gave decent money to the real masters of his craft in order to ensure the most possible possible metal protection (comparable to the factory guarantee for coating), in the coloring systems of the highest quality directly to the metal, a layer of epoxy (and only epoxy, applying acid soil, and later acrylic requires an order of magnitude more time and means) of the soil, and only after that putty work is carried out. If everything is done correctly and further, then such a coating will remain for many years, during which corrosion and bubbles can appear anywhere, but not here. In addition to the multiple increase in anti.corrosion protection of the car body, epoxy soil also provides the highest adhesion: both to the metal and to the putty layers applied on top. After all, when putting putty on bare metal for chemical adhesion, one does not have to hope. putty in this case is kept only due to mechanical adhesion. And putty, applied over epoxy soil, in addition to mechanical adhesion, also receives chemical (adhesion of putty and semi.dry layer of soil). There are still types of work on which epoxy soil is mandatory. These include work on aluminum or galvanized surfaces. The fact is that not all types of putty have high adhesion to the specified types of metals, mainly only special. However, not all types of work can be performed by these putty. For example, deep bumps are better to fill with fiberglass putty, but not all of them have good adhesion to aluminum. The output here can be this: a layer of epoxy soil is applied to the metal, and any polyester putty on the ground is applied to the ground. It is enough to apply soil for putty in one layer (not more than 25 μm), so its consumption and increase in the cost of repair are minimal, and the effect regarding the increase in the durability of the coating is simply amazing! Continuing to talk on the topic of surfaces suitable for putty, we note that many putty can also be applied to old trouble.free paintwork. But only subject to the following conditions: the coating should not be thermoplastic (throw a rag with a solvent and check if the paint is softened), it should be clean and polished. In general, the “evolution” of the technology for applying polyester putty for some manufacturers is interesting: they were required only to polished metal or on epoxy soil, then it turned out that it was possible to old, even later, even later it turned out that even on cured 2K acrylic filler soils It is not a sin to smear something! What will be next? But what can be said with confidence is that putting their putty to the places of a throne old LKP is dangerous. outlining and shrinkage may occur. For this reason, the damaged LKP from the repair site must be removed with a margin. a naked metal area around the processed (in the future) putty should be at least 2 cm, and the edges of the LKP, in case the putty gets there, must be smooth out to the most gentle state. a sharp cliff can also negatively affect the shrinkage.

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Laidred

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