Home Small appliances Installation and connection of the air conditioner with your own hands
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Installation and connection of the air conditioner with your own hands

Installing split systems with your own hands

To put the air conditioner, as a rule, you need to call specialists who, upon the end of the installation of the equipment, will give you a document indicating the correctly done work. When installing the split systems with your own hands, you lose the right to service under warranty. But in order to save finances, many home craftsmen are trying to install an air conditioner with their own hands. At the same time, one point should be taken into account: in order to qualitatively connect the external unit of the system with the internal, and then start the unit to work, you will need to purchase quite expensive equipment. In addition, the installation of split systems is a rather troublesome business, if it is carried out on its own. The purchase of equipment is advisable in the following cases:

  • You plan to transfer one or more units to new places;
  • If you have purchased several units;
  • You plan a serious repair in the apartment, which implies a complete dismantling, and then the reverse installation of a split system;
  • You want to help install the split system to your friends or relatives;
  • If this set of tools comes in handy to repair a car air conditioner.

In other cases, installing the air conditioner in the apartment with your own hands is inappropriate.

installation, connection, conditioner, your, hands

Materials and tools for installation

To independently install the split system, you will need to purchase the following materials.

  • Electric cables. What cable cross section required is indicated in the installation instructions. Most often, a 4-living cable has a section from 2 to 2.5 square. When calculating the length, all bends are taken into account and a small stock is added, about 30 cm.
  • Brackets. Have a L-shaped shape and are selected by the size of the unit you have chosen. They are installed by the external, most heavy air conditioner unit.
  • Copper tubes. They should be thick and seamless, and specially designed for air conditioning systems. The ends of the tubes are necessarily closed with plugs that do not allow various garbage to get inside. The length of the pipe should be equal to the length of the track. Be sure to take into account bends, and add 20-30 cm to the obtained value. The diameter of the tubes depends on the manufacturer of the equipment. The attached instructions for installing the air conditioner can give answers to questions about the diameters of copper tubes.
  • Thermal insulation. For these purposes, a rubber “sleeve” is usually used. It can be any color. The length should be equal to the length of the entire track with a margin multiplied by 2.
  • Reinforced tape.
  • Anchor.

You can’t do without a special tool:

  • pipe bend (how to use, shown in the video);
  • Rimmer-cleaning;
  • a pipeline (how to use it, you can find out from the video);
  • Valtsovka (see. video);
  • manometric collector;
  • Vacuum pump.

Where to install the air conditioner correctly

Installation site is an important factor in the performance of the device. Split system is a design of two parts: internal and outdoor blocks. The optimal place should be sought for each of them and at the same time take into account the technical requirements.

What is important to know about the installation of an internal unit:

So in most cases, a place for him is chosen a balcony or space under the window. For the lower floors, it is logical to arrange a block higher, for example, not under the window, but to avoid misunderstandings and children’s pranks.

If we are talking about a private house, then the supporting abilities of the wall should be taken into account, additional supports will be required in order to firmly hang a rather heavy box.

When you plan the location of both blocks, it is necessary to take into account the fact that manufacturers set the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks. over, this indicator may depend on the brand. It is worthwhile to first study this issue in the technical passport of the product. The maximum distance can be up to 6 m. If for some reason you will need more, then the system will have to additionally refuel with freon, and this is an expensive pleasure.

How to install air conditioning with your own hands

A split system itself is a rather complex and expensive household device, and its installation is also a costly process. Experts will vying to offer you their services, but in principle, you can do it on your own. The problem can only be in a vacuum pump, but many “sabbaths” that work on this matter do without a vacuum pump perfectly.

Materials and tools for installing split systems

But some equipment will still be required. You will definitely need a peorator in order to make a hole in the wall for laying the hose and wires.

In addition, a drill for installing fasteners in the wall, corner grinder for cutting pipes, a file or sandpaper, and rallying for pipe pipe is useful to you.

From consumables, a supply 4.er cable with a section of 2.5 mm² is useful to be useful. It is better to take a cable with a margin. You should also buy special pipes for air conditioners of two different diameters. The length of these pipes is equal to the length of the track with a margin of about 25 cm. The peculiarity of copper pipes for air conditioners is in their softness: they easily provide tightness. It is important when buying in a store before transportation on both sides to close the holes in them so that the dust does not get. But in principle, store sellers know about this and most likely will already prepare such packaging for you.

It will also require a piece of rubber insulation for pipes equal to the length of the track, a drainage tube (a polypropylene hose can act in its role), brackets for attaching an outer block with a supply of carrier ability about 4 times to compensate for wind and snow load.

The installation procedure of the air conditioner

In any case, before proceeding with installation work, you should definitely read the instructions for installation in the technical passport of the product. In it, you will probably find some special requirements like distances between blocks, so carefully study it.

First thing. If you have decided on the location of the blocks, study the walls for the hidden wiring of engineering communications. It’s easy to damage them, and then you won’t get a hassle.

Installation begins with the inside of the system. Measure the location and install fasteners.

Knowing the location of the inner block, you can already determine the place for laying the track and drill a through hole in the wall under it. The route should take place at a slight angle so that the condensate does not rush inward, but out. The hole will have to be made quite large. at least 5 cm in diameter.

After preparing the track, brackets are mounted for the outer block. This is a very crucial stage, taking into account the fact that the block will hang outside, possibly at high altitude and over the heads of passers.by. Fastenies should be installed all according to the instructions, the best option is 10 × 100 mm anchor. It is also very important to observe the horizontal level here.

The outer and internal blocks are interconnected by communications. this is a power cable, two copper tubes and a drainage track.

First, copper tubes are laid, they are cut into the required length, clean the ends of the burrs so that the sawdust does not get inside. Follow this, because small metal particles can pose a serious danger to the device compressor.

The prepared tubes are tied into the hole in the wall so that the garbage does not get inside.

Following the tubes, an electric cable is extended to the prepared track and connected in accordance with the scheme specified in the instructions to the device.

The last in this set of communications is a drainage tube. An important point in its styling is a mandatory slope towards the street, this is necessary for the correct removal of condensate.

All parts of communications are combined into one tourniquet and wound with tape. If there is such an opportunity. the track inside the room is hidden in a niche in the wall. If not, they hide in a box suitable in color to interior decoration.

There should be no problems with connecting communications to blocks: the scheme in the technical documentation is quite visual, and it is almost impossible to make a mistake.

Important! If one block is installed below the other by more than 5 m, in copper tubes you need to make a loop to delay the oil contained in the freon. With a difference, no loops need to be done less.

How to install air conditioning yourself is a step.by.step instruction

Installation of the air conditioner is not an easy task, but fulfilling! There are many questions at each stage. This is complicated by the fact that it is impossible to give one standard scheme. each case is individual. If you do not know where to start the installation, in what sequence to perform operations, then this article is for you!

There are many recommendations and manuals on the Internet, but there are few specifics in them. In this post I will highlight the nuances that arise at every step of installation. I will try to make an understandable instruction. So that with the help of it everyone can perform a simple installation of a household system. But before starting work, read the article completely.

I strongly recommend entering the installation of specialists in the following cases:

  • if the “track” of the air conditioner is very long and has complex bends;
  • if the highway passes through several walls;
  • if the external unit is installed at high altitude (above the second floor);
  • If the diameter of at least one of the pipes is more than 3/8 inch.

Installation of air conditioner

  • The first stage is the most difficult. It is necessary to imagine where the air conditioner blocks will be located, and how the “track” will be laid between them. Each factor should be taken into account here:
    The dimensions of the blocks. You need to make sure that both devices are placed in the planned place. permissible distances to the ceiling and walls are observed. I wrote several articles about this (read the location of the external unit);

  • You must make sure that there are no wires and pipes in places of wall drilling (especially under the internal block);
  • The drainage tube from the inner unit should provide the drain of the condensate “Samoy”. At least the minimum slope should be (5 mm. 1 meter of length). T.e. you can not drill a hole above the level of the inner block. Make sure that water will merge into the street (and not on a neighbor’s balcony, for example);
  • Now you can start installing an internal block. If the “track” will come out of it to the right, then you need to gently turn the copper tubes in the other direction (t.to. From the factory they are directed to the left). You need to do this very carefully without a flex. do not break the tubes (as indicated in the instructions for “Split”). If you look at the photo, the pipes are bent parallel to the floor, and not perpendicular! The connection of the nuts can only be under the internal unit or in the cable channel. In no case should the nuts of copper tubes be inside the wall.

On the mounting plate, mark the center of the block. Then the center is marked on the wall. Do not forget about the distance to the ceiling. Using the level, align the plate and fasten it.

After that, you can estimate the inner block to the fixed plate (but do not snap the lower clips to the plate!). With a pencil, mark the lower corner corners. Then remove the block from the plate.

  • We note where there will be a hole in the outer wall.
  • If the track goes directly (through the wall under the inner block. “direct installation”), then we make the hole in the lower left corner of the block. We mark the hole with a diameter of 45 mm, so that it is closed after the block.
  • If the “track” goes left or right from the block (“lateral installation”), then mark the “track” to the outer wall (with a small tilt). The photo shows the side installation, where the highway has an additional turn inside the room (t.to. The outer wall is shifted). In your case, there may not be a turn.

Gently cut through the wallpaper and beat off the plaster at the drilling point. If the installation is straight or as in the photo above, then you need to make the so.called “entry” to the hole (where the tubes will go into the wall). So that in this place the bend of the “track” is smooth.

  • We proceed to the drilling of the hole. The diameter of the hole for small air conditioners should be 45-50 mm. During the drilling, control that there are no people, cars and other things on the street.
  • For brick or concrete walls, a large peorator and a drill with a winning tip will be required. The first 2-3 cm walls brown without tilt (in a straight line) so that the drill enters a little into the wall. Then be sure to tilt down. During this operation, it is better to use an industrial vacuum cleaner.
  • It is better to drill a wooden wall with a drill with a fever with a diameter of 45 mm. The process will go slowly, but right. Do not forget about tilt the holes down.
  • Metal profile or Sentwitch is better to drill 45mm bimetallic crown. Do not forget about the slope of the holes down.
  • We proceed to fastening the brackets of the external unit. It is necessary to secure them reliably and in terms of level. If the air conditioner is mounted “under the window”, then it is better to immediately fix the bolts on the brackets (for mounting the block). Bolts should look up and should be tightened with nuts. We fix the bolts so that the legs of the block exactly fall on them.
  • After you have done all the “dirty” work, we take a roulette, a leaf and a pencil in your hands. We count with the margin the length of the inter.block communications (this will help the article about the laying of the “track”):
  • 2 copper tubes. For small air conditioners, tubes with a diameter of 1/4 and 3/8 inch are often used. It is important that the ends of the tubes are sealed from the slightest dust;
  • Interlock cable (connecting two blocks). For small air conditioners, 5 × 1.5 VVG is suitable;
  • Drainage hose. It is better to use a specialized corrugated hose with a diameter of 16mm;
  • thermoflex on both tubes;
  • If the air conditioner “eats” to the external unit, then together with the “track” we launch the power cable. For small air conditioners, PVS 3 × 1.5 is suitable;
  • Additional inter.block wire. Some air conditioners have an additional two.core wire. And if there is one, then do not forget about him.
  • If the “track” of the air conditioner will need to be pulled through one hole in the wall, then you can act as follows:

The internal block is conveniently disposed and connect the materials to it:

    . Open the front cover of the case and find the pads. We pull the cable through the back of the case. Record the numbers of the terminals and the colors of the veins, which were connected to them;

  • unscrew the nuts (or plugs) of the tubes with two keys. Usually the air descends. do not scare and make sure that the plug does not fly away anywhere! The following will require such a device as a roller. We pile and connect the tubes, having previously studied how this is done. We need experience to tighten the nuts with a qualitatively (if you do not reach them, then the freon will “leave”, if you pull it, you can tear the thread). For this, someone uses a special dynamometric key;
  • tightly connect the drainage hose to the inner block;
  • If the air conditioner has an additional wire, then connect it to the designed terminal (you will see it).
  • When the tubes are still without a thermal fuel, we can gently bend them under the hole (if the “installation of direct”). For the “side installation” we cut out the plug of the case.
  • We dress thermoflex on both tubes. All tubes (including their wower compound) should be tightly wrapped in the thermoflex so that condensation does not form on the tubes. It is better to use a special tape for fixing.
  • Compactly lay the “track” inside the block and fix it with a tape. Do not forget about the power cable (we bring it out where you need). And also make sure that the drainage hose is below.

Connection of the blocks

To connect the blocks, it is necessary to observe the correct connection of cable colors. There should not arise with this big problems.


Drainage is removed to the street or to the sewer. On the inner block of the split system there is a tube with a plastic tip, where a corrugated pipe is put on and is squeezed out with a clamp. It is advisable to bring it to a distance of 1 meter from the wall

In the lower part of the outer block, a corrugated pipe is rarely used and everything is left as it is. Water just drips to the ground.

Freon circulation system

Connecting copper pipes requires responsibility and good preparation. Before this, it is better to carefully read the instructions and study the places for connection. Copper tubes should not bend much and pass evenly with the rest of the communication.

There are two ports for connecting two tubes on the inner block. First you need to twist the nuts. If something hisses during this, it is not scary, it comes out the nitrogen that was pre-uploaded to the block.

After cutting, the pipes carefully checked the ends for the presence of a burr and other rudeness. For 5.7 cm pipe should be perfectly flat. Waltzing is carried out for the size of the port’s fitting. It is very important that the tube is tightly put on the fitting. this will eliminate the excessive loss of freon and ensure normal sealing.

If everything is dressed well, the pipe with the port is connected by winding the nut. There is no need to use gaskets or other devices. Such operations are performed with all the ends of two copper tubes.

Vacuuming for what and how to do

Vacuuming is necessary in order to clean the copper tubes of air and moisture, which falls inside during installation. If it is not removed, a large load will be created, and the compressor, respectively, will overheat.

There are two ways to scum split systems.

Win method

If you look at the port in which copper tubes are connected, you can see two plugs, in addition to the nut with the fitting. Both plugs are unscrewed.

Work is done with a port of larger diameter. Inside there is a special connector for a hexagonal key. The size is selected in place, and it can also be found in the instructions.

For 1 second we turn the valve 90 degrees with the key, then release. This means that a little freon was released into the system, which led to excessive pressure. There is a spool on the same port, on which you need to press your finger to start the release of a mixture of freon and residual gases. Operation is carried out 1-2 seconds 2-3 times.

After all, the plug is put on the spool, and the port with a hexagon is completely unscrewed to run the freon into the system. It is important to make sure that all the plugs are tightly twisted, you can grease the thread with soap for greater sealing.

Vacuum pump

The vacuum pump is connected to the spool for 20-30 minutes. During this time, he must completely vacuum the system. Then the pump is turned off, but the tube remains in the spool for 15 minutes. This is necessary in order to observe with a pressure gauge for pressure. If the arrow has froze and stands still, then everything is fine. The chaotic movement of the arrow speaks of a leakage of air or moisture, so you should re.turn on the pump.

Before disconnecting the pump, it is necessary to let the freon into the system using a hexagonal key. A characteristic sound in the system indicates a successful launch. After that, it is necessary to quickly disconnect the pump.

Connecting blocks

After the internal and external modules are installed and carefully fixed, they must be correctly connected by each other. Between the blocks will be laid:

You need to carefully measure the length of the actually received highway, cut off the cable and tubes. We cut off the electric cable with some margin. 25-35 cm is enough. For the tube we provide a supply of about 1 meter.

It is believed that the pipes can be carefully cut off with a hacksaw with a small tooth, but this is not so. After the hacksaw, small burrs will remain, which are very difficult to smooth out. Correctly cut off the tube only with a special tool (pipeline).

The end nuts on copper tubes are best installed in the room before putting them in the highway. To do this, we need special tools: a rimmer and collapse.

  • Using a Rimmer, carefully remove the burrs from the inner and outer edge of the tube. It is especially important that the inner edge is very even.
  • Put on the terminal nut.
  • Fasten the tube in the roller so that the edge protrudes above the lips of the rolling for 1.5-2 mm. Click the phone so tightly that it does not move and in no case starts to squeeze.
  • Having brought the cone to the cut of the tube, with smooth movements, start pressing it into the tube. Gradually, the effort will increase.
  • Twist the cone as much as it turns out. In this case, it may be necessary to make a significant effort.
  • Having dismantled the tool, check the quality of the resulting “collar”. Properly made funnel has neat edges without cracks and a zazubin. The brilliant border of the funnel cone should have the same width.

Do not forget that first a nut is put on the phone. It can be insulting to make a very accurate zarain, and then remember that they forgot to put on a nut. Then you have to cut off the heels and start all over again.

Proper pruning and neat roll requires dexterity and skills. By inexperience, you can ruin the ends, so be sure to practice on trimming tubes.

Now you can put the tubes in the highway. Previously, thermal insulation is put on the tubes and fixed with tape. When laying copper highways, follow the following rules:

  • bends should be smooth;
  • bending radius. at least 10 cm;
  • You can not bend several times and straighten the tube again;
  • If the difference in the height of the unit of the blocks exceeds 5 m, in the lower part of the tube should be turned into a ring. Oil will be caught in it.

The split system includes a diagram of electrical connections. Correctly connect the necessary contacts will help that each cable core has its own color. Keep in mind that the color of your wire may not coincide with the color indicated in the scheme. The main thing is that the contacts of the internal and external modules are connected in the correct order.

The drainage tube is laid so that a small constant slope is provided to the outside. On the outside, the free end of the drainage tube is attached to the wall with the help of clamps so that it does not dangle, and the dripping condensate does not fall directly onto the wall.

Copper trunk pipes to the inner and outer blocks are also connected according to the scheme. The end nuts must be twisted with a force of 5-7 kgm. Then the copper of the tube will burn well and will start the smallest bumps of the nipple. This will ensure complete tightness of the connection.


Vacuuming is necessary in order to remove the remaining wet air from the laid track. If this is not done, the refrigerant (freon) will be diluted, which will reduce its heat capacity. Moisture during the operation of the system may freeze, as a result, the expensive system will fail.

To perform this operation, a manometric manifold will be required, the keys-players, a special pump for creating a vacuum. The sequence of actions is as follows:

  • To the service port of the outer unit with a special hose, we connect a manometric collector;
  • Another hose through the collector unit we connect a vacuum pump;
  • Without opening the ports, we turn on the pump;
  • Open a crane under a pressure gauge on a manometrometric manifold.

This is the only way the air from the highway will begin to pump out.

The arrow of the manometer will gradually fall, showing the degree of air pumping. Even after the arrow has stopped, you should not turn off the pump. Let the pump work for about 30 minutes. This will allow moisture residues to evaporate and they will be removed by the pump.

Before you turn off the pump, do not forget to block the crane on the manometric manifold. But yet, do not disconnect the pump. Observe the indicator arrow for 20 minutes. If the indications do not change, we can assume that the highway is sealed.

Do not turn off the pump. Open the lower (gas) port on the outer block with the wrench-player. After the noise subsides in the highway, unscrew the pump hose as soon as possible.

Typically, in the outer block of the just purchased system, there is a certain supply of freon. It is enough to fill out a short (length up to 4-5 meters) for the highway. Smoothly open the upper (liquid) port with the hexagon, and Freon will fill the highway.

If the split system has already been repaired or the highway is longer than 4 m, additional refueling is required.

  • Connect the container with the freon to the manometric collector. Smoothly open the upper port on the air conditioner block.
  • Open the valve on the collector module. Wait until the manometer shows that the highway is filled to the pressure that the manufacturer recommends in the instructions.
  • Close the valve on the collector.
  • Quickly disconnect the collector hose from the service nipple.

When the nippel hose is disconnected, a little freon will break out, which will become a burning cold in the air. All work is carried out only in thread gloves.

How to clean with your own hands: Serving the air conditioner at home

To achieve savings, many owners of apartments resort to independent maintenance of climatic equipment after installing the air conditioner with their own hands. The video from the network contain a lot of useful information on this issue, so there are no special problems.

How to choose an air conditioner for an apartment: effective cooling and air ventilation

Types and features of devices, additional functions. Power calculation according to the parameters of the room. Care tips.

The simplest method of cleaning is foam flushing. For this, a special detergent is used, which is sold in the form of an aerosol spray.

  • Disconnect the air conditioner from the network, open its lid and get filters.
  • Rinse filters with running water and leave to dry.
  • Process the ribs of the evaporator with foam from the spray can and withstand the time indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions (10-30 minutes.).
  • Install the filters back and turn on the air conditioner by configuring it for ventilation or heating mode (the choice of mode depends on the recommendations of the foam manufacturer).
  • After 30 minutes. Air conditioning can be turned off and ventilated by the room.

The most common way to clean the air conditioner is foamy washing

On the video “How to clean a split system at home” can be found in more detail. This method is suitable for removing contaminants from a thermal exchanger. To clean the drainage bath, fan and hidden sections of the air conditioner, you will have to disassemble it.

How to install air conditioning: choosing the optimal place for installation

Usually with the installation of air conditioning with your own hands in a private house there are no problems. The main thing is that the outer unit is fixed on the bearing wall. If installation work is carried out in the apartment, you will have to reckon with neighbors and adhere to the standards.

The following norms are provided for placing the internal block:

  • The distance between the split system and the ceiling is at least 15 cm.
  • Between the air conditioning and the wall (left or right). at least 30 cm.
  • Between the split system and the floor-2.8 m;
  • Distance to the nearest obstacle. at least 1.5 m.

The outer block is most often mounted near the window. On the first and second floors of the building, the structure is located as far as possible from passers.by. On the floors above the block can be installed on the side of the window or directly below it.

The efficiency and correctness of the technique depends on the correctly selected place of installation of the air conditioner

The length of the route between the internal and external blocks should not exceed 6 m. Otherwise, the system will have to pump an additional amount of working substance. If the distance between the evaporator and the compressor is 1 m, then the length of the track should be no more than 5 m. In this case, all superfluous is collected in the ring and hides behind the block.

installation, connection, conditioner, your, hands

Interesting fact! Each manufacturer provides for its own maximum between blocks. For Panasonic, it is 3 m, and Daikin recommends a distance of 1.5-2.5 m.

For the installation of a window air conditioner with your own hands, certain requirements are also assumed. The design is placed directly on the windowsill. For installation, a special casing is used, which comes with the device, or a jumper is inserted into the window. If you do not want to spoil the double.glazed windows, the window will be the best place for such an air conditioner.

It is not recommended to mount the window in the wall if its thickness is more than 25 cm. In this case, the fence grilles can be blocked, which will be limited by air access, the effectiveness of the air conditioner will decrease, and its details will fail ahead of schedule.

Open.type air conditioners should be installed on the floor

The requirements for the installation site of a mobile air conditioner with your own hands depend on the type of device. Closed models are best placed in the corner of the room, on a cabinet or shelf. Open.type devices, on the contrary, need to be installed on the floor. In this case, the duct of mobile air conditioners is excreted through the window.

How best to place air conditioning: DIY installation on the left and right of the outer wall

The internal block in the room can be placed on the left or to the right of the outer wall. Each installation option has its own characteristics. If the block is located on the left, and its route goes beyond the room exactly, then the air conditioner is fixed at a distance of at least 50 cm from the outer wall. This segment can be reduced to 10 cm. To do this, it is necessary to wrap the track on the adjacent wall, be sure to preserve its length equal to 50 cm. It is not allowed that this indicator is less.

If there is no way to place the track on the adjacent wall, there is an alternative. Divids can be removed from the left side of the air conditioner. So that the pipes do not spoil the appearance of the room, they should be placed in strobes. This option is possible if the area of ​​connection of the track and conclusions is hidden under the lid and if necessary, access is provided.

If the work is carried out on the front side of the building or the house represents cultural or historical value, it will not be possible to stretch out the outer wall of the pipe and cable, without spoiling the appearance of the facade. In this case, the air conditioner route is mounted in the room. Communications are laid in strobes. This method of installation requires significant costs and efforts, but the result is aesthetic.

You can install an internal block to the left or to the right of the outer wall

Useful advice! The most budgetary way to lay the route in the room is to install communications in the corner of the room. Special boxes are used as a disguise.

The option of connecting the air conditioner to the right of the outer wall belongs to the category of standard solutions. In this case, the track in a special box is displayed directly into the wall. If necessary, communication can be directed down in the corner of the room using the same box. It is also allowed to use the stroke for laying the highway indoors.

How to choose a place for connecting an external air conditioner unit

There are much more problems with the placement of the outer block, since not on all buildings on the walls you can install such equipment. In this case, two options are provided:

  • Installation of climate equipment in a room intended for these purposes. air conditioning.
  • Installation of air conditioning through a loggia or balcony.

In buildings where the installation of climatic equipment on the facade is prohibited, usually balconies and loggias are glazed. In such conditions, it is very difficult to provide optimal conditions for the air conditioner. It is necessary to organize a cooling system to eliminate the overheating of the equipment. You should also take care of the effective air diving, which has already been worked out.

The external unit is often hung under the window or from the side of it

How to cut connect and install flex duct, flexible pipe for heating & air conditioning ventilation

If there are no prohibitions on the placement of climatic equipment, then the split system is usually fixed on the wall or on the balcony fence. You can do this on the front or from the side. If it is supposed to install the air conditioner on the balcony, which is glazed, the external unit is mounted so that there is an opening sash above it. Otherwise, the maintenance of the split system will be problematic. On loggia, equipment can be placed only on the front side.

In what sequence is the preparation for the installation of the “track” of the air conditioner

This sequence will be relevant for both apartment owners and installers:

    First, the installation site of the air conditioner is determined (the location of the internal block in the room).

  • Next, select the power of cooling the device.
  • Then it is desirable to determine the type of “conder” (inverter or on/off) and choose the future model. Now, when laying the “track”, the size and tube of this model will be taken into account. When the time comes to purchase air conditioning, you can choose either the model considered or any other (but it will be necessary to take into account the dimensions and diameter of the tubes for the new device).
  • We coordinate the exact indentation to the internal block:

The “track” is laid with the desired tube diameter. I will write more about this process below.

  • The customer brings the power cable to the air conditioner and continues finishing work (the “track” is plastered).
  • After finishing, the blocks are hung on the walls and connected to the displayed communications. A vacuum of the system and its launch are carried out.

Step-by-step instructions for laying “tracks” for split systems

There are situations where the installation of the highway requires a non.standard approach, and you can’t do without the help of specialists. But today we will analyze one of the simple options for laying the “track”:

  • First of all, we mark on the wall coordinated indentation and the size of the internal block. Next, we determine the place of drilling opening to the street. If the external block is located “under the window”, then the hole is often drilled under the edge of the window (we usually drill below the windowsill of 10-15 centimeters). Keep in order to then hang the block, the window should open (or you have to pull out the double.glazed window).
  • We mark the gut under the “track” from the left lower corner of the internal block to the opening in the wall. At the same time, we try to ensure that there are no sharp excesses in the corners (in this case, there will be less likely to turn the tubes). It is advisable to make a slope throughout the highway the same (so the length of the communications will be a little smaller, and the condensate path will be more uniform, and the bends will be smears).
  • We look at where other indoor wires and communications can take place in the places of attachment of the internal block and passing the track. It is very important to find them and not damage them.
  • With a slight slope, we drill a hole outward with a diameter of at least 45 mm. Here you need to be more careful so that nothing (nobody) is damaged by fragments from the side of the street. It is advisable to catch them outside. We carry out a stroke. The width and depth of the strobes of 6 centimeters is usually enough for household systems. If necessary, the depth can be reduced to 3 centimeters, and make a width of 7-8 centimeters (lay the communications along the “plane”). For the evenness of the curtain and some simplification of the task, it is first better to cut out the edges of the corner grinding (or a strobe, although I believe that it is not very effective for work of small scale).
  • We calculate and measure the length of the materials:
  • copper tubes in thermoflex. We look at what a diameter of the tubes is needed for a specific “split”. For air conditioners with a capacity of up to 3 kW, 1/4 and 3/8 inches are most often used (6 and 10 millimeters, respectively). We take into account the distance under the inner block (about 50 cm.), the length of the strobe, the thickness of the wall, and the distance outside. We take the tubes of such a length to the street that there is enough external unit cranes. But preferably at least 0.5 meters on the street to make a minimum bend and work calmly with them. If the size of the external unit is required, then read the corresponding article.
  • Interlock cable. For air conditioners with a capacity of up to 4 kW, a five.core cable with a section of 1.5 mm is enough. sq. (VVG 5×1.5 is ideal). We also take into account the distance under the internal block (about 1.2 m.), the length of the strobe, the thickness of the wall, the distance outside (the length of the cable on the street is usually longer than the tubes of centimeters by 20-30).
  • drainage hose. It is best to use a specialized corrugated hose with an internal diameter of 16 mm. Its length should take into account the distances under the internal block (about 50 cm.), the length of the sidella and walls, the distance on the street (usually 1.2 m. enough).
  • additional wires. I recommend that you leave a spare wire along with the “track” (for example, PVS 3×1.5). If necessary, it is used to power the external unit (or connect additional sensors that can come with the air conditioner). Its length can be calculated as the length of the inter.block cable.
    It is convenient to start laying the “track” from the end that will go out onto the street. In this case, we form the end of the “track” in one tourniquet (the length of the materials according to your calculations). In this case, we put the flex on the tubes. We wrap with a special tape or tape the part of the highway that will be inside the hole and on the street (so that the flex is not damaged in the process of pulling the track).

  • We pull the prepared end of the highway into the hole. We control that the length of the tubes is the way you calculate.
  • After that, we put all the materials into the shtrob. We fix them with tape. The main rules:
    The drainage hose throughout the “highway” should be located under the slope;

  • at the output of the strobe (where there will be an internal block), the drainage is located at the very bottom of the “highway” (to the left of the tubes);
  • at the output of the strobe (where there will be an internal block), the tubes are located to the right of the drainage (it is better to make a thick tube on top of a thin one);
  • If some wires (to indoor outlets or switchers) interfere with the laying of the “track”, then it is better to extract them (so as not to break copper tubes);
  • pipe with a diameter of up to 10 millimeters bend carefully so as not to break. For thicker diameters, use pipeline. If there is no experience, then it is better to bend all the tubes without a flex;
  • The joints of the flex are glued (gray tape, for example).
    We fix the track in several places. To do this, it is convenient to use the so.called peaolent. Be sure to fix it at the exit from the strob (where there will be an internal block).

  • Photograph the stacked communications, along with the block location drawn on the wall.
  • Fines and the owner give the main instructions. For example:
  • We show where to bring the “power” cable of the air conditioner;
  • We indicate how best to dash and glue the wallpaper around the “tail of the highway”;
  • We warn you that the “track” is not broken, not damaged inside the wall and not touched at all at all.

This ends with the process of laying the highway for “Split”. For a more complete understanding of the process, I strongly recommend reading an article about the installation of the air conditioner in 2 stages.

As I said. the laying of the “highway” is one of the most difficult works in the process of repairing the apartment. Masters. plasters should know everything about the interior decoration. Air conditioners are required to know all the nuances of the air conditioner. And a specialist who will prepare the “track” should also know about air conditioners and the features of finishing work. I wish everyone to find the best specialists who will fulfill the task competently and until the end!

Choosing a place

The presence of two or more blocks in climatic equipment provides for the choice of a place for each of them. Before starting installation work, accompanying documentation will be needed.

Do I need permission to install the air conditioner

Structurally, the air conditioner represents a system with an internal and outer unit, which is attached to the facade.

Multi.storey building, on the basis of ST. 246 of the Civil Code is a common property with the right to dispose of all owners. Installation of equipment without approval is a violation:

  • The device makes noise, buzzing, violating the Stihl neighbors;
  • condensate can ruin the facade of the building or get to the balcony from below;
  • The overall block overlaps the view or view and windows;
  • There are risks of cracking walls, closing wiring and fire.

Based on p. 1 tbsp. 25 LCD installation of a split system is considered as a reconstruction or re-equipment of the premises. P. 3.5.8 Decree 70 reports to prevent the installation of the air conditioner without permission from the management company and neighbors. Consent or refusal can only be obtained after the meeting of the residents of the house.

Important! Residents of private houses can start installing immediately after buying a device.

The resolution is required without fail if:

installation, connection, conditioner, your, hands
  • Installation work is carried out on the front of the high.rise building;
  • The user lives in a house representing value, from the point of view of history and culture;
  • The split system is located above the pedestrian paths;
  • on the window opening where the block is located, there are no special fences.

Important! The management company has no right to remove air conditioners. Art. 330 of the Criminal Code considers actions such as arbitrariness. Demetration of devices is carried out only by court decision.

Choosing a place for the inner block

Installation of the internal module of the air conditioner is carried out with your own hands so that cold air flows do not cause discomfort. It is allowed to be placed over the head of the sofa, from the side and back from the workplace. Building standards define the procedure for the location of the internal block:

  • from design to ceiling. at least 15 cm;
  • from the module to the right or left wall. at least 30 cm;
  • from block to floor. 280 cm, but for apartments on the ground floor the outer unit is mounted at the same level or below the internal;
  • from the obstacle to the movement of air flow. at least 150 cm;

Advice! In a room with a sofa and a TV, the air conditioner is better to put above the sofa.

Where to determine the external block?

The outer module is located near the window opening or on the open loggia. If the balcony is glazed, the block is placed on a fence with good bearing capacity or on the facade. Residents of the 1st floor need to determine the place for the external module as far as possible from passers-by. On the 3rd or more floor, it is allowed to put a device under the window or side.

In a private house, the outer block is placed on a wall with a high bearing capacity. A special mount is organized on ventilated facades or a block is placed on the base.

Determination of the distance between blocks

The maximum length of the intermodial route is 6 m, when exceeds, an additional download of freon will be needed. If the outer and internal module are located at a distance of 1 m, the track should not exceed 5 m. Excess systems are formed in a ring and placed behind the block.

Interesting to know! Manufacturers indicate a different maximum distance between blocks. For Daikin technology, it is 1.5-2.5 m, for Panasonic-3 m.

Basic rules for installing and connecting air conditioning

Installation and connection of a household air conditioner when working with your own hands provide for compliance with a number of requirements.

Outdoor unit installation rules

The module is equipped as follows:

  • Checking the balcony or facade for strength-2 times more equipment, which weighs from 10-15 to 40 kg.
  • Inspection of the brackets on external insulation. should be hidden in the material of the wall.
  • Laying a damping seal on a ventilated facade or aerated concrete walls.
  • Accounting for the noise of the equipment. the maximum permissible level is from 25 to 30 dB.
  • Checking distortions at each stage of installation to prevent refrigerant leakage.
  • Installation on the wind blown with a visor to protect against bad weather.
  • Compliance with the distance of the highway of 15-20 cm if the equipment is located on the roof.
  • Connecting the condensation pipe to sewage.

Important! Distance from the outer block to the surface of the wall. at least 10 cm.

Rules for the installation of an internal block

The second module is installed in the room and the highway is laid:

  • Connection to the mains with the organization of an individual line. the energy consumption of the air conditioner is 2 kW.
  • Laying the highway external (with hidden in the box) or internal (with hidden in the wall) ways.
  • Compliance with the distance between the blocks by a maximum of 6 m for the effective operation of the design.
  • Removing household appliances, curtains from a device by 3 m.
  • Air conditioning is not located above batteries and furniture.
  • Compliance with the distance from the block to the ceiling of 20-25 cm.

Important! The inner block is attached with a wall or ceiling method.

Determining the installation of the external unit

The external compressor unit should be installed on strong, reliable brackets that will withstand its weight. Do not take too thin metal. External blocks often mount between window openings or under the outer windowsill.

When choosing a place for the block, make sure that in case of repair to it, specialists will be available. The installation site should not be selected next to the gas pipe where leakage is possible. The block should be protected from the rain and the midday sun with a visor and ventilate well. Therefore, you need to withstand the distance recommended by the manufacturer from the block to other surfaces.

If the air conditioner is installed on the ground floor, it makes sense to think over the anti.vandal box to accommodate the outer block.

Stages of installation of a two.block system

For the system to work without problems, you need to correctly perform all the stages of installation.

Installation start with marking under the mounting panel of the interior block of the split system. To the intended conditional rectangle. the place of landing of the internal block, you need to attach the mounting bar or mounting panel, level them using the level and outline the spaces of drilling. After that, it should be drilled Ø 8 mm holes with a depth of at least 32 mm, score dowels in them, attach the mounting panel to the wall, again check the correct installation with a level and fix the metal base with a press shame with a press shame.

Focusing according to the connection scheme, find the place of the freon’s exit and score a place for drilling the channel to the outer block with a slight slope towards the street for the unhindered cordy of condensate. At the point of drilling with a knife, remove a circle of wallpaper at the site of the future channel. So when drilling, a neat hole will be obtained. Under the future hole, fix the garbage bag with painting tape. So garbage and dust in the room will be much smaller, especially if you do not have an industrial vacuum cleaner.

The length of the drill is taken depending on the thickness of the walls, the diameter of the drill (~ 45 mm) must correspond to the cross section for the passage of communications. Drill a hole and insert a flexible tube to protect walls and tubes.

Next, take care of the safety belts: the work goes to the outer wall. You need to fix the brackets to install the outer unit. To do this, apply markings for fasteners and drill holes for bolts with a length of at least 100 mm with a dowel under a drill Ø 12 mm. Attach the brackets to the installation site and fix them with bolts.

Having installed the outer block on the brackets, fix it using Ø 8-10 mm bolts with a nut and washer.

Measure the length of the freon line. To do this, put the roulette to the inner block and pass it through the formed communication channel to the connection site on the external unit, leaving a supply of at least 10 cm. Cut the copper tube of the required length with a pipe cutter, process it from the burrs with a riere, install the conical nut and roll on the edge.

The edges of the tubes to the connection itself should be drowned out by the island.

Having clenched the front cover of the internal unit of the air conditioner, unscrew the plug to connect the cable connecting the internal and outer blocks. Having served the cable through the mounting hole, connect the wires to individual terminals according to the scheme, which is depicted next to the terminal box (or in the air conditioner passport). Collect everything in the reverse order.

Attention! Dust and dirt should not get inside: this can provoke a closure and fire.

How to install Portable AC Unit into Casement windows!

Connect the air conditioner with a metal.plastic tube with a ribbon with a ribbon with Ø 16 mm, which will act as a drainage. It is very neat, so as not to damage copper tubes, connect them to the internal block of the air conditioner using a divorce and dynamometric key, wrapping a conical nut to a click. Before using the keys, make sure the nut is freely twisted with a hand. Put on a copper tube rubber tube insulation.

Wrap the highway using vinyl insulation.

Draw a combined highway through a hole in the wall. Try not to bend the tubes too much and not too often. A drainage tube is laid under the connecting route so that there is no stagnation of condensate or reverse current. the direction “only down”. Install the internal block on the mounting panel on the wall. Make sure that the block has firmly and reliably sat on the mount and is put strictly horizontally.

Similarly, connect the highway and electric cable to the outer air conditioner unit.

Using a vacuum pump, fill out a freon line for 15 minutes. To do this, connect a flexible hose with a vacuum pump using a quadruple valve from which you need to remove the lid.

When the given vacuum reaches the specified vacuum pump, open the 1/4 valve by 10 s and check the track for tightness using soap solution in places of compounds. Disconnect the vacuum pump hose from the system.

If the length of the highway exceeds 7 m, you have to complete the contour with a freon.

Attention! Make sure all the elements are connected reliably, otherwise fluid leakage is possible!



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