sewing secrets that mechanics have kept from us
There are a lot of nuances and little tips on how to work properly on a sewing machine, as well as how to adjust it with your own hands if necessary. Trouble may await us at the most unexpected times, for example, when you need to sew something urgently, and some little breakage happened. 8 interesting sewing secrets that mostly mechanics know are told in detail below!
Secret: the sewing machine does not move the fabric well? There is a simple solution
If the machine does not move the fabric well when sewing, just adjust the teeth. They don’t come out hard enough.
Let go with an allen key here is such a screw:
Adjust the eccentric and tighten it back.
Secret: The sewing foot does not stand straight
There is only one screw on the stem of the foot holder. unscrew it a little, loosen it. Now you can turn the presser foot however you like. Fix it flat and tighten the screw back on.
The secret: The machine does not correctly adjust the needle thread tension
Remove the side plate for this adjustment. You need to loosen the two screws:
After you remove the thread tension adjustment mechanism, loosen the tension to zero and check for dirt.
If you have cleaned everything and the tension is still bad, then you need to increase the pressure on the spring. Press the plate, twist and release the plate. The pressure on the spring is increased.
Secret: The machine jumps when sewing
It’s very easy to correct this problem. Often the manufacturer puts decorative feet on the back of the machine.
And underneath there are screws to adjust the machine. Simply tighten up and put the feet back on. The machine is now level and secure!
Secret: sew on knitted fabric without a special needle
A normal needle makes a lot of skips on stretch fabric. To solve the problem, you can lower the needle by 2 mm.
The difference of sewing this way is obvious (left. after adjustment).
Secret : what is the hole in the presser foot holder?
This hole is needed to install the guides, which will help with stitching and embroidery.
Secret: how to use the sewing machine needle threader correctly?
Lift the needle to the highest position, then insert the needle threader by the hook from left to right and that’s it! The needle is threaded.
Secret: The thread tension on the bobbin is too low
Did you know that the sewing machine can simultaneously sew and wind the thread on the bobbin? If your machine does not wind the thread tightly onto the bobbin, you need to increase the tension of the thread. For this you need to make a simple adjustment! The machine will immediately start winding tight and tight.
Learn more about the secrets of adjustment and ongoing sewing machine repair with your own hands in the video below:
Overlock stitching is an important step in creating or repairing a garment. Sewing the edge of the fabric helps to make the product strong, beautiful. Thanks to it, the edges do not crumble, becoming strong. Rapid stretching is prevented. Clothing that has been properly processed is not easy to tear. If the edges are left “raw,” the fabric will not last long.
Important! Overlock stitching on any sewing machine is only an imitation of quality workmanship.
Sewing is also an important step in restoring and repairing old clothes. It helps restore the fabric edges to their former appearance.
What criteria for choosing a sewing machine for home
When choosing a sewing machine for home, you should pay attention to the following parameters:
- Power: the stronger the machine, the more dense fabrics it will be able to pierce;
- Number and types of stitches: chosen individually depending on the purpose of work;
- Number and types of legs: it is better to choose a machine, staffed with a maximum number of devices. On the price it will have little effect, but will not allow you to look after a suitable foot if necessary;
- Material: cheap models partly make the insides of the plastic, which can not withstand a large amount of work;
- The manufacturer: it is worth to stop at a well-known and proven firm, even if its products are more expensive. Usually their products are of higher quality than those of an unknown company, there is a network of service points, there are no problems with the availability of spare parts;
When buying a little-known company, it is worth finding out in advance which parts and accessories fit it, so that you can quickly find a replacement if necessary.
How to learn how to sew: learning to sew with a machine from scratch
When you go to the store with clothes, for curtains for the apartment or decorations for the house, you have the impression that you have already seen it all somewhere. You lack a fresh approach to color and design. You also can not afford an expensive closet or accessories unique from the designer. Maybe you are looking for a creative hobby that will not only be interesting, but also useful every day?
Ask your relatives or friends if they have a sewing machine that they don’t use. It’s a great start to practice. And if sewing does not capture you, there will be no regrets about the money spent on your own machine.
And if it captures, then you will acquire not only a passion, but also beautiful, handmade, and most importantly original things.
Below we will try to tell you how to start learning to sew with a machine, even if you have never tried it before.
If you are a fan of retro, and maybe even a collector, or you just pity to throw away an old suitcase or even a trunk and a samovar from the last century, then you here. This topic is just for you. And I’ll start by telling you how to walk. at night in the driveway or the garbage dump. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not a bum, I’m a very pretty young lady.
But sometimes, when I come home, I unexpectedly stumble upon some very necessary things. So, it all started with the fact that I was coming home late (around 11 pm). I walk into our driveway and I see. In the corner of the doorway orphaned bed from the sewing machine Singer! My eyes, immediately took on a frantic round size, and I swiftly flew up to the 8th floor, yelled to my son and we lugged this cast-iron bed into the apartment’s anteroom. I must say that my husband was not present at that moment! After dragging this heavy cast-iron, I almost immediately went to bed, not even knowing about the battle of creative projects and fantasies that will break out in our family the next day. I practically woke up to a loud scream from my HAPPY husband, HORAAAAA. Nice legs for. MANGALA! Well no, interrupted him a happy daughter, a small table in the hallway! My son was indifferent to the general glee, and then I sleepily and grudgingly murmured: “The dresser in my bedroom!”and went back to sleep. Said it and cut it off! After all, I dragged the bed to the 8th floor and all on foot! The thing is that in the attic of my parent’s cottage has long been dusting the table with a sewing machine Singer. How it was there and where the bed from it, history is silent. But as usual the stars aligned and everything fell into place.
Let’s go back to the history of Singer and its production in Russia. My sewing machine is stamped with a serial number T280032. After searching on Singer‘s site I found that this series of machines has been produced in Podolsk since 1906. Considering that about 600,000 machines were made per year, I think the machine was made between 1906 and 1910. That is, it’s about 100 years old! On this occasion, I decided to restore and decorate it.
Looking for a creative solution. It should be noted that this beautiful machine has been preserved not only in my family. Plenty of families keep this truly treasured. Despite the fact that this machine performs only one stitch, but what a. You can sew the finest cambric and sew sacking for potatoes at the same time. White Sewing Machine. That’s what a lot of sophisticated housewives call it. Until now, there are still masters who repair these machines, and from the native site Singer can download a description of the sewing machine. For those who no longer have this machine, you can still find a great solution.
The cast iron bed. Let’s start at the bottom, that is, with the cast iron bed!
For starters, I dragged this awful frame that smelled awful of bedbugs or cheap cognac, whichever you prefer. TO THE CAR WASHER!
Yes, and that’s where the carwasher’s crazy look came to life for the first time in my life. The bed had to be thoroughly cleaned, because machine oil and tiny particles of cloth dust had accumulated on it for years. After washing the bed in the car wash, I saw that it has 2 wheels on one side of the machine, previously just not visible behind all the dirt. I also realized that the bed had cast iron cracks in it. Apparently it was not very “gentle” down the stairs. But, savvy. that’s all we had! And I took the car to the car service. tire fitting. For not too much money, the guys did two important jobs for me, and they didn’t cost much at all, practically “for the idea”. Specifically, they welded the cast iron and sanded off the rest of the old paint. YES, you will now say why sandblast and already have rust paint, but believe me after welding it was necessary!
Next, the frame was loaded into my car and taken to the cottage. At the cottage I painted the frame in glossy black. For this I used this paint ALPINA on rust.
I like this paint, it’s much cheaper than the well known Hammerite, it’s very hiding, dries fast and has nice colors. It took me less than a quarter can of paint to paint the frame in 2 coats. I painted with a synthetic, narrow brush. I scrubbed off the smudges in acetone. The paint takes 2 hours to peel, 24 hours to completely dry. This is what I got:
After I finished painting the frame in one day, I was excited to DIFFERENTIZE the sewing machine. I started by simply unscrewing the machine itself, from the wooden part of the dresser. Next proceeded to the disassembly of the dresser. I want to say a few words about the order of disassembly. You think it’s easy? NO! You are deeply wrong, unscrewing every screw, pulling off every nail, you need to remember that this is the “native” fittings. It is these screws or similar screws you will later screw back. So you will need a piece of paper and a sorting chart. On a piece of paper you should draw a sequence of assembly / disassembly. And also, if necessary, the location of EVERY screw and nail. Set aside a drawer for each piece of hardware.
So let’s disassemble it. You will need an electric screwdriver, a small screwdriver and a hammer.
How to sew knitwear with a double needle: detailed guide
Working the bottom edge or finishing a parallel double stitch on knitwear on a sewing machine using conventional needles and stitches can be quite a challenge. The stitches may be out of alignment, the parallel stitches may be out of alignment, the stitch may pull the knit or cause it to undulate. and so on.
Fortunately, there is a double needle, the correct use of which will help avoid most of the possible listed problems. Whatever you’re sewing, a knit top, t-shirt, knit dress or other product, the tricks and tips below will help you work the double needle with knitwear and get the best results.
How to sew knitwear with a sewing machine: 5 ways
What is a twin needle?
A double, or double-stitch sewing machine needle is a fixture in which two needles are placed in a single holder. It is designed for the sewing machine to sew two parallel stitches on the front side, while on the wrong side of the work the thread is laid as in a zigzag stitch. If your machine knows how to zigzag, it will probably be able to double-needle too.
Working with a twin needle produces two even, parallel stitches that are good for finishing garments made of different materials. But since the stitch is elastic, the twin needle is especially useful for stretch fabrics, especially knitwear.
Please note that when sewing knitted fabrics, a twin needle is the best choice. The tips of the needles are not sharp as usual, but slightly rounded. This helps the needles gently push the knit fibers apart instead of tearing them, and protects against holes in the seam. Also, special knitting needles help to avoid skipped stitches.
Which double needle for knitwear to choose?
In addition to the purpose, double needles, as well as conventional needles, differ in the thickness of the rod, that is, the size. Usually a smaller number means a smaller needle size. For thin knitwear, respectively, you should take thinner needles (60-75), for thick knitwear. larger size (for example, 90).
Another thing to look for when selecting a twin needle is the distance between the point of the needle. This distance will be the distance between two parallel stitches made with this needle. Normally, double needles for knitwear needles have a point spacing of 4 mm, but 2.5 mm can also be used.
Sewing knitwear: little tricks and tips
How to thread a sewing machine with a twin needle?
Check your machine manual. Some models have special options for twin needle work. If so, follow the instructions.
For overhead stitches, we will need two threads. If your machine has two spool holders, place the spools on them. If there is only one holder, rewind the thread onto two bobbins and place them one above the other on the holder.
Next, thread the machine as usual. But try to keep both threads running side by side, not weaving together in the process, this can make further work difficult.
Some machines have two thread guide hooks for double needle work. If your machine has this option, pass each thread through its hook. If not, skip both threads in one. And then, again, being careful not to tangle the thread as usual, thread the needles.
How to work with knitted and crocheted fabrics
In the machine settings, select straight stitch (unless your machine manual suggests otherwise).
Try a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 mm to start with. When choosing your stitch length, be aware of the elasticity of your knitwear. The longer the stitch length, the less elastic the stitch will be, because the zigzag on the back side will be less frequent. That is, if you want a more elastic stitch with a twin needle, choose a shorter stitch length. within reason, of course.
When sewing knitwear with a twin needle, you can slightly decrease the tension of the thread. This will make the seam flatter, without a bulge between the stitches.
You have to look for a compromise when doing this, as too little upper thread tension will allow the lower thread to pull the stitches down from the wrong side:
The best thing to do is to stitch on slightly different settings on several pieces of your knitwear and check the finished stitches for elasticity:
Choose the option where the appearance of the stitch on the front side and the degree of elasticity satisfy you as much as possible.
Usually when sewing with a double needle, it is not recommended to do backstitching. Probably the point of this restriction is that the threads can get tangled. But you can try it on your fabric, it might work.
How to prevent the top layer of fabric from stretching
To keep the fabric from stretching and laying flat, use water-soluble stabilizer tape or other suitable stabilizer.
Compare the stitch with stabilizer on the left and without stabilizer on the right:
You can also nudge the fabric slightly under the presser foot with an awl or other sharp object.
Another option is to use a walking foot to evenly feed the top layer of fabric.
Tightening of material between stitches: How to minimize
This is quite a characteristic of double-needle stitches on stretchy materials. But the pulling can be minimized.
First, try reducing the tension of the upper thread as described above.
Another tip: use both needles to sew through the same number of layers of fabric. Although the option in the photo above looks nice and neat from the wrong side, it increases the tightness of the material between the stitches.
You can also use an elastic adhesive duplicating material.
Missing stitches: how to avoid
Usually the machine skips stitches when the foot is in an uneven position, encountering some thickening or obstacle.
Trim the seam allowance and lay it out in different directions to make this section flatter.
You can also use plates to go over difficult areas.
You can also tap the bulk areas with a hammer before sewing.
Life Facts for Overlock Machine Owners
If you have an overlock, use it to trim the edge of the garment you are going to hem with a double needle.
This makes the double needle stitch on knitwear more even and professional looking, prevents the fabric from pulling down between stitches, and gives a neater look on the wrong side.
How to sew knitwear with a sewing machine: 5 ways
You can sew knitwear also with an ordinary sewing machine. The main thing is that the knit stitch must retain elasticity along with the fabric. Otherwise the stitch will tear.
Many types of knitwear do not shrink, so the processing of the product’s cuts is not required. Sewing is sufficient. There are five ways to make “knit” stitches with a sewing machine.
It is only suitable for worsted knits, because it has no elasticity. When sewing details, the fabric must be pulled slightly toward you. Then it will take its original shape, and the stitch will be strong. After sewing the patterns, press out the seam. Multi-purpose ironing pad available from Burda.
Suitable for all types of knitwear. Zigzag stitching does not bind the fabric during sewing. Set the length and width of the stitch to a minimum on the machine, the stitch must be narrow. Do not stretch the fabric when sewing details. After sewing, press out the seam allowances.
Sew with two straight or zigzag stitches that are parallel, 3 mm apart. First sew one stitch with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. Then step back about 3 mm to the side of the seam, and sew a second stitch. Trim the excess seam allowance close to the stitching. Sewing scissors are available at Burda.
To maintain the elasticity of your knitwear, pull the fabric taut while sewing with two straight stitches. Such a seam is stitched on one side.
This stitch is appropriate for all types of knitwear. Double-needle sewing is a feature of almost every modern sewing machine. Follow the double-needle sewing instructions. First thread the left needle, then the right needle. Sew very slowly.
Stitching is kept elastic by the zigzag stitching of the hook thread on the back side of the seam.
This narrow stitch is specifically designed for sewing knit fabric details on a sewing machine and the ability to completely smooth out seams.
If there is still a need to process open cuts, use a stitch that mimics an overlock stitch.
The result is a strong seam and a trimmed edge, like on an overlock.
For convenience, overlock stitching is performed using the edge foot. The width of the seam is approximately 5 mm. Do not stretch the fabric while sewing.
How to get a knit stitch on a sewing machine
The rounded end of the needle will not pierce the material, but expand it. This is mostly necessary when sewing thin materials (under traditional threads they can unravel). But if the fabric is dense enough it can be sewn with a classic needle without the possibility of tearing.
Specialty threads refer to polyester threads. You can buy them at any textile store.
In newer sewing machines, there is a top feeder, which is designed to move the top layer of fabric.
Sometimes needlewomen lay cardboard (can be either on top of the product, or underneath). The work goes directly on the cardboard, at the end it is simply removed.
Before you start sewing, you need to practice on a piece of unnecessary fabric.
Tricks of sewing knitwear on an ordinary sewing machine
Many who have tried to sew knitwear on an ordinary sewing machine have noticed that often the machine refuses to make a nice and even stitch. Knit stitches create gaps, the lower thread loops, and sometimes rips. Why does this happen and how can it be corrected??
First. first, for sewing fabrics from knitwear uses a special knitting machine, it is called a flat. sewing machine or chain stitch machine. Stitch on the back side is similar to a “pigtail”. Look at any factory processing of a t-shirt and you will see that.
Second. second, for stitching the sections of knitwear knitting overlock is used, which has a differential (stretching the fabric) rail while laying a stitching chain stitch.
And thirdly, special needles and threads are used for sewing knitwear. The last point is crucial for your sewing machine, so let’s figure out what needle you need to sew knitwear, what thread to use for quality stitching and consider other factors that affect the quality of the stitch.
Needles for sewing knitted fabrics
There are many reasons that affect the quality of the resulting stitch when sewing knitwear. One of them. the wrong needle. The universal needles that are most commonly used on sewing machines are “bad” for sewing knitwear. Not only can the sharp edge of the needle damage the weave of the knitted fabric, but it can also be the cause of too small a loop near the eye of the needle. And the hook spout just passes it without catching the upper thread. This results in a skip.
Replace the needle with a special needle with a rounded point designed for this material. A needle with this point does not pierce the knit fibers, but passes between them and creates the best conditions for loop formation. On the packaging of such needles is labeled “Jersy” and “ball point” means that the needles have a rounded point.
However, you should know that buying a pack of special knitting needles does not always solve the problem, especially for older type sewing machines, such as Podolskaya or Chaika. There are a number of other factors, which will be discussed below.
This diagram shows the knit weave of stretch type fabrics. In appearance, it resembles knitting with knitting needles or on a machine, that’s why it is called knitting fabric. “Springy” loops give fabrics many useful qualities, such as stretchiness, weak crease, etc., But at the same time create certain difficulties in sewing them on conventional domestic sewing machines.
Threads for knitted fabrics and their tension
No straight-line machine “likes” to sew knitwear. Knitting for a shuttle stitch sewing machine is a challenge that not all machines can withstand. True, modern household machines are quite able to cope with this task, subject to certain requirements. As you have already realized, one of them is quality thread and proper thread tension.
Sewing threads should be thin, elastic and strong. Basically, all kinds of modern threads available on sale in the accessories department meet these parameters. Nevertheless, you need to experimentally determine what type of thread is best for your machine.
Naturally, you need to “forget” about finishing thick threads, and even more so about threads from grandma’s old stockpiles. Ideally, for sewing knitwear suitable thread on large cone bobbins, but since they are quite expensive, use thread on small spools, such as “Ideal.
Before you sew knitwear need to properly adjust the tension of the upper and lower thread.
Usually the bottom thread should not be adjusted, but when sewing knitwear, it often helps to eliminate looping of the thread in the stitch. If the looping at the bottom does not stop when you pull the upper thread, try loosening the tension of the lower thread.
Please note that when you sew on knitted fabric, the stitch will be slacker in one direction (usually crosswise). Eliminate this “effect” with the tension will not work. Simply knitted fabric under the influence of the foot and teeth rcake stretches, and then takes its former shape and the stitches are loosened. By the way, you have to adjust the foot pressure, too.
To eliminate this use stabilizers (pads) including pre-cut strips of newspaper. Under the fabric is placed a paper strip, and after, gently pulled out of the seam. By the way, it is often this “tricky” way to eliminate skips in the stitch in a sewing machine Podolskaya or Chaika.
But, of course, this is too extravagant a method to use, which is undesirable. If you have replaced the needles and picked up thread, adjusted the tension, and loops and skips do not disappear, then you need to adjust the sewing machine. But setting up for sewing knitted fabric can only be done by an experienced craftsman.
What is the difference between a knitted overlock
Almost all modern household overlocks are knit overlocks. The main difference between the knitted overlock and a regular overlock is that the knitted overlock has a special device rails (teeth under the foot). During work, the rail specifically compresses (stretches) the knitted fabric, and after weaving, the fabric is stretched (pulled down) back. As a result, the seam is tensile and can withstand more tensile stress.
For example, if you stitch on a regular machine knit fabric, and at the same time strongly pull the thread tension to eliminate slack in the stitch, you get a very nice stitch, but not strong. Stretch this area with your hands, and your beautiful seam will simply burst. This is the main purpose of knitting machines. to perform elastic and stretchy stitch.
Overlock with a differential rail can sew not only knitwear. This feature is easy to turn off, with a special knob. And even on the contrary, you can “force” rail collect fabric. You need to know that overlocks of older models, including overlock class 51 can not perform quality processing of knitted fabrics. And don’t be surprised if the joining seams of knitted garments worked only with a three-strand overlock over time will burst.
Other reasons why the machine does not sew knitwear
And lastly. Sewing Machine Podolsk or Chaika sewing machine often refuses to sew knitwear at all. And even a master can’t always set it up to sew knit fabrics. If you want to check the work of a sewing machine repairman, ask him to stitch a piece of the most “harmful” knitted fabric at the end of the work. If the stitch will not have even a single skip, then it is a “good” and experienced master.
Older machines have a different adjustment of the interaction between the needle and the hook spout. After all, in those days, when they were released, no one suspected that such fabrics would be used in abundance. Therefore, modern machines are set up to sew knitwear, but the old machines need to readjust.