How to replace a belt with a sewing machine

How to replace a strap belt with a knife drive

I want to share my experience of replacing the belt on the old foot machine “Zinger”. Rather, the experience of creating a belt from improvised means.

It so happened that they gave me a machine, which I had long dreamed of. They have not used a machine for a long time, and it looks pretty battered. I was not sure if she was a worker. But when examined, I realized that only a drive belt is missing. And the idea arose to build a belt of the most improvised means.

In a construction store, I bought a rope (as it was named in the store). a dense nylon cord with a diameter of about 1 cm.

Then at home I put on a cord on a machine, noted the desired size. To do this, I had to remove the cord fence on top of a typewriter near the fly wheel, it is not difficult, it is screwed on one bolt.

Without removing the cord, I lowered the machine into the table, cut off the cord not on the mark, but reducing it by about 1.5-2 cm, so that then the tension was sufficient to scroll the fly wheel. The lighter sewed the ends of the cord and, while they were melted and soft, the movement quickly gave them a round shape so that the joint was as accurately as possible. I took a needle with a thick ear, a strong nylon shoe thread and sewed the ends of the cord right under the table, without pulling out the cord from the machine.

Gently raised the machine, watching that the cord did not slip out of the grooves of the fly wheels.

I had doubts that the kapron rope was quite slippery and would slip on the fly wheel. But the result exceeded all my expectations, the machine copes with any fabric, the belt does not slip. In the photo of the firmware, a jeans fabric folded in 12 layers.

I would be glad if my experience is useful to someone. If questions arise, I will be happy to answer.

Secret: The sewing machine does not advance fabric? There is a simple solution

If during sewing the machine does not advance fabric, you just need to adjust the teeth. They do not go to the surface very well enough.

Let us release such a screw with a hexagonal key:

Adjust the eccentric and tighten it back.

Replacing the strap of sewing machine Podolsk, Seagull.

Replacing the electric motor belt (with electric drive) in Soviet sewing machines of the Podolsk type, seagull 2.3, 132m, 134a, 142m, 143 and other models and components order from Aliexpress below the belt list to the electric motor. Belt on the knife machine Seagull, Podolsk. Brave belt genuine leather. Electric motor with pedal and belt (set). Spread cap (shuttle) on the Seagull, Bernina, Brother, Elna, Janome and TD Spray Collusch (Chelnok) on Soviet Singer, Podolsk. Spulks Transparent plastic 10pcs Powerful LED light bulb. The bulb is ordinary. Needles (10pcs) Factory. Needles (10pcs) Japanese. Professional shops for sewing components 1. CKPSMS Official Store. 2. SEWINGPARTS Store. 3. ASEWING ACCESSORES BURLAP Store. #Remennachyka #installation of aimnapodolsk

© 2005. 2022 “Catalog of websites No Follow”. In the catalog 84963 sites. The rights to all materials posted on this site belong to their authors. Hosting Place advertising

How to set the correct position of the gear belt

If you have to independently install a sewing gear belt in the correct position, then be patient, since this process is quite complicated and very uncomfortable.First you need to completely loosen the belt tension and take the tensioner aside.Then you need to remove (move) the belt from the pulley. There is only one place where it can be done relatively convenient. in the area of ​​the upper pulley.Put the strap from the pulley with your hands without using the tools, otherwise you can damage the belt. And where is the guarantee that he will not break in this place over time?

The most difficult thing is certainly not to remove the belt, but to put it back. This is very difficult to do, given that both shafts should at this moment be in the only correct position. That is, the nose of the shuttle should approach the needle and stand above the ears of the needle by 1.5-2.0 mm. How to do this yourself, but probably this operation will probably be easier.

And yet, do not forget that there are two shuttle revolutions on one cycle of needle movement. Therefore, if you check the shuttle for one revolution, the needle will beat the base of the shuttle. Take a closer look, in the shuttle course there is a special depression, it is not for beauty, but for free passing the needle.Perhaps there is nothing more to advise, except to wish for success.

In this video, you will learn the reason for the expensive repair of a sewing machine caused by a cliff of a gear drive belt. You will also learn recommendations on how to avoid this breakdown of a sewing machine.

Which belt is suitable for overlock

Now you can remove the strap and put a new one instead.Now let’s figure out which belt can be put instead of an old worn or torn belt.

First of all, compare the diameters of both belts. They must be the same. Or have small differences and one or another side.Second, for overlock it is best to use a new.sample belts, with “cloves” (on one or two sides), as in this photo.Round or conical belts can also be placed, but with a large load they often “slip”. You have to constantly tighten them, which is not always convenient to do, there is no tool at hand or there is no time to disassemble the overlock.

A simple way to manufacture and replace a drive belt with a zinger’s foot machine.machine machine

I want to share my experience of replacing the belt on the old foot machine “Zinger”. Rather, the experience of creating a belt from improvised means.

It so happened that they gave me a machine, which I had long dreamed of. They have not used a machine for a long time, and it looks pretty battered. I was not sure if she was a worker. But when examined, I realized that only a drive belt is missing. And the idea arose to build a belt of the most improvised means.

In a construction store, I bought a rope (as it was named in the store). a dense nylon cord with a diameter of about 1 cm.

Then at home I put on a cord on a machine, noted the desired size. To do this, I had to remove the cord fence on top of a typewriter near the fly wheel, it is not difficult, it is screwed on one bolt.

Without removing the cord, I lowered the machine into the table, cut off the cord not on the mark, but reducing it by about 1.5-2 cm, so that then the tension was sufficient to scroll the fly wheel. The lighter sewed the ends of the cord and, while they were melted and soft, the movement quickly gave them a round shape so that the joint was as accurately as possible. I took a needle with a thick ear, a strong nylon shoe thread and sewed the ends of the cord right under the table, without pulling out the cord from the machine.

Gently raised the machine, watching that the cord did not slip out of the grooves of the fly wheels.

I had doubts that the kapron rope was quite slippery and would slip on the fly wheel. But the result exceeded all my expectations, the machine copes with any fabric, the belt does not slip. In the photo of the firmware, a jeans fabric folded in 12 layers.

I would be glad if my experience is useful to someone. If questions arise, I will be happy to answer.

Helios acoustics restoration 100⁠ ⁠

Another post, a little photo and the story of the salvation of the columns.

This time, concert pop acoustics under the code name “Helios 100”

Manufacturer. Kazan Power Plant. Produced from 1986 to 1991.

This acoustic system was used to voice medium.sized concert halls. It was equipped with an amplifier “Helios-1500” or “Helios-001”.

The range of reproducible frequencies: 40. 18000 Hz

Acoustic design is performed by the type of “onken”

detailed information is freely available on the Internet.

Unfortunately, only one column from the kit managed to get.

The plate with the name AC and the image of the frequency response on the front panel was also “lost” by the former employee of the city recreation center, from the garage of which this copy was actually saved.

View, already traditional for acoustics of those times. Rotten suspensions, mold and traces of the vital activity of mice inside the body.

In any case, the coils of speakers in a working state, which means you can make a little effort and make a good thing for some time linger in this world.

The column was cleaned and dismantled. Factory dermatin was badly damaged during the years of operation and was subject to replacement. The case was impregnated with a protective agent and leveled in places of strong deformation using epoxy resin with diluted wood chips. New handles for carrying and rubber legs were ordered. Suspensions for speakers.

All interior space is glued with bitumen vibration isolation. On top, noise insulation based on foamed rubber. The seams have passed by a silicone sealant.

Since the new hands had slightly smaller dimensions than broken factory and simply fell into the case, transition plates were cut out of sheet metal.

The basket is made by casting method of high pressure from aluminum alloy.

A little more and with a large number of photos about replacing suspensions, it was written in the previous post.

Acoustic carpet was used for fragmenting the housing.

A more practical and wear.resistant solution, compared to thin and easily tearing dermatin.

Several photos of the assembly and installation of speakers.

New fastener for the front panel. Painted protective nets and decorative linings.

By the way, it was not possible to find a factory sign. Sorry, there would be a completely different look.

Full sewing machine. Adjustment of the nodes

But we will assume that you are lucky, and they easily unscrewed. Completely unscrew the screw and clean the cone plane of the screw and the inner surface of the conical deepening. Naturally, after that they need to be lubricated abundantly and put back. Cm. just how to lubricate the sewing machine

After all the screws (alternately) will be lubricated, the gaps of attaching the foot drive should be adjusted.

The denser the cone is clamped, the less knock will be published by the foot drive. Completely (until it stops) they cannot be delayed. Excessive puff is the reason for the tight drive of the drive, but it is also impossible to weaken too much, otherwise the drive will knock when working. By the way, the foot machine is often knocking for another reason, but more on that below.

In order to accurately adjust the tightening of the screws, you must first fully, to the stop, tighten the screws on both sides (within reasonable limits), and then loosen them for half a turn or a little more.

Features of an electric drive for overlock

Since it was about an overlock belt. You can add a few words about the overlock electrical drives. If you change the drive, then check it for rotation. At overlocks, the drive should rotate clockwise (from itself), for sewing machines, on the contrary (for yourself).

Well, if your industrial overlock of grade 51 has a engine installed in this way, that is, the drive was bought erroneously for the sewing machine, then this theoretically can be fixed. True, you will have to ask for an electrician about this, since only a specialist will be able to change and roll the contacts of the engine winding, or, in extreme cases, a good master for all hands.