How to Put a Rubber Seal on the Multicooker

Repair of Multicookers with Your Hands. What to do if the maker is broken?

Nowadays most housewives know about the convenience and efficiency of using multicookers in the kitchen from their own experience. The use of multicookers at home has become an integral part of the life of the modern housewife.

The purpose of this electric device is to cook a large number of the most diverse dishes. The versatility of the device allows you to stew, steam, fry, boil, steam cook, and so on. This household appliance functions independently, and there is no need to control the cooking process.

However, despite the rather high reliability, like all electrical appliances, multicookers break down over time.

Changing the O-Ring of a Crock-Pot Express Multicooker

11.12.2018

The sealing ring allows the pot to seal and seal properly. Missing or damaged O-rings can cause the appliance to malfunction. Use this quick and easy replacement guide to fix any problems with the o-ring in your Crock-Pot Express Crock Multi-Cooker.

Step 4

Position the unit so that the LED is facing away from the user to allow access to the power cord inlet connector.

Steam is coming out from under the lid of the multicooker? Problems and their cause

We rarely think about how much the multicooker makes our lives easier until it fails. Fortunately, you can fix most problems yourself without calling in a technician. often than not, owners complain about steam coming out of the multicooker and actively blowing out from under the lid while it’s in operation. The quality of cooked food suffers much. meat turns out dry and stiff, and vegetables can even get burnt.

Before you start to find out the cause of steam from the multicooker, it is necessary to understand. whether this phenomenon really indicates a failure in the work of the multicooker or is part of normal operation. The thing is that during pressure cooking, the multicooker automatically relieves excess pressure, which manifests itself as a stream of steam coming out through the steam valve.

When the steam from the multicooker comes out from under the lid, but not from the valve itself. you should stop the cooking process in order not to make the situation worse and not to damage the multicooker.

Fortunately, such a breakdown very quickly draws the attention of the hostess, which means that the chance to figure out the causes of the failure on their own increases.

The cause of improper release of steam may lie in the following parts of the multicooker:

How to find the cause

The first thing to check the steam valve: it may be clogged with grease, which blocks the free exit of steam. If heavily soiled, it is recommended that the steam valve be completely disassembled and thoroughly rinsed with dishwashing detergent. With a medium degree of contamination, you can pour water into the bowl and run the “Soup” or “Steam” mode (in modern multicookers. the mode “self-cleaning”), and the resulting steam will clean the valve from grease. After cleaning. rinse the valve with running water.

It is also worth carefully inspect the valve itself for burrs. The valve itself is held by small brackets on the lid, the generated steam lifts the valve and allows steam to escape. The presence of even small burrs and irregularities in the plastic prevents the steam from escaping freely, and it is forced to seek another exit (through the lid).

If inspection of the steam valve did not yield results, you should pay attention to the silicone ring, tightly adhering to the inner lid of the multicooker. When the sealing rubber is loose around the roof, somewhere it is warped or has come off, the waterproofness of the pan is compromised and steam begins to escape through the resulting slots. If the silicone ring is in its proper place, and a visual inspection does not yield results. put the ring for 10 minutes in boiling water. thanks to this, the ring will take the right size and will fit tightly around the lid. Otherwise you will have to buy a new silicone ring.

The last reason is quite rare, but it is worth mentioning. Deformed shape of the bowl may cause a loose fit of the lid and, consequently, steam escapes. The only way out of this situation is to buy a new bowl.

Preventive measures, tips, tips and tricks

After washing the silicone gaskets, to prevent unpleasant odors, wipe them with a cloth soaked in 9% vinegar.

Do not use baking soda to remove grease stains on all parts of the multicooker. There is only one way in which it can be used. It is the addition of baking soda in boiling water. This method removes both plaque and odor from the bowl.

It is always necessary to make sure that the holes of the moisture trap do not get clogged. Any dirt should be removed immediately for effective moisture collection.

Do not expose the opening assembly to water. Otherwise, it should be immediately blotted with a dry cloth and remove all moisture.

If you decide to wash the entire multicooker, then after the procedure, all parts must be thoroughly dried. As a rule, it is not recommended to use the device for a day.

After each wash, the bowl can be wiped with half a lemon or a solution of citric acid. This will remove invisible drops of grease and will be a prevention to prevent unpleasant odors.

Tips for cleaning

To ensure that the lid of the multicooker rinses without any effort, remember some simple but very useful tips. They will be of use to you more than once when cleaning, but they will not harm the appliance:

• Do not touch the mounting parts and sealing gum when washing;
• It is better to clean it the day you use the multicooker, but it needs time to cool down;
• If grease has accumulated in hard-to-reach places, take a toothpick or match. A cotton swab may come in handy;
• After cleaning, wipe the rubber inserts dry with a clean towel so that no detergent residue is left on them.

You should wash the multicooker lid after each time you use the appliance. If you do not constantly take care of your multicooker, unpleasant odors and grease particles will enter the food. Take only 5 minutes to wash, and then you will not need to wash the lid with household chemicals, and the multicooker itself will last you for many years.

Also learn how to clean the microwave from grease inside.

The multicooker can become an indispensable aid in the kitchen and serve faithfully for years, but only with regular care and proper use. Almost all parts of the device need care. the bowl, lid, sealing rubber, heating element, valve, and moisture collector. On the specifics of cleaning each of them you will learn below.

Preparing for the process

Hygiene activities will go easier and faster if you properly prepare the multicooker for cleaning:

• Unplug the appliance by removing the plug from the socket;
• If you have recently cooked food in the container, wait until the heating element cools down completely;
• If the design of the model allows, detach the lid from the body;
• Remove all removable elements. valve, moisture trap, bowl;
• in devices with a non-removable lid take care of the protection of the heating disk. carefully wrap the bowl with polyethylene to prevent water and detergents from getting there.

Also, do not forget to prepare tools and supplies for cleaning. protective rubber gloves, sponge, dry cloth, wet rags.

As cleaners will suit specialized household chemicals or improvised components. laundry soap, lemon, soda and vinegar.

Important! The first cleaning of the multicooker is carried out immediately after purchase. Treatment with a normal dishwashing detergent gets rid of dirt and plastic odor.

How to remove the inner lid in a Redmond multicooker?

Some models of multicookers have built-in internal lids and it is impossible to remove them. Therefore, it is necessary to wash them as follows: pour 1 liter of water into the bowl and boil in the “steam” mode for a few minutes. At the end of the program, open the lid and wipe the inside with a dry cloth.

How to eliminate the smell in the lid of the multicooker?

The lid, namely the silicone seal, should be wiped with vinegar or vinegar water. And be sure to leave the M/boil open after each cooking of any food. I have it slightly open all the time, with a towel on top of the handle. ( it is from a nosy cat). And when you smell the lid, the bowl is in the M/Cooker? Maybe that’s where the aroma comes from?

Thank you so much for reminding me about the vinegar, I will definitely try that. I usually leave my multicooker open after cooking for about 10 hours. The bowl doesn’t smell anything at all. Just the lid. The bell peppers are dominating at this point)

I do this: I pour water into the bowl of the multicooker, add a couple of drops of lemon essential oil, turn on the most intensive mode for 15 minutes and leave overnight. The lemon smell kills everything else. Then let the multicooker air out for a few hours and that’s it

Sounds like my thoughts are going in the right direction! Yesterday I boiled water with vodka, but so far so good. I’ll try oil, thanks.

Rub with vinegar. it will smell like vinegar. Long. Basically, you’re swapping one smell for another. Can be held over clean steam if the seal is removable. Odor will lessen.

To be honest, I don’t really bother with these smells. I bake and cook all kinds of meats, soups, and porridge in the multicooker all the time. The main thing is that biscuits don’t absorb odors! After cooking, I wipe the lid /t. к. I don’t have a removable seal with a damp cloth /maybe an antibacterial one/ and then rinse with water.

I smelled my multicooker.) I distinctly remember the smells of goulash, bell peppers, and meat broth. But since I mainly cook soups and stews in it, the problem with flavors has not bothered me at all. And today I cooked mashed potatoes. Surprisingly, the pungent odors are gone! Maybe the potatoes absorbed? P.S. likely the rubber seal is soaking up the smell. It’s not metal. Try soaking the gasket in a solution with dishwashing liquid or something.

Yesterday I cooked vegetable stew, it clearly had a note of turkey leg, baked a week ago(((( It was quite unappetizing( The seal is not removable, but I wipe it first with a damp cloth, and then with a cloth soaked in vodka) But the main smell, it seems, alas, from the valve in the lid. This is a sad thing.

Redmond RMC-M22 Multicooker

Trouble: no indication, the multicooker does not respond to the control buttons. We proceed to disassemble and try to make repairs with our own hands. Having unscrewed the screws on the bottom, disconnect the bottom part of the stand from the base. We gain access to the power supply, the circuitry and several functional elements. Unscrew 4 screws of the power board.

We examine the transformer for defects, wires. Diagnose the transformer winding with a multimeter. If the transformer is open, replace the fuse, having unsoldered it first. Diagnose diode bridges, transistor. Replace elements and parts if a breakage is found.

Another variant of repair of multicookers with their own hands with the fault “does not turn on”, which gives an alphanumeric error code. Deciphering the codes allows a master who knows them to understand the cause of the malfunction and get to work on fixing it.

For example, the code “e0-e4” displayed on the screen indicates malfunctions associated with short circuits and breaks in the temperature sensors. They are located on the top or bottom of the multicooker. It is possible that the problem is with the fuses, we mentioned above. Different manufacturers have different codes. It is necessary to remove the body of the multicooker and use a multimeter to look for an open circuit, measuring the level of resistance. Then eliminate the detected breaks by replacing or repairing the necessary elements.

Multicooker circuit board repair

Boards, used in modern multicookers, are divided into control and power.

At the bottom of the multicooker, under the scrolling lid, is the main board, which is responsible for heating. Inside the housing is the control board.

Thoroughly inspect the microcircuits. Here are some of the signs of malfunction that can be detected by visual inspection: broken solder joints, delaminated tracks, fouling, blackened resistors, blown capacitors.

If you find one of the above mentioned items, you can repair the board tracks and solder by tinning the damaged parts. Use emery cloth. Fix the solder and the tracks, using varnish, which will protect the circuit from leaks and oxidation. Also, repair or replace parts that are defective or burnt out. We make jumpers out of burnt resistors, use their stems.

Silicone gasket for a Soviet pressure cooker.

The story began when an old Soviet pressure cooker was inherited. I got it cleaned and cleared of sediment over the years, but there was still a problem that I tried for a long time to solve. The gasket on the lid got stiff and the lid would not cling properly. As a result there were some problems when I tried to cook something: some steam was escaping from under the seal and it takes a great effort to build up pressure. If you press the lid with your hands and move it around, you could find a position in which the lid begins to press and pressure cooker. In such a mode it was of course possible to cook, but each cooking became a real attraction with the search of “right” position of the lid. Of course, it was hard to call it normal work. In trying to find a replacement for the bloated gasket, it turned out that this was not the easiest question, even with today’s enormous selection. The original gasket has a complicated profile and nobody makes new ones. On the Internet there were a couple of vague suggestions and more encountered recipes to make such gasket by yourself, with the production of the mold and the subsequent casting of 2-component silicone in this mold. Despite my Soviet upbringing and education I was not ready for this, so I kept looking for “ready-made solutions”. Education prompted me that it is not necessary to exactly follow the profile of the gasket, you just need to ensure a tight and reliable pressure on the lid of the pot and that the gasket is “fit” in the available groove on the lid. This gasket is just the right size. The diameter of the original gasket is 180 mm. BUT. One of the buyers in the reviews wrote (individual thanks to him for that. ) The gasket I bought turned out to be 180 mm too small. Decided to use a 5mm larger gasket for the test. In the end I ordered 185 mm x 6 mm, the gasket fits almost perfectly. Profile, of course, does not match the original (the ordered one is a circle), so sometimes the gasket can slide off the lid. Still, with this new gasket, the pressure cooker lid closes and presses tightly against the body of the pot. The pressure cooker builds up quickly and does not allow steam to escape under the seal. What was needed! Material appears to be silicone, t.е. Is not afraid of high temperatures and is neutral for food. After testing and test boiling, the gasket does not give off any offensive odors. You can hope for a long life. There will not be much of an overview. I wrote here only so that those who are also looking for a gasket for an old Soviet pressure cooker can find a solution. The link opens a large set of options. You need to order 185x6mm