Cracking without overlock
The zigzag line is on almost all household universal machines, so special equipment will not be needed for such processing. Adjustment of the width and length of the stitch will apply this line on almost any type of fabric.
To process sections with a line of zigzag, you need:
How to treat the edge of the chiffon
Professional seamstresses have three common ways to process the edges of the chiffon: Moscow seam or American, zigzag, as well as a combined version. Which way to choose. solve only to you.
Use “American”. The method of narrow tissue processing, which is used in the processing of thin material. Unscrew the cut 0.7-1 cm and select the bend into the edge of 0.1-0.2 cm, then carefully cut the allowance to the seam with scissors. Now turn off the half.processed edge by another 0.2 cm and again select to the edge next to the line that you did before. It should be very subtle processing of the cut fixed with two lines. For evenness, you can put a paper sheet under the fabric when thawing. it will reduce sliding, as a result of which the line will turn out to be as flat as possible. After completing work on the typewriter, carefully remove the paper from the seam. Usually the bottom of the product is treated with such a seam.
Use the zigzag if you need to process internal seams of the product. To do this, turn the edge of the fabric inside approximately 1 cm, and then select from the inside along the bend the smallest and frequent cigarette, then gently cut the excess tissue close to the seam. Use only high.quality threads.0 Then you will be able to avoid many irregularities and other problems. As a result, after this type of processing, a neat edge should be obtained, perhaps somewhat wavy. If the threads will remain along the edge after the stamping, then walk along them with small scissors, cutting close to the line, try, however, do not hurt the seam itself.
Apply a combined option if you do not suit any of the first two. To do this, first process the seams on the overlock with a narrow line of 2 mm, and then bother the edge to the width of the resulting seam and remove it on the typewriter again. As a result, you get a neat even edge. To determine which of the methods is more suitable for you more than others, you can try each of the processing methods in action on a small piece of fabric.
How to crush and sew clothes from chiffon
When working with a narrow and “runaway” cloth, tailors are advised to use discs and special substrates, and even without them can be dispensed with. Before treating the chiffon, put the fabric on the rough tightly. for example, linen. You can cut matter with the help of ordinary tailor, perfectly sharpened scissors.
For convenience in working with seams, it is recommended to use narrow paper (sometimes it is recommended even toilet), which to remove without effort after all operations. Sheets help to preserve the chiffon or other narrow material intact. It will not break and will not “crumble” when contacting the transporters of sewing machines. All pins and needles involved in the work should be thin, sharp, sharpened, without the slightest defect. even the minimum notch will damage the structure of the material. There are several more generally accepted rules for processing chiffon clothing.
How to process the allowances of seams without overlock?
All craftswomen, without exception, dream of acquiring an overlock, with the help of which you can quickly overwhelm the allowances of seams. However, there are more sophisticated and elegant methods of processing the internal sections of the product that are not inferior, and in some cases, superior to the estimated overpass seam. We offer you a hit parade of ways with which you can qualitatively process the allowances of seams without overlock and give your products the perfect look.
Cut with scissors zig-zag. The easiest way to prevent slices to shower is to process them with scissors with zigzag blades. Such pruning will avoid shedding cuts, however, we do not recommend this method on thin silk and transparent fabrics, as well as on fabrics with loose texture, for example, Twid Chanel.
Surfacing seam zigzag. This is a very affordable way for all seamstresses, since almost all sewing machines can perform a line of zig-zag. Gently adjust the allowances along the seams, set the required length and width of the stitch (2.5 mm for light fabrics and 3 mm for dense fabrics) and sweep the allowances along the edge.
Imitation of an overlapping seam. If your sewing machine has an imitation of an overlapping seam, trim the allowances and sweep them similarly to the seam zigzag. The difference is only in the originality of the line.
Processing of allowances in a rampant. This method of proximating proceeds is recommended to use those tailors who want to ensure that the wrong side of the product looks perfect.
This method of processing of allowances can be used when sewing products from cotton fabrics, as well as for sewing blouses and shirts in a sports style. Get parts on allowances at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge. Pass on the allowances. Turn the edge of each allowance up to a width of 0.75 mm, iron and sign it to the product. Set the allowances to the product along the edge. For more details, see the master class processing the seam in the rampant
Star of allowances with a slant. Beautiful inside. a business card of this method. It can be used for sewing clothes from light, medium and thick fabrics.
Before starting work, you need to measure the length of all allowances with an increase in 20 cm and buy a slanting bike with a slope on both sides of 15 mm wide. I scoop the box can be purchased at any accessories store or manufactured independently. When choosing the color of the box, keep in mind that it is considered a special chic for fashion designers to grind the allowances of contrasting in color with a box.
Hard in half so that the lower half is slightly wider than the upper (1-2 mm), iron or accept the box does not need. Wrap the allowance of the product inad. Stick the box exactly to the edge, slightly pulling on the box so that folds or wrinkles do not form.
Control the lower edge of the box so that it is a stitch in the seam. Wipe all the slices sequentially, amplifying. See the master class in more detail
Finished allowances, edged with a oblique fiber shown in rice. 5s. See also: how to make a device for making a slanting inhibitory with your own hands
Double linen seam (French seam). In products of thin and transparent fabrics, allowances shine through the fabric, therefore, their processing should be given especially important, because all the shortcomings of the wrong side in this case will be visible, and this can not only worsen the appearance, but also completely spoil the product. That is why when sewing models from transparent fabrics, a double linen seam is often used. The processing of allowances by a double seam (the second name is the French seam) allows you to pack seams inside the seam. Thus, we get a clean wrong side and aesthetic appearance of the product from the outside.
The idea of such processing is that at first all the allowances are not stuck on the wrong side, as they usually do, but with the front. Then the allowances are cut to 0.4-0.5 cm, the seam is straightened and grinded from the wrong side. Strips of allowances that can be crashed remain sewn up inside the seam. For more details see: three simple ways to perform a French seam
The second masculine line on the wrong side of the product is shown in the rice. 6b.
French seam in finished form on the wrong side is shown in the rice. 6c.
Lite version of the French seam. This method of processing can be used for sewing products from thin cotton fabrics. Get parts for allowances for 1.5 cm width. Log each allowance in half inward to the seam and sour cream or just squeeze.
How to treat a chiffon
Chiffon is the most delicate fabric, like nothing else emphasizing the lightness and airiness of female nature. It is not easy to work with this material even experienced craftswomen: with a cut, the fabric crawls on the table and confidently seeks to move off it. Therefore, when cutting chiffon, it is advisable to lay a piece of dense linen fabric under it. But cutting chiffon is not the most difficult. It is no less difficult to process the edges of the product from this material, here without the advice of experienced seams can not be done in any way.
Keep in mind when working with chiffon use only thin sewing needles, without any defects. The method of processing chiffon depends, first of all, on the product model. If this is an ordinary long skirt, sewn not in an oblique one, then first process the fabric along the cut line with an overlock or a sigzag stitch on a typewriter, and it should be wide and in length and in width. Then bother the fabric by 3-5mm and simply delay. A short skirt can be heated in the same way, as well as blouses, shirts, sleeves from chiffon, bending the edge after processing more than once, but twice.
But at the skirt sewn along the oblique, treat the edges of the product with a small zigzag. This will make the hem more wavy, which will visually decorate the product.
The hem of a lush skirt is striking with a scythe, then the chiffon will lie beautifully without lifting up and not gathering. To do this, treat the fabric section in the second way described in the above, putting an elastic fishing line for a trimmer in the zigzag line, which will give the Podole a beautiful wave. Keep in mind the fishing line for the trimmer is sewn correctly if it can be freely pulled out of the seam, picked up anywhere, t.e. The needle of the machine should not get on the fishing line for the trimmer.
Speaking about the processing of chiffon, you can also mention the so.called “French seam”. It was once used to sew the most elegant products from expensive and light fabrics. This seam is not easy, it must be performed very carefully so that the threads that fall from the cut of fabric into the seam are not visible on the front side of the product.
So, fold the parts of the product in the wrong side and grind with a seam with a 5mm width. Iron the allowances on one side and then cut them to 3 mm. After that, turn the seam to the wrong side so that the details are facing each other with the front side. Now make a new seam at a distance of 6mm from the first. The total width of the allowances of both seams. 1.2cm.
Working with thin fabrics, for convenience, put toilet paper under the seams, which is easy to remove after the end of work. You can use ordinary thin paper, it will prevent the fabric from damage when in contact with the conveyor of the sewing machine.
How to Hand Sew and Overlock Stitch
Some chiffon products are appropriate to process the “Moscow” seam: bent the edges of a blouse or sleeves 5mm in two layers, previously in front of both the guns. Remember, all seams should be performed very carefully, otherwise the entire product will be hopelessly spoiled.
How to cut and sew a chiffon: our tips
In order to avoid the sliding of the chiffon fabric, the cutting table must be covered with a dense cotton blanket and cut directly on it. Thus, you will avoid the fact that the chiffon fabric will slide off the table or shift.
When applying a pattern to chiffon fabric, use a larger number of pins than usual. the distance between the pins will be smaller, the pattern will fit tightly to the fabric and will not shift.
The contours of the details to dark fabrics should be transferred with thinly sharpened white tailor, to light. yellow small.
Even if the circuit in some section is erased, you can easily determine the fishing line for the trimmer of the seam, remembering what allowances you made (as a rule, the allowance for the seam is given by folding 1.5 cm).
Tuck lines on the chiffon. The lines of tucks should be outlined using copy stitches.
They are performed as follows: fold the details in pairs face to face, put and gluate the part of the paper pattern on top, the stitches of the “forward needle” outline the contours of the tuck, while on each second stitch, pull the loop about 2 cm high.
Remove the paper pattern. Put the parts along the suture line and carefully cut the seam, on both sides of the seam should remain the laid snares.
Make a cut slowly so that clear contours of the tuck remain on the front side.
My secret of a light chiffon! Who worked with a chiffon at least once will understand how priceless this article is.
If you worked with a chiffon at least once in your life. silk and other very movable fabrics. You will never forget. how painfully difficult!
When laying out on the fabric of patterns. the choice of their best. compact placement (a. especially. If the fit is required. combination of fabric patterns), to observe shared threads and threads of the base. When staging the outlets of the patterns, a skew of the threads of the chiffon occurs. This is exactly the catastrophic mistake that. if it happened and is not fixed right there. at this first stage. Be sure to prove itself in finished product with unstable defects: a crooked hem of a skirt. an uneven bottom of a dress or blouse. asymmetric wounds. differently planted sleeves and other disadvantages of the appearance of the product.
The complexity of the chiffon is. Speak of fabric. at the very first. the most difficult and most important stage of sewing the product. leads to that. that many tailors. once tormented with a complex fabric and not getting a quality product. They begin to avoid. Refuse such orders.
Of course. The tailors sought ways. which would help them curb a “self.willed”, beautiful and complex fabric!
First. what comes to mind. когда человек сталкивается с такой проблемой — постелить на стол что-либо удерживающее от перекосов или стабилизировать саму ткань. to force her to lie down exactly. Without displacement.But in fact. change its properties to the entire process of sewing the product. to exclude this unpleasant feature. the mobility of fabric threads. their skew. Then the finished thing can be soaked. Wash. rinse.
Impregnate a weak solution of gelatin. (Found a recipe: 3 teaspoons of gelatin per 1 cup of cold water. Insist 30 minutes. Heat on fire. But do not boil. Dilute 3 liters of cold water in a basin. Soak the fabric. Leave for an hour. then squeeze slightly and dry.)
Soak the chiffon in water and densely soap the fabric. Laid out on a flat surface. dried and t.D.
After all the manipulations, the resulting completely different fabric is covered with a completely different in their plastic properties.
You like these tricks? I don’t! If the use of varnish does not change the fabric so much. then gelatin and soap is very strong! And the worst. add another problem. How to lay out or hang fabric for drying. To prevent the skewing of threads?
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So how easy and just cut a chiffon? Without changing its properties at all. be able to make the most accurate cut? And already on the fitting to see such a landing. such an appearance. what it will look in finished form. The same tender. Soft and plastic?
I’ll say right away. that my secret is only the cut! Duplicate. Squeeze. grind. iron. all these subsequent stages remain complex. laborious. requiring great accuracy and careful attitude to fabric.
First of all, you need a large cutting table. on which you could spread the fabric completely. Bide. I have two folding tables. set to each other with long sides and covered with a piece of linoleum. The total size of the resulting table is 160 cm by 180 cm.
To add mobility. Wheels are fastened to the legs. When I want. For example. Move the table. then I just roll it to another place and just as easily and simply return to the same.
Hemming Chiffon✂️ [With a Rolled Hem] on the Serger & Sewing Machine
Pay attention to linoleum drawing! This is his very important. The necessary feature for the cut!
The side of the square is 25 cm. This is extremely convenient! I can without measuring the fabric. and just putting on the table. see. how width and length it is. I easily find the cut lines at an angle of 45 degrees. I can. laying out a set of patterns of the product, calculate. How much fabric is required to sew things.
So. You have cooked the fabric. put it on the table. leveled on all 4 sides. focusing on straight lines and angles of linoleum drawing. Now you need to fix the material in this position!
The secret of a light cut is. that you just fix the edges of the chiffon with a painting tape, gently laying it on top. so that about 1 cm tape enters the fabric.
Only. please. Do not use tape!
I admit. that I began these experiments with him! He holds the fabric. certainly. Excellent. But after peeling on linoleum, traces of glue remain. which can only be removed with acetone. We will not torment linoleum acetone. Once it turned out. that the painting tape copes well with fabric fixation!
And now. without changing the properties of the fabric. You have complete freedom of action! You can select as much as you like. how to compact more to lay out patterns. Having tried several options. Adjust the picture. If you have a cell. strip. ornament. circle the contours of the patterns (chalk. soap. pencil. a felt.tip pen. that suits you more?) And all this is perfectly accurate. Without jambs! The fabric remains motionless!
Learning to sew and cut from the “capricious” chiffon: rules and tips
The ability to create clothes with your own hands is a unique opportunity to look original, stylish and spectacular. Today, famous fashion designers offer needlewomen to pay attention to chiffon products. However, sewing a beautiful and elegant thing from this material is very difficult: it is moody and requires caution.
Chiffon is a very thin, translucent material, things from which are today at the peak of popularity. However, many seamstresses pay attention to the fact that working with him is very difficult. Difficulties arise both during cutting and in the process of sewing.
Translucent material may have different origin. The most expensive is natural silk chiffon. A considerable experience is needed to work with it: such fabric is very capricious, can give a shrinkage, crumble, and in the process there is a high probability of leaving unreasonable spots. Synthetic chiffon. more common and cheap. It is much easier to work with him, and things are easy, beautiful and stylish.
Professional seamstresses recommend starting acquaintance with a capricious fabric from synthetic chiffon. Working with natural material is highly difficult, and the result can negatively differ from the expected.
Independent creation of things begins with the cutting of the selected material. This happens, as a rule, on a table or floor. When working with a chiffon, put any fabric or object under it (flax, cotton blanket, rugs, etc. are suitable.). As an option, cutting capricious material can be done on an unfolded sofa.
Before work, check the purchased chiffon for the evenness of the edges: sometimes in stores the fabric is cut off crookedly. To eliminate this defect, pull the extreme thread from the corner and cut the edge along the formed line. Some needlewomen prefer it to tear it off, but this approach is fraught with deformation of the material.
It is better to cut a chiffon in one layer. This will take more time, but the details are guaranteed to turn out even.
When cutting, the chiffon may start crumble. Avoid this will allow preliminary tissue processing. Some experienced seamstresses before work lower the chiffon into a light solution of gelatin. This makes the material heavier and avoids strong defects. You can also process exclusively sections. For this, products such as starch water or hair varnish are used.
Most needlewomen fix the chiffon with thin pins. However, such a traditional way can leave traces and even holes on the material. The rejection of punctures in favor of small weights or weighting agents will help to avoid this. Place them from several sides so that the chiffon does not go during work. It is better to transfer the patterns to the fabric with thin soft soap.
Before sewing the cut parts, be sure to check the settings of the machine on a small piece of chiffon. The needle should choose the thinnest, threads. strong. For translucent materials, nylon is perfect: they will be almost invisible to the future product. The width of the stitch should be small, ideal. about 2 mm.
For stitching chiffon, professionals recommend using one of two seams: “French” or “American”. The first is an analogue of the standard linen, when the “wrong side to the wrong side” is first sewn, and then the front to the front. The second is an ordinary only suture. However, in this case, it is performed in millimeters and very carefully. It can be supplemented with processing using an overlock or with special tools that help prevent the spread of the tissue (diluted PVA glue, gelatin, starch, etc.).
Experts can also try to apply other, more complex ways of hugging the edges of fabrics. Among them it is worth noting the Hong Kong seam, as well as the French seam.
Many call the French seam a double linen seam. Most often it is used to decorate transparent matters. If you wrap them in the usual way, then all allowances will be fully visible even from the wrong side. For this reason, the processing of such material must be devoted a little more time.
In this case, the French seam will help. With it, you can hide all the sections inside such a double seam. In addition, the line is not only with the front, but on the wrong side will turn out to be clean and even.
Hong Kong processing
Using this note method, the seamstress will get as a result a rather beautiful and even line. This option is suitable for any fabric. You can make a note using a lining. As a result, all seams are closed.
In addition, the lining itself is also fixed using a seam on the product. At the same time, it is necessary to pay attention to ensuring that the lining material is the same that was used for sewing the product. This is necessary in order to avoid fabric deformation in the future.
The lining should be 1.5 centimeters wider than the main part. When everything is prepared, the lining and the main part of the product must be laid with the front sides together. Then they need to be knocked down with pins, and then stitch. Next, both parts must be turned out, and then carefully iron. Now the lining must be carefully discharged along the suture line, and then stuck on the typewriter.
Когда обе детали будут обработаны, их можно сложить лицевыми сторонами друг к другу и также сколоть булавками. It remains to make the last line and be the allowances. The finished edging looks very beautiful, especially if the color of the thread is perfectly selected to the color of the lining.
As can be seen from all of the above, replacing an overlock when sewing will not be difficult. Therefore, people who sew at home do not have to buy such an expensive tool. It is enough to choose the most acceptable option for yourself, having a note either with the help of a conventional sewing machine, or manually.
About how to process a cut of fabric without overlock, you can find out from the video below.