How to lubricate the shock absorbers of the Washing machine Zanussi

Repair of the shock absorber of washing

Dovers are used in more modern washingships. They differ from shock absorbers in that they consist only of the spring. The shock absorber has a more complex design. Shock absorber device:

This type of shock absorbers is called spring-piston, and is a cylindrical metal device in which the sleeve is located. The rod moves in it during operation. On the upper part there is a special landing for rubber inserts, using the latter it is connected to the drum.

At the base of the rod, the piston with the gasket is fixed. It is impregnated with a special lubricant that does not dry for a long time and increases the friction force during movement.The work of the shock absorber is as follows:

• With sharp jumps, a linear movement of the rod occurs.
• The piston.pushed piston moves inside the cylinder.
• The lubricant creates the necessary conditions for the movement so that it does not slip over.
• When weakening occurs, the rod returns to its original position.

Dampers have the same cylindrical design, only inside the cylinder is only a piston, and holes are made in the walls for air output. The piston is equipped with a gasket that replaces the lubricant in the shock absorbers.

The load that both of these devices withstand is from 100 to 150 Newton.

The device of shock absorbers and dampers of the washing machine

The friction shock absorber (1) is designed for drum washing machines with a centrifugal move. The shock absorber contains a housing (2) and the parallel to its longitudinal axis (2a) and a movable pusher (4), at its end located in the case (2), which was displayed from the housing (2), is mobile, the friction lining is mobile. The friction lining (8) or the carrion of the friction lining (8) the body is equipped with the installation socket (22) for taking the spacer (23). The friction lining (8) is mobile on the pusher (4), the directing element (20) with a preliminary voltage is installed between the friction pad (8) and the guide surface agreed with it or, accordingly, the surface (21) of the sliding, and the spacer (23) is provided To establish a friction and efficient geometric parameter (24) and/or to tension the friction pad (8) to affect the friction force between the friction pad and the agreed sliding surface. The spacer (23) is made in the form of a fixing or fastener element of the guide element agreed with the friction pad (8) (20). 2 n. and 21 s.P. F-l, 9 silt.

Link to the source of the schematic description: https: // findpatent.ru/patent/248/2486299.HTML

Each damper works due to the resulting resistance during the mutual movement of its components. Most of the shock absorbers have a classic configuration and consist of a fixed case, cylinder and movable rod (piston), which walks in the cylinder.

On the rod or inside the case, various polymer and rubber gaskets (sealing rings) are installed, greased with special lubrication, providing tight interaction of surfaces. The damper case is attached to the bottom of the car through a special silent block (rubber.metal hinge), and the rod is connected to the tank of the machine. To ensure longitudinal movement, both parts are fixed using sliding metal fingers, and the finger itself is fixed from the axial displacement of various types.

Shock absorbers in different models of washing machines may differ:

For example, Candy washing dampers have a rather specific body mount. It is attached to the rivets to the bottom of the unit, and the stem is attached to the tank through the sleeve using a bolt.

Bosch washing dampers have a durable plastic case and cylinder with a metallic base. They are attached to the drum with a bolt through a metal rubberized sleeve, and to the case through a polymer sleeve with a plastic finger.

How to replace the spring and other depreciation devices?

The cause of premature wear of the parts is the frequent overload of the washer. If your model is designed for 5 kg and, presumably, 10 years of work, then when loading in excess of the norm, the service life is reduced.

To get to the shock absorber in the SM “Bosch” or the damper in the Samsung washer. LG. “Indesite”, “Electric”, you need to dismantle the rear or front panel (“Electrolyuks” are dismantled by 2 halves. design features). If the machine does not provide the bottom, then it is easier to get through the bottom.

Pre.turn off the equipment from the network. Drain the water through the filter:

• Up the bolts around the perimeter, remove the back wall.
• To remove the front panel, take out the powder dispenser.
• Remove control panels. Put it on the case.

In other cases, just lay the car to one side. There are shock absorbers under the tank. Unscrew their fasteners to the lower or side of the body. Pass it up and down. It is difficult to press the damper in good condition, but if it moves easily, it means that you need a replacement for sure.

The lower fasteners are removed. To dismantle the upper latch, take a drill and a drill to 13. You need to drill a hole in the center of fasteners to squeeze the latches. In another way, they can only be loosened by dismantling the tank, which is not justified. After that, you will get a part.

• Install the insert (gasket) in the shock absorber spring.
• Install it in place.
• Pass the plastic sleeve in the made hole, fixing the element in place.

Replacing damper is much easier, because they are already attached on bushings or bolts. It is enough to remove the holding locks and get the damper from the tank. To change the liners inside the structure, light up the mounting mustache (brackets).

How to replace the liner-spring? Use the segment of the leather belt, which is equal to the diameter of the piston in size. Set it in place, and grease the stem in thick grease.

What is a spring for a washing machine? These two parts are located under the top cover of the smell and hold the tank in a limbo. During vibration, the spring performs reciprocating movements, so the tank does not beat on the wall.

To check whether the suspension is normal or not, press the tank with your hands down and release. If he abruptly bounces and hit the case, then the suspensions are stretched and repair is required. How to replace them:

• Remove the top cover.
• Fix the tank by putting a bar under the bottom.
• There are hooks at both ends of the springs.
• Tighten the product down and unfasten the hook from the tank.
• Now remove another hook from the washing body.

Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

Repair is over. If you have a desire to save on the services of a master, then get to work. Good luck!

Do.it.yourself damper repair

In some models, it is enough to turn the washer to the side, how access to the springs will open. How to do this correctly:

• After disconnecting the machine from the network, disconnect the pouring hose.
• Open a small door under the loading hatch.
• Substitute the container. Twist the filter cork counterclockwise.
• Wait for the drain of water.

Now you can turn the body to the side. If there is a bottom from below, then unscrew the mounts and remove it.

It is more difficult if you have to dismantle the front wall for verification:

• Remove the top cover.
• Remove the tray for detergents.
• Remove the screws around the perimeter of the control panel. Remove it and leave to hang on the wires.
• Open the download door.
• Pull the cuff, remove the clamp with a screwdriver.
• Seal the seal into the drum.
• Remove the screws of the front wall, remove it from the place. Remove the wires ub.

How to make a lubrication of a bearing in a washing machine?

In order to lubricate the bearings of the washing machine, you need to prepare a set of materials and tools in advance:

Lubrication of the bearing of the washing machine will require you to almost complete disassembly of the device. You will even have to pull a tank and a drum out of it. In order for the goal to be achieved, you need to adhere to such an algorithm of action:

The better to lubricate the bearings in the washing machine?

As you ask the question of what grease to choose, you need to focus on the main criteria. It is important to understand that a bearing is a driving part that will work for wear without lubrication. On top it closes with an omentum. He protects the details from moisture. Therefore, it should be a thick water.repellent grease for bearings.

• Waterproof agent.
• Heat.resistant. Water heats up to high temperatures during washing. This should not affect the properties of the product. It should not spread and washed off.
• Suitable for rubber. Aggressive components can damage the oil seal. As a result, he will lose tightness and a leak will occur.

Is it possible to lubricate the closed bearings with “lithol”? We do not recommend doing this. Soon you will have to either repeat the processing or replace the details.

It is better to find out what lubricant is used by professional masters.

• Hydra-2 anderol. Original Italian moisture.resistant lubricant for the bearings of washing machines. Fixed into syringes of 2 ml, which is enough to process two or three parts. Withstands the temperature from −28 to 190 degrees. The composition is neutral.
• Silicon-Fett (Silicon-Fett). This is a silicone lubricant for washing machines that retains the elasticity of the elements. The temperature range is even wider than in previous cases: −40. 200 ° C.
• Huske Lube-O-Eal Ptfe Grease. It is perfect for both rubber components and for a non.collapsible bearing. Synthetic moisture resistant means not only reduces the friction of the nodes, but also protects them from external exposure.

What a lubricant to lubricate the details. choose you. The main thing is to use the same tool for all elements. If you buy a new original reptile, then the sealing ring already has a coating. Therefore, you can only process the bearing.

How to grease the oil seal

Now about how to restore the oil seal with your own hands. Of course, a worn seal is not subject to repair. Remember the simple rule: deciding to replace one element, you need to change the whole kit if you want to perform high.quality repairs.

It is better to lubricate the oil seal with a syringe. Fill in the inner groove of the omentum and install it in place. It remains to collect the smell in the reverse order.

You learned what is better to lubricate the bearings and how to do it with your own hands. The video will help you in the repair:

Algorithm

Modern washing machines are versed in one principle. The main difference is in the device of the tank. For example, in LG he is piercing. Similar in Electrolux, AEG, Sumsung are installed. To extract the drum, you need to release fasteners.

At cars such as “Ariston” or “Indesite” a solid tank. Replacing the entire structure is quite expensive, so experienced craftsmen use several tricks that allow you to replace or grease the bearing and other details without updating the tank entirely.

• First of all, you need to open the door and turn off the car from the network.
• The easiest way in modern devices is pumps are replaced. They are located in the lower part of the car, and access to them is opened through the bottom. Therefore, the first thing to do is to put the car on the side or throw back and rest against the wall.
• Remove the front lower panel.
• In many models, shock absorbers and others are attached to the bottom. Elements. If the inspection and repair of defenders is not needed, it is better not to touch such a bottom, but to remove the front shield. To do this, remove the tray for powder (it is mounted with self.tapping screws and water supply valve).
• Remove the control panel.
• Unscrew.
• Put neatly with a screwdriver, so as not to damage the rubber, the clamp that holds the cuff, and remove it.
• Squeeze out the drum with a cuff and remove the panel.
• Disconnect the wires and set aside the shield aside.
• Now it is easy to disconnect the pump. The most common breakdown in this node is clogging or gap in a pipe (gives a leak and water under the machine) and wear of the anchor / motor (gives vibration when spinning and draining water).
• Clean the pipe and filter from the accumulated litter.
• In the case of a gap or defect of the motor. replace the pump details.

After the first stage, access to shock absorbers / defenders opens. The easiest case is the abrasion of lubrication. To restore it, you need to unscrew the details, put the stem as much as possible, apply a thick, with increased wear resistance of grease on its base and fold and lay out the mechanism several times.

After 10 years of work, the depreciation most often fails completely. The drum begins to “beat”, make noise on an annex, the car. vibrate and “jump”, leaks are possible. In such cases, experts recommend replacing shock absorbers.

Life hack home masters found a way to restore defenders and shock absorbers. To do this, take out the rod, as well as the sealing block-blocker. Pour the “dust” of the gasket and replace it with a segment of a leather belt with a thickness of 2-3 mm and a width of about 21 mm. The segment of the ring is inserted into the defender case necessarily the smooth side to the body. Further, the gasket along with the rod is treated with wear.resistant and necessarily viscous grease. Machine oil quickly cooles and is isolated, such a repair will be enough for only a couple of months.

• Dismantle the back panel.
• Remove the load. a layer that lies over the tank.
• Next. remove the clamp passing the rotation to the tank.
• Using a small screwdriver, squeeze the tongues on the plugs to unscrew the wires from the heater, tank and motor.
• Unscrew and postpone the motor.
• Disconnect the heating element, water sensors.
• Free the fasteners of the tank itself and carefully remove it.
• Remove the remaining load.

After the second stage, the tank opens, in which the drum of the washing machine is enclosed. The connective is disassembled elementary, but in most modern machines the design is whole. It will have to open it, having previously processed the seam with sandpaper.

• Cut or develop a tank and postpone the upper half.
• Remove the gasket or sealant if this layer was.
• Turn the structure and remove the flywheel on the back of the tank.

The bearing has finally opened. But to extract and lubricate it or clean it, you need to free the drum. To do this, make a screw where there was a flywheel, and a hammer through the fabric to knock out the structure from the “saddle”. The pin will leave the tank, and the drum will be separated.

Tip if there is little experience in disassembling the washing machines, photograph every significant step, and sort the screws so as not to confuse them later. This is especially important when connecting wires.

A broken part is easier to throw out. Disassembly should be washed in oil or gasoline, and then seasoned with a half.liquid lubricant. Most often the bearing is simply replaced.

It is important if you want the works not to be in vain, buy high.quality, German or Polish bearings to replace, resistant to moisture and high temperature, vibration and wear.

Often the problem is also found in the seal. the gasket remains without lubrication and is torn or deformed. A faulty part must be replaced by a new. When assembling. it is imperative to apply moisture.resistant thick grease (it is refueling on the inner diameter, through which the bearing will slide.

Having removed everything, you need to carefully inspect the sleeve (a pulley, on which, in fact, a bearing and an oil seal are put on). All rust and lime must be wiped. If scratches open, mask and grind them is useless. you will have to replace the sleeve. The same. if the original bearing “closed”. Trying to cut it with a corner grinder is just risking a drum. Most likely, an attempt to free the sleeve will damage it. it’s easier to put another.

If the bearing is unlimited, it can be washed. For this, the part is spilled with oil, putting the bag and rotating the disk to choose the maximum of dirt.

How to assemble a cut tank of a cut tank at a cut is covered with a polyurethane or silicone sealant, and then closed with gas-gay screws and self-tapping screws strictly around the entire perimeter. If the mount is unreliable, the tank will disperse during the launch!

According to experts, there is nothing complicated to disassemble the car. It is enough to be neat and know for sure what to do. In practice, inexperienced masters often make mistakes, due to which the machine fails. The Miss Cleanliness magazine offers beginners to start by replacing nodes that are easier to dismantle, for example, pumps or shock absorbers, and first try more complex operations on an old car to dispose of.

Test shock.absorbing elements

You do not need to put new shock absorbers on the washing room. first you need to make sure that old malfunctions. You can’t put such a “diagnosis” by eye: you have to remove the racks, inspect and test. There are dampers in the lower part of the machine under the tank and, in order to get to them, partial disassembly of the equipment will be required. The procedure depends on the brand and the brand of the machine.

Do not need to disassemble the machine. On most models, for example, on Bosch, only the front panel should be dismantled. Here, the dampers have a standard design, cling to the housing from the bottom with one bolt, and are fixed on top of the plastic tank with a latch on the rack. Dismantling of shock absorbers is carried out as follows:

• The machine is turned off from the power grid and water supply;
• Self.tapping screws fixing the front cover are unscrewed;

On other washing rooms, including LG models, disassembling the case is not required. You can get to the depreciation system through the bottom. It is enough to turn off the washing machine from communications and put on the left side. After squeezing the plastic “fingers”-strengthening from each end of the racks. If the lock is difficult to remove, then we abundantly lubricate it with the WD-40 cleaner-the fasteners should succumb.

Dovers are located at the bottom of the washing machine.

Depends on the brand of washing machine and type of mounting. On Samsung, Miele and AEG, the dampers are connected to the housing and tank bolts on the M8 and M10, for the unscrewing of which the cloaks or end heads are required for 12 and 13, respectively. On the machines of the Whirlpool brand, shock absorbers are fixed with special latches, easily weakening without tools.

Dismantling and diagnosis of shock absorbers must be performed as accurately as possible. Squeeze and unscrew the fasteners carefully, without strong pressure and the use of “heavy” tools. It is important to monitor the integrity of the racks themselves, a plastic tank and other neighboring elements.

Removed racks are tested as follows:

If the rod enters easily or completely “flies out” from the case, then the shock absorber is faulty and is no longer able to repay out.of.date vibrations. On some racks, it is also important to estimate the amount of sealing lubrication in the piston: the absence of a liquid will say about the wear of the dampers. Signals the unsuitability of details and traces of rust.