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How to launch a split system after installation

Is it necessary to vacuum the air conditioner during the first installation?

Buying a split system and causing an installation command for its installation, we all want a climatic device to save from the heat in the summer, and from the cold-in the spring and autumn. And so that it still worked properly about 6-7 minimum without maintenance. That’s right?

launch, split, system, installation

If the manufacturer’s guarantee is protected from factory flaws, then from the negligence of the installers-only an understanding of the order of installation of a split system. Masters “air conditioners” in 70% of installation work simply do not vacuum the air conditioner, since this is long (about 30-60 minutes) and expensive (a good vacuumor costs more than 12 thousand. ).

Why is it necessary to lower the freon

Air conditioning is an indispensable technique that can quickly cool the room on a hot day. However, sometimes situations arise when it needs to be dismantled. In certain cases, it is very easy to do it. For example, when the equipment completely failed, and they are not going to repair it. With such work, there is no need to maintain the tightness of the main components of the air conditioner.

If the air conditioner is working properly, but it must be removed, then the principle of action is different. The main thing here is to make the dust and air do not get into the system. If this happens, then after the installation and start of the device, the compressor breakdown will almost certainly occur. The main reason for this is the complex design of the vacuum pump.

It is associated with the properties of Freon. It is very fluid, at the entrance to the system very cold, and at the exit. very hot. Therefore, ordinary pumps or compressors are not used in the air conditioning device. The fact is that their gaskets and seals simply could not withstand constant operation in the conditions of a constant temperature difference. High tightness of the vacuum pump is achieved by high.precision adjusting the surfaces of moving parts and internal surfaces of chambers. This is a very complex and subtle work, since even the smallest scratch can cause the compressor to fail. A grain of ice that forms if air gets inside. As a result, moisture freezes and can cause a breakdown.

To avoid these problems, modern air conditioners immediately fill with inert gas, which is removed before the system is filled with freon. For this, a vacuum pump is used.

Councils to launch the air conditioner after winter

Owners of household air conditioners should familiarize themselves with the recommendations of specialists for the launch of the device after winter downtime.

Tips for launching systems:

  • Before starting the air conditioning, double.check the correspondence of the temperature regime on the street and make sure that the system has a sufficient level of pressure for uninterrupted operation.
  • Do not turn on the air conditioner without preliminary cleaning and replacing filters. If this work is not performed, cooled air with dust particles and other pathogenic microorganisms will come out of the system, which can cause tremendous harm to the health of people in the room.
  • Make sure that near the internal and outdoor unit there are no extraneous objects that can create an obstacle to the penetration of air and its departure from the system.
  • Check the integrity of the blocks of the split system. In the presence of any damage to the body, even the most insignificant, you cannot launch the device into the work. Refusion or replacement of the case is required.
  • After turning on the air conditioner, make sure that the device works without interruptions. If one are identified, turn off the air conditioner from the network and invite specialists to check and repair equipment.
  • If after starting the split system it works uninterruptedly, test different modes, double-check the fan at different speeds and the work of the curtain.

Compliance with these rules guarantees high.quality and safe operation of climatic equipment with the exception of sudden breakdowns risks.

The second stage of installation of the split systems

It is very important to install an internal unit correctly, since the quality of the entire system directly depends on this. The most optimal option is to fix the device on the wall with self.tapping screws, if the walls are finished with a gipper, then you should be inserted into it plastic spaces, since such material is loose enough and the screws are quickly shattered from vibration.

If the wall is made of brick, then wooden or plastic “Chepiki” are inserted into the holes drilled for screws, and then the plate for the block is attached with self.tapping screws. Be sure to check with the help of the construction level the evenness of the mounting of the plate.

The next step must be drilled with a penetrator using a penetrator, for a coral tube. Be sure to ensure a slope of at least 15 degrees. It should be outward, not inside.

launch, split, system, installation

Next, it is necessary to connect copper tubes to the internal device of the air conditioner, as well as the drainage tube to a special hose on the device. Now, an electric cable can be brought to the equipment located indoors. For the split systems, the coral production of which is no more than 4 kW, a cable should be used, the cross section of which is not less than 1.5 mm (5 residential).

SPETS Dismantling Methods with the preservation of freon

With further connection, it is possible and not necessary to refuel a refrigerant. If the air conditioner uses 22 freon, then you can just add it a little (without refueling).

How to Install HVAC Ductwork | This Old House

Air conditioner installation

  • The first stage is the most difficult. It is necessary to imagine where the air conditioner blocks will be located, and how the “track” will be laid between them. Each factor should be taken into account here:
    The dimensions of the blocks. You need to make sure that both devices are placed in the planned place. permissible distances to the ceiling and walls are observed. I wrote several articles about this (read the location of the external unit);

  • You must make sure that there are no wires and pipes in places of wall drilling (especially under the internal block);
  • The drainage tube from the inner unit should provide the drain of the condensate “Samoy”. At least the minimum slope should be (5 mm. 1 meter of length). T.e. you can not drill a hole above the level of the inner block. Make sure that water will merge into the street (and not on a neighbor’s balcony, for example);
  • Now you can start installing an internal block. If the “track” will come out of it to the right, then you need to gently turn the copper tubes in the other direction (t.to. From the factory they are directed to the left). You need to do this very carefully without a flex. do not break the tubes (as indicated in the instructions for “Split“). If you look at the photo, the pipes are bent parallel to the floor, and not perpendicular! The connection of the nuts can only be under the internal unit or in the cable channel. In no case should the nuts of copper tubes be inside the wall.

On the mounting plate, mark the center of the block. Then the center is marked on the wall. Do not forget about the distance to the ceiling. Using the level, align the plate and fasten it.

After that, you can estimate the inner block to the fixed plate (but do not snap the lower clips to the plate!). With a pencil, mark the lower corner corners. Then remove the block from the plate.

  • We note where there will be a hole in the outer wall.
  • If the track goes directly (through the wall under the inner block. “direct installation”), then we make the hole in the lower left corner of the block. We mark the hole with a diameter of 45 mm, so that it is closed after the block.
  • If the “track” goes left or right from the block (“lateral installation”), then mark the “track” to the outer wall (with a small tilt). The photo shows the side installation, where the highway has an additional turn inside the room (t.to. The outer wall is shifted). In your case, there may not be a turn.

Gently cut through the wallpaper and beat off the plaster at the drilling point. If the installation is straight or as in the photo above, then you need to make the so.called “entry” to the hole (where the tubes will go into the wall). So that in this place the bend of the “track” is smooth.

  • We proceed to the drilling of the hole. The diameter of the hole for small air conditioners should be 45-50 mm. During the drilling, control that there are no people, cars and other things on the street.
  • For brick or concrete walls, a large peorator and a drill with a winning tip will be required. The first 2-3 cm walls brown without tilt (in a straight line) so that the drill enters a little into the wall. Then be sure to tilt down. During this operation, it is better to use an industrial vacuum cleaner.
  • It is better to drill a wooden wall with a drill with a fever with a diameter of 45 mm. The process will go slowly, but right. Do not forget about tilt the holes down.
  • Metal profile or Sentwitch is better to drill 45mm bimetallic crown. Do not forget about the slope of the holes down.
  • We proceed to fastening the brackets of the external unit. It is necessary to secure them reliably and in terms of level. If the air conditioner is mounted “under the window”, then it is better to immediately fix the bolts on the brackets (for mounting the block). Bolts should look up and should be tightened with nuts. We fix the bolts so that the legs of the block exactly fall on them.
  • After you have done all the “dirty” work, we take a roulette, a leaf and a pencil in your hands. We count with the margin the length of the inter.block communications (this will help the article about the laying of the “track”):
  • 2 copper tubes. For small air conditioners, tubes with a diameter of 1/4 and 3/8 inch are often used. It is important that the ends of the tubes are sealed from the slightest dust;
  • Interlock cable (connecting two blocks). For small air conditioners, 5 × 1.5 VVG is suitable;
  • Drainage hose. It is better to use a specialized corrugated hose with a diameter of 16mm;
  • thermoflex on both tubes;
  • If the air conditioner “eats” to the external unit, then together with the “track” we launch the power cable. For small air conditioners, PVS 3 × 1.5 is suitable;
  • Additional inter.block wire. Some air conditioners have an additional two.core wire. And if there is one, then do not forget about him.
  • If the “track” of the air conditioner will need to be pulled through one hole in the wall, then you can act as follows:

The internal block is conveniently disposed and connect the materials to it:

    . Open the front cover of the case and find the pads. We pull the cable through the back of the case. Record the numbers of the terminals and the colors of the veins, which were connected to them;

  • unscrew the nuts (or plugs) of the tubes with two keys. Usually the air descends. do not scare and make sure that the plug does not fly away anywhere! The following will require such a device as a roller. We pile and connect the tubes, having previously studied how this is done. We need experience to tighten the nuts with a qualitatively (if you do not reach them, then the freon will “leave”, if you pull it, you can tear the thread). For this, someone uses a special dynamometric key;
  • tightly connect the drainage hose to the inner block;
  • If the air conditioner has an additional wire, then connect it to the designed terminal (you will see it).
  • When the tubes are still without a thermal fuel, we can gently bend them under the hole (if the “installation of direct”). For the “side installation” we cut out the plug of the case.
  • We dress thermoflex on both tubes. All tubes (including their wower compound) should be tightly wrapped in the thermoflex so that condensation does not form on the tubes. It is better to use a special tape for fixing.
  • Compactly lay the “track” inside the block and fix it with a tape. Do not forget about the power cable (we bring it out where you need). And also make sure that the drainage hose is below.

How to steal air

DIY SPLS installation implies that you will also have to bring the system itself into working condition with your own hands. Initially, it is necessary to get rid of the disgrace of the system. For this, you need to steal the air from the system.

  • The nut of the service pipe, as well as the traffic jams on the valves of the liquid and gas must be unscrewed.
  • To do this, you need to turn a gas valve 90 degrees with a regular hexagon. counterclock-wise. Remove the air for 10 minutes using a vacuum pump. Then it is necessary to apply a regular soap solution to check the absence of leaks of a gaseous substance.
  • If you do not find leaks, proceed to the stage of connecting the pipeline. You can see more in detail on the video, or watch in the instructions at the beginning of the article.

Checking the conformity of design characteristics with conditions at the facility

Before proceeding with the installation of the air conditioning system, you should check the compliance of the data laid down in the project with real conditions at the site of the air conditioner. First of all, you need to check:


  • place of installation of external and internal blocks;
  • the height of the installation of the air conditioner and its individual parts;
  • wall material and method of fastening. they must correspond to the project if the fastening of external blocks occurs on the wall;
  • compliance of the location of the external unit on the cardinal points;
  • weight of external and external blocks.

If there is a divergence of real indicators with planned ones, then the customer and your management should be informed. Continue to install installation in this case should not. If the customer or management insists on continuing the work, then it is necessary to obtain a written confirmation from them to continue such work, but it is noted that there are discrepancies of design and valid indicators, while the identified discrepancies must be indicated in writing.

Important installation features in the 2nd stage for the user

Nuances of laying tracks for installation brigades

    It is better to have an external unit so that it is available for service in the future without involving special equipment (or climbers). The external unit should not “intercede” on the wall of the neighbor from the outside.

  • You need to find out the owner of the exact indentation of the inner block from the ceiling (baguette), curtains, cornices.
  • Be sure to fix all the agreements on retreats on paper. Especially if everything is not negotiated directly with the owner. In extreme cases, after laying the “track” on the wall, draw a block, “hug” the ceiling, and photograph! If there are wires in the places of attachment of the internal block, then consider their location, or better agree on their transfer.
  • In most cases, the “highway” is brought to the left side of the block, but there are exceptions (for example, for the new product of 2016 from the LG series ArtCool, the route should be made on the right). I would not mention this if I had not met such errors.
  • I advise you to lay an additional wire in case of “power” to the external unit or an additional sensor wire.
  • If the air conditioner is purchased after laying the “route”, then coordinate its characteristics (first of all, these are the size of the internal unit, the diameter of the tubes, consumption power) with the future user.

Summing up, I want to say that if the air conditioner does not provide at once, then upon completion of the repair, the choice of installation location will be limited. In this article, I spoke about the main points of installing the air conditioner in 2 stages. Maybe I didn’t take into account something, so complement your Комментарии и мнения владельцев!



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