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How to fix the steam button on a polaris iron

How to disassemble the iron Polaris 2400

If your iron has stopped heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work a screwdriver and multimeter, you can do it. On how to repair the iron with his own hands and we will tell in this article.

Since there are a lot of different companies making irons, they differ a bit. in shape, heating speed, quality of parts, etc.д. But the general device is the same. Available:

  • Plate with built-in heating element. If there is a steamer function, the soleplate has some number of holes for steam to escape.
  • The thermostat with a knob, which allows you to set the desired temperature of the soleplate heating.
  • A reservoir/tank for the water that is used when steaming.
  • There is a nozzle for splashing water, forced steam output. There is also a steam intensity regulator. It is used to set the frequency of automatic steaming.
  • The iron is connected to the network by the electric cord, which is attached to the contact block, located in the back under the plastic cover.

Once you are generally familiar with what is where, you can begin the repair of the iron with your own hands.

What will be needed for work

For this you need a set of screwdrivers (Phillips screwdriver and flat head screwdriver). You’ll need a wide knife or an unwanted plastic card to pry up the parts of the iron with the latches. To check the integrity of parts you need a multimeter (see here how to use it). You might need a soldering iron too. if you have to change some parts.

Tools you may need when repairing your iron

Of tools everything, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubing, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

How to Disassemble an Iron

If the iron does not work, the first thing to do is to disassemble it. It’s not as easy as you might think. there are too many models, each of which can have their own “features”. And different models of the same manufacturer can be disassembled differently. Nevertheless there are general principles and rules:

    Take off back cover of the handle. This allows you to get to the terminal block. If there is some sort of problem (a problem with the cord or a broken heating element) this is enough and you don’t need to take the iron apart any further.

The process of taking the iron apart does not require the use of force. If the iron “does not go”, you must look carefully at what and where it is holding. And you shouldn’t disassemble it all at once, it is not always necessary.

We check the simplest things

Often the iron doesn’t work because of cord problems. It often gets bent during use, the insulation gets damaged at these bends, and sparks can even appear. That is why the first step in the self-repair of your iron is the inspection and testing of the cord. You will need a multimeter for the continuity test (read here how to use it).

Checking the power cord

Sometimes you can plug in the iron to make sure that the cord is the problem. If everything is OK, the indicator light turns on. This is usually the green LED. By the fact that it is lit constantly or periodically goes out and will keep track of the status of the cord. We twist and bend it, paying attention to the condition of the signal lamp. If it flashes, then the power cord is really to blame. it is better to replace it, but if you want you can find the problem area (it is often easily identified visually) and fix the situation.

Industrial steam Iron

Typical problems with the iron cord

If there is a problem with the insulation and the conductor is intact, use electrical tape to repair the fault. If the wires are damaged, they are cut, connected in a new way by soldering, the place of connection is insulated. This repair is a temporary measure, because soon there will be problems again. not far from the “restored” place. That’s why it’s better to replace the cord after all.

DIY Philips steam iron water pump GC8625. Blinking problem

Terminals and Contacts

If there is no external damage to the cord, but it does not work, you will have to disassemble the iron. At the first stage there is usually no difficulty. there is one bolt on the back. This is probably the only fastener that cannot be hidden. Unscrew it, remove the cover.

The back cover is usually easy to remove. one screw

Under the back cover there is a terminal block, the wires from the thermostat and the heating element are led to, and our power cord is plugged in on the other side. The terminal block may look different. In some manufacturers like Bosch) it is hidden under a plastic cover. The cover needs to be removed. How to get to it varies depending on the model. Sometimes it is enough just lift and pull sometimes you have to remove some parts. The important thing is to get to the pins.

Overheating can melt the terminal block or cord

Often the reason that the iron is not heating is not hidden in the heating element, but in the fact that the contacts are clogged or oxidized. Sometimes water gets on contacts (the tank leaks), sometimes dust gets sintered there, sometimes the contact is just loose. If you have one of these problems, fix it. Perhaps the repair of the iron with your own hands will end there.

If you are going to remove the wires from the contacts, take a picture of how it was. There are fewer problems when assembling. The human memory is an unreliable thing. The photo is much more reliable.

Check cord for continuity of wires

If the contacts are normal and clean, test the cord for continuity. We take a tester / multimeter, put it on the test mode. We touch the pins of the cord with one feeler gauge and “search” the wires on the terminal block with the other. If the cord is intact, one of the pairs should “ring”. you should hear a beep.

The cord of the iron is three-wire, two wires go to the pins of the cord, and the third is green or yellow-green. ground. On the plug of the iron it is a metal plate. When you touch it and the green wire on the pad you should hear the “beep” of the multimeter. If at least one wire doesn’t ring, change the cord.

General device

Since there are many different firms that make irons, they are slightly different. in shape, speed of heating, quality of parts, etc.д. But the general arrangement is the same. It is available:

  • The soleplate with built-in heating element. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the soleplate for steam to escape.
  • Thermostat with a knob, which allows you to set the desired temperature of heating the soleplate.
  • Tank/reservoir for water that is used for steaming.
  • There is a nozzle for splashing water, forced steam output. There is also a steam intensity regulator. It is used to set the frequency of automatic vaporized water.
  • The iron is connected to the mains using the electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block at the back under the plastic cover.

Once you are basically familiar with what is where, you can begin with the repair of the iron with your own hands.

What will be needed for work

To work you will need a set of screwdrivers. Phillips and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card to pry up the parts of the iron with the hooks. You’ll need a multimeter to check the integrity of the parts (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you need to change some parts.

Tools you may need to repair your iron

The tools are all, but in the process sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubing, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

Stains from ironing

Dirty iron soleplate

  • If that doesn’t work, unplug the iron and let it cool. Moisten a paper towel with 1 part vinegar and 2 parts water and wipe the soleplate with it. A patented soleplate cleaner for the iron can also be used.

Melted cloth

If you iron synthetics at high temperature the melted lint can stick to the soleplate.

steam, button, polaris, iron

Remove the largest deposits of cladding by carefully wiping the soleplate with a thick layer of paper towels at high temperature.

Allow the iron to cool to a medium temperature, then rub a little iron cleaner on the soleplate. Immediately clean the soleplate with a thick layer of clean paper towels.

Chalk stains on fabric

If you have been limescale ironing for a while, the iron may kick up limescale particles when you steam or spray it. How you descale the iron depends on whether it has a self-cleaning function.

Some irons are designed to clean themselves after each ironing. To do this, you need to put the iron on its heel and set it to maximum temperature. When the light turns off, unplug the iron and, holding it upside down over the sink, quickly press the steam button about 10 times in quick succession.

  • Put the steam regulator on self-cleaning. In this position you can lift the steam regulator up and the steam and water will rinse the holes in the soleplate. Holding the soleplate at least 150 mm from the bottom of the sink, gently rock the iron back and forth.
  • When the reservoir is empty, remove the steam regulator from the iron. Dip the test needle in vinegar to remove lime residues.
  • Carefully, so as not to damage the needle, put the regulator back in place. Get the iron hot to the max and iron an old towel with it to clean the soleplate and evaporate any residual water from the steam chamber.
  • Slightly rock the iron from side to side and let a little solution out through the sprinkler.
  • Place the iron soleplate down on a pair of wooden spoons placed on the bottom of the sink. Leave it for about 30 minutes to allow the descaler to seep through the holes in the sole plate, then drain the tank and rinse it two or three times with clean water.

Doing it yourself to repair your tefal steam iron

In detail: repair of the tefal steam generator with your own hands from the real master for the website olenord.com.

Appliances malfunction when you least expect it. To effectively repair steam generators, you need to identify the cause of the malfunction.

Different manufacturers produce appliances with similar design features. For example, Tefal, Philips or Bosch steam generators have three key elements: the electronic controller, the iron itself and the stand, also known as the station.

The equipment is supplemented by various attachments. The boiler is responsible for heating the water. Steam is generated inside it and flows through a hose into the iron. Holes in the base let steam in, smoothing out creases in the garment.

The quality of ironing does not depend on the size or material of the garment. You can work with delicates, linens or jeans at the same time. Tefal steam stations have a different design than steam irons because of these issues:

Over time the steam generator may not produce steam, and this is not the only problem. An inspection will tell you about them. You can diagnose the problem by the following signs:

  • Does not regulate pressure;
  • The steam temperature is incorrect;
  • Difficulties with heating water;
  • Water level indicator does not turn off;
  • No power to the appliance;
  • Water leakage and more.

The listed manifestations should be reacted to immediately, they are immediately apparent. This information can help to repair the steam generator with your own hands. Use special equipment to check your machine. With simple defects you can do with a multimeter or a soldering iron.

If the faults are not complicated, they can be solved without going to the service center. Need experience and skills to repair electrical appliances. The list of the most common problems and repair methods will help you.

  • No steam supply:
  • Inspect water heating system, solenoid valve and fuse.
  • Remove debris from the steam pipe.
  • Descale water tank;. steam not at proper temperature.
  • Install a new thermostat or hose that serves to bring steam to the iron.
  • Look at steam button to see if it needs replacing.
  • Pressure switch not working properly. Tumbler or micro switch defective. Diagnosed by multimeter and solved by replacing the part.
  • Doesn’t respond to the button on the control panel. damaged wiring. Make sure it is still intact. If normal, replace button.
  • If light flashes when water level is low, volume gauge is malfunctioning. Replace the part and bring the water level back to normal.
  • Low steam pressure from the holes on the bottom of the iron. Replace the regulator if it is defective.

Before repairing, disassemble the machine. Not all users understand this operation. Step-by-step instructions are provided to assist in this process.

Before you repair your Philips steam generator, make sure you have everything you need. You will need a “star” screwdriver, a Phillips head screwdriver, and a flathead screwdriver. Like the gc9220, for example. We suggest the sequence of operations:

  • Unplug the appliance from the power supply. Unplug the power cord to avoid electric shock.
  • Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the protective rubbers. On the top of the steam station. Undo screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
  • Unscrew the bolts holding up the main body of the unit with a flathead screwdriver. They are located at the bottom.
  • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the bolts from the top cover. You can begin to repair.

Tefal appliances are disassembled in the same way. Devices are similar in design. You will need the same set of tools and procedures.

Self-repair is considered by the owners of faulty steam appliances in the first place. Approach this decision wisely and act according to a clear instruction. If you have no experience with electrical appliances, it is better to entrust the matter to a professional.

Household appliances tend to fail at the most inopportune moment, and it always happens unexpectedly for the user. You are just about to iron the laundry when the steam station does not turn on and an urgent repair of the steam generator is required. Let’s try to find the source of the problem.

Steam generator from any manufacturer: Tefal, Bosch or Philips, consists of three main parts: the electronic control unit, the stand, it is the same station, and the iron. Special nozzles are also included in the delivery set. The boiler heats the water, steam is produced which is sent to the iron through a special hose, at the base of which there is a peoria. As the steam exits the holes, it treats the material, smoothing out any creases.

The density and size of the garment have no effect on the quality of the treatment: Bedding, delicate fabrics such as silk, but also jeans, woolen or synthetic suits can be treated at the same time.

A household steam generator station, such as Tefal, has a number of differences from a steam iron from the same manufacturer:

  • First, the size. it is much bulkier and takes up a lot of space;
  • Secondly, the water is poured into a separate container of the boiler and there it is heated until steam is formed;
  • thirdly, the steam is not wet, but dry with a temperature of about 160 degrees;
  • The treatment of clothing and laundry is performed without touching it with the device in the form of an iron, but only by steam, so you can not fear for the integrity of things.

The illustration below shows a standard Tefal steam generator station.

In the process of operation, household appliances sometimes have various malfunctions, which can be diagnosed by characteristic signs and perform repair of steam generators with their own hands. If steam generators refuse to perform their assigned duties, the reason may be different.

How to disassemble an iron, no Комментарии и мнения владельцев, in pictures

By the way, the cause of the breakdown of this iron was this emergency fuse. The cord, the iron’s soleplate, and the thermostat were in good working order and not in need of repair. Only the fuse needed to be replaced, but since we couldn’t buy the exact same one, we put its analog.

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All rights reserved © / 2011 / Sewing-Master.How to repair sewing machine at home by yourself / MY-Project

You have a sewing machine and you love to sew? Then this site is for you. Professional craftsmen tell you how to perform minor repairs sewing and knitting machine. Experienced technology experts will share their sewing secrets. Review articles will tell you what to buy a sewing or knitting machine, a dummy iron and many other useful tips you will find on our site. Thank you for viewing this page in its entirety. Copying and reprinting articles from the site “Sewing Master” without the consent of the author is prohibited. Copyrights are protected by law.

If the iron has stopped heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work a screwdriver and multimeter, cope. How to repair the iron with their own hands and will tell in this article.

General device

Since there are a lot of different companies making irons, they differ a little. in shape, heating rate, quality of parts, etc.д. But the overall device is the same. Available:

  • The soleplate with built-in heating element. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the soleplate for steam to escape.
  • Thermostat with a knob that allows you to set the desired temperature of the soleplate heating.
  • The reservoir/tank for the water used in steaming.
  • There is a nozzle for splashing water, forced steam output. There is also a regulator for the steam intensity. It is used to set the frequency of automatic dispensing of evaporated water.
  • The iron is connected to the mains using the electric cord which is attached to the terminal block at the back under the plastic cover.

Once you are generally familiar with what is where, you can begin to repair the iron with your own hands.

Thermostat

The soleplate temperature regulator is one of the most critical components of your iron, and one of the most susceptible to breakdowns; it is a mechanical trigger device driven by a bimetallic plate. There are no “magnets, like in the refrigerator regulator” in the thermostat of the iron. Like a refrigerator thermostat, there is also a mechanical trigger, only of a different design. Its operating principle is simple:

  • The part with the moving contact is compressed against the part with the fixed contact by a toggle spring. The contacts are closed, the heating element is heated. The degree of spring compression is adjusted with the temperature knob.
  • On the other side, the movable contact is connected by a dielectric pusher rod to the bimetallic plate.
  • The bimetallic plate, bending from the heat, presses through the rod onto the moving contact until it overcomes the spring.
  • The spring flips over and opens the contacts.
  • The heating element is switched off; the iron soleplate with the bimetal plate cools down.
  • The bimetallic plate is straightened. When its pressure has sufficiently reduced, the spring is ejected back into the regulator and resets it to its original position.

The heating element heats up again, the cycle repeats.In old irons and some new ones the thermostat is assembled according to the diagram with a loose rocker arm (pos. 1 fig.):

Diagrams of the thermostat of the irons

The disadvantages are 2 pairs of contacts, which are prone to burning, and a high hysteresis, t.е. temperature difference between actuation and return of the regulator. Therefore regulators with a loose bead always have a adjusting screw under the knob, which can be turned if the iron heats too much (turn it 1 or 2 turns) or too little (turn it back the same amount). To access the calibration screw remove the knob for adjusting the temperature. It sits on the axis on friction, but is held in the body by pawls with stops, see Fig. fig. right. To remove the handle you need to turn it to the minimum (by the first point) and pull up.

Most modern irons are fitted with a double spring-loaded unitized thermostat, pos. 2: It operates very accurately and almost never needs to be adjusted during operation. Its weaknesses are, first of all, as in the pre. case, pins, see pins, see pins, see pins, see pins, see pins, see pins. below. Second. a ceramic rod (marked blue), which sometimes cracks. The stem length is 8 mm and a new one can be made from an MLT-0.5W resistor, pos. 2а. The resistor leads are bitten down to 1.5-2 mm length, the paint is washed off with dichloroethane or surfactant-washing agent, and the conductive layer is removed with an emery cloth. If the resistance of the resistor is over 620-680 kOhm, some people put it instead of the rod as it is, the paint burns without smoke and stink. However, then the soleplate of the iron can unpleasantly “pinch” with electricity. And to make matters worse, the resistance of a resistor with an unprotected conductive layer can drop several times, and the leakage current through it can increase to dangerous levels.

Note 3: sometimes the insertion washers in the thermostats are cracked. A new one can be made from fluoroplastic; see drawing for details. at pos. 2б.

How to Clean the Contacts

Do not clean burnt contacts of the iron temperature regulator with sandpaper, as many sources advise, because they work under high current and quickly burn again after cleaning with sandpaper. Contacts of modern regulators have thin-wall pressed contacts and in this case they burn out to a hole. To clean the contacts you need to wrap a nail file around the contacts with a suede stick soaked in alcohol, put it between the contacts and rub it until the suede stick does not get much soiled with carbon. The alternative is to cut a thin wedge from an ink eraser and clean the pins with it. Then with the same wedge of pencil eraser. The last thing is to wrap a nail file with a rag soaked in alcohol instead of chamois leather and use it to get the eraser particles stuck on the contacts.

Note: because of the thermostat the following situation is also possible. the iron heats at the maximum regardless of the position of the temperature knob; adjusting the calibration screw does not help. It means that regulator contacts are welded and need to be replaced.

How to get there?

This is all good, but we don’t have the iron disassembled yet. In general, the iron can be disassembled as follows. Lifting the thermostat cover:

  • Remove the temperature setting knob.
  • The back cover is removed (possibly together with the top cover).
  • Remove the contact block.
  • Remove the upper cover.
  • The case is removed.
  • Remove the casing of the thermostat (if there is any).

After that, all the iron’s nodes become available for inspection and repair. Of course, each step has its own subtleties and peculiarities. we will consider some of them further on using the examples of some manufacturers models, but for now we will focus on the general “screws”.

Back cover

This is the only part that is fastened with the screw(s) visible from the outside. There may be 2 of the latter at the bottom. In this case, there are 2 possibilities: The back cover together with the top cover and separately. In the first case, the handle of the iron will be straight, and both covers are immediately pulled back by pushing the upper cover with your fingers: it sits with horizontal spikes in the longitudinal grooves.

If the covers are separate and the back cover has one or 2 screws, then again there are 2 possible cases: the back cover is flush with the body and overlapped. In the first case, pull the lid on the bottom towards yourself. at the top it is fixed by the studs in the grooves, which will unscrew and the lid will come out. The second case concerns almost exclusively the covers on one screw in the middle. If the lid does not come out and pull on the bottom after unscrewing the screw, then the studs in the grooves are double, at the top and bottom. Then you need to push the cover up to release the lower studs, and then pull the bottom to unscrew the upper ones from their grooves.

The terminal

After removing the back cover you can see the contact block, this is the trouble spot. In some irons (not necessarily the cheap ones) the contact block is usual screwed (pos. 1 in Fig.), it can melt and must be replaced with a propylene one. Polyethylene and PVC in the iron will not hold!

Pads with captive terminals (pos. 2) are the most reliable, but to further disassemble the iron the terminals must be removed. To do this, their protrusions-fixators are pressed through the holes in the contacts with an awl or a thin screwdriver.

To remove the one-piece handcuff block (pos. 3), you need to unscrew the 2 screws of the power cord clamp and the 2 screws holding the socket itself. If the mains leads do not ring on the pins of the socket, then they must be grounded. the sockets of the socket (green arrows on the pos. 4), the socket must be replaced or the conductors can be covered with sleeved terminals, i.e.к. It is not possible to rewire the cables into the terminal block.

The top cover

The curved top cover is held on tight latches without locking. At home it can be removed with a pair of squeeze blocks (see Operating Instructions). above), usually starting at the back end. Not working. try the front one.

steam, button, polaris, iron

Position protection

Under the top cover on most irons is the position protection module. The vulnerable part in it is the position transmitter. This is usually a plastic box (red arrows in fig.) are only necessary with a pair of pins. The position transmitter is either sealed with a tightly fitted cover or encapsulated on top and can be unscrewed.

Failure of the position sensor is typical: the iron does not turn on, but if you shake it, it may turn on for a while and then turn off again at will. When you disassemble the sensor, you find that inside there are a pair of contacts and a metal roller, covered with something viscous and dirty. The sensor was originally filled with clean and clear silicone grease, but the current of the high-power relay winding is enough to make the contacts spark. Filling becomes contaminated with soot, the roller does not close the contacts well and does not stroke as it should.

Unsuitable silicone is removed with table vinegar, but the roller must not be left dry: when ironing the relay will “pop” all the time, the iron will heat up unpredictably, and the sensor will fail completely soon. Instead of silicone you need to fill the sensor with any liquid machine oil, it’s more resistant to dirt and dampens sparks better than silicone. The sensor is washed with alcohol, the needle from a medical syringe is put on the oiler’s spout and the sensor is filled carefully so that the oil does not drip on the walls. Once filled, the cover is glued back on with Titan or similar. with superglue, but if the walls are greasy, the glue will not hold.

Note: In Brown irons and some. others, the signal from the position sensor is processed by a microcircuit (top item. in Fig.) In this case it is allowed to leave the roller of the position sensor dry.

Another possible failure is a burned-out contact or a burned-out relay winding, then the iron won’t turn on at all. To check the module, take it out of the iron and apply to the relay winding its DC or AC operating voltage, as indicated on the relay body (green arrows). A “click” should be heard and the tester should indicate contact closure. No, the relay must be replaced.

Note: if you are not sure that the voltage of the coil is indicated on the relay, measure its resistance. If the winding current at the specified voltage turns out to be more than 80-100 mA, it can not be fed into the winding. The relay should be tested against an unregulated power source. Normally the coil operating voltage should not exceed 24 Volts.

You can do without positional protection. To deactivate it partially (for the heating element indicator to work) you need to unsolder the white wire and connect it to the brown, or unsolder the red wire and connect it to the blue. The relay may click and rattle, so it’s best to unsolder this as well.

Case

After removing the back cover and the contact block will appear holding the body studs in the grooves (the bottom pos. in Fig. The other irons have screws in the spout on the right) or screws, but take your time: the case has another screw or two in the area of the iron’s spout. How the Chinese are hiding them has already been said, and in other irons they are on the spout under the lid of the filler neck. It remains in place after removing the top cover. To remove the lid of the neck it is necessary to lift the filler flap and remove the lid with its squeezers, then the nose screws will be visible (the upper pos.)

Repair Tefal iron with a steam generator with their own hands easy pressing

In detail: repair Tefal iron with steam generator with their own hands easy crisis from a real master for the site olenord.com.

Household appliances tend to fail at the most inopportune moment, and it always happens unexpectedly for the user. You’re just about to iron the laundry when the steam station doesn’t turn on and an urgent steam generator repair is required. Let’s try to find the source of the problem.

The steam generator from any manufacturer, Tefal, Bosch or Philips, consists of three main parts: the electronic control unit, the base, aka the station, and the iron. The delivery set also includes special attachments. The boiler heats the water, steam is formed, which is fed through a special hose to the iron, in the base of which there is a peoria. Steam coming out of the holes treats the material, smoothing out any creases.

The density and size of the garments do not affect the properties of the steam system: Bedlinen, sensitive fabrics such as silk, jeans, wool blend suits or synthetics can be treated simultaneously.

Household steam generator station, such as Tefal, has a number of differences from the steam iron of the same manufacturer:

  • first, the size. it is much bulkier and takes up a lot of space;
  • Secondly, the water is poured into a separate boiler tank and heated there to form steam;
  • Thirdly, the steam is not wet, but dry with a temperature of about 160 degrees;
  • Processing of clothing and linen is made without touching it with a device in the form of an iron, but only by steam, so you can not fear for the integrity of things.

The figure below shows a standard Tefal steam generator station.

In the process of operation, household appliances sometimes have various malfunctions, which can be diagnosed by characteristic signs and perform repair of steam generators with their own hands. If steam generators refuse to perform their assigned duties, the reason may be different.

  • Station does not blow out steam. FET or its contacts are burned out. Also there can be incorrect operation of the water heater switch, or just a broken steam button on the device.
  • No pressure control. broken switch.
  • Unit is supplying the wrong temperature steam. temperature fuse blown, thermostat is out of order.
  • No voltage. one of the wires in the power cord is broken.
  • Water is not heating properly. many deposits have accumulated on the walls of the tank.
  • Water level indicator lights up all the time. Sensor is broken.

In addition to these failures, we can name many other causes that provoke the appearance of faults in the steam generator.

To make a complete diagnosis of the product and fix various failures with your own hands, you need to have special equipment, one multimeter and soldering iron to find and fix only simple faults.

You can repair simple defects on your own, even if you have a Tefal steam generator, because we have already written that all models have the same design, except for a few details. Find below a brief list of the most common faults and how to fix them.

  • Steam stopped coming out. check heating element, fuse, solenoid valve, clean steam pipe. Descale the boiler tank, replace the thermostat or the steam inlet hose to the iron.
  • Pressure switch malfunction. check with multimeter. If it is defective, replace the tumbler or micro switch.
  • No reaction to pressure switch on control panel. check continuity of wiring, if normal, replace it.
  • Constant light on low water level in reservoir. check level, if normal, replace reservoir dipstick.

Of course, it is impossible to foresee all the cases that can occur during operation. the list can go on and on, but here are only those malfunctions that the user can fix himself.

It should be taken into account that the home master has skills in working with electrical household appliances. otherwise you should not even try to disassemble or try to repair steam generators, for example, such well-known manufacturers of very reliable and high-quality equipment, such as Tefal or Philips.

Some breakages of household appliances with minimal skills and tools are easy enough to eliminate, you do not need to go to the service center. The Tefal iron repair with their own hands is quite realistic, the main thing is to disassemble the device correctly and determine the cause of the problem.

Ironing equipment from the French manufacturer is subdivided into steam devices and with a steam generator. The first have a classic design of an electric iron, in addition inside there is a water tank up to 300 ml. Liquid in a special pot is heated and released through holes in the soleplate onto the cloth in the form of steam.

Iron pir 2479k cordless repair with their own hands

Detail: iron pir 2479k cordless repair with their own hands from a real master for the site olenord.com.

If the iron has stopped heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to use a screwdriver and multimeter, you’re good to go. On how to repair the iron with their own hands and will tell in this article.

Since there are a lot of different companies making irons, they differ a little. in shape, heating speed, quality of parts, etc.д. But the basic construction is the same. Available:

  • Plate with built-in heating element. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the soleplate for steam to escape.
  • Thermostat with a knob, which allows you to set the desired temperature of the soleplate.
  • Tank/reservoir for water, which is used for steaming.
  • There is a nozzle for splashing water, forced steam output. There is also a regulator of vapor intensity. Use it to set the frequency of automatic feeding of evaporated water.
  • The iron is connected to the mains using the electrical cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.

Once you are basically familiar with what is where, you can begin with the repair of the iron with your own hands.

For work, you will need a set of screwdrivers. Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers. You’ll need a wide knife or an unwanted plastic card to pry up the parts of the iron with the latches. To check the integrity of parts you will need a multimeter (read here how to use it). You may also need a soldering iron if you need to replace any parts.

Tools you may need to repair your iron

Of all the tools, but in the process of working sometimes need electrical tape or heat shrink tubing, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

The first difficulty for those who want to repair the iron themselves is the disassembly. This is far from easy and obvious. The easiest way to remove the back panel. There are a few screws that are visible and it is easy to unscrew them. Except for screws there can be clips. So after unscrewing all the visible screws we undermine the cover with a screwdriver tip or an old plastic card and separate the cover from the case.

steam, button, polaris, iron

Under it you will find the terminal block to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you don’t have to disassemble the iron anymore. But if the cord is fine, you will have to take it apart, and this might be a problem.

Some irons, Philips and Tefal have screws under the lid. We also unscrew them. In general, if we see a fastener, we remove it.

Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when you disassemble the iron

As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. That’s why it’s difficult. But there are a few things you will find with almost any manufacturer.

You need to take off temperature regulator dial and steam button, to do this you have to grip them in your fingers and pull up. The buttons can have latches in them, so you might need something thin to squeeze them a little with a screwdriver.

To disassemble the iron you have to remove the buttons

Some irons, like Rowenta, as in the picture, have screws on the handle (some Scarlet irons do). If there are, unscrew them. There’s also a screw hidden under the removed buttons, and we unscrew that, too. Then remove the top plastic parts. These are usually attached with snap locks. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) in the lock.

Under the covers there are usually a number of screws. After unscrewing them, continue disassembling until the body and the soleplate are separated. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to give more precise recommendations, because there are too many different designs. Our best advice is to proceed slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

Failure of the electric cord is a fairly common type of failure. If this damage occurs, the iron may not turn on at all or work intermittently, the soleplate may be poorly heated. The cord can bend, curl, the insulation is damaged in places of bending, some wires can be frayed at all or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case all the places with damaged insulation should be insulated.

With any damage, any iron repair begins with checking the cord. You need to test the iron to see if it’s OK or not. To do this, it is enough to remove the back cover. The terminal block, where the cord is connected, will become accessible. We need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the “probe” mode, one probe pressed to one pin of the plug, the other touch one of the wires on the strip. When you touch the “right” wire the multimeter should make a beeping sound. This means that the wire is intact.

Checking the integrity of the power cord

The color of insulation of conductors can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it is necessary to check it by putting the probe on the small metal plate in the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Now one of these two wires should ring with the pin, to which you have pressed the probe multimeter. Repeat the same operation with the other prong.

To be absolutely sure that the cord is intact, you need to crumple/twist it while testing. Especially where there are problems with the insulation. If the “beep” is interrupted by this action, it is best to replace the cord. It must also be replaced if one or both pins “do not ring”. You might be lucky and you will not need any further repair of the iron.

If the iron does not get hot at all, the heating element may have burned out. If this is the case, it is worth buying a new iron, as the replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all we must make sure that it is the heating element that is guilty.

These are the outputs of the iron’s heating element

To check the THEN, we get to the very bottom of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outputs of the heating element. Set multimeter to the position of resistance measurement (up to 1000 Ohm), conduct the measurement. If the figures on the display are about 25 ohm, it means that the heating element is normal, if bigger, it has burned out. As we have already said, if the heating element burns out, you should not repair the iron, it is better to buy a new one.

Author

Kerariel

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