How to disassemble the base of the electric kettle Scarlett

Kettle Scarlett SC-EK21S24 not turn on: causes and repair

Scarlett. It’s a brand that’s famous for its mass-produced prevalence. Electric kettles from this company have a proud label “5000 turns on”, but in practice they work a little less, if you do not treat them in time. It is like a car VAZ or UAZ. you need periodically with a screwdriver to climb to repair. If your kettle is broken, do not rush to throw it away (which 80% of customers do). Usually the heating elements of these devices are quite robust and burn out very rarely. The main reason for the breakdown is that the contacts oxidize and burn. After all, only the cylindrical base is made of stainless steel and the rest is poorly protected copper. First of all, it is the contacts of the switch itself that get oxidized. There is a thermal plate that turns off the kettle from the steam, but part of the condensate gets on the contact group, causing it to oxidize and stop working. All you need to do is to clean the contacts with a thin blade or zero-grit sandpaper. The principle of repair in all Scarlett kettles is the same. In Scarlett SC-EK21S24 you need to remove carefully the lid, it is mounted on two plastic axes (you can move the sides with a knife or screwdriver). Next, you need to unscrew the two screws on the handle, remove it, remove the switch. Remove the spring clip from the switch and clean the contacts. Naturally, carefully, so as not to break the flimsy Chinese plastic and metal parts. When reassembling you must correctly place the plastic square of the steam trap so that it does not block access to the switch.

The second reason that the Scarlett kettle stopped turning on is due to the protection against running without water. There are the same flimsy contacts that burn out and block the heating element.

These contacts are in the bottom of the kettle. It is necessary to unscrew the three screws of the plastic bottom, then remove the cylindrical contact group. To remove it, bend back the three plates in the slots with a thin screwdriver.

The cherished safety system is on the other side of it. The mechanism is the same. careful cleaning with a sandpaper or a thin sharp knife. Many craftsmen solder these contacts, but then if you turn on carelessly without water from the metal kettle remains only a hulk, and all of its plastic parts will flow to the floor. You can’t be far from a fire, either.

Nevertheless, if you watch the power on, sealing will extend the life of your Scarlett kettle for dozens of years!

By the way, the contacts can only be slightly tinned with a soldering iron. will last a long time. There are also special products for them, both for cleaning and against oxidation-burn.

Still not turning on? Then it is worth trying to clean the stand itself and check if the copper contact is stuck. If it sags, it needs to be slightly adjusted with a thin screwdriver.

In 99% of cases Scarlett teapots get a second, third, fifth life. In general, the technique serves for quite a long time, until the contacts are finally burned off.

Directly the model Scarlett SC-EK21S24 sustained already 3 cleaning, on the average boils about 5-6 times a day every day for 3 years. So, the stated resource of 5000 powers this kettle has already paid off, and most likely it will work for many more years.

Electric kettle repair

The electric kettle is not such a complex electrical appliance that you should not be able to deal with it yourself. And even the simplest repair in the workshop at a cost will be comparable to the purchase of a new device. So, it makes sense to try to repair the kettle with your own hands.

It is worth saying right away that if the heating element has burned out, it is more rational to buy a new kettle. The disk heating element can not be replaced. If the heating element is open (spiral or twisted in some other way), you can theoretically change it. They can be found on sale or found in repair shops. But in terms of price, the heating element itself can be even more expensive than a new kettle. So, alas. If the heating element in the kettle burned out, don’t waste your time and energy.

Checking of the heating element serviceability

That’s why when repairing the electric kettle first of all we check the heating element. First we disassemble the kettle. For this we turn it upside down. At the bottom of the jug should be screws that hold the plastic protective bottom. They all unscrew, remove the protective cover. You open the resistor terminals. It’s hard to get confused. In addition to the contact heating element here can only be a fuse. By the way, if it is there, it does not hurt to check it too. Check it in the resistance measuring mode. There should be a little resistance. If it is measured breakage or short circuit. we are looking for replacement.

The first thing to do when repairing the kettle is to check the heating element

Therefore when repairing the electric kettle first thing to do is to check the heating element. First we disassemble the kettle. To do that we turn it upside down. At the bottom of the jug there should be screws that hold the plastic protective bottom. They all unscrew, remove the protective cover. Heating element terminals are opening. Except the heating element contacts, there can only be a fuse. By the way, if it is there, it does not hurt to check it too. We check it in the resistance measuring mode. Resistance should be zero. If a breakage is measured, look for a replacement.

How to check the heating element in the kettle? With the same tester, also in resistance measuring mode. If the heater is burnt out, the multimeter will show a breakage (infinitely high resistance). If the heating element is intact, you can continue to search for the fault of the electric kettle. So, the kettle does not turn on for some other reason.

An “intact FET” is if when measuring its resistance the multimeter shows not a short circuit and not an infinitely high resistance, but figures within the range of several tens of ohms to hundreds.

It all depends on the power, the more power, the less resistance. Here are some current draw values from the power:

The kettle does not turn on

If the kettle doesn’t turn on, first of all you need to check if the cord and the plug are ok. Strange as it may seem, but the cord and the plug are one of the most common causes. The cord breaks in places that are often bent, the plug “bounces off” the wires.

Check the cord of the kettle

So, the repair of the electric kettle begins with the simplest things. First thing to look at is the plug and cord. The cord most often breaks near the plug or where it connects to the stand. In this case, the unstable operation of the kettle. Inspecting and “crumpling” the cord. If there is no external damage, you can check its integrity with a multimeter. We put it in “test” mode, short out the plug’s pins with a wire and check for a short on the pins of the stand.

What is the contact in the teapot stand and where are the most likely problems with the cord

To short-circuit is to connect with each other by means of metal. In the case of an electrical plug, it will result in the fork leads being short-circuited.

The easiest way to make a short is to connect the contacts with a metal wire. If the wire is in insulation, you must first stripe a few centimeters at the ends, and then wrap peeled copper (aluminum can be used) on one and the other lead of the plug. It will appear that the wire electrically connect the plug’s pins. This is what “shorting” is.

If there are no problems with the cord outwardly, you can skip this step

Next, we take a multimeter in the “test” mode, with one probe touching the central contact, the other. the circular contact. If the cord and plug are intact, you should hear a characteristic sound.

You can do without connecting the plug with a wire. It is enough to touch one contact on the plug with one probe, and with the other touch the center contact and the circular contact in turn. If the signal appears, that one wire of the cord is serviceable. Check the second contact on the plug in the same way.

No signal indicates a break in the cord and it must be replaced. It is inexpensive.

How to check the connection of the cord to the cradle

You can also check the quality of the contacts at the point of connection of the cord to the plug. If you put one of the prongs to the center pin, it should “ring” with one of the pins through which the cord is connected. The cylindrical plate should then “ring” with the second contact. To be sure, you can hold the probes in the proper position and give the cord a good “stir. There should be no loss of contact.

Checking the contact between the plug and the power cord connection points

Checking the Functionality of the Cradle

You can do another way. Include the cradle in the socket, put the multimeter in voltage measurement mode, selecting a measurement limit of more than 250 volts. Use the styli to touch the pins on the stand. the center one and the circular one. The multimeter should display the mains voltage.

If there is no voltage at the contacts of the stand, or it is much lower than the mains voltage, then the cause of the problem is in the stand. It is worth saying that this type of failure is very rare.

But when you connect it to the network, you need to check very carefully. Do not touch the metal parts of the probe with your fingers, do not touch the stand and contacts. You are working under voltage and that is always dangerous.

Failures and repair

How to disassemble

It is necessary to determine the cause of the malfunction, for which you will need to properly disassemble the electric kettle, without damaging the design.

The first thing to do is to remove the lid from the bottom of the container. You unscrew the self-tapping screws, they are often hidden by the cover plates and can be removed with a sharp object. You may need a screwdriver with dvuhodnoy plug (Spanne), which will complicate the process, but it can be replaced by scissors, tweezers, side cutters or saw through a slot in the ordinary flat tip with a nadpil.

So, starting to repair, it is necessary to get acquainted with the rules, how to dismantle the lid, to repair the electric kettle without damaging the body it will be possible only with careful and unhurried actions.

After removing the screws the bottom cover is removed. Often it has an additional fixation around the perimeter latches, there are models only with them. It is necessary to unscrew carefully, without applying excessive force, using flat objects. a knife, screwdriver. The main thing is to find the latch, which is done by carefully shoving these tools in different places at the junction between the lid and the body. Usually the whole procedure succeeds without damage, because the plastic is quite soft.

After locating and removing one of the latches, the screwdriver is not taken out, it is kept in the gap, then the second one is taken and the same is done with the next clip, it is already visible through the gap. After that, the rest of these elements are no longer fixed and the cover is easily removed.

Water is not heated, the indicator light is lit

Backlight failure is diagnosed easily. the elements are connected directly to the heating element and if the glow is present, and there is no heating, then there are 2 reasons:

Cleaning, renovation of contacts of lead terminals

Having removed the lid from the base of the vessel, we will see the connecting pins. In this case the reason is obvious. scorch, carbonization, seizing. That’s why the kettle does not turn on. The contact segment is almost completely burned out, it is hanging in the air. There’s a similar picture on the second terminal.

The terminal is burnt, unusable. it is repaired or rather replaced, it is enough to clean the contact. The first element for replacement can be bought in electrical stores, removed from used devices or make a similar one from tin, copper. If you found the old terminal, the wires are jammed in it, they are taken out, gently unclamping with an awl, and then insert the wires and press the shank with pliers, pliers, tweezers. 2 wires (they can touch): thick. main power, thin. for the light.

The next step is to clean the heater outlet on both sides with a fine emery. Then it is left to put on a terminal, which can be a little compressed for a tighter fit with round pliers or similar tool. It is desirable to take off / put on a part several times to remove oxide on the inner contact planes.

Next, without fixing the lid, fill the tank to the minimum mark, check the efficiency. If there is no heating, then most likely the helix of heating element is broken (burned out), and it cannot be repaired, there is only one way out. installation of a new heater. But often it is not possible: the element is often welded to the base, that is not replaceable, it is always characteristic for disc heaters, so you have to buy a new kettle.

Failure of the heating element is checked with a multimeter, the procedure is standard. with a continuity test.

Repair of welded, burned-out connections

The breakdown described above. when the indicator light turns on, but there is no heat. is equally characteristic of a contact failure at the connection points of the heating element leads, when they are welded. There are no terminals in this design. Often the wires there are spontaneously disconnected due to lagging, burning off, and the problem is in the spot welding.

The connection can be replaced as shown in the pictures below: the flat ends tightly crimp the strips of contacts on the heater leads. Then, these twisted connections are pressed by metal strips with screws, which can be taken from old Soviet plugs for the sockets or made from scraps of tin.

If there are no such parts, you can apply soldering, wind a few turns of thick copper wire. It is necessary to make sure that there is no contact with the metal body of the electric kettle.

No heating, the light bulb does not shine

If there is no heat and the light bulb does not glow, the first thing to do is to make sure that the socket is working: plug in any device, such as a desk lamp. Next. inspect the plug and cable for external damage.

If there is voltage in the socket, the cable is serviceable, then the failure is in the contact group of the stand. This element (the connector with the rod in the center) is described above in the article. Parts inspected, especially the contact rings, clean, if there is oxidation, contamination. You can turn the kettle on the stand and see if the heating appears. If there are deformations, then the malfunction may be due to poor clamping, you need a solid object to try to give the ring an even shape.

How to repair an electric kettle

Proceed to the repair at home if the warranty service of the device has expired.

How to disassemble the case of an electric kettle with a closed heating element

Regardless of the model, the construction of all appliances is standard. Disassembly of the case is as follows:

• First remove the bottom lid. In old-style appliances, the self-tapping screws are at the top. In modern models, remove the upper part of the lid, which is fixed with two slots in the base of the handle. They are gently loosened to gain access to the bolts that are unscrewed. With some models, the handle is removed along with the cap.
• Then the appliance is turned over and three more screws are unscrewed. Step by step unscrew fixing teeth by lightly pressing a screwdriver.
• After removing the bottom make a test of the heating element with a tester.
• To check the thermostat, unscrew the screw at the bottom of the handle and remove it. Then unscrew the screw that is located under the button. After that, all connections of the thermostat are tested.
• Then the thermostat is disassembled. Before that remove the switch cover. The part should be checked, if it is broken then it is replaced by a new one. If not, continue disassembling. Remove the plate by pushing it forward and polish the contacts.

What to do if the kettle does not turn on

How to repair the kettle if it does not turn on? First identify the cause of the failure. Most often this malfunction is associated with a break in the electrical circuit or with the burning and oxidation of the contacts. The place of breakage is found with the help of a tester.

If there is no signal between the plug and the connector on the base during diagnosis, the cord is replaced with a new one.

A weak or intermittent signal at the base indicates burned contacts. For the kettle to start working, they are scraped with sandpaper. If they are melted, replace the base connector.

If internal switch is broken, wipe contacts clean if oxidized or covered with soot. The cause of the failure may be frayed pull rod, which transmits the force from the switch, located on top, to the contact block, located on the bottom. In this case, the repair should be entrusted to a specialist.

How to fix it if it won’t turn off

If the appliance does not turn off after boiling water, this will eventually lead to the burnout of the heating element.

There are several reasons for the malfunction:

• The cover is not closed or is not tightly closed, which prevents the formation of the required amount of steam;
• The hole through which steam is fed to the bimetallic plate is clogged;
• the button is broken or the contacts of the plate are burned out.

How to repair the kettle in this case? First check whether the lid is tightly closed. Clean the clogged opening. If this is not the problem, disassemble the housing. Check bimetal plate contacts.

If they are stuck to each other, the pin that opens them is melted, then they are restored to working order. Clean the contacts with a fine file or sandpaper. When they are beyond repair, the button is replaced. After that the appliance is reassembled in the reverse order and the problem is checked.

How to fix the lid of the electric kettle

often the lid of the kettle does not fit tightly to the body due to the scale which collects on the rim. In this case the device is cleaned. Using folk remedies with citric acid (1 tbsp. л. per 1 liter of water), 70% vinegar (1.5 tbsp. л. per 1 liter. water) or baking soda (1 tbsp. л. per 1 liter of water). They are added to the water, boiled, then allowed to stand for 30 minutes and drained. If the scale is not completely removed, the procedure is repeated.

Or use household chemicals such as “Cinderella”, “Shine”, “Antikidpin” etc. They are used in accordance with the instructions, while respecting the safety precautions. After cleaning, the kettle is thoroughly rinsed to get rid of chemical residues.

How to fix if it heats slowly

The slow heating of water is often caused by scale buildup on the heating element. It prevents the liquid from heating up. To fix the problem the kettle is cleaned using special agents or folk methods. If you ignore this problem, the heating element will burn out.

Limescale is well removed citric acid. It is poured into the water at a rate of 1 tbsp (0.6 tbsp) of water and then allowed to boil. л. per 1 litre of water. The water is boiled, then allowed to stand for half an hour and drained. The procedure can be repeated 2-3 times. After cleaning the kettle is thoroughly rinsed.

What to do if the heating element burns out

If the heating element burned out, replace it.

• To change the disk heater proceed as follows:
• Remove the kettle bottom. For this purpose unscrew screws, carefully peel off fixing teeth.
• Disconnect the upper lid.
• Press out the heating element together with the silicone gasket by hand.
• Disconnect all assemblies and parts from the disk.
• The terminal block, thermostat and other elements are attached to the new heater.
• Reassemble the electric appliance in the reverse order and check its functionality.

If during the diagnostics of the spiral-shaped heating element the multimeter reads resistance 1 or infinity, it has to be replaced. The replacement is done in the following way:

• The electric kettle is disassembled, the bottom, the lid and the handle cover are removed.
• Loosen the screws fixing the heater. Disconnect the coil from the wires. Take out the heating element from the casing.
• The new element is fitted with a silicone gasket, inserted into the fixing hole and tightened with the screws. Attach wires.
• Then assemble the device in the reverse order and check its performance.

How to operate correctly to prevent breakage

To prevent further damage it is important to use the appliance correctly and maintain it properly.

• Use only filtered water.
• Remove limescale periodically.
• Do not use the device during power surges.
• Do not overheat the kettle by heating water in it many times in a row.

The principle of operation of electric kettles, the device and wiring diagram

The electric kettle is a domestic appliance with a rather simple construction in terms of device and functioning. Today on the market you can meet a variety of models of electric kettles, but it should be noted that they all function and perform their work on the same principle. As a rule, different models of electric kettles, depending on the presence of a variety of additional functions, circuits may not differ significantly from each other.

The kettle consists of several different parts. The design of such devices usually consists of:

• A special body, which plays the role of a reservoir for heated water. It is worth noting that in some models the reservoir for liquid is not the body, but a special flask of removable type.
• Heating element. In electric kettles, such elements can be open or on the contrary. closed. In addition, the heating elements used in kettles can be disk or spiral.
• A special stand, which is equipped with a connector that allows connecting the kettle to the mains.
• A thermostat that switches off the power supply when the water begins to boil (located directly under the on button).
• A special pad, which is a socket for power supply of the device (located on the bottom of the device in the side or central part).

In electric kettle models, which are equipped with a special thermostat, there are more contact groups. Such a feature must be taken into account when carrying out their own repairs. Thermostats allow you to heat water in different modes during the use of the kettle, as well as keep it hot for a long time.

The principle of operation of electric kettles, which are powered by an electric network, is quite simple. When you connect such a device to the electric network and press the power button, the heating element starts to heat up. Thanks to this the water in the kettle’s tank boils or is heated to a temperature set by the user (in models with a thermostatic regulator).

During water heating when it boils in the kettle begins to form a large amount of steam, which by a special channel equipped with a steam outlet begins to move to a special bimetallic thermostat plate. Under the influence of steam, the metal starts to expand gradually against the lever, thus opening the contact groups and turning off the appliance.

The nuances of disassembly based on the model

Before starting repair work it is necessary to conduct a preliminary inspection of the kettle for performance and exclude all kinds of trivial moments that can cause malfunction (connection to the mains, starting the power button, the correct position, the installation of the device directly on the stand itself). If after a preliminary check the device is still defective, then it is necessary to dismantle all the nodes and find the cause of the failure. How to disassemble the electric kettle? It is recommended to disassemble the models of electric kettles, which are equipped with a closed heating element, as follows:

• Perform the removal of the lid, which is located on the bottom of the appliance. In this case, you should take into account the fact that on older models, the fasteners are located at the top of the.
• On newer models, when you disassemble it, you must remove the top plate, which is fixed in two slots located at the base of the handle.
• Slots should be carefully released and then the screws underneath should be unscrewed. In some models the upper handle is removed directly together with the cover.
• Then turn the kettle upside down and remove the fasteners in its lower part.
• Using a screwdriver, unscrew the special fixing elements located along the perimeter of the kettle bottom.

After removing the bottom for breakage, using a tester, you should inspect the kettle heating element. On models equipped with a circular heating element, the heating element does not come into contact with water. Therefore, at this stage, if the heating element is in a defective state, you can determine the failure by testing it with a tester. As a rule, the heating element in the kettle fails because of broken spirals in the tube.

To check the thermostat for malfunction it is necessary to remove the screw located at the bottom of the electric kettle handle. Then the handle should be carefully removed and under the button to remove the self-tapping screw. The connection points to which the thermostat is connected should be tested with a multimeter. After testing, if no fault is found, you must remove the unit. To do this, first remove the cover itself, and then remove the part. To dismantle the overlay, it is necessary to press it lightly with the fingers of your hands and push forward.

To properly disassemble an old model of electric kettle, you need to unscrew the screws located on the bottom of the device and remove its side to gain access to the heating element, as well as the thermostat. In the case when the on button is located at the top of the kettle, it is necessary to dismantle the device completely. To check the open thermostat it is necessary to first remove the cover.

If electric heating element is in working condition, and it is not possible to determine its fault, then it is necessary to examine the stand. To do this, you must unplug it from the mains, turn it upside down and remove all the screws. Then you need to remove the lower part of the stand and inspect its elements.

Repair of the on indicator and backlight

For ease of operation, kettles are equipped with a power indicator. It can be made on the basis of a neon bulb or LED. Or it can be equipped with a backlight. The indicator can be combined with a backlight.

Electric kettle with backlight Polaris PWK 1767CGL

The indication allows you to determine whether the kettle is well placed on the stand, whether it is plugged in. Also performs some diagnostics. After all, if the light is on, but the water does not heat, it signals a bad contact or a faulty heating element.

Electric kettle light on indicator

The indicator can be a neon bulb or LED connected to the terminals of the heating element. The bulb is usually switched through a current limiting resistor of about 200 kOhm. Faults are extremely rare and usually a breakage of conductors. Check the bulb by replacing it and the resistor with a tester.

A rectifier (diode) and a current-limiting resistor are used with the LED. All together form a so-called driver. Have the parts checked with a tester.

LED backlight

LEDs are chosen for backlighting because they have a high luminous intensity. Neon is not good in this case. As in the case of the indication, the driver is powered. The circuit is simple and is given below:

Failures are rare and the weakest link here is the LED.

Repair of leakage

Here each case is different, for example, a crack in the body you will not make up and repair is impractical. The leak will appear again. But at the junction of the metal bottom of the disk with the bulb can be sealed.

it is possible only superficially to seal with silicone places of a leakage and the leakage can appear in a new place.

It is best in this case to disassemble the kettle completely and separate the bulb. Clean everything up well and apply silicone sealant to connect. You can use a special, safe sealant such as RTV118Q or domestic VGO-1. They can withstand temperatures up to 260 ° C, but they are expensive. Even an ordinary inexpensive kettle can handle temperatures up to 180 ° C.

Just in case, after repairing, boil the kettle a couple of times to remove possible harmful substances.

How to repair the electric kettle with your own hands

The most common case of failure is the burnout of the contact pads in switches and loss of contacts in the terminal connections. These failures are due to the high current consumption of the electric kettle, the value of which can be found in the table below. The table is universal and applies to any electrical appliance designed for 220V AC power supply. irons, electric stoves, heaters and others.

1,0 1,5 2,0

From the table you can see that the current consumption of a 2 kW electric kettle is 9 A, which is a very high current. Therefore, when buying a kettle, you should take this fact into account. So for a family of up to four people is enough kettle of 1 liter, which consumes power of 1 kW. A low-power kettle will cut your energy costs and last much longer. In addition, the current of 4.5 A will withstand any electrical outlet and even old electrical wiring.

If the voltage of the electric appliance is different from 220 V, for example, car kettle at 12 V, you can calculate the current consumption using the online calculator.

Warning! Exercise extreme caution when repairing the kettle and any other electrical appliances plugged into the wall socket. It is dangerous to touch live wires and live parts with unprotected parts of the body. Do not forget to unplug the kettle from the socket!

How to Disassemble an Electric Kettle

For exact determination of the cause and troubleshooting it is necessary to remove the lid from the bottom of the electric kettle. There may be some difficulty in removing the lid.

The bottom cover is usually screwed to the base of the electric kettle with Phillips screwdriver slotted screws. Sometimes heads of self-tapping screws are sunk into the lid and covered with decorative plugs, which should be removed with a sharp object to be able to unscrew screws.

Some manufacturers, to complicate the possibility of independent repair of electric kettle, all or one of the screws are installed with a slot under the screwdriver rod of two-toothed fork type, which is called Spanne, as in this photo. The Spanne screwdriver is rarely available to home craftsmen. If you don’t have such a screwdriver, you can use side cutters or tweezers to unscrew the screw.

If you can not unscrew the screw that way, then with your own hands to make a special screwdriver from a screwdriver with a flat tip, making in the middle of his pick under the slot profile with a file.

Sometimes it happens during repair that a plastic self-tapping screw can’t be unscrewed. In this case you can try to turn the screw in its screwing direction. If it bends, it can be easily unscrewed.

If the screw cannot be unscrewed with that method, it should be heated with a blowtorch and the tip attached to the head of the screw. The plastic from the heat around the threads of the screw softens and it is easy to unscrew. The same technique is used to disassemble the base of the electric kettle.

In some models of electric kettles, after unscrewing the screws, the lid can be easily removed. But more often it is additionally fixed all around by latches. There are some models in which the cover is held by pawls only.

The top part of the picture shows the lid with the latch, and the bottom part shows the base of the kettle with a square hole into which the latch goes when the lid is installed. On the right side of the base one of the pawls of the kettle handle is caught in the frame.

To release the pawls you have to carefully poke the flat tip of the screwdriver in different places of the joint between the lid and the body in search of the location of the pawl.

When you were able to remove one of the latches from the hole, leave the screwdriver in this place and use the second screwdriver to find the next latch that is near. When a couple of latches are released, the others are no longer clamped, and the lid can be easily removed. Often removing the lid from the base is more difficult than fixing the problem.

The kettle does not heat water, the indicator light is on

This behavior is the easiest way to determine the malfunction. As can be seen from the electrical diagram the indicator light or backlight are connected directly to the terminals, put on the ТEН leads. Therefore, if the light bulb lights up, but the kettle doesn’t boil water, it means that the reason of the malfunction is in bad contact of the terminals with conclusions of the heating element or breakage of the spiral inside it.

Repairing the contact in the sleeve terminals

After removing the lid from the base of the kettle and examining the connecting pins, the cause of the failure became obvious. One of the contacts of the heating element is burnt out and the terminal is practically hanging in the air.

How to eliminate the leakage of water from the kettle

When repairing electric kettles, I have encountered them leaking in the following places:

• in the junction of the measuring window with the body (repair is inexpedient, because sealing the crack with any glue composition gives a short effect);
• from a crack in the plastic casing (cannot be repaired at home);
• at the junction of the metal disk bottom with the kettle bulb.

Therefore, when buying a new kettle, to replace the failed because of the cracked body, I bought a kettle with a glass flask. I hoped that the kettle would never develop an unrecoverable leak because the glass body, if handled carefully, is practically eternal, and a leak at the junction of the glass with the metal base can be successfully fixed.

After several years of operation of the glass kettle on its contact pad after boiling water, water began to appear, which dripped from the bottom. After each boiling, the puddle of water on the site increased, and drops from the bottom of the kettle dripped more and more. I had to start repairing it.

To determine the location of the water leak, we had to unscrew the two screws on the top of the handle and the three screws holding the bottom of the kettle, to disassemble the electric kettle.

After disconnecting the bottom, to continue the repair, you only need to remove the screw terminals from the contacts of the heating element and the overheating protection system. To avoid problems during reassembly, before removing the terminals, it is necessary to remember or sketch which of the terminals, on which of the contacts was put.

The glass flask was bonded to the bottom with silicone sealant. A close inspection of the joint was found that in the factory as a result of violations of the technology of gluing, in several places in the silicone seam air bubbles were formed. Through one of them over time and began to leak water.

At first I wanted to seal only the places of water leakage with silicone, but I was not sure that the leakage will not appear in a new place. So it was decided to detach the glass bulb from the bottom, and glue them together again.

Using a knife blade, the silicone was cut as deep as possible, both along the inside seam and on the outside. After that the glass flask was separated from the bottom with a little effort.

Then the remnants of the old silicone were completely removed from the mating surfaces with a knife, and then the glued surfaces were degreased with a solvent (acetone or alcohol will do). If you have no solvent on hand, you can wash the surfaces with hot water and baking soda or laundry soap, and be sure to dry before gluing. In addition the surface of the metal bottom was ground to a high gloss with sandpaper.

The bottom of the kettle is made of stainless steel, which was checked with a neodymium magnet. it was not attracted to the bottom. But to my surprise, in the place where there was a leak, there was a hole shown in the picture. How the hole could be formed in the stainless steel is a mystery to me, perhaps it is a factory defect.

The hole was formed at the bottom of the junction between the glass flask and the bottom and would be sealed during gluing. But I decided to use an electric soldering iron to seal the hole with soft solder.

Choosing a sealant for gluing

The surfaces of the electric kettle parts are prepared for gluing and it is time to choose a sealant, which must be harmless to the human body, withstand temperatures up to 180 ° C and be elastic. Silicone sealants fully meet the requirements of the requirements.

The best of them is the food silicone adhesive sealant RTV 118 Q of the American manufacturer, which can withstand temperatures up to 260 ° C. But the price of 82 ml tube of this sealant is comparable with the cost of a new electric kettle.

On the market available silicone sealant manufacturer VGO-1, which is designed to seal the joints of hot and cold water pipes, withstanding temperatures up to 260 ° C. Available in 300 ml tubes, but also expensive and costs as much as half the price of a kettle. For sealing the electric kettle needs no more than 20 ml of silicone, so economically expedient to buy a tube of VGO-1 in case you plan to use it for other works.

When choosing a silicone sealant a reasonable question arose. Do manufacturers of electric kettles, and all of them, regardless of the brand in China, use expensive food-grade silicone? The answer is obvious, using the cheapest sealant for sealing. So I came to the conclusion that the simplest silicone sealant, which has no additives, is quite suitable. After several boiling sessions even if the sealant contains contraindicated compounds, they all get dissolved in water and the silicone becomes safe for the human body.

I have at hand a universal silicone construction sealant Soudal, and I decided to use it. It contains no additives and can withstand temperatures up to 180 ° C, which is enough for heat resistance joints.

Gluing parts of the electric kettle

It remains to make the most responsible step. to fill the bottom groove all around the circumference with silicone sealant and insert the glass flask into it. Before applying the sealant surfaces must be degreased with alcohol or solvent.

Using ceramic kettles

Thick ceramic walls of the kettle are sensitive to temperature jumps, that is why even the models with power over 2 kW heat up slower than plastic or metal kettles of the same power. But this is a plus. the boiling water in them cools down slower, too.

The advantages of ceramic teapots include the absence in water a specific “plastic” taste and smell, which is sometimes found when using some models of conventional kettles made of low-quality plastic. The disadvantages include the weight. they are heavier, as well as the high price. For obvious reasons such teapots should be treated with care and can be broken by an accidental impact.

It also uses a lot of electricity. Deposits can harm not only the kettle, but also the person who drinks the water boiled in it. Filters installed on the spout do not help much in solving the problem.

What to do when the kettle leaks

This problem is not uncommon, it occurs with every third electric kettle. That and it is clear, electric kettles simply can not stand constant operation for a long time, any, yes a detail at them will weaken.

• If the kettle is leaking, it is necessary to find the problem immediately. Study the electric kettle schematic diagram. If you see that it is broken in any part, then you need to immediately contact a specialized service center.
• It happens that the water indicator breaks. Check its condition for cracks and other connections responsible for leaks by examining the plastic indicator, preliminarily removing the lid with which the electric kettle switch is closed;
• Perhaps the problem associated with leakage is related to the weakening of its heating elements. To solve this issue will be sufficient to slightly tighten the screws and nuts, which are the fasteners of the classic heating element. If the leak cannot be solved, it is necessary to immediately contact a specialized service center, whose experts are engaged in solving problems related to leaking electric kettles. In the extreme case, the electric kettle can simply be replaced by buying a more modern model in a household store;
• It happens that the cause of a leaking electric kettle is a damaged gasket. If this has happened, then know that tightening a number of fixing elements will not be able to help eliminate the cause of the leak. The gasket is the cause of the leak quite rarely, but if this happens, it is necessary to replace the gasket with a new one. This is the only way to solve this problem and to fix the leakage of the electric kettle;
• Probably the worst and most unpredictable problem, in every sense of the word, that has caused a leak, is damage to the bottom. Not good news for those who aren’t used to the fact that electrical things have a tendency to break. If this happens, then surrendering the kettle to the service center for repair makes no sense, you will have nothing to do but buy a new electric kettle at a household store. Repair the kettle itself also does not make sense. the bottom is not subject to repair and replacement, and only in rare cases when the technique has a high price, its replacement is carried out in accordance with special schemes, which are available in every second service center.

Electric kettle scarlett sc 222 how to disassemble

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Hello. Bought a steel kettle Scarlett SC-222. The appliance is beautiful. But it’s noisy. The essence of my question: The lid of the kettle does not snap, apparently the spring broke. Please advise how to remove the lid, afraid to break the plastic. Thank you so much. Yury.

How to disassemble the kettle Scarlett

Electric kettle repair is simple. everyone can do it. Inside is a coil, rolled into the bottom, which controls the thermostat, a button. The design is powered by 230 volts, protected against overheating by a thermal fuse. often wire. have to change. Cheap models are deprived of the subtleties of protection.

Repair of electric kettle with their own hands sometimes becomes an interesting occupation, especially if the lid plus the handle is cast, it is not possible to disconnect from the electric kettle. The reason: the screws are under the edge of the door. You think willy-nilly how the Chinese have managed to assemble a miracle of technology.

Electric kettle repair China

Guangdong products are widely known. China is rich in economic and other curiosity zones that give tax, some other favors to manufacturers. The U.S. is unenthusiastic about its conflict with the heirs of communism, to whom Nietzsche predicted fate a couple of centuries ago. Today let’s see how to repair electric kettle China, made according to a typical design for a firm that does not seek to disclose the true origin, with a 95% chance of being from Eastern Europe, MB, Federation. Let’s see what our compatriots are pampered with. the best examples of global home appliances pass through the hands of Guangdong workers.

China’s GDP ranks second honorably. Japan’s third. Not bad, considering the state of the Land of the Rising Sun, which survived World War II. Feudal Japan has become the world’s largest electronics manufacturer.

Case, side panel when repairing an electric kettle

Here are a few photos that allow you to enjoy the views of the simplest construction detail. There will be references to the pictures in the text. Look if you want, browse blindly if you don’t want. Disassembly begins with a cover. Skipping a step, you can not remove the side panel that hides the LED plus the switch. With the side panel on, it is harder to remove the bottom. Dilemma. Do the opposite if you are looking for difficulty, the cover can then not be removed at all!

Cover. Held in place by two lugs with two pins. Plastic monolith, it is more difficult to disassemble, assembly more difficult. The pins show up perfectly in the first photo. On the sides two screws, unscrew immediately, remove the side panel. Everything is neat inside. a plus for the model, you will often find a whole mess of wires. Moving on to the bottom.

There are three screws around the connector where the grounding terminal is provided (the design is hanging in the air). Unscrew, make sure: the bottom is slow to remove. On the perimeter there are six plastic prongs, entering the six holes in the body. So as not to fall apart accidentally, wrapped by operation, on the sides of each prong a guide. It is necessary to snap off the teeth one by one with a screwdriver (see photo below). If you break it, you will break the bottom and remove the. We took a picture of each prong to illustrate. Putting the dismantled parts aside, looking at the switch.

Switch, temperature sensor: the point of view of an electric kettle repairman

Photo shows from bottom position. The shiny circle with a cut is a mechanical sensor. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, the electric kettle shuts off. The water boils, an increased amount of steam begins to be released. A small hole in the housing under the switch, covered by a circular, loose plastic plug (see “The Hole in the Housing” on page 13), comes through. photo). The plate is set over the gate of the steam. Boiling begins, temperature rises sharply. After a moment, you can hear a click. The tongue of the plate, made up of a pair of metals, bends sharply upward. Looks like a bimetallic relay.

Now the switch. Not so easy. The part is devoid of any visible connections, except for the metal bracket shown in the photo on the side. The upper sliding part is fastened to it. When you turn on the kettle, the spout of the switch rests against the tongue of a round plate with a cutout, the clip is compressed. Thanks to the design, the parts retain their initial position indefinitely. Click! The slightest jerk releases the clip which resets the switch.

Let’s take a look at the bottom of the case. Here they are:

While the switch is napping, the LED is glowing blue. Full voltage of 230 volts is applied. The photo shows: The resistor is burnt, the contacts were inserted in the clamping terminals, and one could not withstand the inspection. Had to solder. The divider resistor is connected in parallel with the rolled up heater. Kettle turns on. the glow changes to orange. Dual LEDs (schoolteachers are silent)?), unlike typical use both shades work simultaneously while the water is boiling. Adding the electromagnetic waves of different shades gives an orange. It is difficult to list the shades that form the superposition (the repairman is deeply indifferent).

Remove the resistor, or it will burn out. no harm done. Simply the LED will stop changing shade by tracking the change in position of the switch. Color is irrelevant to water temperature. Easy to spot. no thermal fuse. We believe that there is simply no protection. Those, who wish, can equip the metal case, next to the ring socket. Provide protection against empty switch-on. This kettle can cause a fire if it is not protected. We recommend supplementing the device with a thermal fuse. Put not somewhere in the center, by the perimeter of the heating element, increasing reliability.

Resistance of the heating element is 30 Ohm. The photo shows through a fraction of the power values on a metal surface 220 and 240 V. Enough to know what can break. The design of the electric kettle is simple, even a kettle can do the repair, but Removing the lid was easy, but putting it back on! We hope the readers will solve the question on their own, we have difficulty answering. But we advise how to disassemble the switch for those who want to clean the contacts. The spacing is miserable, the steam hangs in the air. Just look at the two screws in the picture: they are rusted, even though the kettle has never been used.

We think half a year later you need to freshen the pins. Let’s take the switch apart:

• Put your finger on the plastic ear that secures the switch to the body.
• With your thumb, push the button on the opposite side.
• Gently squeeze your fingers, the restraining clamp will fly out. Guard it with the apple of your eye, or you’ll just have to throw it away.