Magyar, Garancia, Eaanvikó
Euuipop, Russian, Braun warranty obligations
Chcete-li vyuzft servisnich sluzeb v zarucnf dobè, predejte nebo poslete kompletni prfstro] spolu s
doklady o koupi do autorizovaného servisnfho strediska Braun. Aktualizovany seznam servisnfch stredisek ]e k dispozici v prodejnach vyrobkü Braun. Volejte bezplatnou infolinku 0800 11 33 22 pro
informaci o ne]blizsfm servisnfm stredisku Braun.
O prfpadné vymènè prfstroje nebo zrusenf kupnf smlouvy platf prfslusna zakonna ustanovenf. Zarucnf doba se prodluzuje o dobu, po kterou byl vyrobek
podle zaznamu z opravny v zarucnf opravè.
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keszülekeire ket ev garanciät vällal, azzal a megkötessel, hogy a jotälläsi igenyt a keszülek
csomagoläsäban talälhato Jotälläsi Nyilatkozatban feltüntetett Braun märkaszervizekben lehet ervenyesiteni.
A garancia hatälya alol kivetelt kepeznek
azok a meghibäsodäsok, amelyek a keszülek szakszerutlen, vagy nem rendeltetesszeru
hasznälatära vezethetok vissza, valamint azok az
aprobb hibäk, amelyek a keszülek erteket, vagy
A garancia nem vonatkozik a gyorsan kopo,
rendszeresen cserelendo tartozekokra (pl. Borotvaszita, kes, stb.)
A jotälläsi igeny ervenyesitesere vonatkozo
reszletes täjekoztato a keszülek csomagoläsäban
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The BRAUN Warranty
For all products we give two years warranty, starting from the date of purchase of the product.During the guarantee period we provide the following services free of charge
We will correct any defects by repairing, replacing parts or
replacement of the entire product any factory defects caused by insufficient quality
materials or assembly.If the product cannot be repaired during the warranty period, it can be replaced with a new or similar product in accordance with the
The warranty becomes effective only if the date of purchase
confirmed by the dealer’s (store’s) stamp and signature on the last page of the original BRAUN instruction manual, which
is a warranty card.This warranty is valid in by any The warranty does not cover damage caused by the defects of the
which this product is supplied by BRAUN or by a designated distributor, and where no import restrictions or other legal provisions prevent the provision of warranty service.
The implementation of the warranty service is not
affects the date of expiration of the warranty period.
The warranty on replaced parts expires at the time of
The warranty does not cover damage caused by
improper use (cf. also list below) normal wear and tear of the razor nets and blades, defects that render minor
effect on the performance of the appliance.This warranty is void if the repair
The motor is defective if it has been manufactured by an unauthorized person and
if non-original BRAUN parts have been used.
If a claim is made under the following conditions, the thermostat or the safety thermostat will be damaged
this warranty, hand over the whole product
Please ask for a copy of the warranty certificate and return it to any of the BRAUN Service Centers.
How to take apart and repair a hair dryer
The hair dryer can be used for different purposes, but one of its main tasks is drying hair. Hairdryers come in different designs and price categories. It is clear that a good appliance cannot be cheap. And if it breaks, and not even at the right time, that’s a cause for regret. But you don’t have to throw it away and run to the store for a new one. You can fix most problems yourself. Anyone can cope with this quite well, if he knows how to disassemble the hair dryer, its features, what breakdowns occur most often and how they can be eliminated independently.
How to Disassemble a Braun Swing 1400
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How to repair a hair dryer with his own hands?
It is difficult to find a girl or woman who would not use a hair dryer to dry her hair, especially in the cold season. And it is understandable, as well as to long hair well dried at room temperature, you need a few hours, and with the current pace of life. it’s a luxury.
Therefore, these devices were, are and always will be in demand. And it proves the statistics on the sales of hair dryers as a gift to women on different occasions. Exactly these devices take one of the leading places, as the thing is necessary and inexpensive.But no matter how good the quality of the product. high temperature, high current consumption, and, as a rule, improper operation, often lead to the breakdowns of household hair dryers.
And before you buy a new device, you can try to bring back to “life” an old friend. The more so that the breakage may be minor and easily solvable.
Below, there will be a detailed description of one of the most common breakdowns of hairdryers and how to fix it (using a Startex hairdryer as an example).
Of the tools you will need only those that are in almost every home. The only thing you might not have is a multimeter or some other instrument that shows the circuit. But for sure, he has an acquaintance, or a neighbor, and you can ask him for the time of repair. If, however, will not be around a kind neighbor or electrician friend, you can buy the cheapest multimeter, the more so, they are now on the market plenty. In the future it will certainly be useful, for example, to check the light bulb, battery or voltage in the network.
In the photo (picture 1) a hair dryer that has a problem in operation.
The only thing is that when you turn on the maximum power, it does not react in any way.
The hair dryer itself has three switch positions:
Most often the top position and use a hair dryer, because it gives the fastest drying. Therefore, ignore such a breakdown is inadmissible.
So, to find the cause of the malfunction, you need to disassemble the appliance. Begin at the handle.
There is a position changer and two Phillips head screws.
We put the hair dryer on its side, and unscrew the two screws.
Next, with some effort, remove one of the side parts of the handle.
After removing the cover you can see the inside of it.
Here are located: a switch, a diode, a capacitor, a zero (common) terminal and a clamp for fixing the cord.
The neutral terminal is located inside the dielectric cap (Figure 7).
In it are connected: the wire from the power cord. blue, black wire, which goes further to the heater, and one lead of the capacitor.
The position switch has three pins. One common, which is the brown phase wire from the power cord.On the other side there is a diode soldered on the pins.
If to look at the circuit diagram (Fig. 8), we can see that in one of the switch positions, the current comes to the heater through the diode. This reduces the heating power and corresponds to the middle position of the switch.
When the second contact or both contacts are closed, the current flows to the heater coil, bypassing the diode, which corresponds to the maximum power. the third position.
The capacitor serves to damp the noise emitted by the motor into the mains. This capacitor can be removed altogether. Then there will be more space in the handle, and it will not explode when the mains voltage rises.
When inspecting these components, pay attention to their external condition. There should be no damage, sooting, broken conductors, or deformation of the case from temperature conditions.
If all the wires are in place, you need to pay attention to the switch. This is the weakest link in the chain, because there is a mechanical movement of the contacts and when they open, an electric arc forms on their surface.
You can check the integrity of the diode, but in this case there is no need to do it, because at half power, the hair dryer works, which means the diode is intact.
Check the current flow through the switch.
To do this, connect one end of the circuit checker to the common terminal and the other, to the terminals on the opposite side.But it has to be done in a certain position of the switch.
First of all, connect the device where only the diode is soldered on and set the lever of the switch to the middle position.
The indicator shows the circuit. So, the contacts inside the case are closed and this is good.
Then move the probe to the second lead where in addition to the diode soldered wire.
The switch should be in the highest position (Figure 12).
Fig. 12. The switch in the uppermost position Fig. 13. Check the second lead
The indicator does not show a chain, it means that there is something wrong with the contacts. Fortunately, the switch is dismountable. The upper and lower parts of the switch are fastened with two screws.
They must be unscrewed carefully. Тут поможет отвертка, и необязательно крестовая. A fine-tipped straight edge such as an oscillating knife is sufficient.
The screws are screwed in quite tightly, so some effort is required. You have to be very careful, the screwdriver is thin and can cause deep injury if it slips off. It is therefore better not to put your fingers under the switch.For convenience, you can remove all the stuffing by unscrewing the cable clamp.
Now you can put the bottom part of the case against the table and push the screwdriver on the screw (Figure 14).
Small screws can be easily unscrewed in this way. When both screws are out, carefully remove the top cover of the switch with two fingers.
Under the screw is the handle of the switch, on the back side of which a special groove is cut out, thanks to which the contacts are pressed or lifted at a certain position of the switch lever.
In the center of the handle, a hole is made for a spring, which, together with the metal ball (Figure 16), provides a stepped change of modes. When disassembling, make sure that the spring and the ball are not lost. It is best to put them in a matchbox, for example.
Next, let’s move on to examining the contacts (Fig. 17).
The fixed ones are at the top and the mobile ones have a spring structure so that the contacts are closed if they are not actuated. When switching modes, the cams of the lever press the contacts and they move down and open under the action of the cams.
If you look from the side at the contacts (Fig. 18), you can see that the near contact has not returned to the original position to close the circuit.
Just this contact is responsible for turning on the maximum power of heating, which did not work.
In the photo below, you can see how the contacts work. When the far contact is pressed, it deflects.
If you release it, it goes back and closes the circuit.
Fig. 20. The contact has returned
Do the same with the other contact.
It goes down and does not come back (Fig. 22).
Fig. 22. The contact has not come back
Most likely, the flexible conductor with a contact, rubbed against the side inner wall of the switch body and blocked in the lower position. This is the cause of the device malfunctioning in one of the modes.
In order to get the switch back to normal operation, the following sequence of actions is necessary:
- Gently squeeze the contact block with the “duckbill” or small pliers. This will allow the contact to move freely in the groove of the switch body. Fig. 23. Squeeze the contact block
- You also need to file the edges of the flexible conductors. To do this, the contact pad itself can be removed. It will be more convenient to work them. Fig. 24. Finishing edges of conductors with a file
- Use the same file to clean the contacts from carbon deposits. Fig. 25. Getting rid of carbon deposits
- Putting the contact area back in place. Fig. 26. Put the plate in place
- For better sliding, grease the inside walls of the case with lithol. Fig. 27. The lithol on the tip of the pick Fig. 28. Lubricate with litho grease
Now you can check how the contact stroke has improved. Press with your finger on the contact, and release it.
You can see that the contact works properly now, and there is nothing to prevent it from moving.
Next, it is necessary to insert the spring into the hole of the switch handle.
The metal ball is best inserted into one of the grooves on the housing (Figure 31). That way it will not come off the spring when the shift knob is installed.
It is important which side of the knob should be facing, as this will affect the correct operation of the switch.
When the correct side is determined, flip the lever over so that the center of the spring hits the ball and not the side.
Holding the handle, put the upper part of the switch body on it.
Keeping the lid on, we tighten the two fixing screws Now the switch is ready and without assembling the hairdryer it is possible to test its operation in different modes.
Since the current-carrying parts are open, you have to switch modes with the power plug unplugged. And only after you have made the switch do we apply the power.
If everything works, you can reassemble the device. But if you want, you can make an inspection of the working part of the hair dryer and the contacts of the temperature sensor.
To do this, unscrew another screw, and remove the rear grille.
Next, use a knife to separate the two parts of the housing.
Pull apart two halves of the motor with heater with fingers. There may be debris and hair on them, which must be removed.
Find the pins of the temperature sensor and deburr them with a file.
After that, put the heater back in, making sure that the gasket of heat-resistant material remains in its place.
Snap on the rear grille and tighten the screw.
Then we insert the switch into the special slots, making sure that the control knob’s square is exactly on the switch’s “flag”. We put the wires in the bottom of the knob and put on the other half of the knob.
Clamping the screws and checking the device operation.
At this point the repair of the hair dryer can be considered over.
Hair dryer repair manual
Rarely a woman today can do without a hair dryer. But unfortunately, to find a good hair dryer now. a very difficult task, they often fail. Fortunately, thanks to its primitive design, the repair of the hair dryer with its own hands is not particularly difficult even at home.
Almost all hair dryers have a similar design. It consists of a body in which the other parts are located. the switch, the motor, combined with the impeller and the heater. Power comes into the device through the power cord, then it goes to the switch, which has several working positions. With it the voltage goes to the motor and the heating element.
Since the motors used in hair dryers. low voltage (designed for voltages from 12 to 36 V), DC, and in our network of 220-250 VAC, the current supplied to the motor, passes through a special spiral located in the heating element. After the passage of the coil voltage is reduced to the required voltage, but the current remains AC, so it goes to the diode bridge, where it is rectified and only then goes to the motor, forcing it to rotate the impeller.
The heating element is a nichrome wire twisted into a spiral and fixed to a framework of heat-resistant material. There can be several such spirals in the heating element. It is needed to be able to change the temperature of the air flow by switching modes.
The hair dryer is also designed with two degrees of thermal protection. The first one is implemented as a thermostat which stands in the gap of the supply wire and is located at the outlet of the heater. It opens the circuit when a certain temperature is reached, turning off the device. After it cools down, it closes the circuit, restoring the performance of the device. If the thermostat for some reason did not work, and the temperature continues to rise, the second degree is activated in the form of standing in the circuit break the fuse, which burns out and the device turns off. Unlike the thermostat, the fuse is a disposable part, and must be replaced after tripping.
On this drawing you can see where the various parts are located:
The principle of operation of the hair dryer is simple as hell: the air is sucked through the intake holes and the impeller is driven through a heating element where its temperature increases to a level given by the selected mode. Then a stream of hot air passes through the nozzle and hits your hair.
But to fully understand the principle of operation, one drawing is not enough. Besides it, we need a schematic diagram of the hair dryer
In the future, when considering malfunctions, we will refer to it.
Thanks to a simple design and the fact that it appeared quite a long time ago (in the 1950s), a huge number of statistics on the breakdowns have accumulated over the years of operation, and all the possible faults of the hair dryer are now well known. You won’t have to do much diagnostics and repair, all together will take you max 1 hour.
For simplicity and convenience, we will make a list of faults / solutions that we will refer to in our diagnostics. The component designations in brackets represent those in the circuit diagram. If after #xAB;/#xBB; nothing is written, then you need to replace the faulty element with a working one.
Open or short circuit in the power cord / replace the cord, or cut out the problem area, connect the wire and insulate it well.
Capacitor (C1) or resistor (R1) breakdown /.
Thermostat (F2) or fuse (F1) malfunction.
The cold air button (SB1) is defective / replace it with a working one. When replacing, note that this button is normally closed and open. If you do not need it, you can disconnect the wires from it and connect the wires together.
Rectifier diode breakdown (VD1. VD4) /.
Faulty smoothing capacitors (C2, C3) /.
Hair wrapped around motor shaft and jammed / cut hair off with office knife or scalpel. Be careful not to damage the impeller.
Grease dried out on the motor bearings / wash them from the old grease with a solvent filled syringe with a needle, and lubricate the bearings with liquid silicone grease.
Breakage in the nichrome spirals (H1. H3) / if breakage is not visually noticeable, disassemble and carefully scrape with knife terminals, through which it is connected to wires and assemble them back. If it does not help or the breakage is visible to the naked eye. replace the coil with one of the same resistance.
Short circuit of coils (H1. H3) with each other / if the frame of the heater is intact, change the coils for a new one, if you find a damaged frame and you do not have the same to replace. postpone the repair until better times or throw out the hair dryer.
The heating element is heavily soiled / disconnect it from the supply wires and soak it in a detergent solution. After 2 hours, brush it with a toothbrush, rinse under running water and reattach it. Don’t forget to dry it thoroughly before installing it in a hair dryer.
The fan impeller is broken / replace it with a suitable one. Glue or solder won’t help here as you can’t center the impeller well and it will break quickly due to the resulting vibrations.
Note that all items in the list are in order of diagnosis.
In order not to puzzle over how to disassemble the hair dryer, you need to prepare for this in advance. Manufacturers are trying to complicate the disassembly of their products, using screws with non-standard (fork, star, triangle) notches and hiding them under stickers and plugs. Before you start disassembly, make sure you have a screwdriver with interchangeable bits, and that the kit has the bits you need.
Remove any plugs or stickers from the enclosure before removing the screws. Once you have removed all the screws, you can try to gently separate the halves of the case using a plastic card (you can use any object you are comfortable with. It is important that it be plastic. Metal can damage the parts that can be separated). If the halves do not yield, make sure you have not missed any screws that are well hidden. After making sure that there are no countersunk screws, apply more force and loosen the latches that hold the housing.
Now let’s look at the repair steps you need to take. Again make a list, but this time first the symptoms of the fault and then #xAB;/#xBB; the item numbers from the list of faults that need to be checked. Check the items in the order they are listed.
A hair dryer works when it is stationary, but as soon as you pick it up, it starts to malfunction / 1, 4, 11, 12.
When plugging into the network, circuit breaker at the apartment inlet gets triggered / 1, 2.
Heating goes on, but the impeller does not work, no airflow / 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
Only cold air is blowing, other modes have no effect / 4, 5, 11, 12.
The impeller slowly spins, the airflow is weak and the hair dryer is making a lot of noise / 8, 9.
When working smells burned, but otherwise all is normal / 13.
Strong vibrations and noises are heard, but the airflow is absent or very weak / 14.
It also happens that the hair dryer when plugged in does not show any signs of life. In that case you need to do a complete diagnostics.
For this we need a multimeter, without it you can’t do anything. Before starting the work switch off the power supply and switch the multimeter to the diode test mode (in this mode a short circuit is detected and a squeaker goes off).
First check the power cord by testing each strand from the plug to the capacitor C1, then proceed to check elements C1 and R1. None of them should be short-circuited. Then check the thermal fuse F1 and the thermostat F2. They are normally short-circuited, an open circuit indicates that they are faulty. Next you need to check the switch SW1. Switch it to the hottest air possible and wire the leads to each other. If there are no breaks and the contact is not lost, then there is nothing wrong with the switch. And also note that the elements L1 and L2 should not be at a break.
Go to the rectifier diodes VD1. VD4 and diode VD5. They should be ringing only in one direction, if the diode is conducting current in both directions, or is open it is faulty. After checking the smoothing capacitors C2 and C3 (short circuits in them means they are faulty), you can start measuring the motor M1 by switching your multimeter to the resistance measurement mode. If there is a breakage or short circuit between the motor leads (for such motors, the minimum resistance is 5 ohms), the motor is defective.
Now we can deal with the H1 coils. H3. When checking them, do not touch the coils themselves with the feeler probes but touch the wires of the connecting terminals, otherwise you may not see the bad contact in the terminals themselves. If the resistance of the coils does not differ much from the one in the circuit diagram, then everything is okay. A lower resistance indicates a short circuit between the coils and a higher resistance indicates poor contact in the terminals. An endless resistance indicates a breakage.
Now you only have to check the SB1 button (if it is faulty it should be closed) and the diagnosis is finished. Now you need to fix the detected faults with the methods from the list of faults. After that you only need to reassemble the hair dryer, performing the disassembly steps in reverse order and that’s it, the repair is complete.
Test the hair dryer by plugging it in. Next we look at the situation:. all functions work fine, so you have done everything correctly;. the hair dryer does not work as it should, or does not turn on at all. look for where you have made a mistake, and after detection correct it.
P. S.: The article was written to order, but we didn’t get along with the customer. He insisted that the article meet all the requirements of search engines and give a good position in the. I, on the other hand, insisted that the article should also be useful to readers. The client gave a lot of stupid keys, which turned the article into something that he didn’t understand.
In the end, the customer was told to fuck off, and you can see the article in front of you now)
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In this review, I will talk about a device that I used for almost 6 years constantly, but now I use it only on special occasions. Hair Dryer Braun B-1200 Swing
DESCRIPTION AND TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Warranty period: 2 years
Where to buy: for example, in the “Eldorado” Home Appliance Store
Weight: 310 grams
Power: 1200 W
Adjusting: 2 modes
Cold air: no
Cord length: 1.9 meter
Braun appliances are quite well known in the market. World famous German brand.
The power flower nozzle combines hot air with cold air and distributes the airflow for fast, gentle drying
Here’s the power flower attachment I have, and the other one. With a concentrator of air where. then a long time ago. I don’t even know what it looks like, but it works fine even without it.
The hair dryer has this gray. Green color shade, a little holographic and shimmering.
Two-speed switch on the back of the handle. It runs quite smoothly, but it does not wiggle.
The air aspirator (or whatever it’s called correctly) has a spidery standard structure and is equipped with a filter. Especially good for the hair. I had one when I was a kid. it was a horrible hair dryer that would rip your hair and suck it into this turbine.
The handle of the device is quite ergonomic, it is not heavy for the hands in comparison with professional hair dryers. I had a Rowenta semi-professional, so it was possible to pump your hand, and this lightweight.
The filter is easily taken off, cleaned and put back on by an easy movement of the hand.
The airflow comes from here. Thanks to the bell in the shape of a flower, the air is distributed evenly, but it does not hit one point, I also like this hair dryer.
The wire is long enough and handy enough to dance while you’re drying in the bathtub, and to dry the wet dog hiding from you under the couch, for example. The plug is standard, for normal outlets and extension cords, it’s just right.
For about a year I haven’t dried my hair at all, because I’ve been taking care of it, cherishing and nurturing it, protecting it from negative environmental effects.
Since my whole life I have been using a hair dryer in a very unhealthy way, I have decided to basically eliminate it. for a while for sure.
It happens that yes. I use it. But as a hairdryer has no cold air in its arsenal, I use it only on naturally dried hair from afar, for a short time and only on the hair roots. For volume and to dry the head itself before an unscheduled outing, for example.
The hair dryer allows me to quickly get some volume at the roots on thin hair. If you add what. If you’re looking for a product and use a special styling brush, then it’ll do even better.
Most of the time I blow-dry dogs after bathing in the winter and summer to minimize the “life” time of the wet dog ambergris, as well as to avoid getting it on surfaces with upholstery, such as the couch and bed.
PROS AND CONS
On the plus side of the device I would call it:
- Long life and indestructibility
- easy on the hands by weight
- cute design
- compactness
- dries fast enough
Bottom line, if this model is still on sale, I think it is worth buying for someone who dries infrequently, for example. This hair dryer is not suitable for hair addicts, but it works fine for everybody. So he deserves a solid 4.
I never thought I would write an ode to the hair dryer. But this appliance from Braun really deserves it.
I don’t know if they are on sale now in stores and how much they cost. At one time my mother bought it for 900, I think.
It was 2005. 2005 (!) I went to OmSU and was leaving my hometown. My hair was below my shoulder blades at the time, so I was not late for classes. my mom bought me this hair dryer. I was guided by three criteria when buying it:
It was worth the price 10,000,000%. No question about it.
Compact. Of course, there are smaller hair dryers. But this one isn’t great either. He was with me in Omsk, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Yekaterinburg, Novosibirsk, Tyumen, France, Italy. ♪ And nowhere near as big a burden ♪.
Фен BRAUN BC 1400 Swing. разборка и ремонт.
Simplicity. This hair dryer has two drying speeds and a cold air button. All. Nothing extra. It seems that at one time there were more attachments. Or maybe it’s just my imagination, I don’t remember. But now I have one nozzle and I have been drying my hair with it for 14 years.
On the plus side, of course, I would add reliability. No, it doesn’t. ♪ I’VE NEVER BEEN A BIG BURDEN ♪.
Over 10 years without a single breakage or complaint. I don’t just dry my hair with it, though. Intrigued? I use it to dry paint and varnish when doing decoupage, and in general for hand-made activities.
In general, if you see this baby in the store. go to ! I am of course not sure, maybe the build quality has deteriorated over the years. After all, it is clear that the production of goods that will work forever is not profitable. But I want to believe that Braun keeps its brand and still make quality things.
Hair dryer repair
If a faulty cord is found it must be replaced. You can check the integrity of the cord with a multimeter. Turn on your multimeter to measure the resistance, take turns measuring the resistance of the cord strands. A good core will show zero, but a burnt core will show infinite resistance.
The fuse is a one piece item. It is short-circuited, it just burns out when it reaches a critical temperature. This, too, can be checked with a multimeter, if such a defect is present, the fuse must be replaced. In this case you need a soldering iron and a new fuse.
The malfunction may also be in the thermal switch. The bimetallic plate, the basis of this device, may lose its properties due to high temperature and stop working. In this case the switch must also be replaced because it cannot be rebuilt.
Another reason for repair can be a burnout of the heating element. This happens most often with the “Scarlett” hair dryer (how to disassemble and repair it, you can learn from the article). Coil burnout can occur for two reasons: failure of protection and long service life. In this case, you need to replace the coil, first restoring the protection. If the motor does not work, it must be replaced.
