How to disassemble a Braun Freestyle Iron

Braun Iron. repair with your own hands

Steam irons from the German manufacturer Braun enjoy well-deserved popularity due to high reliability. At the same time, many users don’t know how to take apart a Braun iron to remove limescale or to repair this appliance after prolonged use.

In addition to limescale buildup, one of the main causes of malfunctions is a breakdown in the automatic shutoff controls. If you don’t want to fiddle with it, you can take it to your nearest repair center. But you have to pay for such repairs, and you have to wait at least a few days for a finished device.

There is another option. to perform the repair of the iron Braun with their own hands (if you have the appropriate tool). If this happens, you have to take the iron apart, which only takes a few minutes. How to do it, we will tell further.

The process of dismantling a Braun FreeStyle Iron

The peculiarity of German irons is that the fixing bolts are made with star-shaped heads. To unscrew them, you can make a tool from an ordinary flat screwdriver. It is necessary to pick up the size of the working blade, so that it fits into the hole of the bolt head, and then file it in such a way, as shown in the figure below.

Procedure. table

It is best to work in the sequence shown in the table (but there may be slight variations):

Use a screwdriver with a remodeled tip to remove the screws that hold the back cover in place. Remove the cover

Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the top decorative cover in the housing. This will require bending back the mounting tabs

In the front part of the casing, pry open the spray arm and the filler cap with a screwdriver and remove them. It is easy to remove the parts

Unscrew the mounting screw in the atomizer recess with a screwdriver

Use a screwdriver to pry open the catches and remove the ball lock for the power cord

Insert a screwdriver underneath and gently pull out the temperature controller. After that, turn the iron upside down, with the cone holder and ratchet spring falling out of the hole near the thermostat. Do not lose them

Pull out the electronic control box with the TENS connector. Depending on the modification, it may differ both in appearance and the number of realized functions

Then separate the top part of the housing from the soleplate. The base of the iron will be left on the table with the plastic cover on it

Use pliers to turn the ratchets at the places indicated in the picture. Rotate clockwise by 90 degrees until they align with the grooves in the body

Open the soleplate by removing the plastic cover. Now you can remove limescale from the metal base, which houses the heating element (hereinafter also referred to as the heating element)

Here is a video showing the disassembly and reassembly of the Braun FreeStyle appliance:

How to get rid of limescale

You can remove lime scale on your own with the help of concentrated vinegar or citric acid solution. Use water heated to a temperature of 5060 ℃ to prepare it. Proportions: 10 g of acid per 100 ml or 1 tbsp. One litre of vinegar per one litre of water. Immerse the sole plate so that the solution is inside it. After a short time the scale will become friable and can be easily removed. After descaling, rinse the part thoroughly with running water. Reassemble your Braun iron in reverse order of reassembly.

The solution to the autoshutdown problem

If the automatic switch-off function is no longer available, the appliance can no longer function correctly. Trouble starting up, spontaneous shutting down during ironing. Apparently the horizontal sensor in the control unit has stopped working.

You can solve the problem yourself if the auto-disconnect function is not necessary. It is sufficient to connect the white and brown wires going to the control unit. The connection place is insulated with heat shrink tape. After that the appliance will continue to operate, but the switch-on indication will not work (and neither will the auto-off function).

The disassembly process of the Braun TexStyle Iron

This series of electric irons is also easy to disassemble. They are similar in design to the FreeStyle series.

Procedure. table

Disassembly of the iron is carried out in the sequence shown in the table:

The mounting screws of the back cover are located under the rubber cover. Their heads are also star-shaped. Therefore in order to unscrew them you need to make a screwdriver of the same shape as shown above (to repair FreeStyle appliances)

After unscrewing the screws and removing the back cover you will see the control box with the cord connected to it

To remove the control box, pull it toward you, rocking it slightly from side to side. If it will not slide, help with a screwdriver by inserting it from below between the housing and the control unit

Control box, connector side view. The holes seen in the foreground include the contact plates of the soleplate. The heating element built into the soleplate is connected to the plates

Further disassembly follows the same procedure as described above for the Braun FreeStyle. That is, you have to remove the temperature regulator, filler cap, atomizer, unscrew one more fixing screw underneath in the nose of the housing, as well as turn the plastic cover retainers on the soleplate with pliers. At the end of the disassembly, the base of the iron will completely separate, as shown in the photo

Reassemble the Braun TexStyle iron in reverse order. If the control unit is broken, including malfunctions with auto shutoff, it will have to be completely replaced, since you can not connect the wires. They are filled with compound, so it is better to take the iron to a service center for repair.

You can descale the case and the metal base in the same way as described above.

What to do if the electric heater in your Braun iron is burnt out?

Unfortunately, with the above Braun ironers, the heating element can only be replaced along with the soleplate. If it is burned out, you will have to buy a new iron base. Since its cost is not much less than the price of an iron, it makes sense to consider buying a new household appliance.

You can check the integrity of the heating element with a multimeter by measuring the resistance between the two outermost plates coming out of the base. The resistance of the whole heater is from 50 to 60 Ohm. If the gauge reads a very high value or its indicator flashes, there is a break in the circuit.

Disassembling and descaling an iron using the Braun FreeStyle as an example

Limescale is the bane of steam irons. It does not spare any model. As a result there is such a need, how to remove limescale in the iron. You can, of course, use the tips and pour citric acid or something of that kind inside the device. But no remedy will have the same effect as taking apart a braun iron in this case, and its subsequent preventive cleaning. The more that such an operation to perform their own efforts is not so difficult. And also this operation and carrying out preventive work is performed in such a way that, in addition to the scale, the lint in the iron, which accumulates under the plastic body on the metal parts, is also removed as a result.

How to Disassemble a Brown Freestyle Iron

The first thing to do is to unscrew the screws that hold the rear cover. They are “star” and have a pin in the center. If you do not have a bit with a hole in the center, you can drill out the pin with a drill, using a regular star bit.The back cover is effortlessly removed and gives you access to the electronic control box and the terminal block. Taking out all the electrical stuff together with the wire and the LEDs. This will need to put some effort, but certainly do not unscrew anything. It is enough to unlock the latches that are visible to the eye. When the electronic unit and the contact strip are removed, then further disassembly of the Braun iron continues with the removal of the decorative plate on top of the device. It is attached to the two latches, which are clearly visible in the resulting cavity. If it is not removed at this stage, it will be extremely difficult to assemble.

Next, you remove the filler cap and the atomizer on the front of the iron. These parts can be simply removed by gently lifting them with a flathead screwdriver. Underneath the atomizer, another bolt is accessed. This is the star again, but without the pin in the center. After unscrewing it, the bottom part of the iron is separated from the top part easily and effortlessly. It has latches, but they are easy to open. Then the metal sole must be separated from the bottom plastic part. To do this turn counterclockwise the metal lugs with pliers.

Half the job is done. How to disassemble a Braun iron is clear! You can begin to clean it. Limescale removal solution can be prepared by yourself. For this, pour hot water into a plastic or metal enameled or stainless steel container, add acetic or citric acid, and wash the entire freezer with water. The concentration should be such that when the soleplate of the iron is dipped into the solution, carbon dioxide bubbles should begin to form almost immediately, indicating a violent reaction. The acid dissolves the lime scale and the iron becomes more porous and brittle. Pour the same solution into the hole at the top of the iron soleplate. After a couple of hours, you can drain the solution and rinse the iron soleplate thoroughly under running water. You will see flakes of lime scale being removed from the holes along with the water.

Having disassembled the iron to this state, it is necessary to get rid of the lint that has accumulated on the metal parts inside the iron. To do this, rinse the parts under running water, you can use a brush, but most often this is not necessary.

Reassemble the iron in the reverse order. The main thing is to make sure that no unnecessary parts are left!

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The Electric Circuit Diagram of an Iron

The electric circuit of an iron with a steamer is standard and differs little from the circuit of a simple electric iron without the function of steam supply.

On the diagram, the letters SK indicate the sensor that determines the position (horizontal, vertical).

KM is a relay that closes/opens a circuit.

There may be a light bulb between them to indicate the iron’s operation.

The red and blue numbers indicate the points for testing the circuit current when the iron is cold and when the iron is hot. We attach one probe of the multimeter to the plug and with the other one we test the main components of the circuit in series, looking for the absence of voltage.

Warning! The KM relay is normally open: if the iron is on, the contacts close the circuit and transfer the voltage to the heating element.

How to disassemble

Modern irons have a beautiful appearance, and it is not easy to find the places where the screws are located. Even if you find an example of the location of the fasteners in the iron on the internet, it does not mean that in your version they will be in the same places. Even the same model may have different attachment points from year to year. The functionality of most steam irons is similar, differing only in the position and shape of one or the other part. The diagram below shows the general structure of an iron with a sprinkler and a steam generator. Read on to know where to look for which item in your upcoming disassembly.

Here will be described tricks with which you can disassemble the iron brown with their own hands, without recourse to the repair. After all, it’s not enough to find where the bolts are hidden, you still need to get to them.

The first thing you need to do to perform the disassembly is to stock up on tools:

• squeezers (wooden wedges) for the lid and latches;
• magnifying glass;
• flashlight (LED is better);
• Alcohol and a stack of cloth;
• A nail file and an eraser.

All of these tools can help you disassemble a brown freestyle iron with your own hands. The sequence of disassembly will be as follows:

• remove the thermostat knob;
• We remove the back cover;
• remove the contact group;
• remove the top cover;
• freeing the soleplate.

This gives us access to every part of the machine, which is what we wanted. Naturally, during the disassembly of each model will be different additions to the process. Now you will learn the basic method of disassembling a Braun iron to get the basic skills.

Back cover

It’s probably the easiest part to remove because. к. it’s fastened with screws that are easy to see. The thing is that almost all other fasteners will be hidden from your eyes in the most unexpected places and covered with plugs. But that’s all for the sake of argument. Back to disassembly.

Unscrewing two screws. They’re unusual, with a pin in the middle, so we take a special screwdriver with a hole in the middle. If you do not have a screwdriver, do not give up.

Take the pliers, nose pliers or side cutters and unscrew the screw. The cover is free! We take it off and put it aside. Let’s move on.

The upper decorative plug

Remove the upper plug by pressing with a flat screwdriver to the right and left in its front part, as shown in the pictures below. There are plastic catches that you can press on until the plug comes off. Insert flathead screwdriver or narrow knife about 1 cm deep.

Undo the latches and try to lift the part. There are two more fasteners in the back of the plug, on the right and on the left. Place the screwdriver upright and tap it lightly, trying to wedge it between the cord’s ball lock and the plug itself. Press down on the latches, prying them up. That’s all, now we can take it off.

The fill hole cover

It is pretty easy to take it off. Pick it up with your fingers on the right and left and pull it up. Pulling it out to the side.

The ball lock

The wire holder is aligned with the electronic control box. All this also comes out together. They are not fastened with bolts, so we are looking for latches. Carefully pry them off, being careful not to break them.

Temperature regulator

To remove it, undo it with a screwdriver to the right and left of the wheel, pull it up, and it will come out. Turn the iron over and shake it gently. the spring for the ratchet will fall out. This is an important part, so don’t lose it.

Sprayer

To remove the atomizer, you need to pry it with a flat screwdriver and pry it up. In the resulting recess there is a nose fixing screw.

The mounting screw

You will most likely have a hexagonal fastener. You can easily unscrew it with an ordinary flat screwdriver in several steps (if you don’t have the right one in your arsenal). This attaches the bottom of the iron to the lid. After you take it out you can separate the bottom from the top.

Manufacturers of modern household appliances are trying their best to make the repair of failed equipment unrealistic. That’s why all of a sudden there are bolts with inconceivable shapes or without any bolts at all; and they hide them in such places that it’s hard to find them. For us an excuse is prepared, that all this is made for the safety of use. Of course, we believe. But it is so, about the sore point. Let’s move on.

Plastic cover

To get to the soleplate of the iron, it is necessary to remove the plastic cover (also standing here for safety reasons). We take the pliers and twist plastic holders counterclockwise. The lid is removed, and we see in front of us the soleplate with a built-in electric heating element.

Heating element (heating element)

Since the heating coil (TEN) is entirely soldered into the soleplate, it is not possible to remove it from there.

We have finished dismantling the freestyle model. The iron of the prostyle model is disassembled in the similar sequence, only with some peculiarities of its own. And now we will move on to the repair of Braun irons with our own hands.

How to disassemble a Braun iron: a practical guide

Steam irons from German manufacturer Braun are very popular thanks to their high reliability. At the same time, many users don’t know how to take apart a Braun iron to remove scale or repair this appliance after prolonged use.

In addition to the formation of limescale, one of the main causes of malfunction is a breakdown in the automatic shutdown control devices. If there is no desire to tinker with the device, you can take it to the nearest service center. But you will have to pay for such repair, and you will have to wait for the ready device for at least several days.

There is another option. to perform the repair of Braun iron with their own hands (if you have the appropriate tools). In this case, the electric iron must be disassembled, which takes only a few minutes. Below we will tell you how to do it.

Disassembling your Braun FreeStyle Iron

The peculiarity of German irons is that the fixing bolts are made with star-shaped heads. To unscrew them, you can make a tool from an ordinary flat-blade screwdriver. It is necessary to size the blade so that it fits into the hole of the bolt head, and then file it as shown in the figure below.

Procedure. table

It is best to work in the sequence shown in the table (but there may be slight variations):

Use a screwdriver with a remodeled tip to remove the screws that secure the back cover. Remove cover

Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the upper decorative plug in the body. To remove it, bend out the retaining clips

At the front of the body, pry up with a screwdriver and remove the atomizer and filler cap. Removal is simple

Use a screwdriver to unscrew the retaining screw in the sprayer recess

Undo the latches with a screwdriver and take out the ball lock for the power cord

Insert a screwdriver under the temperature regulator and carefully remove it. After that, turn the iron upside down, with the cone retainer and ratchet spring falling out of the hole near the thermostat. Don’t lose them

Remove the electronic control unit with the connector of the heating element. Depending on its modification it may differ both in appearance and in the number of realized functions

After that separate the upper part of the housing from the soleplate. You will be left with the base of the iron and the plastic cover on the table

Use pliers to turn the ratchets at the locations shown in the photo. Turn them clockwise by 90 degrees until they are in line with the grooves in the housing

Open the soleplate by removing the plastic cover. Now you can remove limescale from the metal base, which houses the heating element (hereinafter also. TEN)

Here is a video showing you how to disassemble and reassemble your Braun FreeStyle iron:

How to remove limescale

You can descale the element yourself using a concentrated solution of vinegar or citric acid. To prepare it, use water heated to a temperature of 5060 ℃. Proportions: 10g Acid per 100ml or 1 Tbsp (50g) of vinegar per 100ml or 1 Tbsp (200g) of water. Vinegar in 1 litre of water. Submerge the soleplate so that the solution is inside it. After a while the limescale will become loose and it is easy to get rid of it. After removing the limescale, rinse the part thoroughly under running water. Reassemble your Braun iron in the reverse order.

The solution to the auto shut off problem

If the auto-disconnect function has stopped working, the device can no longer function properly. Problems with turning on, spontaneous turning off of the device during ironing is observed. Obviously, the horizontal position sensor in the control unit has stopped working.

You can solve the problem yourself if the automatic shutoff function is not necessary. To do this, simply connect the white and brown wires going to the control unit. Insulate the connection with heat shrink wrap. After this, the appliance will continue to operate, but the power-on indication will not be active (as well as the auto-off function).

Determining the cause of the failure and how to repair

To know what to repair, you must start checking the entire iron, starting with the plug. An indispensable helper here will be a multimeter or a tester. If you don’t have one, find one, ask for one, because we need one.

Also, clean any carbon deposits, if any, and any dust that has accumulated on the contacts and assemblies. Because sometimes the circuits can’t conduct current because the pins are shorted. Take a fine-grit sandpaper and give each dirty wire a good rubbing. Only then you can check the function of the circuit in the iron.

Power cord

Set your multimeter to continuity test mode to determine the continuity of the wire. Then use one alligator clip to touch the plug and the other to touch any of the wires on the block. You hear a squeak? So the wire is intact. Put the probe on the neighboring pins and listen again. If there is sound, the wire is intact everywhere.

If you hear silence, you need to figure out exactly where the break is. Or don’t look into it, and replace the damaged cord with a new one. This is the most sensible solution, but if you decide to look for the fault, then start bending the power cord in different places and listen. Where the squeaky sound comes and goes is where the wire breaks.

Important! Fixing the cord with duct tape is a temporary measure until you have a new cable at hand. As soon as you buy a new cord, immediately change the old one in the iron!

If you cut the winding, the damaged wire should look frayed. If they are both the same, then we cut one and test the wire. If there is sound on one pin, we cut the broken one, that’s fine. Remove the insulation by 1.5-2 cm and solder the wire, and then wrap it with electrical tape. We take both wires and coil them together, so they don’t hang around one by one. Everything. The cord has made. Have you checked. It works? Good. No? Repeat the process or replace it with a new one.

The thermal fuse

If the cable is intact and the iron is not warm, you need to test all parts of its electronic circuit. First of all, the fuse. It is a fusible metal wire. This element is needed so the iron will not get too hot in case of a power surge and cause a fire. If you don’t hear a squeak when testing, the fuse is blown.

Repair can be done in two ways:

Temperature regulator

There are two wires running to the bimetal plate that regulates the iron’s on/off switch at a given temperature. We put the multimeter probe on these wires and check if the thermostat is working. If the iron’s heating wheel is set to “0” there should be no sound, you should hear a ringing noise in any other ironing mode.

When the ringing comes when off, it means that the thermostat does not turn off the voltage supply to the heating element. The cause may be in the melted contacts: they need to be separated. This is a rare person, so do not be upset if you do not succeed too. Thermostat. a necessary thing, can’t do without it. We’ll get a new one.

But take your time. Maybe the contacts are just stuck together somehow and won’t go away. In this case, try to disconnect them. Be careful not to bend it.

Heating element (TEN)

Once you’ve checked the fuses and the thermostat and they’re both in order, it’s time to test the heating element in your iron.

• Look for the pins: they are at the base of the soleplate.
• Set resistance of multimeter to 1 000 Ohm and measure resistance in the heating element.
• Looking at the screen of the device: if the number fluctuates around 250 ohms, everything is fine.
• If the number is much higher than this number the heater is broken. It’s bad, very bad.
• We go for a new iron, because it is almost unreal to buy the same soleplate, and the iron is needed all the time.

Steam system

The problem with steam iron is not always that the soleplate isn’t warm. It also happens that the steam refuses to come out of the holes for steam outlet. This is not a problem, and more often than not it can be solved by hygienically cleaning the sole of your steam generator from scale or by connecting a loose water pipe (if the sprinkler is not working).

If the tubes are in place, let’s get rid of lime scale.

• Find a deep pan or a wide frying pan.
• We put the iron in such a way that the back part is higher than the front one. Stacks of coins can be used as holders. Set the steam mode to maximum.
• Prepare vinegar solution: pour 1 cup of vinegar in 1 liter of water. Fill the container by 1-1.5 cm.
• Put the system on heat and bring to a boil. Turn it off and wait for it to cool down.

Repeat steps 1-4 until we like the result. After the water treatment you need to rinse your iron with water inside and out, then fill the reservoir with water and try the steamer on the cloth you don’t regret. The thing is that for some time the undissolved pieces of limescale that we have not washed out will come out through the ducts.

To prevent limescale build-up inside the steam generator, use purified (filtered, distilled) water in the iron. That’s how you prolong the life of your iron. That’s the end of the troubleshooting and repair methods for your Brown iron.

Steam irons from the German manufacturer Braun enjoy well-deserved popularity due to their high reliability. At the same time, many users do not know how to disassemble the Braun iron to remove scale or repair this device after prolonged use.

In addition to the formation of scale, one of the main causes of failure is a breakdown in the automatic shutdown control devices. If you have no desire to tinker with your appliance, you can take it to your nearest service center. But you’ll have to pay for such a repair, and you’ll have to wait at least a few days for a ready device.

Another option is to repair your Braun iron with your own hands (if you have the right tool). In this case, the electric iron must be disassembled, which will take only a few minutes. Read on to find out how to do it.

Disassembling the Braun FreeStyle Iron

The peculiarity of German irons is that the fastening bolts are made with star-shaped pins. To unscrew them, you can make a tool from an ordinary flat screwdriver. You need to find the size of the working blade so that it fits into the hole of the bolt head, and then file it in the way shown in the figure below.

How to proceed. table

It is best to work in the sequence shown in the table (but there may be slight variations):

With a screwdriver with a modified tip unscrew the screws that fasten the back cover. Remove the lid

Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the top decorative plug in the housing. To do this, you will have to bend back the fastening hooks

At the front of the enclosure, pry open with a screwdriver and remove sprayer and filler cap. It is easy to remove the parts

Unscrew the fixing screw in the atomizer recess with a screwdriver

Bend out the catches with a screwdriver and take out the ball catch of the power cord

Insert a screwdriver underneath and carefully pull out the temperature regulator. Then turn the iron upside down, with the tapered catch and ratchet spring coming out of the hole near the thermostat. Do not lose them

Remove the electronic control box with the heating element connector. Depending on the modification, it may differ both in appearance and the number of realized functions

Then separate the upper part of the housing from the sole. The base of the iron will be left on the table with the plastic cover put on it

Use pliers to turn the ratchets at the places indicated in the picture. It is necessary to turn clockwise by 90 degrees, until they do not coincide with the grooves in the body

Open the soleplate by removing the plastic cover. Now you can descale the metal base in which the heating element (hereinafter also Heating Element) is located

We offer our readers a video, which shows the disassembly and assembly of the appliance Braun FreeStyle:

How to get rid of limescale

You can descale the pan yourself using a concentrated solution of vinegar or citric acid. To cook it, use water heated to a temperature of 50 60 ℃. Proportions: 10g Acid per 100ml or 1 Tbsp. Vinegar per 1 liter of water. Submerge the sole plate so that the solution is inside it. After a short time the scale will become friable and can be removed easily. After removing the limescale, rinse the part thoroughly under running water. Reassemble your Braun iron in reverse order.

The solution to the auto shut off problem

If the automatic shutoff function has stopped working, the device can no longer work correctly. The iron has problems with switching on, you can see that the device switches off during the ironing. Apparently the horizontal position sensor in the control unit has stopped working.

You can solve the problem yourself if the auto power off function is not necessary. It is enough to connect the white and brown wires going to the control unit. The connection place is insulated with heat shrinking tape. After that, the appliance will continue to operate, but the on indicator light will not work (as well as the auto-off function).

Electrical diagram of the iron

The electric circuit of an iron with a steamer is standard, and differs little from that of a simple electric iron without the steam function.

SK in the diagram is the sensor that determines the position (horizontal, vertical).

KM is the relay which closes/opens the circuit.

There may be an iron operation indicator light in between.

The red and blue numbers indicate the points to check the current in the circuit when the iron is cold and hot. We attach one probe of the multimeter to the plug, and with the other probe we test the main nodes of the circuit in series, looking for the absence of voltage.

Warning! The KM relay is normally open: if the iron is on, the contacts close the circuit and supply voltage to the heating element.

How to disassemble

Modern irons are notable for their beautiful appearance, and it is not so easy to find the places where the screws are located. Even if you find an example of the location of the fasteners in the iron on the Internet, it does not mean that in your version they will be in the same places. Even the same model may have different fastener locations from one year to the next. The functionality of most steam irons is similar, differing only in the position and shape of this or that part. The following picture shows the general construction of an iron with a sprinkler and a steam generator. Familiarize yourself so you know where to look for which item in the upcoming disassembly.

Here will be described tricks with which you can disassemble the iron brown with their own hands, without going to the repair. After all, it is not enough to find where the bolts are hidden, you still need to get to them.

The first thing you need to do to carry out the disassembly is to stock up on tools:

• Squeezers (wooden wedges) for the cover and latches;
• magnifying glass;
• a flashlight (LED is better);
• alcohol and a rag;
• nail file and eraser.

All these devices will help you to disassemble the iron brown freestyle by yourself. The sequence of disassembly will be as follows:

• remove the thermostat handle;
• remove the back cover;
• Remove the contact group;
• remove the top cover;
• free the soleplate.

As a result, we get access to every part of the assembly, which is what we wanted. Naturally, during the disassembly of each model will be different additions to the process. Now you will learn the basic way to disassemble a Braun iron to get the basic skills.

Back cover

This is probably the easiest part to remove as it is the most difficult to remove. к. it is fastened with screws which are easy to see. The thing is that practically all other fasteners will be hidden from your sight in the most unexpected places and covered with plugs. But that’s lyric. Back to disassembly.

Unscrew the two screws. They are unusual, with a pin in the center, so take a special screwdriver with a hole in the middle. If you don’t have a screwdriver, don’t give up.

Take a pair of pliers or side cutters and unscrew the screw. The cover is free! Remove it and set it aside. Moving on.

The upper decorative cover

Let’s take off the top cover by pushing it with a flat screwdriver to the right and left in its front part as it is shown in the pictures below. There are plastic latches hidden there that need to be pressed so that the plug comes off. Insert a flat screwdriver or a narrow knife about 1 cm deep.

Lift the latches and try to lift the part. There are two more fasteners at the back of the plug, on the right and left. We put a screwdriver upright and lightly tap it, trying to wedge it between the ball lock of the cord and the plug itself. Press down on the latches, prying them up. That’s it, you can remove it now.

Fill hole cover

It’s pretty easy to remove. Just pry it right and left with your fingers and pull it up. Pull it to the side.

Ball retainer

The wire holder is attached to the electronic control box. It all comes out together as well. They are not bolted down, so we are looking for latches. Carefully lift them, being careful not to break them.

Temperature regulator

To remove it, pry right and left of the wheel with a screwdriver, pull it up and it will come out. Turn the iron over and shake it slightly. the spring for the ratchet will fall out. This is an important part, so don’t lose it.

Sprayer

To remove the atomizer, you need to pry it open with a flathead screwdriver and pry it up. In the resulting recess is the nose fixing screw.

Fastening screw

You’ll probably have a hexagonal fastener. It can be easily unscrewed with an ordinary flat screwdriver in several steps (if you don’t have the necessary one in your arsenal). He attaches the bottom of the iron to the lid. After you take it out, the bottom can be separated from the top.

Manufacturers of modern household appliances are trying their best to make the repair of faulty equipment unrealistic. For this reason they suddenly appear bolts with unthinkable shape or without any nails, and moreover they hide them in such places that it’s hard to find them. There’s an excuse prepared for us that it’s all designed to be safe to use. Of course we do. But that’s about it. Let’s move on.

Plastic cover

To get to the soleplate of the iron, you need to remove the plastic cover from it (also standing here for safety reasons). We take pliers and twist the plastic locks counterclockwise. The lid is removed and we see the soleplate with built-in electric heating element.

Heating element (heating element)

Since the heating coil (TEN) is entirely soldered into the soleplate, it is not possible to remove it from there.

We have finished disassembling the freestyle model. The prostyle iron is disassembled in the same way, but with some details of its own. And now we will move on to the repair of Braun irons with our own hands.

Power cord

Failure of the electric cord is a fairly common type of failure. If this damage occurs, the iron may not turn on at all or work intermittently, the soleplate may not warm up properly. The cord can bend, curl, in places of bending damages the insulation, some wires can be frayed completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.

If there is any damage, any iron repair begins with checking the cord. To find out for sure if it is OK or not, you need to test it. To do this, simply remove the back cover. The terminal block, to which the cord is connected, will become accessible. You’ll need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the identification mode, one probe pressed to one contact of the plug, the other touch one of the wires on the strip. If you touch the “right” wire, the multimeter should make a squeaking sound. This means that the wire is intact.

Check the integrity of the power cord

The color of the insulation conductors can be any, but the yellow-green is necessarily ground (it must be checked by placing a probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Here is one of these two wires should ring with the pin, to which you pressed the probe multimeter. Repeat the same operation with another pin.

To be sure the cord is in good condition, you need to crumple/twist it during the test. Especially in places where there are problems with insulation. If the squeak is interrupted by such actions. it is better to replace the cord. It must also be replaced if one or both pins “do not ring”. You might be lucky and you will not need any further iron repair.

Check the heater integrity

Sometimes the heating element fails because the coil, enclosed in a metal tube, breaks. How to check the integrity of the heating element in this case? Again with a multimeter! Put the iron in resistance measuring mode and touch the heater outputs with the feeler gauges. An open coil is indicated by an infinite resistance reading which is indicated by a one or infinity symbol (the figure of eight lying on its side) on the tester.

If inside the tubular electric heating element is fixed short circuit or breakage of spiral, it is necessary to replace it urgently. only then the equipment will continue its work. Also when checking, it is recommended not to neglect the test of heating elements, which allows you to calculate a dangerous electrical breakdown on the housing.

What to do if the heating element in a Braun iron is burned out

Unfortunately, Braun ironers of the aforementioned series only have the heating element and soleplate replaced. If it burned out, you would need to buy a new iron base. Since its cost is not much less than the price of the iron, it makes sense to think about buying a new household appliance.

You can check the integrity of the heating element with a multimeter by measuring the resistance between the two outermost plates coming out of the base. The resistance of an entire heater is 50 to 60 ohms. If the meter reads a very high value or the reading flashes, there is a break in the circuit.

it should be noted that the plastic clips in the bodies of German-made ironing machines are not very durable. So be careful during disassembly.

An electronic engineer with years of experience. Has been organizing repairs of home appliances, including washing machines, for several years. Loves sport fishing, boating, and traveling.

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Astronauts in orbit solve the problem of dirty clothes with an original method. Clothes are dropped from a spaceship, and they burn up in the upper atmosphere.

History is known of a fact when a kitten got into the drum of a washing machine and got out of the machine safe and sound after a full washing cycle on the “Woolen clothes” program. The only unpleasantness for the pet was an allergy to detergent.

There is a washing machine “for bachelors”. The laundry, washed in such a machine, does not need to be ironed at all! The thing is that the device does not have a drum: some things can be placed inside the container directly on hangers (for example, jackets and shirts), and the smaller things (say, underwear and socks). on special shelves.

Washing machines with “No Ironing” or “Easy Ironing” features can wash laundry with very little crumpling. This effect is achieved by a special approach to spinning. it is performed at low speed, with long pauses, and a small amount of water is retained in the tank.

Washing machines are related to the origin of the expression “money laundering. In the 1930s, American gangsters used the laundry chain as a cover for their illegal activities. By passing off the proceeds of their criminal activities as proceeds from cleaning their clothes, they turned “dirty” money into “clean” money.

The expression “soap opera” (“soap”) was not coincidental. The very first soap operas and shows with a female audience were broadcast on television at a time when housewives were doing the cleaning, ironing and laundry. In addition, to attract viewers to the screens, commercials for detergents (soaps and powders) often ran on the air.

The first officially patented washing machine was made of wood and was a box with a frame filled halfway with wooden balls. The clothes to be washed and the detergent were loaded inside, and a lever was used to move the frame, which in its turn made the balls move and grind the laundry.

In the 19th century, washing women’s clothes took a lot of time. Dresses were pre-shredded, then each part washed and dried separately to prevent the fabric from warping. After washing, the clothes were re-stitched.

For washing small items on the road or in a hotel, it is convenient to use an ordinary plastic bag. Socks or tights are kneaded inside a knotted bag with water and detergent. This way, you could pre-soak your clothes and wash them without damaging them, or wasting a lot of powder and water.

The electric circuit of the iron

The wiring diagram of an iron with a steamer is standard, not much different from that of a simple electric iron without the steam function.

On the diagram the letters SK indicate the sensor that determines the position (horizontal, vertical).

A CM is a relay that closes/opens a circuit.

There may be an iron operating indicator light between them.

The red and blue numbers indicate points to check the current in the circuit when the iron is cold and hot. Connect one probe of the multimeter to the plug, and with the other probe in series, probe the main components of the circuit looking for no voltage.

Warning! The KM relay is normally open: if the iron is on, the contacts close the circuit and energize the iron.

How to disassemble

Modern irons have a great look and it’s not so easy to find the places where the screws are located. Even if you find an example of the location of the fasteners in the iron on the internet, it does not mean that in your version they will be in the same places. Even with the same model of different years of production the attachment points may be different. The functional equipment of most steam irons is similar and differs only in the location and shape of this or that part. The figure below shows the general construction of the iron with the sprinkler and steam generator. Read this so you know where to look for what item when you disassemble it.

Here will be described tricks with which you can disassemble a Braun iron with your own hands, without going to the repair. After all, it is not enough to find where the bolts are hidden, you still need to get to them.

The first thing you need to do to carry out disassembly is to stock up on tools:

• squeezers (wooden wedges) for the lid and latches;
• magnifying glass;
• flashlight (LED is better);
• Alcohol and a stack of cloth;
• nail file and eraser.

All of these tools will help you disassemble a Brown freestyle iron yourself. The sequence of disassembly will be as follows:

• Removing the thermostat knob;
• Remove the back cover;
• remove the contact group;
• Remove the top cover;
• release the sole.

This gives us access to every part of the machine, which is what we wanted. Naturally, during the disassembly of each model will be different additions to the process. Now you will learn the basic method of disassembling a Braun iron to get the basic skills.

The back cover

This is probably the most convenient detail to remove, because the. к. it’s fastened with screws that are easy to see. The thing is that almost all other fasteners will be hidden from your eyes in the most unexpected places and covered with plugs. But that’s lyric. Let’s go back to the disassembly.

Remove the two screws. they’re unusual, with a pin in the center, so take a special screwdriver with a hole in the middle. If you don’t have a screwdriver, don’t give up.

We take pliers or side cutters and unscrew the screw. The cover is free! Take it off and put it aside. Let’s move on.

The upper decorative plug

We remove the top cover by pushing it with a flat screwdriver to the right and left at the front as shown in the pictures below. There are plastic catches hidden inside, and you have to press them until the plug comes off. Insert flathead screwdriver or narrow knife about 1 cm deep.

Undo the latches and try to lift the part. There are two more fasteners in the back of the plug, on the right and on the left. We put a screwdriver upright and lightly tap it, trying to wedge it between the ball lock of the cord and the plug itself. Press down on the catches, prying them up. That’s it, you can take it off.

The cover of the fill hole

It’s pretty easy to take off. Use your fingers to pry right and left and pull it up. Pulling it to the side.

Ball lock

The wire holder is aligned with the electronic control box. Taking it all out all together. It isn’t bolted down, so let’s look for the pawls. Carefully pry them up, being careful not to break them.

Temperature regulator

To remove it, pry to the right and left of the wheel with a screwdriver, pull it up, and it will come out. Turn the iron upside down and give it a gentle shake, the spring for the ratchet will fall out. This is an important part, so don’t lose it.

Sprayer

To take out the atomizer, you need to pry it up with a flathead screwdriver and pry it up. The nose fixing screw is hidden in the resulting cavity.

Fixing screw

You will probably get a hexagonal socket for this fastener. It can be easily unscrewed with an ordinary flat screwdriver in several steps (if you do not have the necessary screwdriver in your arsenal). It fastens the bottom part of the iron to the lid. Once you get it out you can separate the bottom from the top.

Manufacturers of modern household appliances are trying their best to make the repair of faulty equipment unrealistic. That’s why all of a sudden there are bolts with unthinkable shape or without any shape at all, and they hide them in such places that it’s hard to find them. There is an excuse prepared for us that it is all invented for safe use. Of course we do. But it is so, about the sore point. Let’s move on.

Plastic cover

To get to the iron soleplate you need to remove the plastic cover from it (also for safety reasons it is standing here). We take the pliers and twist the plastic locks counterclockwise. The lid is removed and we see in front of us the sole with the built-in electric heating element.

The heating element (TEN)

Since the heating coil (heating element) is entirely soldered into the soleplate, it is impossible to take it out.

We have finished disassembling the freestyle model. The prostyle iron is disassembled in the same sequence, only with some details of its own. And now we will move on to the repair of Braun irons with our own hands.

Why won’t the iron get hot?

Inserted the plug into the socket, a few minutes passed, and the appliances are still not heated? It is not necessary to buy or order a new model on the internet right away. Often, when the iron does not heat up, the reasons are very simple and can be eliminated even by a layman at home.

Why won’t the iron warm up?

It is necessary to make sure that there are no defects in the upper part. Cracks and traces of melting lead to the failure of the mechanism. If the technique does not look altered, then you need to disassemble the body and look for the problem in the interior.

Important! It is not always easy to dismantle an iron, especially if it is a popular modern model. Take not only one screwdriver, but a set plus small knife.

The power cord is damaged

The easiest reason why the iron has stopped heating is that the power cord is damaged. Carefully examine the places where the contacts connect to the heating element. If at least one wire is disconnected, you need to reattach it. A tester, with which masters call the cords, will help. But if such equipment is not available, you can make it yourself. For this purpose use:

Connect the pins, if the light bulb lights up, then there is nothing wrong with the wire.

Also the problem may concern the place near the plug. In that case you need to remove a few centimeters of this section of the cord and replace it. If the cord was damaged in the middle, it is better to buy a new one at once and just install it.

Faulty temperature regulator

Checking the temperature regulator is also carried out with a home-made probe or tester. It is attached to the contact group.

If the light bulb does not light up, you need to clean the contacts with ordinary emery paper. If the regulator works as it should, but the device still does not begin to heat, then the problem is probably in the fuse.

The thermal fuse has burned out

The thermal fuse is necessary in order to disconnect the electrical target at a significant increase in temperature of the heating element, therefore, not allowing it to heat up more. Often after a long and active use of the iron, it is this element that gets damaged.

The efficiency is also determined by the heating element. Many masters advise to replace the fuse with a new one, and not to engage in its own repair. This is logical, since the circuit part has a minimum cost.

Important! You can get by without the fuse, but only if you don’t leave the iron on for a long time, or if you know for sure it’s working properly.

Failure of the heating element (heating element)

All of the previous reasons are likely to cause the light bulb not to come on. If all is well with it, the iron is heating, but not up to the end, the problem is in the work of the heating element. You either have to replace it completely, if the attachment is removable, or throw the iron away altogether, if not.

What to do if the heating element is attached with tips? Remove the soleplate, and then clean the contacts with sandpaper.

Important! Usually the platform of Philips, Tefal models is removable, but in case of Bork and Vitek the platform is molded. Now it is easier to buy new equipment than to replace the heating element completely, because you will have to pay almost the same for it.