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How to disassemble a Braun easystyle iron

How to Disassemble an Iron Braun texstyle 5

Surprised, but the problem of how to disassemble the iron is the most difficult to repair. The manufacturer is trying to foist official service on you. In the USSR, disassembling the iron was not a simple thing. What to say about the current variety. Soviet models were quite rough from an aesthetic standpoint, the master is free not to worry about appearance, modern models are beautiful, reveals such a fragile body. The plastic parts, as if on purpose, are made of a type of polymer that exhibits minimal flexibility, easy to break.

We guess the steps are done, again, to give the work to the service center. Ordinary Everyday People. used to count every penny, we want to make with our own hands. So today’s topic: how to take the iron apart.

Disassembling the iron

Let’s start, I guess, with the promised Soviet iron. We should say at once that it has little in common with steam. Let’s list the parts that make up the iron with the star inscribed in the pentagon:

disassemble, braun, iron

Inside is the power pad, soleplate heating element, thermostat and thermal fuse. The UL-84 model seen in the photo has a quick access cover to the heating element in the back of the soleplate. See the lid with the iron upside down. Admire the power contacts of the heating element. In the background you can see a gentleman’s kit for opening household appliances. Let’s explain. In the green case a lot of tips along with the typical TORX, you can see the incredible shape of the heads. The set was bought for the price of about 800. 1000. Includes adapter. Today bits are much cheaper, due to the competition of dealers.

The heads do not fit the reversible screwdriver seen here. Tit for tit entered the inner magnet through the adapter. In the gray case you can see 6 slots for the regular screwdriver heads No more than 400. Why does it take us so long to get the tool? Every video of the iron disassembly starts with complaints about the non-standard screw heads. Meantime every man should simply get a gentleman’s kit enabling unscrewing the spaceship. And the drive with interchangeable heads, readers must have purchased. Purchase a set of non-standard nozzles!

Having removed the back cover (photo no.2) we see that there are obviously no power bolts. You can see:

It is clear that you have to look for the inlet on the side of the temperature regulator. Carefully pry the handle with two screwdrivers from the sides, with a scary crackle will fly out. The adjuster was held in place by two steel springy brackets clinging to the groove. Nothing to worry about. See photo, it looks ugly, works almost half a century. Philips, Vitek, Tefal, Braun, Bosch will give such a warranty? Draw your own conclusions. See the two power screws, unscrew them immediately!

Open the cover of the temperature regulator

How to repair Steam iron at home in urdu/hindi | Steam iron repairing

To remove the sole, take apart the contact block, shown in the second photo. In the last picture we see the adjustable bimetal plate. To protect against improper dressing of the regulator during assembly, the asymmetry of the shape of the hole is noted. Disassembly complete. The power of the device is 1 kW, the resistance of the winding should be 50 ohms. Will work in any position of the thermostat, as long as the contacts are closed.

Of course, if necessary we will adjust the bimetal plate. Pliers plus steady hands are used. Bending the metal, change the switching temperature of the relay. Disconnect the heating element by disassembling the contacts in photo number 2. Check the short-circuit resistance of the relay. Great. clean contacts, polish them.

How to disassemble the iron

If your iron doesn’t work, the first thing to do is take it apart. It’s not as easy as it sounds. there are too many models, each of which may have their own “chips”. And different models of the same manufacturer may disassemble in different ways. Nevertheless, there are general principles and rules:

    Remove the back cover of the handle. This allows you to get to the terminal block. If there is some damage (a problem with the cord or a defective heating element) this is enough and there is no need to disassemble the iron any further.

The process of disassembling the iron does not require the use of force. If the iron doesn’t work, you need to look carefully at what is holding it and where. And you should not disassemble it immediately to the end. it is not always necessary.

Checking the easiest part

Often the iron does not work because of cord problems. When using it, it often bends, the insulation is damaged in places of bending, you may even get sparks. That is why the first step in the self-repair of the iron is an inspection and a cord test. For the continuity test you need a multimeter (you can read here how to use it).

Testing the power cord

Sometimes you can plug an iron in to see if the cord is the problem. If everything is working properly, the indicator light comes on. This is usually a green LED. By the fact, whether it is permanently lit or periodically goes out and will trace the condition of the cord. We twist and bend it, paying attention to the state of the signal lamp. If it flashes, then the power cord is really the culprit. It is better to replace it, but if you want, you can find the problem area (often it is visually easy to determine) and fix the situation.

Typical problems with the iron cord

If it is a problem with the insulation, but the conductor itself is intact, using duct tape to fix the problem. If the wires are damaged, they are cut, connected in a new way by soldering, and the place of connection is insulated. This repair is a temporary measure, as you will soon have problems again. not far from the “repaired” place. That is why it is better to replace the cord.

Terminals and contacts

If there is no external damage to the cord, but it does not work, you have to take the iron apart. The first step is usually no problem. there is one bolt on the back. This is probably the only fastener that can’t be hidden. Unscrew it and remove the lid.

Usually it is easy to remove the back cover. one screw

Under the back cover there is a terminal block, to which the wires from the thermostat and the heating element are connected, and our power cord is connected to the other one. The terminal block can look different. Some manufacturers (like Bosch) have it hidden under the plastic cover. You need to remove the cover. How to get to it depends on the model. Sometimes you just have to pry it off and pull it. Sometimes you have to remove some parts. It is important to get to the contacts.

Overheating can melt the socket or the cord

Often the reason that the iron does not heat is not hidden in the heating element, but in the fact that the contacts are clogged or oxidized. Sometimes there is water on the contacts (leaking capacitance), sometimes there is dust sintering, sometimes the contact is just loose. If there is one of these problems. fix it. Perhaps the repair of the iron with his own hands on this end.

If you are going to remove the wires from the pins, take a picture of how it was. There will be less of a problem when reassembling. Human memory is unreliable. The photo is much more reliable.

Checking the cord for continuity of wires

If the contacts are normal and clean, test the cord for continuity. Take a tester / multimeter, put it on the “probe” mode. We touch the pins of the cord with one feeler gauge and “search” the wires on the terminal block with the other. If the wire is intact, one of the pairs should “ring”. you should hear a beep.

The iron’s cord is three-wire, with two wires going to the pins and a third green or yellow-green wire for grounding. On an iron fork, it’s a metal plate. By touching it and the green wire on the pad you should hear the “beep” of the multimeter. If any of the wires does not ring, change the cord.

Repair Braun TS345 Iron. Stops heating, difficult to disassemble

We received a Braun iron for diagnostics at our service center. Model TexStyle 3 ts345. According to the client, it heats then does not warm. And lately it just shut off and won’t heat up anymore. The light indicator is off, but if you “tap” on the iron the power light briefly flashes.

Based on experience we can assume that the contacts of the thermostat are burnt, this is one of the most common problems with similar irons. The iron turns on and then shuts off after reaching a set temperature. At this moment there is a spark between the contacts of the thermostat and they burn.

To see if this is the cause of the malfunction of the iron, you need to disassemble it.

How to disassemble an iron Braun TS345

The first thing to do is to remove the filler cap. Behind it there is a screw fixing the nose part. It is very simple, a thin sharp object (like a needle) pushes a metal rod out of the seating hole and the cover is removed.

Then carefully remove the top button by prying it from different sides. Behind it there is a bolt. It holds a transparent plastic rim, which must also be removed.

Next we will open access to the screw, which is hidden in the depth of the housing. Unscrew it.

Let’s take off a wheel of temperature adjustment and we see the screw, which at first glance is not real to get to. To unscrew it you will have to remove the power indicator.

On the handle get rid of the two screws that hold the neon lamp (power indicator). After you take out indicator light, take out steam button. Now we have access to the screw which is hard to reach.

disassemble, braun, iron

At the back of the iron Braun TS345 unscrew the two screws holding the tank. The main thing is not to mix it up because there are four screws and they are all next to each other.

The upper part of the iron will be removed as soon as we will disconnect the water hose from the metal rod. Do not touch that rod, it must stay on the bottom, on the bottom of the sole.

After all the screws have been unscrewed and the hose has been disconnected, we separate the iron into two halves. On the bottom we will see the last 3 screws of this design. These screws may not give up so easily)

They are screwed into the sole of the iron and a long exposure to temperature can cause their threads to seize up. In practice there were cases when the flat broke when trying to unscrew them. The left top screw in this iron refused to unscrew. We didn’t use force, it’s been there, we poured some VD-40 on it and waited for 5-10 minutes. After a while it unscrewed as if nothing had happened.

And here is the culprit of failure. A ceramic thermal fuse, which also has two pairs of contacts and is capable of burning. We checked the thermostat, no complaints.

It’s not an easy part to replace. Wires to it are soldered by spot welding. In our service center in such cases we cut off wires and solder a new part with refractory solder. You can also solder to a normal one, the temperature at the joint is not up to the melting point of the solder. But we still recommend refractory solder.

Completing the repair of your Braun TS345 iron.

After disassembly and determining the cause of the fault, we agree on the cost of fixing it with the customer. If the price is satisfactory, we install the new part.

If the price or time is not acceptable for our customer, we put the iron back together and return it to the original state without charging a diagnosis fee. You can get acquainted with the price list of our service center in the section of repair of irons.

How to disassemble a braun texstyle 5 iron

The Braun SI 6595 FreeStyle iron is the best type. This model has an automatic shutdown function (when not moving in a vertical or horizontal position).

So this is a very convenient and necessary thing, but this very block of automatics is mainly the cause of the iron’s failure. The main symptoms are that at first the iron shuts off when ironing, you need to tap on the body or shake it vigorously. Then it wouldn’t turn on at all and the light would just blink.

The reason for this. sticking motion sensor, possibly even burned contacts relay or failure of elements of the circuit board.

disassemble, braun, iron

The first solution is to take the iron to a service center.I should note that the replacement of this unit will cost you at least half the cost of the iron, probably more. If the iron has been in use for more than one year, it is quite expensive, considering that the other parts (rubber cuffs, etc.

) are also worn out and there is no telling how long the iron will last. But the iron itself, if you remove the automation unit will work fine, turn off by temperature and steam, except for the auto shutoff function.

If you are willing to sacrifice that, then here are the instructions on how to do it.

The same model, only BRAUN TexStyle 540 does not have this function (not 100%. I judge from the Internet). If you decide to do the repair yourself you should understand what you are doing, because the safety of using this model decreases.

So let’s disassemble (repair) the Braun 540 SI 6595 FreeStyle iron

First remove the back cover by unscrewing the two screws.

Then we need to remove the white plate, which goes from the back of the iron to the regulator. Approximately on 3-4 centimeters from back wall we undermine with a screwdriver (we shall see there a groove) and it is easily removed.

Remove the temperature control knob (pry it off with a slotted screwdriver, not too hard). WARNING! There is a spring there (for the ratchet), don’t lose it when you turn the iron.

Now we can see all stuff from behind.

Next, we need to remove the control unit and the connector to the heating element (it is covered with a white cap, which, in fact, holds the control unit. It is necessary to make a small effort, pull the heater connector back). Т.к. The wires of the power cable are soldered in the block, then, after you have pulled the connector out of place, they will be pulled out, too. There is no need to loosen the screws that hold the power cable.

Now you need to remove the indicator together with the power cable. If you look inside, the transparent case of the indicator is held by two pawls from the case of the iron. Release the latches one by one (to do this, press them in the depth with a long thin screwdriver) and pull back the indicator. Now we can take out all the electronic stuffing.

The case, in principle, can be further disassembled for further reference (remove the front splash guard, remove the tube and unscrew the screw TORX T20, then behind the iron there are two catches housing, release them and the plastic housing is removed completely from the bottom of the iron). You don’t have to disassemble it.

Now, why does it stop working? If you look at the control box (filled with compound), you can see a white parallelepiped on the left (if you look from behind the iron). That’s what you need to open it up.

Noodle the compound and see that there at the ends of the lid is held by protrusions. Inside will be a roller, which should move freely on the contact slides. It is necessary to remember its position after opening it.

Then I cleaned it and the contacts inside the case (that’s a horizontal position sensor).

When I disassembled it, it turned out that the whole helix was covered with some kind of paraffin and the contacts were dirty. The most important thing is its MOTION in the case. After that I put everything back and reassembled everything and the iron went on working. This is how I did it.

It took me a long time, a few hours. If it is not the sensor, but the unit, it is easier to put a new one in the repair. Although I went further (cleaned all the compound), I found a chip, a relay, a few transistors, etc.e and t.п.

So it is better not to poke the compound further, except near the sensor.

This method. poking the compound. doesn’t work for everyone, not always. There are easier ways

Simple tips for repairing a brown iron

If your Braun iron has fallen into disrepair and does not want to heat up, or steam does not come out of the holes for some reason, it does not mean that you need to urgently carry it to repair. Often you can repair it with your own hands, this will help you save about half the cost of the device and, as a bonus, self-affirmation. Maybe you can find out the causes of iron breakage yourself. And how to do it, our article will tell you.

The iron is simple enough, and if you have at least a basic understanding of technology, you can easily repair it. The main thing is to have patience and keep this master class in front of you so you don’t miss anything important. The normal cause of the iron soleplate being cold is the lack of current in any of the electrical circuits of the iron.

Brown Freestyle model has a function of automatic iron shutdown, if the iron is not moving, which is a special block, this is its peculiarity. And, like any technical contrivance, it is often the cause of failure. According to statistics, the first place in repairs is the scale on the sole of steamers, and the second place is the fault of the position protection module. But to know where to look for it, you need to get acquainted with the circuit diagram of your iron.

The electrical diagram of the iron

The circuit diagram of an iron with a steamer is standard, and does not differ much from the diagram of a simple electric iron without the steam function.

In the diagram, the letters SK indicate the sensor that determines the position (horizontal, vertical).

KM is the relay that closes/opens the circuit.

Between them there may be a light to indicate the operation of the iron.

The red and blue numbers indicate the points to check the current in the circuit when the iron is cold and hot. Connect one probe of the multimeter to the plug, and the second probe in series probe the main components of the circuit in search of the lack of voltage.

Warning! The KM relay is normally open: if the iron is on, the contacts close the circuit and energize the iron.

How to disassemble your Brown iron and fix it with your own hands

If your iron Braun came into disrepair and does not want to heat, or from the holes for some reason does not come out steam, it does not mean that we must urgently carry it for repair.

Often you can repair it with your own hands, this will help you save about half the cost of the appliance and, as a bonus, self-repair. Maybe you can find out the causes of iron breakage on your own.

And how to do it, our article will tell you.

Features of Braun irons

An iron is quite simple and if you have at least a basic understanding of technology, you can easily repair it. The main thing is to have patience and keep this master class in front of you so you don’t miss anything important. The reason the iron soleplate stays cold is usually because there is no current in any part of the iron’s electrical circuit.

Brown Freestyle model has a function of automatic iron shutdown, if the iron is not moving, for which a special block is responsible, this is its peculiarity.

And, as any technical trick, it is often the cause of failure. Statistically, the first most common repair is limescale on the sole of the steamers, and the second most common repair is a malfunction in the position protection module.

But to know where to look for it, you need to get acquainted with the circuit diagram of your iron.

wiring diagram of the iron

  • The circuit diagram of an iron with a steamer is standard and does not differ much from that of a simple electric iron without the steam function.
  • The SK on the diagram shows the sensor that determines the position (horizontal, vertical).
  • KM is a relay that closes/opens the circuit.
  • There may be a light bulb in between to indicate the iron’s operation.

The red and blue digits indicate the points to check the current in the circuit when the iron is cold and hot.

Connect one probe of the multimeter to the plug and use the other to test the circuit’s major components in sequence, looking for the absence of voltage.

Attention! The KM relay is normally open: if the iron is on, the contacts close the circuit and supply voltage to the heating element.

How to take it apart

Modern irons have a beautiful appearance, and it is not easy to find where the screws are located in them. Even if you find an example of the location of the fasteners in the iron on the internet, it does not mean that in your version they will be in the same places.

Even in the same model of different years of release the places of fastenings can differ. The functionality of most steam irons is similar and differs only in the location and shape of this or that part. The figure below shows the general construction of an iron with a sprinkler and a steam generator.

Familiarize yourself so you know where to look for which item in the upcoming disassembly.

Here will be described the tricks with which you can disassemble a Braun iron with your own hands, without having to go to the repair. Finding out where the bolts are hidden is not enough, you still need to get to them.

The first thing you need to do in order to disassemble it is to have the tools:

  • Pressers (wooden wedges) for the lid and latches;
  • magnifying glass;
  • a flashlight (preferably a LED flashlight);
  • alcohol and a stack of cloth;
  • nail file and eraser.

All of these gadgets will help you disassemble the brown freestyle iron yourself. The sequence of disassembly will be as follows:

  • Remove the knob of the thermostat;
  • Remove the back cover;
  • Remove the contact plate;
  • remove the top cover;
  • free the soleplate.

As a result, we’ll have access to every part of the machine, which is what we wanted. Naturally, during the disassembly of each model there will be different additions to the process. Now you will learn the basic method of disassembling a Braun iron to get the basic skills.

Back cover

This is probably the most convenient part to remove. к. it is fastened with easily visible screws. The fact that almost all other fixtures will be hidden from your eyes in the most unexpected places and covered with plugs. But that’s lyric. Back to disassembly.

Ремонт и разборка утюга Braun (чистка подошвы)

Unscrew the two screws. They are unusual, with a pin in the center, so take a special screwdriver with a hole in the middle. If you don’t have a screwdriver, don’t give up.

Take pliers or side cutters and unscrew the screw. The lid is loose! Take it off and set it aside. Let’s move on.

The top decorative plug

The top cover can be removed by pressing on the front right and left with a flathead screwdriver as shown in the pictures below. There are plastic catches hiding on which you should press to make the plug come off. Insert a flathead screwdriver or a narrow knife about 1 cm deep.

Lift the latches and try to pry it up. Two more fasteners are in the back of the plug, on the right and left. We put a screwdriver vertically and lightly tap on it, trying to wedge it between the ball lock of the cord and the plug itself. Pressing down on the latches, prying them up. That’s all, now you can take it off.

Cover of fill up port

It’s pretty easy to remove. Use your fingers to pry right and left and pull it up. Pull it to the side.

Ball stopper

A wire holder is attached to the electronic control box. All this also comes out together. They are not fastened with bolts, so we are looking for fasteners. Carefully lift them, being careful not to break them.

Temperature regulator

To remove it, pry to the right and left of the wheel with a screwdriver, pull it up and it will come out. Turn the iron upside down and shake it gently to release the ratchet spring. it is an important part, so don’t lose it.

The sprayer

To pull out the atomizer you need to pry it up with a flathead screwdriver. The resulting recess hides the nose fixing screw.

Fixing screw

This fastener you will probably have a hexagonal. It can be easily unscrewed with an ordinary flat screwdriver in several steps (if you have no screwdriver in your arsenal). It attaches the bottom part of the iron to the lid. Once you take it out, you can separate the bottom from the top.

The power cord

Failure of the power cord is a fairly common type of failure. With this damage the iron can not turn on at all or work intermittently, may poorly heat the soleplate. The cord can bend, twist, in some places of the bend insulation is damaged, some wires can be frayed completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, whether it is the cause or not. Anyway all the places with damaged insulation have to be insulated.

If any damage occurs, any iron repair begins with checking the cord. To accurately determine if it is in normal condition or not, you need to test it. All you need to do is remove the back cover. The terminal block, to which the cord is connected, will become accessible. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the test mode, press one of the pins of the plug, and touch one of the wires on the strip with the other pins. The multimeter should make a squeaking sound when you touch the “right” wire. This means that the wire is intact.

Check the integrity of the power cord

The color of insulation of conductors can be any, but the yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it should be checked by placing a probe on the small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Now, one of these two wires should be ringing with the pin to which you are holding the multimeter probe. Repeat the same operation with the other pin.

To be absolutely sure that the cord is in good condition, it should be crumpled/twisted during the test run. Especially in places where there are problems with the insulation. If the squeak is interrupted by this action. it is better to replace the cord. It also must be replaced if one or both pins “do not ring”. You might be lucky and you will not need further repair of the iron.

Checking heater integrity

Sometimes the heating element fails because of a broken coil enclosed in a metal tube. How to check the integrity of the heating element in this case? Again with the help of a multimeter! To do this, put the device in resistance measurement mode and touch the probe to the outputs of the heater. A broken coil is indicated by an infinite resistance reading, which is indicated on the tester by a one or the infinity symbol (the figure eight lying on its side).

If a short circuit or a broken coil is detected inside the tubular electric heater element, it must be replaced as a matter of urgency. only then will the equipment continue to work. Also during the checks it is recommended not to neglect the TENS sore, which allows to find out the dangerous electric breakdown on the case.

The main components of an iron and the tasks they perform

The main components

  • The electric wire which is connected to the terminal block.
  • The thermostat, which is responsible for regulating the temperature.
  • The heating element.
  • Plate with holes for steam exhaust.
  • Water system that includes boiler, feed keys, tubes, nozzle, etc.

How the device works

  • Concealed heating element heats the iron’s metal soleplate when the device is plugged in.
  • The degree of heating is adjusted by a bimetallic plate. When the temperature rises, it deforms and opens the contacts. The thermostat determines the intensity of heating.
  • When the feed button is pressed, the water poured into the boiler is diverted to the soleplate in drops, comes into contact with the heated surface there and forms steam.

Some models of famous manufacturers are equipped with automatic shutdown board, intelligent control system, built-in boiler scale cartridge and other components.

Cleaning the head of an electric shaver

Modern electric shavers form two extensive classes:

The first are named for the blades that rotate the electric motor rotors. Before we look at repairing your electric shaver yourself, let’s describe the cleaning process. Most cases when the device refuses to form beards means that the working head is dirty. The electric razor kit is supplemented with a brush, a special spray. We learn the purpose of things.

Cleaning the rotary electric shaver

The head of the electric shaver lasts no longer than 1 year. After the count: it’s time to replace. Every three weeks it is recommended to clean the unit. In the case of a rotary electric shaver, start with the external screens. Gently brush through each with a circular brush, sweeping out hair clippings.

After the blade assembly is detached from the body of the shaver. The assembly is disassembled into its component parts. From the plastic frame takes out the holder with knives, nets. Each pair of cutting surfaces is separated by two parts. Now the table is dotted:

Each blade is shaped like a flanged sleeve. A piece of thick-wall tube, on one end there is a washer of two or three times the diameter. On the area formed with a hole in the middle there are beveled protrusions with cutting surfaces. Be careful, even when blunt, the electric razor blades can be harmful to your health. Speaking of mesh models. Be careful with the blades. Everyone has seen the wire. Round parts with slits in the circle, slipping on the skin when shaving.

Sweep with a brush each element of the head of the electric shaver, if the set is supplied with spray, treat the blades and screens, make a second cleaning. It remains to reassemble the assemblies by putting back.

Disassemble the electric shaver, following the above recommendations, reassemble. Doesn’t help, time to buy a new shaver head.

Cleaning the Electric Grid Shaver

Don’t bother with the brush. Do not. Even a soft touch from the bristles can damage the regular shape of the grid. The electric razor works worse, the blades may be blocked. Straighten the mesh at home without harming it is difficult. Electric razor repair shops will be useless assistants.

First. If your razor is washable, you should clean it after each use. Keep one thing in mind. An electric razor is good after purchase for the first 3 to 5 treatments. Then bacteria begin to multiply in the head, each use brings irritation to the skin, which are powerless to remove special products for personal hygiene. Try to find a disinfectant spray instead, to treat the blades before washing. Naturally, the product must be intended for this purpose. Try holding the knives under a UV lamp to block bacterial growth.

For other types of electric mesh shavers, clean every few procedures, without the use of water. To this end, the mesh is carefully removed. Remove any hair remnants by blowing a large amount of air out

Try, having removed the head, tap the end table gently. Partially rid the mesh of the electric razor of dirt

The blade assembly is brushed on. If there is aerosol in the set use it for additional cleaning of the device.

Similar to the previous case, try out the electric mesh shaver after assembly. The effect is unsatisfactory. it is time to buy a new head.

Braun Iron Repair with your own hands

Details: braun iron repair with his own hands from the real master for the site olenord.com.

The Braun SI 6595 FreeStyle iron has proven itself. This model has an automatic shutdown function (when not moving in vertical or horizontal position). So, this is a very convenient and necessary thing, but it is this automation unit that is mainly the cause of the iron’s failure. The main symptoms. at first the iron shuts off when ironing, you need to tap on the body or shake it hard. Then it doesn’t turn on at all, the indicator light just blinks. The cause of the problem is a sticking motion sensor, possibly more burned relay contacts or defective elements on the automation board.

The first solution is to take the iron to the service center.I should note that the replacement of this block will cost you at least half the cost of the iron, probably more. If the iron has been in use for more than a year. it’s quite an expensive treat, considering that the other parts (rubber cuffs, etc.) are also worn out, and there is no need to repair them.The iron will not wear out either and you can’t be sure how long it will last. But the iron itself, if you remove the automation unit, will work fine, turn off by temperature and steam, except for the auto-off function. If you are ready to sacrifice that then here is the instruction on how to do it.

The same model only the BRAUN TexStyle 540 does not have this feature (not 100%. I checked on the internet). Making the decision to do the repair yourself you must understand what you are doing, because the safety of using this model decreases.

So let’s disassemble (repair) the Braun 540 SI 6595 FreeStyle iron

First remove the back cover by unscrewing the two screws.

Then you need to remove the white cover that goes from the back of the iron to the regulator. Approximately 3-4 centimeters from the back wall we undermine with a screwdriver (we’ll see there a slot) and it is easily removable. Temperature regulator knob is removed (you just have to pry it up with a slotted screwdriver, not too hard). WARNING! There is a spring there (for the ratchet), don’t lose it when you turn the iron. Now we can see all the stuff on the back.

Next, remove the control unit and the connector to the heating element (it is closed with a white cap, which, in fact, and holds the control unit. We will have to put a little effort, pull the heater connector back). Т.к. The wires of the power cable are soldered in the block, then after you have pulled the connector a little bit, they will pull out too. There is no need to loosen the screws that hold the power cable.

Now it is necessary to remove the indicator together with power cable. If you look inside, the transparent body of the indicator is held by two pawls from the iron body. Let’s free the pawls one by one (to do this, press them in the depth with a long thin screwdriver) and pull back the indicator. Now you can take out all the electronic stuffing.

The case, in principle, can be further disassembled, for further familiarization (it is necessary to remove the splashguard in front, remove the tube and unscrew a TORX T20 self-tapping screw, then behind the iron there are 2 case latches, release them and the plastic case is removed completely from the soleplate of the iron). You don’t have to disassemble it.

Now why does it turn off? If you look at the control unit (filled with compound), you will see a white parallelepiped on the left (if you look at the back of the iron). This is what you need to open it up. Poke around the compound and see that there are protrusions on the ends of the lid. There will be a roller inside, which should move freely on the contact slides. I need to remember its position after opening it. Then clean it and the contacts inside the housing (this is the horizontal position sensor).

When I took it apart, it turned out that the entire roller was covered in some kind of paraffin and the contacts were contaminated. The most important thing is that it moves in the housing. After that I put everything back, reassembled it and the iron went on working. This is how I did it. I was messing around with it for a long time, a few hours. If the matter is not in the sensor but in the unit, it is easier to put a new one in the repair. I went further though (cleaned all the compound), found a chip, relays, a few transistors, etc.e and t.п. So it is better not to poke the compound further, except near the sensor.

This method. picking up the compound. does not work for everyone and not always. There are easier ways

If the iron has stopped heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and multimeter, you can do it. So, as many different firms manufacture them, they differ slightly, in shape, speed of heating, quality of parts, etc.

Since there are so many different companies making irons, they differ slightly in shape, heating speed, quality of parts, etc.д. But the overall device remains the same. Yes, it does:

  • The soleplate with a built-in heating element. If there is a function of the steamer, the soleplate has a certain number of holes for the steam output.
  • The thermostat with a knob, which allows you to set the desired temperature of the soleplate heating.
  • Capacity / reservoir for water, which is used in steaming.
  • There is a nozzle for splashing water, forced steam. There is also a steam intensity regulator. It is used to set the frequency of automatic evaporating water.
  • The iron is connected to the mains with the electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block, located in the back under the plastic cover.

Braun iron repair with your own hands

For details: braun iron repair with his own hands from the real masters for the site olenord.com.

Braun iron SI 6595 FreeStyle has proven to be excellent. This model has an automatic shut off function (when not moving in a vertical or horizontal position). So, this is a very handy and necessary thing, but it is this block of automation, mainly, and the cause of the malfunction of the iron. The main symptoms. first the iron turns off when ironing, requires tapping on the body or vigorous shaking. Then it does not turn on at all, the indicator light just blinks. The cause of this is sticking of the motion sensor, possibly burning of the relay contacts or failure of the elements of the automation board.

The first solution is to take the shaver to a service center.I note that the replacement of this unit will cost at least half the cost of the iron, possibly more. If the iron has been in use for more than a year, it is quite an expensive treat, considering that the other parts (rubber cuffs, etc.) are also quite expensive.) are also worn out and you can never be sure how long the iron will last. But the iron itself, if you remove the automation unit, will work fine, shut off by temperature and steam, except for the auto-off function. If you’re willing to sacrifice that, then here are instructions on how to do it.

The same model, only the BRAUN TexStyle 540 does not have this function originally (not 100%. I judge by the information from the Internet). If you decide to do the repair yourself, you must understand what you are doing, because the safety of using this model decreases.

So, let’s begin the disassembly (repair) of the Braun 540 SI 6595 FreeStyle iron

First remove the back cover by unscrewing the two screws.

Then we need to remove the white plate that goes from the back of the iron to the regulator. At about 3-4 cm from the back wall we pry with a screwdriver (we’ll see there a slot) and it is easily removable. Remove the temperature regulator knob (you lift it with a slotted screwdriver, not too hard). WARNING! There is a spring there (for the ratchet), don’t lose it when you turn the iron. Now we can see all the hardware on the back.

Next, remove the control unit and the connector to the heating element (it is closed with a white cap, which, in fact, and is held by the control unit. You have to put a little effort, pull the heater connector back). Т.к. The wires of the power cable are soldered in the block, then after you have pulled the connector off a little, they will pull out, too. Unscrew the screws that hold the power cord is not necessary.

Now we have to take off the indicator together with the power cord. If you look inside, the transparent body of the indicator is held by two pawls from the body of the iron. We free the latches one by one (to do this, press them with a long thin screwdriver in the back) and pull out the indicator backwards. Now you can take out all the electronics.

The body, in principle, can be further disassembled, for further acquaintance (remove the front cover of the sprayer, remove the tube and unscrew the self-drilling screw TORX T20, then there are two pawls of the body behind the iron, release them and the plastic body is completely removed from the soleplate of the iron). But you don’t have to disassemble it.

Now why does it turn off? If you look at the control box (filled with compound), you will see a white parallelepiped on the left (if you look behind the iron). This is what you have to open. Poke around in the compound and see that there is a protrusion on the ends of the lid. Inside there will be a roller, which should move freely on the slides of the contact. You have to remember its position after opening it. Then clean it and the contacts inside the housing (this is the horizontal position sensor).

When I took it apart, it turned out that the entire roller was covered in some kind of wax and the contacts were contaminated. The most important thing is its CONNECTION in the case. After that I put it all back and reassembled it and the iron went on working. This is how I got it done. Took me a long time, a few hours. If it’s not the sensor, but the unit, it’s easier to put a new one in the repair. Although I dug further (cleaned all the compound), found a chip, relay, a few transistors, etc.e and t.п. So it is better not to poke the compound further, except near the sensor.

This way. poking around in the compound. not everyone and not always manages to. There are easier ways

If your iron has stopped heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter you will be fine. About how to repair the iron with his own hands and will tell in this article.

Since manufactured irons are very different companies, they vary a little. shape, heating rate, quality of parts, etc.д. But the basic construction is the same. Available:

  • A soleplate with a heating element built into it. If the iron has a steamer function, the soleplate has a number of holes for the steam to escape.
  • The thermostat with a knob, which allows you to set the desired temperature of the soleplate heating.
  • The reservoir/tank for water, which is used for steaming.
  • There is a nozzle for splashing water, forced steam output. There is also a steam intensity regulator. With its help the frequency of automatic feeding of vaporized water is set.
  • The iron is plugged in with the electric cord which is attached to the contact block at the back under the plastic cover.

Author

Kerariel

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