How to connect a heating battery in an apartment

Typical radiators connection schemes in a private house: Features of a single.pipe and two.pipe connection

I must say that electric heating is the most effective of all existing. Not only are the efficiency of boilers about 99%, so in addition they do not require chimneys and ventilation. Maintenance of units as such is practically absent, except that cleaning 1 time every 2-3 years. And most importantly: equipment and installation are very cheap, while the degree of automation can be any. The boiler just does not need your attention.

How pleasant the advantages of the electric boiler are, the main drawback is equally significant. the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi.tariff meter of electricity, it will not be possible to bypass this indicator of a wood.free heat generator. This is the fee for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second minus. the absence of the necessary electric power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can cross all thoughts about electric heating at once.

Preparatory work

The most crucial moment in the installation of the radiator is preparatory measures. The outcome of the replacement procedure depends on how correctly dismantled the battery and what tools are at hand.

The choice of radiators

The first thing to do is decide which radiator will be installed instead of the old. The choice is made on the basis of:

• appearance;
• pressure indicator in the heating system;
• chemical composition of the coolant;
• prices;
• the level of heat transfer;
• Heating time and t. D.

Advanced models of cast.iron batteries are particularly popular in recent years. Buyers highly value the ratio of the cost and quality of the device. But the choice can be made between steel, aluminum and biometric batteries.

Necessary tools and consumables

The installation of heating radiators is carried out in several stages. For each you will need the following tools:

• Two keys: wretched and divided;
• Apparatus for cutting metal pipes;
• KUPP for cutting threads or a dick with the holder of the desired circle;
• Polypropylene welding for pipes;
• Scissors or hacksaw for cutting polypropylene pipes;
• Level, pencil, ruler;
• Plumbing linen;
• Material for sealing joints;
• Cement solution.

From components during the installation process of the radiator, you will need:

• heating battery itself;
• Ball Valves;
• brackets for hanging the radiator;
• plugs;
• Maevsky cranes for air sustaining;
• Pipes: can be made of metal.plastic, polypropylene or steel;
• Accessories for installing pipes. tees, adapters, allotments and fittings.

Dismantling of old batteries

The procedure for dismantling the battery of the battery depends on the plan of further work. If you only need to replace the radiator, then twist the thread from the battery or resort to a grinding machine if the threaded joints are knocked down and do not function.

In the case when, together with the heating device, you need to replace the heating pipe, then cut the entire structure. The procedure is carried out at a distance of 15-20 cm from the flooring and ceiling.

Marking to the wall

Prepare the base by transferring the marking to the wall. For this:

• Out the place where you plan to place the battery with a pencil.
• Make a hole for holding brackets.
• Take the level and check the evenness of all lines.

At the last stage, you can glue foil (or other foil material) over the entire area of ​​the radiator to the wall. Thus, the heat transfer of the battery increases.

What is needed for installation?

For the correct independent installation of a heating radiator, the owner of the home requires special tools and some supplies. Type, size depend on the variety of the mounted heating battery, the connection methods, etc. D. But some elements are needed in any case.

Brackets

In some models of radiators, brackets are included. If it is absent, then the element is sold in almost every construction store.

The market presents many different fasteners in design, shape. All of them are inherent in high bearing capacity and transfer of the load from the weight of the radiator to the wall. The brackets can be fixed, equipped with an adjusting mechanism, different in length and height.

Maevsky crane or automatic air vent

At the time of heating (after the summer period) during the passage of the coolant through the system, the captured air enters the batteries. The formed air traffic jams partially block the passage of warm water in the upper collector of the radiator, t. e. Water will remain cooled.

Initially at the top of the heating device, classic water taps are mounted. Air discharge with their help is accompanied by a large volume of water. All new models of radiators include air vents or Maevsky crane. find out how to choose, install and lower the air.

• small size;
• It is screwed on one side of the upper distributor into a free hole;
• It can be mounted using a special adapter if the tap circumference differs from the size of the threaded entrance to the distributor;
• During installation, a plumbing seal is wound on the crane;
• Installation is impossible without a wrench, it helps to tighten the tap until it stops.

With the help of Maevsky crane, air is discharged, unscrewing the screw or handle. Turning the ring changes the direction of the air flow. It is believed that the air is dropped when a water stream appears.

• If the radiator is equipped with an automatic air vent, then the work has the principle of float.
• The float under air pressure begins to affect the nipple, which opens until the air plug is completely removed from the heating device.
• Buying batteries to purchase and mount it better in autonomous heating systems.
• The machine is quickly polluted and fails.

About how to properly steal the air and why it is necessary, it is told in

How to install a heating battery

There are two ways to install radiators for heating the premises. In the wall version of fastening, the battery is hung on the brackets. The shape and design of the supports for batteries can be different, the main thing is to be reliably fixed on the wall and withstand the weight of the heating device.

Fasteners for brackets are anchor bolts. They are used in concrete, brick walls or masonry from another material (slag blocks, foam blocks, etc.). There are supports that are simultaneously anchor bolts and brackets.

There are standards that determine the number of supports for sectional radiators. For cast-iron batteries, brackets are installed between every 6 and sections. In panel devices, the manufacturer provides for fasteners to the wall from the back side.

Rules for hindering heating devices

Heating products are installed strictly in certain places of the premises. this is:

• window sills;
• extended mediocrine distances;
• deaf walls in the corner rooms;
• bathrooms, pantries and other utility rooms, adjacent walls, which are external fences;
• Intersective sites of stairwells and lobby of entrances.

Installation dimensions of the heating device

The gaps between the radiator and the enclosing structures during installation of the device are based on the standard installation sizes.

In the photo letters indicate the installation dimensions. The table below indicates the limit values ​​of these parameters.

Installation of floor heating devices

It should be noted that along with wall devices, there are floor radiators. These are mainly high cast iron batteries with decorative decoration and low devices installed under panoramic windows.

In some cases, the legs of these products are attached to the floor to prevent their random shift.

Master Class. An example of installing a heating radiator with your own hands

Consider the algorithm of actions when connecting the battery to the heating system.

First, prepare and collect the heating radiator itself. Clean all threaded holes from factory lubricant, for which you can use a special cleaning agent and ruff.

Preparation of the radiator

Having finished processing, remove the remnants of the cleaner with a paper cloth. It is important that the holes turn out as clean and dry as possible.

The hole is wiped dry

Install adapters (in our example it is ½ and ¾ inch).

Adapter

Install the “American” from the crane to the adapter that you installed in advance. For twisting, use a special key for “Americans”. As a result, you will equip a couple of holes. the input and output (in the example they are located diagonally).

The “American” key for the “Americans” is set the key to “Americans”

On unnecessary holes that need to be closed, set the plugs.

Installation of a plug

Prepare the shanks (these are special thin tubes), cut them. Remove the internal chamfer in the shanks. Then feel the internal parts. it is important that the burrs are not felt there.

The tube (shank) is prepared for removing the internal chamfer

Put a nut on the tube, a brass spacer and elastic band (namely in this sequence). Then expand the tube with a special device, inserting it inward until it stops. After expansion, the tube will no longer be able to jump out of its place under the action of pressure during the operation of the heating system.

The expansion of the pipe

Put the elastic band and other parts to the expanded edge, attach the adapter.

Mark the place where the radiator will be installed on the wall, in accordance with the requirements described above. First, determine the center of the windowsill, measure 10 cm down. the battery mounts will be located at that level.

Marking

Draw a fishing line for a trimmer to install holders parallel to the windowsill at a distance of 10 cm. The holders themselves will be attached to dowels.

Drawing line of installation of holders

Another mount will be located 12 cm from the floor surface along the vertical central line.

Installation of the lower mount

Install the battery for mounts, align it in level.

Installation of a heating radiator

note! If necessary, you can slightly adjust the battery mounts.

Sovele on the wall of the place where the strokes will be located (in our example, pipe laying will be carried out inside the wall). Do this in all places where the pipes will be connected to the radiator.

Marking for future wall stroke

Carry out the stroke of the previously intended areas. Remove the battery to make it more convenient to carry out work.

Stroobilization

Prepare the tubes. Make a mark on which they will be cut off, as shown in the picture below.

How to blocked the battery

The answer to the question of how to disable the heating battery is extremely simple. it is enough to close one crane, leaving the second open. But what a crane overlap?

As we understand, water is supplied to the heating riser from below.

• The upper tap is closed, and the bottom is open. If repair work is carried out from the neighbors from below or in the basement, or on a branch that feeds the house, the coolant will merge, and your radiator will be devastated. If it is steel or cast.iron, this will provoke corrosion.
• The lower tap is closed and the upper is open. Regardless of any repairs, the radiator will be filled.

So, we learned how to block the battery for the summer season: for this, close only the bottom ball crane.

Upon the onset of cold weather, follow the ads at the entrance about the beginning of the heating season. Then redraw both ball valves so that the garbage does not get into the radiator. let it go through the bypass. Battery rupture with closed cranes in this case does not threaten you-in one or two days a sufficient pressure will not be able to form inside the radiator. The apartment during this time also does not have time to freeze, especially, a small heating of the room will be from the riser.

How to enable the heating battery? There is nothing complicated. just open both ball valves, and the coolant will begin normal circulation through the on the turned on the radiator.

On the first day of turning on heating, when the murmur of water in the system is heard, do not rush to open ball valves. The next day you can open them using the Maevsky crane to produce air

Attention! If you live on the top floor, you must have an air vent on the radiator. This will avoid the formation of air plugs, due to which the heating device does not perform its functions

Knowing how to close the heating battery, you can decide how to prepare for the new heating season in the summer.

Work on installing bypas and ball valves should be done by professionals with the involvement of a plumbing that will block the water in the riser. Please note that welding and appropriate equipment will be required.

Emergency replacement of heating batteries

Ball crashes and bypass is an opportunity:

• ensure the safety of their batteries from corrosion and pollution;
• Do not suffer from the heat with sharp warming during the heating period;
• ensure safety in case of emergency. if the radiator fails, it can be turned off from the system, while the neighbors will not suffer from the flood or the lack of heat;
• At any convenient time, replace the old radiator yourself with a new one;
• Remove batteries for washing or coloring.
• successfully use modern radiators with a thermostat without interfering with neighbors.

A competent approach to the organization of apartment heating is concern for comfort and security.

What you need for the effective operation of batteries

An effective heating system is able to save money on fuel payment. Therefore, while engaged in its design, you should make a balanced decisions. After all, sometimes the advice of a neighbor in a summer house or a friend recommends such a system as his, does not fit at all.

It happens that there is no time to deal with these issues yourself. In this case, it is better to contact professionals working in this area from 5 years old and having grateful reviews.

Correct connection is guaranteed to provide comfortable accommodation in the house of all family members. After all, when choosing a scheme, you need to take into account a number of features of your home

Having decided to independently connect heating radiators, it must be borne in mind that the following indicators have a direct effect on their effectiveness:

The choice of heating devices is amazing the imagination of an inexperienced consumer. Among the sentences are wall.mounted batteries from various materials, floor and skirting convectors. All of them have a different shape, size, level of heat transfer, type of connection. These characteristics should be taken into account when installing heating devices in the system.

Among the models of heating devices presented on the market, it is better to choose, focusing on the material and thermal power indicated by the manufacturer

For each room, the number of radiators and their size will differ. It all depends on the area of ​​the room, the level of insulation of the external walls of the building, the connection circuit, the thermal power specified by the manufacturer in the product passport.

The location of the batteries is under the window, between the windows located at a fairly long distance from each other, along the deaf wall or in the corner of the room, in the hallway, pantry, bathroom, in the entrances of apartment buildings.

Depending on the place and method of installation of the heating device, there will be different heat losses. The most unsuccessful option is the radiator completely closed by the screen

Between the wall and the heating device, it is recommended to install a heat.refracting screen. It can be made with your own hands, using for this one of the materials reflecting the heat. foam, isopan or the other foil analogue. Also, you should adhere to such basic rules for mounting the battery under the window:

• All radiators in one room are located at the same level;
• ribs of convectors in an upright position;
• The center of heating equipment coincides with the center of the window or is 2 cm to the right (to the left);
• battery length of at least 75% of the length of the window itself;
• the distance to the windowsill is at least 5 cm, to the floor. not less than 6 cm. The optimal distance is 10-12 cm.

The level of heat transfer of instruments and heat loss in the house depends on the correct connection of radiators to the heating system.

Having withstand the basic norms for the placement of radiators, you can prevent the penetration of cold into the room through the window as much as possible

It happens that the owner of the dwelling is guided by the advice of a friend, but the result is not at all as expected. Everything is done like him, but only batteries do not want to warm. So the selected connection scheme did not fit specifically for this house, the area of ​​the premises, thermal capacity of heating devices were not taken into account, or annoying errors were made during installation.

Approximate sequence of installation of a heating radiator

To illuminate all possible options for installing heating radiators on the scale of one publication is simply impossible. Therefore, an example of the installation of aluminum or bimetallic sectional batteries widespread in our time will be briefly considered. In principle, with all others the sequence will be approximately the same, and the necessary nuances are necessarily indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions attached to the product.

What is required to connect the heating radiator

For installation of the radiator, you will need to purchase a number of components:

• Any section of the radiator of such types has on the collector the internal thread of G1 (1 inch), and on the left is the left thread, and on the right side. the right. Such a oncoming direction of turns is necessary for assembling sections to a single battery using nipples.

This means that adapters are needed that would allow us to switch to ordinary right.sided threads most often used to eyelid sizes. ½ or ¾ inch. These adapters are often called footballs, and in addition, you can find the name “Passing Traffic”. All this is one and the same.

Such adapters (freezes) will require four pieces. two left and right

The internal connecting diameter of the adapters is selected depending on the pipes used for eyeliner.

• As the connection circulations given above, in most cases only two inputs are used. So, the remaining two will need to be drowned out. To do this, you can use ordinary plugs with an external thread corresponding to the selected adapter.

Instead of such a “set”. a foot plug, a regular deaf traffic jam with an appropriate left or right thread 1G can be used.

• Two plugs usually do not put such radiators. It is much more reasonable on the upper manifold instead of the cork to mount the Maevsky crane. a simple device that will allow the unprofitable coolant when filling the system, before seasonal starting or simply, from time to time during operation, release air accumulated in the battery.

If the option of a double.sided lower connection is selected, then the maevsky crane is usually diagonally from the feed pipe.

The key necessary for the release of air is attached to such a crane. This is done just for safety. so that the nobody “playful handles” could not calmly open the crane and call the flood in the apartment.

• All of the above components can be purchased separately, however, the finished sets are widely represented in stores. They include a complete set of passing plugs (two pairs), one plug and a maevsky crane with the attached key. In addition, often the brackets for the suspension of the radiator on the wall are also included in such a set (optimally, with medium sizes of the battery, up to 10 sections. three brackets). Such sets are sold for pipes and ½ and ¾ inch.
• That’s not all. If you do everything according to the mind, that is, provide for the ability to turn off the radiator from the system, for example, for its prevention, repair, replacement, it is necessary to purchase two taps. ordinary ball. And it is best that the taps are immediately equipped with a coupling connection with the united nut “American”-this will extremely simplify subsequent installation work.

A fitting with a pitch nut will be packed in a radiator footer, a crane on a pipe of eyeliner, and the knot will no longer be difficult.

If the features of the heating system predispose to the installation of adjusting devices (for example, excessive thermal power of the central heating system or the need for accurate adjustments in the autonomous system), then instead of ordinary ball valves, other devices can be purchased.

So, it is recommended to install a thermal valve on the feed pipe, which can also be supplemented with a thermostatic head. They are produced in direct and angular design. the choice depends on the features of the eyeliner to the radiator.

• To achieve accurate balancing and maximum heat transfer from the radiator, adjusting the valve at the output. In order to ensure the preservation of the settings made, it makes sense for these purposes to purchase the so-called block frame, from which the adjusting screw (under the screwdriver or under the hexagon) is covered with a plug-so that, for example, the child could not accidentally knock down the exhibited position.

As can be seen in the illustrations, the valves and the adjusting valves are in the same way equipped with a fitting with a detachable connection, that is their installation. it does not differ from the tap installation mentioned above. As a rule, such valves and valves can completely overlap the pipe, and the need for additional ball valves disappears.

By the way, again, there is an opportunity to purchase a ready.made thermostatic set of the desired diameter and form of execution. It usually includes a thermal valve, a balancing valve and a thermostatic head.

Thermostatic kit for the heating radiator

It is needed for it and how the temperature controller of the heating radiator works? The lack of heat in the premises is an unpleasant situation, but also excessive heat from hot radiators is also an extremely negative phenomenon. To avoid this, it is recommended to supplement the system with thermal controllers for heating radiators

Nothing extraordinary from the tools. it will not be required

The tools necessary for connecting are a standard plumbing set: claws or divorce keys, bags and sealing paste for winding threaded joints. To hang the radiator on the wall you need a peorator, the construction level for marking and control of the installation, roulette or square, marker or pencil. Well, the eyeliner of the pipes to their connection point with ball valves or valves of thermostatic regulation is already a separate story that goes beyond the consideration of this article. A lot of options are possible here with the type of pipe laying (open or hidden in walls or floor), and by technology. whether the steel pipes of VGP, polypropylene, metal.plastic or others will be used. it all depends on the skills and preferences of the home master.

Varieties of connection of radiators

The main methods of connecting devices of heating systems are several types:

Side connection

Connection from the end of the device. feed and return are on one side of the radiator. This is the most common and effective method of connecting, it allows you to remove the maximum amount of heat and use completely heat transfer of the radiator. As a rule, the feed is on top, and the return from below. When using a special headset, it is possible to connect from the bottom. this allows you to hide pipelines as much as possible, but reduces the heat transfer of the radiator by 20. 30%.

Diagonal connection

Diagonal connection of the radiator. the feed is on one side of the device from above, the return on the other side below. This type of connection is used in cases where the length of the sectional radiator exceeds 12 sections, and a panel 1200 mm. When installing long radiators with a side connection, there is an uneven heating of the radiator surface in the most remote part of the part. So that the radiator warms up evenly, the diagonal connection is used.

Lower connection

Connection from the bottom of the device. feed and return are located at the bottom of the radiator. This connection is used for the most hidden installation of pipelines. When installing a sectional heating device and connecting it in the lower way, the supply pipeline is suitable on one side of the radiator, and the reverse on the other side of the lower pipe. However, the efficiency of heat transfer of radiators with this scheme is reduced by 15-20%.

In the case when the lower connection is used for a steel panel radiator, then all the pipes on the radiator are in the lower end. The design of the radiator itself is made in such a way that the feed enters the collector first to the upper part, and then the return is assembled in the lower collector of the radiator, thereby the heat transfer of the radiator does not decrease.