Home Article How to clean the boiler Electrolux magnum

How to clean the boiler Electrolux magnum

Top remedies and filters for boiler descaling

Special maintenance is necessary to maintain the working condition and extend the life of the heating equipment. Cleaning of the boiler from scale at home is done by one’s own hands, or use the help of specialists.

An alternative solution. water treatment, which eliminates the causes of calcium deposits. Let’s consider these technologies in more detail to choose the best option.

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Profile manufacturers produce different types of heaters in this category:

In any case provides for contact of liquid with the hot work surface, which is gradually covered with limescale. Solids form from dissolved hardness salts as the temperature rises.

Porous layer is characterized by low thermal conductivity, so provokes the following negative manifestations:

slow down to the set temperature;

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errors in operation of control and monitoring equipment.

The limescale process is greatly accelerated at temperatures above 60°C, even at a hardness level well below the sanitary standard of 7 °F.

This means that the cleaning of the boiler heating elements should be performed quite often. Experienced specialists recommend that you regularly monitor the condition of the heating elements to organize the timely removal of accumulated deposits.

Calcium porous layer is destroyed with an acid solution. For a correct reproduction of the technology is recommended to view thematic video of cleaning the boiler heating elements from scale with their own hands. Relevant material can be found by searching online with a specific brand of equipment in the query.

A typical algorithm of action is given in the following list:

fill the working tank and shut off the supply from the main pipe;

They heat the water to the maximum, pour the acid solution;

Visually control the process of destruction of calcium deposits;

after cleaning perform flushing (2-3 times) with increasing the temperature to 40°C.

Instead of a chemical agent, you can apply a mechanical method of cleaning the boiler of indirect heating or other equipment of the category under consideration. In this case, use wooden scrapers and similar tools that will not damage elements of the structure.

To clean the boiler from the scale with citric acid, it is necessary to prepare a solution in the proportion of 20 g of crystals per liter of water. The amount of reagent is calculated taking into account the working volume. The duration of treatment can exceed several days with a thick layer of solid scale. The higher the temperature, the faster the calcium decomposition process.

When choosing table vinegar (9%) solution with water is created in the ratio of 1 to 10. The treatment is carried out according to the above algorithm. For one liter of water take 13 ml of the reagent, if a more concentrated essence (70%) is used.

Specialized products with this popular generic name come in a variety of versions. About 30-40% of the composition is sulfamic, oxalic or other acid.

Add the auxiliary components:

Dosage and other information for the correct application of a certain agent can be found in the accompanying documentation.

Limescale protection is used instead of complicated decalcification procedures. Studying samples of specialized equipment will help you choose the best option.

In the appropriate category, this manufacturer offers line filters with polymer and steel housings. It is recommended to install a polypropylene module to trap large mechanical impurities.

A higher level of cleaning is provided by a combined cartridge with a proprietary filler Aqualen. In this device created two working layers. with fiber and activated carbon. The working area does not let even individual dissolved chemical compounds, eliminating unpleasant flavors and odors.

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If you choose this filter even for the basic model will have to pay more. from 31 thousand. However, such an investment is justified by several features:

When to clean the water heater?

Water heaters are divided into flow-through and storage. The first ones work directly through a mixer. Water is not heated above 50 degrees, respectively, the likelihood of scaling is minimal. Scaling in the boiler can appear after 3-5 years, and will not affect the operation of the heater itself.

The second, storage systems, include a tank of 10 to 300 liters, a heating element and a temperature sensor. Due to the fact that the internal parts are constantly in the water, they are most susceptible to limescale.

Before exploring methods of cleaning, you need to figure out at what point it is time to do the boiler flushing. There are several signs to look out for:

  • The water has acquired a yellow tint, there is an unpleasant smell.
  • It takes longer to heat the water.
  • The boiler does not switch itself off, power consumption increases.
  • A striking indicator is the contamination of plumbing fixtures, white plaque on the faucets.
  • An unusual noise occurs (scale deposits scratch the walls of the tube in the boiler).
  • The boiler is not heating water to the correct temperature.

If none of these symptoms is observed, then there is no reason to worry. But even in this case, experts recommend preventive cleaning of the water heater at least once every few years. If any of the above points are detected, you should immediately begin the process of cleaning.

Methods of cleaning the water heating device

Depending on the hardness of the water, the water heater collects lime deposits, the very scale. First the build-up covers the TEN. the main heating device, and then the walls of the boiler itself.

Boiler is the most sealed construction possible. To understand which method of cleaning is most effective, you need to visually assess how large the outer holes, and whether it will be possible to provide access to the water heater.

Warning. Before you begin cleaning your boiler, it is important to disconnect it from the power supply.


To use the mechanical cleaning method, you need to remove the equipment. Cleaning the water heater and all internal cavities without disassembly is impossible.

You will need the following tools. wrench set, pliers, screwdrivers, metal brush, plastic or wooden scraper.

Here are step by step instructions on how to prepare the boiler for cleaning:

After disconnecting from the socket, shut off the water supply taps, unplug the pipe connections.

Start draining the tank: connect the hose to the faucet and lead it into the toilet/bathtub. The process of emptying the boiler takes 15-20 minutes.

Begin disassembly. Unscrew all retaining nuts and self-tapping screws. Remove the contacts that clamp the power wires. Take the boiler off the wall and turn it upside down.

Provide maximum access. Push up the flange, which helps seal the pipes, and remove the heating element along with the thermostat. It is necessary to completely disassemble the entire water heater system.

Inspect the condition of the tank walls and the heating element.

The coating of the tank walls is usually enameled or ceramic. There is rarely a large amount of scale left on them, so you can wash the boiler with soft kitchen sponges or rags. No rough action, the protective layer on the walls of the boiler must not be damaged.

The ТEН tends to be covered with a thick layer of scum, rust and other dirt deposits. The main growth should be removed with a knife or plastic spatula. Act slowly and smoothly, but quickly. As long as the FET is wet, dirt residue will come off more easily than when it is dry.

Next, for cleaning it is recommended to use the nozzles on an angle grinder or drill, which will carefully remove a layer of limescale with a metal brush. A modern alternative is wire brushes and sponges made of abrasive fiber or nylon. The lint will successfully cope with a thick layer of plaque and will not damage the surface. Many sources recommend using sandpaper. Boiler manufacturers advise against using this tool as it can easily damage the copper sheath of the heating element. After completing the cleaning, you should rinse the tank with water.

Advice. When disassembling the boiler it is important to check the condition of the magnesium anode in the boiler. This is the part that protects against corrosion and is located next to the heating element.

Do not use force on the anode to remove limescale, the tube element of the heater is brittle, it can be destroyed. It is recommended to change the magnesium rod every two years. Approximately during this period, it is thinned or completely disintegrated.


Small boilers are weak in mechanical maintenance, so there is an alternative. The chemical method of flushing the water heater is used. The main advantage. the process takes place without disassembling the boiler. Before you run to the store and buy cleaning solutions, it is worth studying the accompanying instructions to the boiler, or consult the manufacturer. It is important to understand what kind of chemical to use. acid or alkaline. Next, the means for cleaning are selected:

    – Is convenience and simplicity, is available in any home. You will need 20-50 grams of powder per 1 liter of water. Proportion of 1/3. Will help clean the water heater’s heating element of scale, rust and prevent corrosion.

  • Vinegar solution is another inexpensive remedy. Dilute 100 ml of ordinary 9% vinegar in 1 liter of water. Poured through a hose with water supply, dissolves scale, and all lime scale in 30-35 minutes.
  • Baking soda. when using it, you need to watch the temperature of heating, it should not be more than 55 degrees, otherwise the composition will begin to decompose. Per 1 liter of water 25 grams of soda, the ratio of 1/12. Just like citric acid lifts the rust and does not let it settle.
  • Reagents are specialized products that are designed for cleaning boilers and heating devices. In the departments of household chemicals there is a large variety of means to combat plaque. To save money, you can look into protection for electric kettles, such as “Antikipin”. The composition is the same, and the price is much lower.

Tip. Study the features of the boiler. Depending on the manufacturer, solutions are poured into containers for different amounts of time.

After selecting a suitable solution, move on to a set of simple actions:

  • Shut off the water, disconnect the tubes;
  • Drain part of the liquid, leave 1/3 in the tank;
  • Put a hose on the incoming tube, on the other side pour the cleaning solution;
  • wait from 30 minutes to several hours (depending on the composition and degree of contamination);
  • Drain the remainder through the faucet, flush the tank.

Tip. Take out on the tank nozzle extra faucet, so as not to drain the dirty water through the pipe.

Similar to the tank, chemical cleaning works great for the heating element device. A small container is filled with water and oxidizer. Soak the heater in the solution obtained. For effective action, you can heat it up. 30-40 minutes and the limescale will come off on its own. As an oxidizer will do, both folk remedies listed above, and chemical, purchased in the store.

Maintenance of the boiler or how to descale the heater

Hi all. I want to describe the entire process of servicing the boiler from beginning to end. In principle, if you want that the water heater would serve you long and well, such maintenance should be conducted regularly, for example, I spend after each season of using the boiler, that is, if in the summer the hot water is turned off, I run the boiler, at the end of the summer water is given, I turn it off and conduct a complete service, if you use all year round, you should conduct maintenance at least once a year, or better two times a year. The fact that inside the boiler from the hot and hard water (and sometimes because of the rust, which gets there with water) is formed scum, which adheres to the shadow, settles to the bottom and adversely affects the operation of the water heater in general and the shadow in particular, with a scum, which adheres to the shadow as a stone, the water heating time increases, there is increased noise during heating and reduced service life of the heating elements. Also if you have a boiler standing with water all the time, that is, you do not use it for a long time, and the water is not drained, then there are all sorts of harmful bacteria breed that contaminate water, settle on the shade and walls of the heater and from which you water then begins to stink hydrogen sulfide. I will describe using the example of my water heater,

But the principle is the same everywhere, the only difference may be the disassembly process and that’s all.So: we begin with that disconnect the boiler from a socket, open the crane of hot water and pour all boiling water from the boiler, that is stupidly waiting until cold water goes from the hot crane, as went so there is no more boiling water in the boiler, the fact that the boiler is arranged as a thermos, so cool down will be long, after that we pour water from the heating element, I have for this purpose the crane before the valve on a cold water supply:

T-branch for the faucet must be placed only BEFORE the valve and not after the valve, otherwise your drain valve will not be helpful.

I simply unscrew the pipe at the hot water outlet to allow air to enter the boiler and open the faucet, pre-wearing a hose on the faucet. If you do not have this, then simply unscrew the branch of the hot water and through the valve draining water, valves are different so drain differently, if anyone has any questions on the drain, I will answer separately. After that remove the cover :

Replacing the wet heating element with a dry DryHeat

The design allows you to upgrade the water heater and replace the normal wet heater on a dry-heating system DryHeat from a newer model. The benefits we get after the replacement:

  • No scale on heating elements.
  • Double lifetime of dry heating elements.
  • Heating elements replacement without water drainage and water heater dismantling from the wall.

For replacement, the bulb itself under article number 353021500264, a set of heating elements. 1096175 magnesium anode. 818812.

Replacing the over-temperature thermostat

The tank is provided with overheat protection, a safety thermostat is responsible, its task in case of an emergency situation when the temperature reaches about 95 degrees, to cut off power from the entire electrical circuit. To return to operating position manually press the black button on the housing. Must be replaced if the reset button does not stay in the operating position or has a constant false trip. It is factory set in china, we recommend you to replace it by Thermowatt. A new Thermowatt is available from our website under part number: 181419. Italy 46300080. China

Needed tools: pliers, wrench and socket head 13.

Overheating thermostat replacement

To protect against boiling water installed bimetallic thermostat overheating, its task in case of emergency when reaching a temperature of about 95 degrees, turn off power from the circuit. To return to operating position manually press the button between the contacts on the tablet body. To be replaced if the return button does not remain in the operating position or there are constant false positives. A new tablet can be purchased on our website under part number 66064.

Tools required: Phillips screwdriver, pliers.

Replace temperature regulator

For temperature control is responsible for the most common mechanical thermostat TBR, range from 40 to 75 degrees. Must be replaced if it fails to pass through or does not shut off the power at the set temperature, bringing the water to boiling point. A new thermostat is available on our website under part number 100311.

How to descale a boiler. Tutorial for Level A and B ovens | Electrolux Professional

Necessary tools: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, construction hair dryer.



Electric storage water heaters AXIOmatic series are represented by models EWH AXIOmatic of 80, 100, 125, 150 liters and EWH AXIOmatic Slim of 30 and 50 liters. Made in China.

Tank is enameled, of black steel. Heating by one heating element, for water heaters with capacity of 30. 125 liters capacity of 1500 watts, for a water heater of 150 liters. 2400 watt. Mono heating element on pressed flange, 82 mm diameter, with one thermostat sleeve. To extend the lifetime of the heating element block is enamelled. There is a platform on the flange of the heating element to attach the anode. In 1/2 power mode the heating element is supplied through a diode, which passes only one half-wave of alternating voltage, which halves the power. In full power mode the diode is bridged by 1/2 mode switch. The circuit is powered through an emergency capillary thermostat with two switching contacts and a reset button. In series with the heating element is connected the adjustable thermostat. Power cord with RCD. It is strictly forbidden to disconnect the RCD. In most cases, turning off the RCD is due to a breakdown of the heating element.

For repair it is necessary to dismantle the lower cover that covers the block of the heating element and the other electrical components. The bottom lid is secured with four self tapping screws, which are under the plugs.

Heating elements are fixed by the ring clamp and tightened to the tank flange with five bolts (threads are inside the tank flange). There is no problem to disassemble the heating element. (Here you can see how to check the heating element)

The original heating element is coated with the same enamel as the tank.

Worthy replacement for the original heating element of Electron-T production r.Lvov. It is a double 1.5 kW 1.0 kw, made of stainless steel, total length of 1.5 meters, with a sufficient area of heat sink. Depending on the size of the boiler it is possible to connect one or two heating elements.

Бойлер ELECTROLUX EWH 100 SL через 15 лет непрерывного использования

When replacing the heating element with the original one the gasket need not be changed. If a heating element from another manufacturer is used, the flange gasket must be replaced.



Electric storage water heaters Electrolux family EWH Quantum, EWH Quantum Slim, EWH Magnum, EWH Magnum Slim, EWH Magnum Unifix EWH Quantum Pro are models with a capacity of 30, 50, 80, 100 liters.

The tank is enameled, of black steel. Qantum and Magnum have the same tanks

Heating is provided by a single heating element of 1.5 kW. Heating element is single, on a stamped flange with a diameter of 92 mm with a large diameter sleeve or two smaller ones to install thermostats. On the flange, there is a space to install the anode M6.

An adjustable capillary thermostat is connected in series with the heating element to set the desired temperature.

Power to the circuit is via an emergency capillary thermostat with two switching contacts and a restart button.

Switch only removes voltage from heater element.

Power cord with RCD. It is strictly forbidden to disconnect the RCD. In most cases, turning off the RCD is due to a breakdown of the heating element. Signs of heating element malfunction. is no heating, tripping RCD. With the selection of heating elements there are no complications, fit unary heating elements Thermowatt (Italy), fit double heating elements Electron-T (Ukraine), in this case is connected one section of 1500 W.

Replacement of the heating element is not difficult, you need to disconnect the electrical wires, unscrew five nuts, remove the ring collar, remove the heating element. The heating element is secured with five embedded bolts. When replacing the heating element with a non-original one, be sure to replace the gasket of the flange.

Differences between EWH Quantum and EWH Magnum only in the location of the switch and the adjustable thermostat. With the EWH Magnum the controls are located on the housing, but with the EWH Quantum they are fixed to the bottom cover.

Electrolux EWH Magnum water heater has a switch, indicators and thermostat attached to the front panel attached to the outer casing. Mounting screws are located under the adhesive tape of the front panel.

Diagnosis is not difficult. If there is no heating and there are indications. Faulty heating element, or with less probability. the circuit breaker. No indication. Thermal overload protection device activated. After activation of the emergency circuit breaker, it is likely that the heating element must be replaced. No sign of operation. RCD has tripped. RCD triggers only because of the heating element. The water tightness is broken and water is leaking from under the lid. TENS leakage is broken.In the case of a malfunction of the adjustable thermostat. Generally the heating either does not turn on. or does not turn off. If the adjustable thermostat does not turn off. The emergency circuit breaker is tripped and disconnected.

The EWH Quantum Pro has many design differences from the original basic model.

There is no difference in the tank and the way of connecting the heating element. Completely different heating element and thermostat installed.

Device and repair of storage water heaters Electrolux EWH Quantum, EWH Quantum Slim, EWH Magnum, EWH Magnum Slim, EWH Magnum Unifix, EWH Quantum Pro.

Electric storage water heaters Electrolux family EWH Quantum, EWH Quantum Slim, EWH Magnum, EWH Magnum Slim, EWH Magnum Unifix EWH Quantum Pro are models with a capacity of 30, 50, 80, 100 liters.

Tank enameled, black steel. Qantum and Magnum have the same tank

Heating by one 1.5 kW heating element. Heating element is single, on a pressed flange with diameter 92 mm, with one large sleeve or two smaller ones to install thermostats. On the flange there is a space to install the M6 anode.

An adjustable capillary thermostat is connected in series with the heating element to set the required temperature.

The circuit is powered via an emergency capillary thermostat with two switching contacts and a reset button.

Switch removes voltage only from the heating element.

Power cord with RCD. It is strictly forbidden to disconnect the RCD. In most cases, RCD tripping is due to a breakdown of the heating element. Signs of heating element malfunction. is the lack of heat, tripping RCD. With the selection of heating elements there are no complications, fit unary heating elements Thermowatt (Italy), fit double heating elements Electron-T (Ukraine), in this case is connected to one section of 1500 watts.

The replacement of the heating element is easy, you must disconnect the electrical cables, unscrew the five nuts, remove the ring nut, remove the heating element. Heating element is secured by five cage bolts. When replacing the heating element with a non-original one, you must replace the gasket on the flange.

The only difference between the EWH Quantum and EWH Magnum is the position of the switch and the thermostat. The EWH Magnum has control elements located on the housing, while the EWH Quantum’s are mounted on the bottom lid.

Diagnostics is not difficult. If there is no heating when there is indication. The heating element is defective, or with less probability. the switch. No indication. The emergency thermostat is activated. After turning on the emergency protection, it is likely to need to replace the heating element. No sign of operation. RCD tripped. The RCD trips only because of the heating element. The water seal is broken and water is leaking from beneath the cover. The heating element is leaking.If the adjustable thermostat malfunctions. Heating usually either does not turn on. Or does not turn off. If adjustable thermostat fails to turn off. The emergency thermostat will trip and shut down.

The EWH Quantum Pro has many design differences from the original basic model.

There is no difference in the tank and the method of mounting of the heating element. A totally different heating element and thermostat are installed.

Temperature regulators and emergency thermostat are located on the thermostat rod. The thermostat adjustment knob fits into the slot in the temperature adjustment knob on the bottom cover.

clean, boiler, electrolux, magnum

The heating element is made on a stamped flange with a diameter of 92 mm, but the mating part of the electric contacts on the heating element is made in the form of a socket, where the rod thermostat is inserted.

Device and repair of storage water heaters Electrolux EWH Formax and EWH Formax DL.

Electric storage water heaters Electrolux EWH Formax and EWH Formax DL presented models with a volume of 30, 50, 80 and 100 liters. Production of China.

HEATING ELEMENT. main electronic unit. The overheating thermostat is located under the bottom cover. To disassemble it you need to remove four screws.

The tank is made of enamelled black steel. Water is heated by two wet heating elements of 0.8 and 1.2 kW. Heating elements block is made on a clamping flange Ø92 mm, secured by a ring clamp with five embedded screws.

On the flange, in addition to the two heating elements, there are two sleeves for thermostats and a platform for mounting a magnesium anode M6.

There are many options for replacing the heating elements. Example. production Electron-T. Lviv. When replacing the heating elements on the non-original, the gasket must be replaced.

Most of the problems are caused by burnout of the heating element. Signs of heating elements breakage are tripping of RCD, no heating while indicating work. (Here you can see how to check the heating element) It is strictly forbidden to disconnect or remove the RCD from the power cord. Circuit breaker rarely fails. If there is no indication at all, this means that the safety thermostat is tripped, which is located on the bottom cover, next to the electronic unit. The electronic block can break down (burning of contacts of the switching relays).

To replace the heating element it is necessary to remove the fasteners from the heating element terminals and remove the temperature probe and the temperature sensor. The probe and sensor are fixed in the rails with rubber stoppers. Potential for damage when removed. (The sensor is the same as in the EWH Centurio). Next, unscrew the nuts and remove the heating element.

Since 2016, the EWH Formax water heater began to be available with dry heating elements.

The design of the tank, the body and the elements of automation have not changed. Only the construction of the water heating unit has changed. Instead of two wet heating elements on a Ø92 flange, installed a construction of a flange with four sleeves, two of them hold heating elements of the stud bolt Ø12 type.2mm long, 400mm long, the other two are for mounting sensors and thermostats. On the flange there is an area for anode installation.

On the bottom cover is set thermostat overheat, which will work with the accumulation of large amounts of scale.

The water heating assembly (flange with heating elements) is also secured with a ring clamp and embedded screws.

To replace the heating elements it is not necessary to dismantle the flange, just disconnect the power wires, remove the fixing plate and pull the heating elements out of the flange. The flange is dismantled only to replace the anode, to clean the tank or in case of leakage of the flange.

Heating elements two, both with different power, the one with a red marked leads. 1200 watts, unmarked. 800 watts.

Flange is made of thin metal and covered with enamel. The sleeve welds are corroded after a year of use. In case of leakage of the flange, it can be replaced with a suitable unit of wet heating elements.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Maintenance of the water heating tank Electrolux EWH-30SL

The tank has never been opened, exactly 5 years in operation. But worked in a year maximum of 2 weeks. Decided to do maintenance. The safety valve still began to hiss, it must be clogged, we will have to replace it.

Cut off hot and cold water supply. Unscrewed cold water inlet hose from valve, then the valve. I put up a bucket, the water poured out in portions.

Three buckets drained. Unscrewed plastic. I took a picture of the terminal connection.

Disconnected the terminals. Unscrewed the nuts from the flange. Slit the clamp that secured the thermostat. Pull out the thermostat and the heat exchanger.

Of course I expected to see the worst, but the scale and deposits were not enough. The tank is whole inside.

A small amount of sediment was on the heating element, washed it off with water. But the magnesium anode was like a corroded anode, and would not unscrew.

Had to soak in water with “mole”, citric acid was not available.

I called around 20 stores and found only one. When selecting a new anode, it is necessary that it was not above the tenant.Magnesium anode (protects the tank and elements from corrosion and rust). change on time. Average life time ~ 1 year.Through a valve it is better not to drain water, t. к. It could be clogged with sediment.As a result, bought a new valve and magnesium anode.

I decided to check the resistance of the heating element, I did not check the breakdown on the housing.If it shows zero. the heating element is short-circuited.If it shows infinity or one. breakage of the heating element.

Screwed the anode and reassembled everything in reverse order.

First you should calculate the current consumed by the coil.I = P / U = 1600W/220V = 7,2A The now known current to calculate the required resistance of the coil is simple enough: R = U / I = 220/7,2 = 30,5 Ohm on the multimeter 60 Ohm, so my heater when heated has a large resistance and therefore long heats the tank.common malfunctions and troubleshootingLeaking tankThis is one of the most common malfunctions of the boiler. Repair of the tank is usually not done. It depends on objective reasons. It is impossible to separate the outer casing from the inner casing. Together the two covers can not be welded, because the coating of the tank is enamel, it will be damaged during welding. Typically, this failure usually occurs if the tank is not grounded, begins a rapid corrosive process, the tank wears out. If the tank is leaking, you can buy a new water heater. Only if your model allows you to replace the inner tank, there is still something you can do. So do not be fooled and do not be fooled by talk that someone has successfully welded the tank. Any master on repair of boilers will tell you that this is a lost cause. Save your nerves and time.Only if the water leaks from the bottom of the flange, you can do water heater repair with your own hands, replace the gasket, and fix the leak. And buy the gasket exactly the same.

Нагрев вилкиМожет нагреваться вилка от шнура бойлера. Водонагреватель является мощным прибором. Все его родные детали ему соответствуют, а вот розетка в которую вставляется шнур с вилкой, может быть маленькой мощности. Это часто приводит к нагреву вилки. Вилка может греться из-за разболтанных контактов. Надо посмотреть плотно ли прилегают контакт в розетке и в вилке.

Греются трубы и шланги холодной воды бойлераЭто сигнализирует о том, что обратный клапан пропускает горячую воду. Хотя он должен ее задерживать. В этом случае надо этот клапан заменить и установить правильно.



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