How to Check the Door Sensor of a Samsung Washing Machine

Closing and locking the hatch: a prerequisite for the safe operation of the washing machine

Difficulties with closing the door of the washing machine is often enough to bother the owners. Often they are quite simple to eliminate. In the first case, it does not slam. In the second, it slams but does not lock electronically. Consider the main types of causes that cause the inability to close the hatch, as well as figure out what to do if the door does not lock or does not close the lock in the washing machine.

The door of the washing machine does not slam, usually due to defects caused by mechanical action. The door lock does not make a distinctive click.

Blocking difficulties are caused by a malfunction in the electronics of the machine. In this case, the lock is slammed, as it should be, until it clicks. However, there is not a second click, confirming the locking by the electronics. As a rule, in this case, the device displays information with an error code on the display.

External damage

The lock may fail to close due to normal wear and tear or careless handling. For example, sometimes wet objects are hung on the door, which can damage the mechanism with their weight. Damage can also occur if the unit is closed with excessive force.

The unit may fail to close for several reasons:

• The door of the washer-dryer has been warped as a result of prolonged use.
• The tongue in the lock mechanism intended for locking has been dislodged.
• The plastic element or rubber gasket is worn out.

Detecting this type of fault is not difficult. You can test the door normally closing it without loading the laundry. If the door in such conditions does not close, then there is a breakage of the lock, or skewed fixing. Sometimes it can be due to improper installation, and then in an uneven position, the hatch can tilt under the influence of weight and vibration. How to install the washing machine correctly. read here.

To debug the operation of the machine you can do it yourself. Inspect the appliance and lock mechanism carefully. Check:

• Whether any objects are obstructing the closure. Sometimes things can get completely or partially under the hatch and jam the operation of the system.
• The condition of the locking hook: whether it falls into the slot.
• Is the catch reed properly in place?
• Signs of plastic or rubber gasket peeling.

Problems with the latch hook

The appliance door is locked with a hook that terminates the locking rod. It is this hook that must fit into the socket and secure the structure. As a result of wear, vibrations and other factors, the carrier pin may move out of its place and when closing it does not hit the socket. The door may fail to close or may close without triggering the closing sensor.

The problem can be solved as follows: Remove the hatch door, unscrew it around the perimeter. Open the hatch parts, put the base of the hook in place and assemble everything in reverse order.

Door sagging

The frame of the door is usually made of plastic. All fasteners (hinges) are made of metal. Plastic is softer than metal, and over time it will wear and deform at the point of contact. As a result, the hatch door may sag, resulting in the hook of the lock not hitting where it is supposed to when closing. In this situation, either the entire door or the fasteners must be replaced. This can be done using the following algorithm:

The hatch door can sag over time

Door handle breakage

The complete lock mechanism consists of the following elements: handle, lock hook, lock pin, spring. Breakage of any part leads to the door not locking or not closing/opening.

According to statistics, the door handle fails most often, as it is exposed to the most active impact from the user. Replacing any of these parts requires you to disassemble the entire door and replace the handle.

• Unscrew the door;
• Disassemble it into its components;
• Remove the old handle;
• install a new part;
• Assemble the door and reassemble it.

External damage

The lock may not close due to normal wear and tear or careless handling. For example, sometimes wet items are hung on the door and their weight can damage the mechanism. Damage can also occur if the unit is closed with excessive force.

The device may not close for several reasons:

• The door of the washer-dryer has been warped as a result of prolonged use.
• The tongue in the lock mechanism, designed to lock, was displaced.
• The plastic element or rubber gasket is worn out.

This type of failure can be easily detected. To check, you can perform a test closing in normal mode, without loading. If the door does not close under these conditions, it means that the lock is broken, or the fastener is warped. Sometimes it can be due to improper installation, and then in an uneven position, the hatch can tilt under the influence of weight and vibration. How to install your washing machine correctly. read here.

You can debug the machine yourself. Carefully inspect the appliance and locking mechanism. Check:

• Are there any objects obstructing the closure. Sometimes things can get fully or partially under the hatch and jam the system.
• Check the condition of the locking hook and see if it fits into the groove.
• Is the locking tab properly seated?
• Signs of detachment of the plastic or rubber gasket.

Problems with the latch hook

The machine door is locked with a hook that terminates the locking rod. It is this hook that must fit into the socket and secure the structure. As a result of wear, vibration and other factors, the supporting rod may move out of its place and not fit into the socket when closing. The door may not close or may close, but the closing sensor will not work.

The problem can be solved as follows: remove the hatch door, unscrew it around the perimeter. Open the hatch parts, replace the hook base and assemble everything in the reverse order.

Door sagging

The door frame is usually made of plastic. All fasteners (hinges) are made of metal. Plastic is softer than metal, and over time it will wear and deform at the point of contact. As a result, the hatch door can sag, as a result of the hook lock when closing does not get where it is supposed to. If this occurs, you need to replace either the entire door or the fasteners. This can be done using the following algorithm:

Over time, the hatch door can sag

Door handle breakage

The complete lock mechanism consists of the following parts: handle, lock hook, lock pin, spring. If any part fails, the door will not lock or close/open.

Statistically, the door handle fails most often, since it is the most exposed to the most user. To replace any of these parts, you must disassemble the entire door and replace the handle.

• Unscrew the door;
• Disassemble it into its components;
• Remove the old handle;
• install the new part;
• Assemble the door, put it in place.

What to do if the washing machine door won’t close

Try first of all to determine yourself why the washing machine door does not close:

• Check that the laundry is not caught in the gap between the cabinet and the door. Carefully distribute the items on the drum and restart the program.
• Open the machine and close the door carefully, pressing down firmly. Run the washing program, if there is a click, then the door closed.
• There may be a malfunction in the control module. Wait 10-15 minutes before starting the wash again. Electronics are especially reactive to power surges, so malfunctions occur.
• Check for debris in the locking device seat. The UBL is inside the case. Sometimes debris can get caught in the groove where the door tab should go. The lock does not happen because the tab does not reach the socket. This happens especially often if there are small children in the house. Small construction materials, candy wrappers, or even chewing gum get caught in the UBL.

Keep an eye out for any misunderstandings! Often the washing machine does not close the door, if you treat the equipment carelessly and do not follow the rules of its operation. Carefully check items before loading drum, inspect s, distribute laundry evenly across tank.

How to remove the washing machine hatch lock

mechanism inside the door

Removing the hatch locking device will require some tools:. Phillips or “star” screwdriver. Flathead screwdriver. Pliers

One of the easiest ways to remove the hatch lock is through the hatch with partial removal of the collar. To do this, it is necessary:

Remove the clamp fixing the boot lid. To do this, insert into the groove, under the clamp flat screwdriver and moving away from himself undercut clamp, enough to do it in one place, and then grab his hands or pliers start pulling in a circle.

Remove the collar by grasping the edge with your hands and unscrew it inside the hatch

Using a Phillips or screwdriver “star” unscrew the screws that secure the lock, as well there are locks that are fastened without screws, using latches, in this case, you must press the latches with a thin flat or Phillips screwdriver, and pull the lock to the side and away from yourself, and here lock is in your hands

How to check the washing machine hatch lock

Checking the coil impulse locking the hatch

Checking the washing machine lock is not a complicated operation, but requires a certain tool such as a multimeter or tester. Many people have this device in their household, so it does not take long to check. 3-pin hatch locks are the most common, and the following is true for testing them: Between the two contacts the resistance is on the order of 1 kOhm, and with the 3rd contact the resistance tends to infinity

Working principle and types of locks

Two types of locks are commonly used nowadays:

The first type is used less and less frequently. Its basic disadvantage is that the lock works properly only as long as there is electricity. If there is a power outage, the washing machine cannot be unlocked.

The bimetallic lock works in a very simple way: it energizes the thermal element and heats it up. The hot thermocouple heats the bimetal plates, they expand under the influence of heat and push the lever. It triggers and locks the door. At the end of the program the voltage to the lock is disconnected, the plates cool down, taper off and the latch returns to its previous position. The washing machine hatch is unlocked.

The second type of locks has a number of advantages. First, the unlocking of the hatch at the end of the program is delayed. It is necessary for the washing machine to completely drain the water, and all its elements have completed their work. Secondly, even if there is a power outage, the lock will unlock and the door can be opened and the laundry can be taken out. Many modern washing machine manufacturers, such as LG, Samsung, Indesit, etc., use this type of UBL.д.

What kind of locking devices there are and how they work?

Deciding to cope with the problem yourself, it is necessary to have an idea of how the UBL is arranged, what locks are put on automatic machines. During the last decades, manufacturers have equipped washing machines with either electromagnetic locks or mechanisms with bimetallic plates.

As for the electromagnetic devices, they are found to be quite unreliable. These locks only lock the sunroof when the power is applied. If suddenly the light in the apartment is turned off, the mechanism will instantly stop working. Modern washing machines, in the vast majority of cases, are equipped with UBL on the basis of bimetallic plates.

The principle of operation of bimetallic plate interlocks is very simple. The operation of the mechanism is provided by three components:

When the user starts the laundry, voltage is applied to the thermocouple of the UBL. The part heats up and transfers the heat to the bimetal plate. The plate, exposed to high temperatures, expands in size and presses the latch. The hook is quickly actuated and closes the mechanism, thereby locking the door. While the current is flowing into the lock, the door remains tightly closed.

When the washing finishes, and the power supply is cut off, the thermocouple gradually cools down. The bimetallic plate stops heating and decreases in size, pulling the “hook” back. After that, the washing machine hatch can be quietly opened.

Wait 2-5 minutes after the cycle is complete before opening the door as the bimetal plate needs time to cool.

It also happens that the contact of the latching device gets punctured. In this situation the thermocouple remains cold, the plate is not heated, the latch does not work. The control module receives no signal that the system is sealed, so the washing will not begin.

The opposite situation. when the power is supplied to the blocking device continuously, even after the end of the cycle. Then the elements don’t cool down and the control module keeps the door locked. Only by de-energizing the machine is it possible to get access into the drum.

How to Replace a Broken UBL

Repair and replacement of the UBL is not too difficult, and it can be done with your own hands. For this purpose it is enough to have a minimum knowledge of home appliance repair. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is worth to contact a specialist in a service center or call a master at home.

If the part is replaced, it is necessary to find a fully analogous version. The new latch must match the model and serial number of the old unit. Before installing it, it is necessary to remove the old mechanism. Then the installation of the new lock is made in the following sequence.

• UBL is connected to the wiring.
• The lock is installed in place.
• It is fixed by means of fasteners.
• Clamps and collars are installed.

After completing the work it is necessary to make sure that the household appliance is safe. To do this, you need:

• Check the grounding of the machine;
• Check that the appliances are level;
• install a residual-current device to protect the machine from power surges.

In any case, if there is the slightest suspicion of leakage, it is necessary to immediately contact professionals.

If the worn out parts are replaced in time and the washing machine is watched carefully, it will qualitatively perform its functions for many years. Regular preventive maintenance will help to prevent breakdowns, and careful maintenance will help to avoid the appearance of mold and unpleasant odor.

How to remove the door lock

The problem can be solved by restarting any program, e.g. the shortest ones are “Spin” or “Rinse”. A new work cycle eliminates the small program malfunction that caused the blockage, and the problem disappears.

If the lock has not unlocked within 10 minutes after finishing the program, disconnect the appliance from the mains for 10-15 minutes. The lock is normally released after a restart.

If the automatic unlocking does not work, the door can be opened by force. To unlock the door, pull the emergency door release cable. It is usually located in the lower left or right corner near the filter and marked orange or red. Most modern washing machines are equipped with such an auxiliary mechanism.

If the appliance does not have an emergency opening option, in this case you will have to remove the top cover of the machine and manually open the lock. To do this, gently slip your hand to the locking block and press the tab. the door will open.

If the machine repeatedly hangs in the lock mode or, on the contrary, it is impossible to lock the door, it is necessary to check the device of the locking hatch for serviceability. Before you do this, you must remove the LOS from the washing machine.

How to remove the UBL

Unscrew the bolts, remove the locking device, disconnect the connectors.

How to make the repair?

Repair and replacement of the lock is a simple process, which can be done with your own hands, even if you have minimal experience in repairing household appliances. In case of absence of repair skills, specialists recommend to apply for help to the service center, where qualified specialists work.

If the latch is broken and will not close, it must be replaced or repaired. Absolute identity of the model and serial number of the new and old parts is a must. Before installing the element, one must disassemble the old mechanism and free the seating.

• Connection of the wiring to the UBL;
• Inserting the lock and placing it in its seating position;
• installation of the fasteners;
• Installing the collar and clamp.

If installation of a new mechanism did not yield positive results and the lock mechanism remains in a defective state, then the problem of malfunction lies in the system board, which is categorically forbidden to repair yourself.

For safe operation of the device after the repair work a number of requirements must be met.

• Obligatory grounding of the automatic gas burner control system.
• Installing a residual current device in the switchboard, which will control the leakage current.
• Installation of the washing machine only on an even floor surface. It is strictly forbidden to raise the mechanism to a height where moving it when wringing can provoke the movement and fall of the unit.
• At the first signs of water leakage it is necessary to immediately call specialists.

An automatic washing machine is a complicated mechanism, in which the breakdown of one element can provoke a failure of the whole machine. Often seemingly insignificant faults cause a large number of problems and complications. One of the underestimated problems is the malfunction of the hatch locking device. If a breakdown is detected, it is necessary to immediately begin to fix it. Some masters find a way to close the hatch without a latch.

This manipulation can lead not only to damage to property, but also to electric shock to others, as well as mechanical damage during washing.

See below for washing machine UBL repair.

Internal causes

If the washing machine door closes perfectly, but the lock still does not work, then the cause of the breakdown should be sought in the electronic unit.

Breakage of the hatch locking device

The hatch locking device (UBL). a complex mechanism that is responsible for locking the door in a closed state throughout the washing cycle. The device has been under voltage for a long time, heats up, and in the course of prolonged operation may fail. Unstable power supplies may also damage the ULV.

Following the instructions, it is easy to replace the faulty device yourself. You can purchase a new appliance in a store or order one online, as long as the model fits the machine. The work is carried out in several steps.

• Disconnect the washing machine from the mains. Ensure that the hot and cold water supplies are shut off.
• Open the door of the machine. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the three screws that hold the locking device inside the unit.
• Remove the external spring clip, which is located under the rubber cuff. To do this, unscrew the rubber at the bottom of the drum, use a screwdriver to pull the spring to the side and pull the clamp out of the groove.
• Slide the collar and grasp the UBL from the inside. You may have to push the drum a little to the side.
• Release the latches that hold the cover in place and release the unit that needs replacing.
• Disconnect wiring harnesses from the lock.
• Reattach the wires to the new UBL, close the lid, and install the unit by aligning with the holes in the case. Tighten the screws that hold the unit in place.
• Reinstall the rubber sleeve, making sure that its edge fits into the groove around the entire circumference. Put on the outer spring clip (the spring is at the bottom of the drum).

After performing these simple manipulations, you should connect the washing machine to electricity, resume the water supply and check the operation of the new door lock device.

Debris in the UBL

Very often the washing machine ceases to lock due to debris caught in the lock device. Cloths, hair, bits of undissolved detergent, lime and salt accumulated over the years will prevent the door-locking device from working properly.

To get rid of this defect you need to remove the control module from the body, clean the gaps and remove dirt that prevents the normal locking. You should also clean the hole in the case, located where the lock is installed.

Failure of the control module

Control module is a complex electronic device that is responsible for the operation of the washing machine. You can say that it is the “brain of the machine”. If all of the above causes are considered and excluded, then the fault lies in the control module. The device can break because of voltage fluctuations, water on the board, burnout contacts, software failure and many other factors.

To analyze the cause of the failure, you will need special equipment. If there is no experience in carrying out such work, you should not try to do the repair of the control unit yourself. This expensive device can easily lead to failure, after which it will be more appropriate to buy a new machine rather than repairing the old one.

A specialist using a multimeter will test the circuit board and decide whether the device can be repaired or needs to be replaced. To fix the problem you will need a complete diagram of the unit and the machine as a whole. Without an in-depth analysis, a quality repair is impossible.

Each owner of the washing machine itself decides whether to make repairs on their own or call a master. If the elimination of the damage does not require special skills and sophisticated tools, as replacement of the hinge or installation of a new handle, it is quite possible to bring the machine into working order at home. For more serious problems, when you need to replace parts that are hidden deep inside the appliance, such as replacing the UBL or control module, it is better to turn to professionals.

How to check the washing machine lock

All front-loading machines are equipped with a lock. This device reliably locks the door from being accidentally opened while you are washing. Imagine if, in the middle of a cycle, someone accidentally jerked a handle and a full tank of water spilled onto the floor. This is the kind of mishap that the safety interlock prevents. But how to check the washing machine lock, if it suddenly jams or, on the contrary, does not work? This is what we will talk about in this article.

What are the causes of malfunctions??

The washing machine door lock sensor breaks down usually for two reasons. Most often, the malfunction of the blocker is caused by the banal wear of parts of the mechanism due to prolonged use of the machine. So, time after time, when heated, the plate deteriorates, and after a few years, the lock loosens to a minimum. If this is the case, the repair of the lock will be impractical, it is better to remove the old and put a new UBL.

In addition, the cause of malfunctioning of the locking device can be problems with the electronics of the machine. The matter may be the following:

• Voltage fluctuations in the power supply “break through” the thermal element of the lock, it stops warming up and transmits the charge to the plate and hook;
• The triac on the circuit board, which controls the operation of the latch, is shorted, and as a result, current is constantly flowing to the UBL, so the door cannot be unlocked.

There are also mechanical causes of malfunction of the UBL. The door can not come off if the sagging is noted, or the hinges on which it is mounted, deformed. In addition, the “tongue” in the lock can break itself. To avoid such problems, it is important not to hang things on the hatch, not to allow the kids to ride on it.

If you understand the operating principles and mechanism of the deadlocking latchbolt, you can determine the cause of the malfunction yourself. Let’s tell you how to perform diagnostics of the mechanism with your own hands. After finding the problem, it remains to fix it and continue washing.

Faults

If the hatch of a Samsung, Atlant, AEG, LG or any other automatic machine, in which a thermoelectric sensor is installed, remains blocked after the end of washing, it means one of the situations:

• The thermoelectric relay has not yet cooled down (you need to wait a few minutes);
• the machine does not consider the program completed (you need to restart the program, setting “spin” or “rinse” again, the node needs to be checked);
• The bimetallic plate has failed, and physically blocks access (you need to open the hatch in “emergency mode”).

If the Samsung washing machine door sensor is defective. the hatch does not close completely or the mechanism with the thermistor itself has failed, one of the letter error codes will be displayed:

What the closing module consists of?

Before disassembling the hatch locking device, it is worth to understand what it is, what parts the mechanism consists of, how it works. Modern automatic machines are equipped with bimetal locks. Such a module is very reliable. it will not allow you to open the door during the washing. So, the washing machine door lock includes:

The principle of the door locking module is as follows:

• The control unit supplies current to the thermocouple of the lock;
• The thermocouple heats up in 1 to 3 seconds;
• The charge is transferred to the bimetallic plate;
• the plate changes its size and exerts pressure on the clamp;
• The “tongue” falls out and remains in the special recess.

A “click” is heard when the door locking device is activated.

Opens the hatch in the same way, but all steps are performed in the reverse order. the bimetallic plate, when you stop applying the current, changes its shape, the latch “goes out” of the groove and “comes back” in its place. The door lock is released.

It should be understood that in most models of washing machines, the BIBL does not trip until one to three minutes after the cycle is complete. Therefore, do not try to open the door immediately with force. You must wait for the plate to cool and for the control module to check that there is precisely no water left in the tank.

If the door does not open even after 10-20 minutes, it is likely that the mechanism has malfunctioned. For what reason the blocker can break, how to check and repair it, we will tell further. The locking device is located on the front wall of the housing, to the right of the drum door. Its location gives away a small rectangle protruding slightly outward. That’s just the groove where the lock tab goes.