Home Article How to adjust the seam on a sewing machine

How to adjust the seam on a sewing machine

How to adjust your sewing machine’s thread tension

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In this article, we’ll look at the most common problems associated with improper sewing thread tension. Also, learn how to manipulate your machine’s tension controls to get the perfect straight stitch.

Proper sewing thread tension. One of the most important basic skills you need to learn, along with skills such as sewing on buttons and zippers.

The degree to which you master this skill determines how your pieces will look: cheap or professional.

At first, it may seem unimportant whether the thread tension is clearly balanced or not. But there will come a time when improper thread tension will become a problem for you. You may be sewing specialty fabrics. Or maybe you want to sew two different colors of fabric on each side and combine different threads. And if you haven’t figured out the tension scale by then, you won’t have any fun anymore.

In general, the setup is as follows: We watch and adjust the tension of the upper thread. If that doesn’t solve the problem, the bobbin tension may be the problem.

When we talk about machine stitching, I would like you to imagine a chain. There is an upper thread and a lower thread (thread on the bobbin). These threads are interlocked in the fabric at equal intervals (each stitch).

How the sewing machine works:

To get perfect sewing machine thread tension, you need to make sure that both upper and lower threads are pulled with equal force and that neither comes out on the opposite side of the fabric.

It depends on the type of fabric, the needle, the type of thread.

This is what a perfect sewing machine thread tension should look like:

This is what a smooth stitch looks like where we don’t see any threads on the opposite side.

But before you change the numbers on the tension scale, you should take into account several factors that can cause tension problems.

The thing is, sometimes the problem is not the tension, but other elements of the sewing machine, such as the wrong needle or not the best quality thread. You may not believe it, but these two factors play a big part in the quality of your stitches.

That’s why I’ve made a list of common problems that can cause thread tension to become unbalanced. By changing one or two items on this list, you can easily solve your thread tension problem.

Possible causes of thread tension problems

Use the same type of upper and lower threads

First of all, check if the brands, material, and weight are the same in the lower and upper threads. If you use different threads, you can have a lot of different problems when sewing.

Clean your sewing machine

If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case or in the thread path, or if dust has accumulated, it can cause the stitch not to lie as you expect.

Use the right size needle

Check the chart to see if the needle matches the fabric you’re working with and see if that might be causing a problem.

Use the right type of thread

Usually the same thread is good for sewing everything. But there are some thread types that are better for certain fabrics.

Refill your sewing machine

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve missed a hook or two when threading the machine. It changes the tension of the thread. So eliminate this point for yourself.

How to adjust the upper thread tension on the sewing machine?

The numbers on the thread tension wheel determine the tension. It’s very simple: the higher the number, the more tension the thread has.

Conversely, the lower the number on the dial, the less pressure (tension) of the upper thread.

A general rule of thumb: the heavier the fabric, the more tension it needs.

The number corresponds to the different fabrics, so I recommend to have a notebook where you can write down the ideal amount of tension for each fabric you sew.

If there are loops forming at the bottom when sewing, you need to increase the tension. If the lower thread is coming out to the front side, it means the tension plate is too tight. Fix this by turning the wheel to the left.

How to correct bobbin tension?

If you have tried all of these steps and still can’t adjust the tension, the bobbin may need adjustment. The problem looks like this: you move the needle threader, but the upper thread is still pulled from below. This means the bobbin tension is too high. You see, the bobbin case also has some tension. Usually it is adjusted by the manufacturer, but on some machines it is easy to adjust.

Pull out the bobbin case. It should have a small screw on it that can be tightened or loosened a little, depending on the need.

That’s all. I hope you’ve figured it out so you don’t have any more problems with your sewing machine’s thread tension.

Step by step description of the process

Depending on the model and year of manufacture, the sewing machine setup may differ.

After the downtime

The step-by-step guide if the sewing machine is idle is as follows.

  • Disassemble the machine and check which parts are oxidized. Clean off rusty plaque and lubricate. If any part has deteriorated (e.g., the machine has been idle for a long time in high humidity conditions). try to find a replacement. If the parts are discontinued. perhaps contact a turner or milling machine to make it (show the specialist the drawing and what is left of the old part). Action makes sense when a rarity is valuable in and of itself, and it is worth trying to restore it.
  • Raise the presser foot and run the machine without threads, so that the oil spreads over the rubbing surfaces.
  • Change the needle (if it was originally there) or put a new one in the machine immediately.
  • Tuck in a thread of the right thickness and strength, run the machine on an unnecessary piece of fabric.

If the machine sews well, start sewing.

How to set up the PMZ machine?

PMZ is capable of sewing all fabric thicknesses and densities. It is not a problem to sew several different elasticity and thickness layers together with it. Although this machine is almost a century old, it is used by experienced seamstresses to this day. This is one of the few machines literally built for the ages. To adjust the Podolsk model, do the following.

  • Wind the required amount of thread onto the bobbin. The winder is located in the back, next to the handwheel, with which the thread tensioner also interacts. Install the bobbin on the winder, and the thread spool on the rod at the top of the case. Pass the thread under the tensioner washer and secure its end to the installed bobbin. Slide the bobbin winder frame down until the pulley rim and the handwheel make contact. Turn the handwheel to wind the thread onto the bobbin. Control the free edge of the thread so that the bobbin is filled evenly with it.
  • To install the bobbin and thread, secure it in the bobbin case so that a beveled slit is left at the top. Through the last and comes out unraveling when working thread. Then the same thread bypasses the compression spring and comes out through the end slot. Secure the bobbin cap, thread the end of the thread outward, and close the hook compartment.
  • When threading the needle, be sure to lock the handwheel with the locking screw by turning it toward the worker sitting behind the machine. Before doing this, move the mechanism that moves the needle to the leftmost position with the drive handle. In doing so, the cut of the needle bulb should face to the left. The pulling lever is withdrawn to its uppermost position, then the upper thread is threaded through its ear. The handwheel turns in the direction of the seamstress. Thread the thread through the thread tensioner and thread guide and thread the needle.
  • Pull the lower thread out by turning the knob.

If done correctly, the needle will catch the lower thread from the hook as it plunges. It is then lifted up and both threads are passed through the fabric layers to be sewn.

Setting up the Seagull

In the “Seagull” machine setup algorithm is similar to the “Podolsky”, but slightly different. After disassembling, cleaning, lubricating, and reassembling the machine, do the following.

  • Install the thread and needle. To install the upper thread, turn the handwheel until the needle bar and thread tensioner are at their highest positions. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin holder as far as it will go. Turn the bobbin with its flat cut toward the presser foot, fix it with the screw so it won’t come off when you’re working. Pass the thread through the thread guide, presser, tension lever, needle bar loop and needle hole.
  • Wind the lower thread onto the bobbin, filling it to the limit. Insert the bobbin into the hubcap and pass the end of it outward.
  • Turn the knob, pull both threads taut, and thread them under the sewing foot.

The “Seagull” machine has a disc with different working positions. If the fabric is thick and coarse, the teeth of the disc will protrude. In the case of fine fabrics, they are hidden. When you finish adjusting, release the needle foot and turn the dial toward you. You can start sewing by placing the fabric to be sewn into the stitching machine.

Sewing Machine Thread Tension. Updated

Setting up modern models

Use the instructions provided with the machine. Most new models function the same way, but the step-by-step instructions may vary. Do the following:

  • Adjust the optimal positions of the work pieces using the special adjustment rollers;
  • adjust the bobbin so that the bobbin’s cap prevents the thread from unwinding unnecessarily;
  • Normally, the thread moves in a strict sequence: first through the metal holes, then through the tensioner, the thread lever, the release hole on the needle holder, and through the end of the needle.

The parts by which the thread is pulled properly are placed within the shuttle screw and on its end side (upper and lower thread).

After adjusting the settings, make a test stitch on a scrap of fabric you don’t need. Indicator of a good seam. small knots in the middle of each stitch, no dangling loops.

Adjustment of the correct position of the foot is carried out with the appropriate spring. If the presser foot is not adjusted, the fabric will tear or the seam will unravel easily at the slightest tension. Be guided by the thickness and stiffness of the fabric you want to sew.

Also set the correct number of revolutions per minute. Regulate the speed of the electric motor shaft on the foot pedal. If the engine speed regulator does not function correctly, disassemble and clean the contacts. If the current carrying parts are completely worn out, this component must be completely replaced.

If this machine has a tine regulator. insert a needle of a suitable height, which will affect the stitch length. Thin thread should form a stitch length of no more than 2 mm. For thick threads, the stitch length is set at 3-4 mm.

How to adjust a sewing stitch?

Good day, all readers of the blog milla-sidelnikova.com!

Beautiful, smooth seams are very important! Stitches are one of the main elements of the design of the product and their quality performance is an indicator of the level of professionalism of those who made them. Therefore, you should try to do everything so that the stitches made by the sewing machine are flawless.

But before you make the stitches, you need to prepare properly. It is better to spend a little more time on preparation, so that you can then do the work quickly, accurately and neatly.

And, of course, set yourself up for a successful job as well. Then the work will go like clockwork.

There are several conditions that must be met before sewing machine stitches.

Thread and needle numbers for sewing machines should be chosen according to the type of operation performed and the thickness of the fabric.

All inside stitches are in the color of the main fabric.

Finishing stitches are either in the color of the fabric or in a contrasting color. Finishing stitches are made with silk or synthetic threads. But they definitely need to be more resistant to “aggressive environment” than the threads for the inside seams, as in the process of using the finished product with them and “demand” more.

Stitch length for inside stitches made on the sewing machine, depending on the thickness of the fabric. The thicker the fabric, the longer the stitch. It can be from 2 to 3 mm. A stitch of this length is called a normal or normal stitch.

As the fabric is thicker, it automatically reduces the stitch length, so when sewing e.g. leather, suede, etc.д., Stitch length increase to 2.5 4 mm. This is also done so that the material itself does not tear because of the line, densely laid on it, needle punctures.

In the places subject to the most stretching during operation (for example, the middle seam on the back of the pants, the seam at the armhole line on the back side, etc.).д.) it is better to sew in smaller stitches (up to 1 mm).

Very short stitches of 0.5 to 0.7 mm are used for tacking.

The stitch lengths of the finishing stitches are set longer. And maybe four or five millimeters.

Before you start sewing machine stitches, the cut pieces need to be measured. That is, fold the front side facing each other, aligning the cuts and marks and lay a mix stitch.

Or before you do the machine stitch parts of the cut can be pinned. This “procedure” can be done when the stitching is laid in straight lines. Then the pins are pinned across the seam.

Of course, the likelihood that the sewing machine needle will hit exactly the pin is not so great. But when this happens, the needle and pin are likely to become unsuitable for further work. And risk the “health” of the sewing machine, I personally, never in a hurry. Therefore, right before the sewing machine foot I remove the pins.

The fabric is placed under the presser foot so that it is all to the left of the foot.

Conversely, if a narrow hemming stitch will be sewn or a waistband will be sewn, then the fabric should be on the right side of the foot.

Machine stitches are laid strictly along the contours of the pattern (which has already been applied to the fabric), at a distance of 0.1-0.15 cm from the laughing stitch.

Even if you baste the details of cutting, even if you overlap, and stitching, the sewing machine still somewhat moves one layer of fabric over the other. To somehow minimize this shifting of layers, the following rules should be followed:

  • If the length of the seam allowance is the same, then the seam allowance can be sewn on either side of the pattern. But the cut of the lower part should be slightly pulled by the right hand towards yourself, and the cut of the upper part should be guided (pushed under the sewing machine foot) by the left hand;
  • If one seam is slightly longer than the other, then the stitching is sewn on the side of the pattern with the shorter seam;
  • (1 in the picture 1) if a machine stitch is sewn between two seams that “belong” to different fabrics, then down goes the fabric that is thicker.
  • (2 in picture 1) if joining two patterns, one with a straight cut and the other with a slanted cut, the “union” of these patterns is placed, for stitching, with the straight cut on top and the slanted cut on the bottom;
  • if the stitching is made on a closed contour, then it is better to do it from the inside;
  • (3 in picture 1) and if one of the parts to be joined (when the stitching is carried out on a closed contour) is flattened, then it is placed underneath;
  • (1 in picture 2) if two seams are joined, one of which is a lapped seam ( a gathering is formed), then the stitching is sewn on the side of the lapped seam;
  • (2 in picture 2) when joining cuts, one of which is straight and the other convex, the stitching is laid on the side of the convex;
  • (3 in picture 2) when joining cuts, one of which is convex and the other concave, the stitch is laid on the side of the concave.

When sewing at an angle to the warp threads, the stitch should be sewn from the wider part of the pattern to the narrower part. That way the cut threads will not be torn.

If the machine stitch was sewn on a closed loop, you can not tack it, and simply loop the end of the stitch over the beginning by 2 2.5 cm.

Finish the machine stitch in the same way as you started with a tack.

And here about this, how to start and finish a machine stitch, I suggest you read the following article.

How to sew a straight stitch?

Well, in the previous article we prepared the sewing machine for work. Pull the ends of the upper and lower threads to a length of 15 mm and put them under the presser foot backwards. And what to do next, so that the foot of the sewing machine stitch came out flat?

Because straight stitching is so important! The quality of the stitching determines the appearance of the product and how long it will last. By machine stitching you can tell at a glance who did it, a crooked amateur or a pro.

So in today’s article we will look at how you can do machine stitching quickly, accurately and from the first time.

For machine stitching to be smooth, two factors must work simultaneously. Sewing machine a basic tool in sewing, should be 100% ready to go. And working on it should have the appropriate mindset.

What does it mean, the sewing machine is 100 percent ready?

Sewing machine needle (stem thickness (size), shape of the tip) should be in perfect condition and consistent with the type and thickness of the fabric;

N uture. The stitches in the sewing machine must be of good quality, suitable for the type of fabric, its thickness, as well as the size of the needle;

The upper and lower threads should be from the “same dough. Which means they should be the same thickness and preferably the same brand;

The sewing machine should be threaded with upper and lower threads, exactly as suggested by the manufacturer of the sewing machine, in the instruction manual for the machine.

If there is no automatic thread tension control, the tension of both upper and lower threads must be adjusted independently. How to adjust it is the tension?

Properly adjusted tension of upper and lower threads is when during the stitching, their (the threads) intertwining occurs in the middle of the sewn layers of fabric, not on their upper or lower surface. The stitches formed in this process, the top and bottom of the stitching should be the same.

Therefore, you should always do a test stitch before you do a basic stitch. For the trial will be best if the upper and lower threads are contrasting in color, then their intertwining will be more clearly visible. In this case, the thread for the pilot, by structure, texture, size should be exactly the same as those with which the main stitch will be carried out.

If the stitches on the proof are the same, both at the top and at the bottom of the fabric layers, then the tension of the upper and lower threads can be considered correct.

If the bottom surface of the fabric forms loops of the upper thread, it should increase the tension of the upper thread.

If loops from the lower thread form on the upper surface of the fabric, it means that the tension of the lower thread should be increased.

The tension of the upper thread is adjusted by the regulator. It looks different on different sewing machines. This may be a rotating circle or a screw. But it is invariably on the head of the sewing machine, somewhere near the needle or the “paths” of the upper thread. It always adjusts the distance between the discs, washers, etc.п. that clamps the upper thread.

On such a regulator, as a rule, there is a scale. The desired upper thread tension is set at the marking. The higher the number indicated by the needle thread regulator, the tenser the needle is.

Regulator trailing thread tension is located on the bobbin case.

This is the small screw that adjusts the pressure of the elastic plate mounted here on the bobbin case. And depending on how much thread tension required, the screw, then loosened (unscrewed), then clamped (screwed).

The stitch length must also be adjusted according to the thickness of the layers of fabric to be sewn and the type of stitching to be performed. This is done, or by scrolling the knob regulator stitch length on mechanical sewing machines, or set on the display of computerized machines.

Well, with the numbers on the display of computerized machines, everything is clear, which the figure is set so long stitch (in mm) and will sew the sewing machine.

The scale located on the stitch length adjuster of mechanical sewing machines can be with:

  • inch division from 0 to 20, where the number means the number of stitches per inch (1 inch ≈ 2.54 cm). If you put the number 10, then the stitches in an inch will be 10, which turns out, the stitch length will be somewhere around 2.54 mm;
  • with metric division (0, 1, 2, 3, etc.).д.), where the number indicates how many mm are in one stitch;
  • Numbered division (from 0 to 9), where the stitch length is set, we can say by poke, the higher the number on the scale, the longer the stitch and vice versa.

When making inside seams, the sewing machine regulator is set to the division at which the sewing machine should make a normal (normal) stitch:

  • For sewing machines with an inch division, it is recommended to put the regulator on a division between 10 and 12;
  • with a metric division at 3 mm;
  • With the number division on the number 5.

There is no stitch width adjustment as such. There is an adjustment of the stitch width. It is also set either on the display of computerized sewing machines or with the stitch width adjuster on mechanical machines.

Presser foot pressure, if it is not automatic, and it can be adjusted, too, need to adjust. For thin fabrics, set the presser foot to a lower pressure on the fabric, for thicker fabrics, set the presser foot to a higher pressure.

When laying different stitches to use the recommended manufacturer and provided to perform a particular stitch, foot.

Now as for working at the sewing machine.

Of course, it is better to learn right away on a good technique. And work, too. But any, sometimes even the best technique in the hands of a clumsy piece of iron. Met such in life! Yes? What he’ll do, but his hands are hooked. In this case, you can advise one of two things, or do not approach the sewing machine or practice and again practice, and there you look, and coulema become a pro.

Next. In order to work well, the stitch came out even, first you need to get yourself in order. Do not sit down to work at the sewing machine while extremely nervous. The sewing machine, of course, she is an inanimate object, but the jerking, braking and bumping can not stand. There will definitely be vengeance.

Sew evenly. On long, smooth runs, you can increase the speed to the maximum. In corners, difficult areas, curved seams speed must be reduced. And in the most difficult places, where the stitch has a very complex shape, the stitch must be laid by turning the handwheel by hand.

Always, while stopping or turning the fabric layers to be sewn, you must leave the sewing machine needle in the material to avoid shifting the stitching.

Do not force fabric layers under the sewing machine needle.

While sewing a stitch, many, especially beginner sewing enthusiasts, like to look at the sewing machine needle running. It is certainly mesmerizing when one is working. You can’t watch it endlessly. But then don’t expect a straight stitch, either.

The needle will not go anywhere, it will not go for a walk, it will not go for a break either.

On many sewing machines, to the right of the needle is a scale. It can be on the needle plate or it can be marked on the body of the sewing machine. This scale is the same as a ruler. Where 0, this is the point of entry of the needle into the needle plate, and therefore the point of reference. The distance from 0 to the lines of this scale is the width of the seam.

This fishing line is the reference point when sewing. It should be the cut of the fabric layers to be sewn together. The calmer and smoother the cut is along the reference line, the smoother and neater the stitch is made.

If your sewing machine does not have such a scale, or if the scale is hard to see (reflections from light) or if it is not enough divisions on the scale, you can easily make it yourself.

To do this, you need to cut a strip of paper of any width and length. For example, let it be 5 cm long and 1.5 cm wide. Put any divisions you want on it in cm, mm, etc.д.

Put a homemade scale on the body of the sewing machine. The axis of the needle should be on the zero mark. Opposite any mark on this scale (except 0), make any marks on the scale and on the car body (for further alignment).

Then a part of the self-made scale from zero and to the right should be cut off. Cut off so much so that the homemade scale does not interfere with the conveyor belt.

Cover the front side of the homemade scale (the side on which the graduations are marked) with a sticky side of adhesive tape.The strip of duct tape should be slightly wider and longer than the scale strip.

Next, aligning the mark on the scale and the body of the sewing machine glue a strip of tape to the body. Such a thing can serve you for a long time.

An excellent “guiding star” for making straight stitches can be a strip of duct tape, glued across the body of the sewing machine, at the required distance from the needle.

Or you can do without the scale. Choose some other reference point. For example, the sewing machine foot, its inner and outer edges can serve as a great reference point.

Often it happens so that here would be done right, but the seam well or not get a straight stitch. I explain it this way, life itself is keeping you from moving on. It has provided you with a temporary stalemate, for you to stop and think, something is wrong, something is missing, something else needed to be done. And not seldom it turns out exactly, some operation, manipulation or action, in the process of sewing was missed.

Well, that’s all for today. Have a smooth stitching! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

Proper care of the sewing machine

In order that each time before using a sewing machine does not need to adjust it enough to observe certain preventive measures, the main ones include:

  • Lubrication of all major parts should be performed with a special oil at least once every six months;
  • after each use of the sewing machine, be sure to remove all dust and dirt from its surface, as well as the cover of the hook and needle plate, formed during operation;
  • Before you hide the machine in a case, make sure that there are no in its design elements torn threads and fabric, as well as putting a thick paper or cardboard under the foot, put it down to the stop;
  • storage of the sewing machine should be carried out in a cover;
  • Pedal and drive cords should be coiled as carefully as possible to avoid kinking and rips.

You can also read. How to correctly tuck a thread, needle or bobbin in a sewing machine.

Looping stitch in the sewing machine: causes and elimination

In the process of working with a sewing machine, it happens that the bottom thread of the seam begins to loop. The most common cause of this malfunction is insufficient thread tension. The stitching is made uneven in the bottom row, which may seem to be due to the lower thread, but make no mistake. It is the upper thread that causes looping, and if it is tightened properly, the unwanted phenomenon should disappear.

That’s just not always possible to solve the problem so easily, and the action taken may not give positive results. Let’s find out why the sewing machine sews loops, what the root cause of this effect and how to fix this problem.

How the adjustment is made

Before you start fine tuning the upper and lower threads, it is advisable to perform a test stitch on an unnecessary scrap of fabric. Carefully inspect the stitches just released from under the needle. If there are imperfections, but they are shallow, use a magnifying glass. Normally, properly set up equipment will produce a seam that is flawless on both sides of the fabric. If the tensioner is malfunctioning, the threads can become too tight or the stitches can sag, preventing reliable stitching.

If there are no such defects, continue sewing. the machine works perfectly without your interference in the tensioner adjustment.

If you still do not like the quality of the seam. always know that the threads are effectively hidden between the layers of fabric being sewn. No “wrinkles” may form on any layer of fabric. The tension of the threads is such that one thread pulls the other when it is caught. The other bobbin must be wound in the same way. If the tension is equal, the seam is perfect. But if one of the threads pulls too much, it pulls the other one against itself and the fabric layers are pulled too much. The principle is as follows: if there are points of pull on the lower thread from above, the upper thread is overtightened; the reverse is also true.

Be sure to check that the machine is running smoothly and accurately. The threads must be inserted into the machine strictly according to the instructions. The bobbin must not come off or slip out while the machine is in operation. Keep the tensioners clean. Foot, needle, guide, tensioning lever, hook, bobbin holder and needle bar mechanism should be free of chips, jagged edges, unnecessary bumps and concavities, which ideally are not foreseen. Any damage to the thread can cause it to be too thick.

Make sure that the thickness of the thread matches the thickness of the fabric.

Using cotton thread is not recommended. The best option is thread from any synthetic fiber: nylon, nylon, polyamide, silk, polyester, and others. The needle should not be too thin. trying to punch one or more stitch holes in overly thick and coarse fabric will immediately damage it. Using a stitch length of less than 1,5 mm will immediately compromise the quality of the seam, and the fabric will crush under the needle plate of the stitcher.

Now let’s get down to the tuning. Look for the upper thread tension adjuster. If this is the first time you’ve encountered this, refer to the instructions that came with the machine. For a hand-built machine that doesn’t have an owner’s manual, the handle with the numbers on it is a quick reference.

The tension increases as the regulator knob is turned to the “greater” side. The graduation value is half the distance between the numbers. After each change in tension, perform a test stitch until there is no slack in the threads or overstretching of the fabric.

Your goal is for the upper and lower threads to balance each other. This is remotely similar to calibrating a scale without a pointer, where a batch of goods to be dispensed was weighed by balancing them with appropriate weights. The lower thread should not come out at the top. this is when the stitch is considered perfect. Unlike the upper thread tension, the lower thread tension is no longer adjusted with the regulator.

The lower thread tension is primitively adjusted by hanging the hook from the end of the thread that comes out from under the bobbin cap. If the thread does not unwind from the bobbin by the weight of the hook hanging on it, loosen the bobbin thread tension. When the thread is unwound quickly, the tension is, on the contrary, weak. Ideally, the hook suspended on the thread should advance a few centimeters. but not lower until the bobbin runs out of thread.

Tension is adjusted by turning clockwise the screw around the hook with a screwdriver to increase tension, and anticlockwise to decrease tension.

If the hook is fixed, after tightening the screw a test stitch must be sewn.

The result of fine-tuning the thread tensioners is a perfect stitch. You can get to work. The machine setup is complete.

How it works

To become proficient at manipulating the adjustable adjusters, you need to understand how your unit works. To do this:

  • Find the thread guides. These are special loops that guide the thread fiber according to the pattern. They are directly involved in the sewing process.
  • Look at where the adjuster with the clamping discs are located. It takes care of the upper thread, clamping it between the discs and making it pass under pressure.
  • Locate the hook mechanism. It can be used to adjust the tension of the thread from below. Regardless of whether the machine works with a vertical or horizontal hook, you will need to use a small screwdriver to adjust it. The process is adjusted from the inside, first get to the bobbin under the needle plate.

You also need to understand how all of these mechanisms work together. Otherwise your self-adjustment will have no effect.

Other factors affecting the tension

If pulled-out buttonholes continue to appear on the product after debugging, check:

  • Whether or not the front thread is properly threaded.
  • Is the wrong needle thread fastened correctly? Also check the installation of the bobbin in the hook. If the cap is in the correct position, it snaps into the hook. If the bobbin is not positioned correctly, the bobbin will pop out and affect the quality of the stitching.
  • Debris accumulating in various parts of the mechanism. Often fleece is stuffed into the hook block, mixed with the lubricants and pressed there, preventing normal movement of the machine. Or a lump of fibers winds up between the plates of the upper tensioner. It will prevent the plates from coming together freely. This will interfere with normal tension.
  • Internal parts for defects. Nicks and scratches on the needle plate often affect seam quality. Fibers cling to them, creating stretchy loops at the bottom. Dull or bent needles can also cause tight seams.
  • Correct selection of sewing accessories. Thread and needles should be matched to the material. If you are handling fine delicate fabric, both the fiber and the needle are selected thin. When sewing thick fabrics, the accessories selected must match the thickness of the fabric.



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