Home Article How does the thermostat of a Philips Iron work?

How does the thermostat of a Philips Iron work?

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Philips Iron Temperature Controller. How to disassemble a Philips azur household iron correctly. How hot can a Philips iron get?

If the iron has stopped heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and multimeter, you can do it. On how to repair the iron with his own hands and will tell in this article.

Since the irons are made by so many different companies, they differ slightly in shape, heating rate, quality of parts, etc.д. But the overall design is the same. Available:

  • The soleplate with built-in heating element. If there is a function of the steamer, the soleplate has some number of holes for steam escape.
  • Thermostat with a knob, which allows you to set the desired temperature of heating the soleplate.
  • The tank / reservoir for water, which is used for steaming.
  • There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam output. There is also a steam intensity regulator. It is used to set the frequency of automatic evaporated water delivery.
  • The iron is plugged in with an electrical cord which is attached to the terminal block at the back under the plastic cover.

Once you are generally familiar with what is where, you can begin repairing the iron with your own hands.

What you’ll need for the job

You will need a set of screwdrivers. Phillips screwdriver and flathead screwdriver. for the job. You’ll need a wide knife or an unwanted plastic card to pry up the parts of the iron with the latches. To check the integrity of parts will need a multimeter (how to use it read here). You may need a soldering iron if you need to change some parts.

Tools that may be needed when repairing an iron

Everything, but in the process you will sometimes need electrical tape or heat shrink tubing, you may need sandpaper, pliers, etc.

Types of irons and their construction

If we talk about electric irons, there are three types:

    Normal, non-steaming. They have been unpopular recently, but they are the most inexpensive and compact, and can be purchased as a “travel” option. For traveling, business trips, etc.п.

Steam station or iron with steam generator

The most common. irons with steamers, it is his repair and we will consider further. To begin with, it is worth getting acquainted with its structure. So repairing the iron with your own hands will be easier. Knowing the composition of the device and the purpose of its parts, we can name the possible causes of problems.

If we speak in general terms, each iron consists of a body, a handle, a thermostat and a soleplate with holes through which steam is supplied to the ironing area. The body of the iron has a built in water tank to keep the iron in steam, and there are also regulators for steaming mode intensity.

The general structure of an iron with a steamer

The device of steaming system

Modern electric irons of this type have several modes of steaming. To understand how everything works, it is necessary to consider how it all works. After all, often the repair of the iron with their own hands is needed not because the iron is not warm, but because there is no steam. And here it is important to understand what exactly the problem is.

In modern models, there are three modes of steaming, which have individual buttons. Each button activates its own pump which, depending on the setting, delivers the desired amount of water. There are modes and pumps:

  • Soft (normal) steaming with a steam intensity regulator. You set the regulator to the desired position (usually 4-5 modes) and the steam is supplied continuously (until the water runs out) at certain intervals.
  • Steam Blast. Quick one-shot ejection of steam, which occurs when you press the corresponding button.
  • Drip irrigation. A small amount of water sprays out of a small nozzle on the front of the handle when the button is pressed.

The design of a modern iron with steamer

Simpler models (previous generation) usually have a sprinkler and steam mode. They have a slightly different design. The first difference is that the regulator for soleplate heating is moved to the handle (though not always), the handle also has a steam regulator, but it is made in the form of a rotating disc.

Iron with steam cleaner and sprinkler (without steam impact)

The sprinkler button, in such models of irons, is located between the temperature and steam regulators.

Electrical diagram of the iron

Repairing the iron with your own hands is impossible without the circuit diagram. As you can see, the schematic diagram of an electric iron is not much different from that of a kettle or a boiler. The main differences in the form of heating elements and other “additional” devices.

The circuit has only a few elements: the connection pad, the heating element, the thermostat and thermal protection. Thermal protection can be different. In the simplest case, it is a fuse. The more complicated models have a overheat cutoff device. Since the elements of the circuit are few, the repair of the iron with his own hands. not the most difficult task.

The principle and peculiarities of an electric iron

Considering the technical design and the characteristic features of electric irons, it can be noted that they are quite similar to another category of electric appliances. the kettle. The main element of the construction, without which the normal operation of the device is impossible, is the heating element, which has a power of about 1000-2200 watts.

Apply the required voltage to the iron for correct operation. However, to avoid overheating the heating element and damaging the clothes, the manufacturers equip the devices with a temperature regulator with different modes available to the user.

The following features are characteristic of the vast majority of irons:

  • When turning the special round knob to adjust clockwise, the iron’s soleplate operating temperature increases,
  • Switching on and off the regulator is accompanied by a special click,
  • The main element, by means of which the regulation takes place, is the bimetal plate which expands under the influence of temperature.

The power supply system for the appliance is quite simple and consists of an electrical cord and plug. Due to the peculiarities of the design, in order to repair the cord, it will be necessary to disassemble the iron.

Tefal irons have a specific way of attaching the soleplate to the inner workings of the device. It is carried out both with the help of special latches and with the use of screws, which can be carefully disguised. To this end, they are most often placed under decorative plugs, as well as under the water tank. In order not to compromise the integrity of the structure during disassembly, it is necessary to detect all of them.

An electronic engineer with years of experience. Has been organizing appliance repairs, including washing machines, for several years. Loves sport fishing, boating, and traveling.

Found a mistake? Highlight it and click the buttons:

In the 19th century, washing ladies’ toilets took a lot of time. Dresses were pre-cut, and then washed and dried each part separately, so that the fabric was not deformed. After washing, the garment was sewn back together again.

To wash small items on the road or in a hotel, it is convenient to use a regular plastic bag. Socks or tights are kneaded inside a knotted bag with water and a small amount of detergent. This method allows you to pre-soak things and wash them without damaging the fabric or wasting a lot of powder and water.

Washing machines have something to do with the origin of the expression “money laundering”. In the 1930s, American gangsters used the network of laundromats as a cover for their illegal activities. By passing off the proceeds of criminal activity as the proceeds from cleaning clothes, they turned “dirty” money into “clean” money.

The first officially patented washing machine was made of wood and was a box with a frame filled halfway with wooden balls. Load the laundry and detergent inside and use a lever to move the frame, which in turn makes the balls move and grind the laundry.

Astronauts in orbit solve the problem of dirty clothes with an original method. Clothes are thrown down from the spacecraft and burn up in the upper atmosphere.

History has it that a kitten fell into the drum of a washing machine and got out of the machine safe and sound after a full wash cycle on the “Woolen clothes” program. The only unpleasantness for the pet was an allergy to the detergent.

The expression “soap opera” (“soap”) did not appear by accident. The very first soap operas and shows with a female audience were broadcast on television at a time when housewives were doing the cleaning, ironing, and laundry. In addition, to attract female viewers to the screens, commercials for detergents (soaps and powders) were often aired.

Washing machines equipped with “No Ironing” or “Easy Ironing” functions can wash laundry with little or no crumpling. This effect is achieved by a special approach to spinning. it is performed at low speed, with long pauses, and a small amount of water is stored in the tank.

There is a washing machine “for bachelors”. The laundry, washed in such a machine, does not need to be ironed at all! The thing is that the device does not have a drum: some things can be placed inside the container directly on hangers (for example, jackets and shirts), and smaller things (say, underwear and socks). on special shelves.

An electric iron is one of the most important and simply necessary devices for life in the house. The progress of human development has stepped forward significantly and now you can quickly and comfortably iron any clothes, regardless of the nature of its material.

But at the same time it happens that problems arise, because the technique can stop working. And that’s why you need to know what the cause is, how to troubleshoot it yourself. Specialists believe that 80% of the problems can be solved by yourself.

The basic components of an iron

Let’s first take a look and get acquainted with the design of irons.

How Does an Electric Clothing Iron Works | How Does a Thermostat Works

So, the main elements are the heating element, the soleplate, the power indicator and the thermostat. The heating element is the coil that heats up when electricity is applied to the iron. And it is this coil that heats the soleplate. The indicator light turns on and indicates that the iron is plugged in and in working order.

The appliance heats up to the desired temperature and the indicator light automatically turns off and the light bulb goes out. There are two lights on the iron: green and red.

How to repair a Philips brand iron

In this case, the green one indicates that power is connected to the appliance. And the red light shows that the iron is working, if it is on. it works, if it is not on. it is off. The thermostat regulates the ironing temperature and can be controlled on the body of the device.

All appliances also have a fuse that turns off the heating element if the thermostat does not work and the temperature does not drop, but rises. When the temperature is reduced to a minimum, the thermostat switches back on and the electric current flows to the heater coil.

About the author:

An electronic engineer with many years’ experience. Has spent several years arranging repair of appliances, including washing machines. Loves sport fishing, boating, and traveling.

Found a mistake? Highlight it and click the buttons:

There is a washing machine “for bachelors”. You don’t need to iron laundry after you’ve washed it! The thing is that the device has no drum: some things can be placed inside the container directly on hangers (for example, jackets and shirts), and smaller things (say, underwear and socks). on special shelves.

The expression “soap opera” (“soap”) didn’t appear by accident. The very first shows and shows, the audience of which were women, were broadcasted on TV at a time when housewives were doing the cleaning, ironing and laundry. In addition, to attract viewers to the screens, commercials for detergents (soaps and powders) were often shown on the air.

In the 19th century, washing ladies’ toilets took a lot of time. Dresses were pre-shredded, then washed and dried separately to prevent the fabric from warping. Clothes were sewn again after washing.

To wash small items on the road or in a hotel, it is convenient to use a standard plastic bag. Socks or tights are kneaded inside a knotted bag with water and a little detergent. Such a method allowed to pre-soak the clothes and wash them without damaging them and wasting a lot of powder and water.

does, thermostat, philips, iron

Washing machines with “No Ironing” or “Easy Ironing” functions can wash laundry with little or no crumpling. This is accomplished by a special spinning action, i.e. it is spinning at low speed with long pauses and not much water in the tank.

Washing machines have something to do with the origin of the expression “money laundering”. In the 1930s, American gangsters used a network of laundromats as a cover for their illegal activities. Passing off the proceeds of their criminal activity as proceeds from clothes cleaning, they turned the “dirty” money into “clean” money.

History has it that a kitten fell into the drum of a washing machine and, after going through a complete wash cycle on the program “Woolen Clothes”, made it out of the machine unharmed. The only problem for a pet is an allergy to washing powder.

Astronauts in Earth orbit solve the problem of dirty clothes with an original method. Clothes are dropped from a spaceship and burn up in the upper atmosphere.

The first officially patented washing machine was made of wood and was a box with a frame half filled with wooden balls. The laundry and detergent were loaded inside and a lever was used to move the frame, which, in turn, made the balls move and rub the laundry.

Repair of steam ironing systems

If your ironing press is broken, you should not try to repair it yourself.

It is better to take the defective steam generator to a workshop to have it repaired by experienced professionals.

The steam iron has a more powerful steam system than a conventional iron. Steam temperature in the ironing system is higher than in a regular iron. The principle of the steam generator is that the water is heated in a sealed boiler until it boils, and steam is formed with a temperature up to 145 ° C. Thanks to this steam, the surface is perfectly cleaned.

Steam generators can iron hard to reach areas, some models can iron in vertical position, soleplate of ironing system protects fabrics from damage.

Tools and equipment

To disassemble an iron with a steam generator, you will need the following equipment:

  • Multimeter.
  • Oscillograph.
  • Electric soldering iron.
  • Phillips screwdriver.
  • Flat-blade screwdriver.
  • A tool for wringing the panels.
  • A tool to squeeze hidden latches.
  • LED flashlight.
  • Magnifying glass.
  • Alcohol solution.
  • A cloth (rag).

Panels squeezing device

To disassemble an iron with a steam generator, you will need to remove several panels from the body of the device. For this purpose the manufacturers have provided special gaps (seams) along the body of the steam generator.

Fix the individual elements with metal or plastic latches.

Removing panels and latches at home is quite a challenge. The use of improvised tools such as a knife or screwdriver can leave marks on the housing. Scratches and chips on the casing spoil the appearance of the steam generator.

Service centers use a special tool to squeeze out parts of the steam generator housing. For disassembling the steam generator at home such tools are made by their own hands.

Devices for squeezing panels and latches are made in the form of a thin wooden stick with a beveled bottom end. One wringer is sufficient for removal of small parts. Two pinch-clip tools are required for removing large components and panels.

For your information. Flat, wooden popsicle sticks or plastic coffee stirrers are ideal for making wringers.

Such devices are simple in making and convenient in operation. Using the wringers allows the steam generator to be disassembled without scratching or breaking small parts.

Tools for squeezing latches

Made in the same way as for the panel wringers. Used to remove concealed locks and control buttons.


Using this device, determine the overall integrity of the electric circuit. Also needed to locate where the cable breaks.


Used for detailed investigation of electrical voltage parameters. Needed to determine amplitude and phase shift value.

Electric soldering iron

Used for removing wire breaks in the cable and attachment points to the contact plates.

LED flashlight

Necessary for access to poorly lit and hidden components. Flashlight can be attached to the head with a special strap for convenient operation.

Checking thermostat

The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, on which a disc is then put.

There are two contacts on the plate. Place the stylus of a multimeter on them and check their operability (test). In the “off” position, the multimeter’s sound should disappear; when you turn it on and turn it to any position, it should continue to sound.

The damage could be that there is still no contact in the “on” position. then the iron doesn’t heat at all. It may be a different situation. it is not disconnected by the regulator and/or does not respond to the regulator’s position. Both causes are in the contacts. And they’re probably burnt.

In the first case, may interfere with the fouling, which can be removed by putting between the contacts a piece of sandpaper with fine grain and a couple of times and “slap” on the contacts. If there is no sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you have to act carefully. the temperature settings depend on the curvature of the plates. So, you should not bend them too much.

In the second case if the iron does not stop the contacts could be burnt or melted. The repair of the iron in this case consists in trying to separate them. But such a Focus is rarely possible. The way out is to replace it.

There could be another reason: the contacts may have somehow interlocked when the iron was dropped. When the iron’s soleplate heats up, the bending thermoplastic plate presses against the contact groups, but the contacts can’t open. The result is the same. the iron doesn’t cut out when heated. The repair of iron is also similar, we are trying to return the plates mobility, trying not to bend them. If it doesn’t work. change it.

Checking the fuse

About the same area as the thermostat, there is a thermal fuse. It’s there in case the soleplate of the iron overheats. it blows if the iron heats up to dangerous temperatures. This fuse usually has a protective tube over it and is most often white.

Repairing the iron: Fuse and test it

Find the pins, test the fuse. The fuse normally “rings”, if it has blown. silence. If you want you can move the tube, check directly. it could be a breakage/burning out of a connecting wire. If the fuse is blown, unsolder it, look for a similar one and put it back.

The thermal fuse should not be excluded from the circuit, it will save you from a fire in case of problems with the thermal regulator: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. Even though your iron will need repair, your home will be safe.

Electric iron repair with your own hands

Attention! Exercise caution when repairing an electric iron. Touching the naked parts of the circuit connected to the electric network can cause an electric shock. Do not forget to unplug the plug from the socket!

Any home handyman, even those with no experience in household appliance repair, can do an independent iron repair. After all, there aren’t many electrical components in the iron, and you can check them with any indicator or multimeter. Often an iron is harder to take apart than it is to repair. Let’s look at the disassembly and repair procedure for two Philips and Braun models.

The irons stop working for one of the following reasons, listed according to the frequency of cases: breakage of the power cord, poor contact between the terminals where the cord is connected to the wiring diagram, oxidation of contacts in the thermostat, failure of the thermal fuse.

Checking the power cord for damage

Since when ironing, the power cord is constantly bent, and the biggest bend occurs at the point where the cord enters the iron body, this is where the cord in the cord is usually frayed. This malfunction begins to appear when the iron is still warming up normally, but when ironing the heating indicator is flashing, without the accompanying click of the thermostat switch.

If the insulation of the wires in the cord frayed, then there may be a short circuit with an external manifestation as a flash of fire with a loud pop and trip the circuit breaker in the panelboard. In this case you need to unplug the iron from the socket and do the repair yourself. Short-circuiting the wires in the iron’s cord is not dangerous for humans, but it really impresses housewives.

If the iron has stopped heating, the first thing to do is to check the presence of voltage in the socket by connecting any other electrical appliance, such as a table lamp, or plug the iron into another outlet. Do not forget to turn the temperature regulator on the iron clockwise before doing this, at least to the first circle on the scale. In the leftmost position of the thermostat knob, the iron could be switched off.

If the socket is working and the iron is not heating, with the plug inserted, move the plug to the point where it enters the iron housing, simultaneously pressing it in while observing the on indicator. The same operation must be performed in the area where the cord enters the plug. If the indicator light glows even for a moment, then the iron is definitely a wire break in the power cord, and you will have to take the iron to a service center or repair it yourself.

Using a multimeter or an arrow tester

If you have a multimeter or an arrow tester, you can check the power cord without connecting it to the mains, which is safer, by connecting the probe of the instrument switched to resistance measurement mode to the pins of the mains plug. A working iron should have a resistance of about 30 ohms. Even a slight change in the appliance reading when you move the cord will indicate a broken wire in the appliance. The insulation resistance of the iron, measured between any pin of the plug and its body should be infinity.

If the mains cord is frayed at the point of entry into the electric plug, then there is no need to disassemble the iron, but it will be enough to replace the plug with a new one, cutting it off at the point where the wire is damaged.

If the power cord is frayed at the point of inlet in the iron, or the suggested method did not allow you to determine the fault of the cord, you will have to take the iron apart. Disassembly of the iron begins with removing the back cover. Difficulties may arise here due to the lack of a suitable screwdriver bit. For example I don’t have a spline bit with a pin in the center and I use a flat screwdriver with a suitable width of blade to unscrew such screws. After you remove the lid from the iron, all the pins you need to locate the faulty part in the iron will be available. It will be possible to check the integrity of the power cord, the efficiency of the heating element and the thermostat without further disassembly of the iron.

As you can see on the photo of a Philips iron, from the cord come out three wires, connected via captive terminals to the pins of the iron in different colors. The color of the insulation is the marking of the wires.

Although there is no international standard yet, but most European and Asian appliance manufacturers accept yellow-green

The color of the insulation is used to mark the grounding wire (which is usually written in Latin letters PE), brown is for the phase wire (L), light blue is for the neutral wire (N). The letter designation is usually printed on the body of the iron next to the corresponding terminal.

Conductor in yellow-green insulation

The color is grounding, serves to ensure safety, and does not affect the operation of the iron. The leads in brown and light blue insulation are current-carrying, so it is necessary to check them.

Using a table lamp

There are many ways to check the iron’s power cord, and it all depends on what tools are at hand. If you don’t have any tools handy, you can use the easiest way.

To do this, you must first remove the cord terminals from the iron‘s leads. The clamps on the iron’s terminals are usually held in place by pawls, and to remove them easily, you must use a sharp object to squeeze the pawl, as shown in the photo. At the same time it is necessary to examine the contacts for oxidation or burning, and if they are present, clean the contacts from below and above with fine sandpaper until they shine. If the terminals are put on without effort, you need to press them with pliers. Step-by-step instructions for repairing terminal connections in pictures are given in the article “Reconnecting terminals”. After that it is necessary to put the terminals back in their places and check the work of the iron by connecting it to the network. It is quite possible that this is the problem and the iron will work.

If the terminal connections are okay, you need to remove the terminals connected to the brown and blue wires and connect them to the pins of the plug of any electrical appliance with insulating tape, the best way to do this is a table lamp with an incandescent or LED light bulb. The switch in the table lamp should be in the on position. Then plug the iron in and crumple the iron wire at the place where it enters the body and at the plug. If the table lamp is shining steadily, then the iron wire is fine, and you have to keep looking for the problem.

No steam, no water splashing

If the iron has been in use for a long time, the owner may encounter a situation where the iron stops steaming. At the same time, it turns on properly and maintains the temperature according to the selected mode.

There are two possible causes of faults:

If the iron is filled with hard water, after a few months of operation sediment in the tubes, nozzles, holes in the soleplate can accumulate in such quantities that they block the output of steam.

To clear the clog, you need to descale the iron according to the instructions. A clogged nozzle can be cleaned mechanically, using a sharp needle. If necessary, you can use the following descalers:

does, thermostat, philips, iron
  • Citric acid, baking soda or vinegar poured into the tank in certain proportions.
  • Chemicals: MAGIC POWER, Topperr, Top House, etc.

Electric circuit

The iron’s electrical diagram is shown on the sketch below. Figure.:

Circuit diagram of a steam iron

does, thermostat, philips, iron

The KM relay and the SK position sensor form the position protection. On the same board can be located the on indicator, which in this case is LED, not neon. The position protection can be switched off without affecting the consumer qualities of the iron, but if the indicator is LED, then it will stop working if the “positioner” is completely switched off. This is inconvenient, so a faulty position protection should be disabled partially (see. further).

The indexed numbers show the sequence of the hot and cold test with a multimeter: Connect one probe with an alligator clip to the mains plug pin and with the other to the points. Both indicators should converge on contacts of KM relay. The thing is that the KM contacts are normally open: when the iron is plugged in and the contacts of the KM thermostat are closed, its contacts are closed and the current flows through them to the heater. This is to ensure that any malfunction of the position protection itself will turn off the heating element (principle of redundant safety), but inexperienced craftsmen can be misled by this circumstance.

Connecting the wires with the cap connector

Note: when you check it you might find a loose connection in the connection cap, see the picture. Figure. right. The only way out is to bite it off and rewire it.

Checking the iron’s power cord with a table lamp

You can check the power cord on your iron in different ways. It will only depend on what you have available. If you don’t have any devices in your house, then you can check the iron with a table lamp. To do this, you need to squeeze the latch as shown in the photo.

Now you need to shine up the pins. If your terminals will put on effortlessly, then you need to use pliers to tighten them. It may well be that this was the problem. If everything is okay, then you need to connect the table lamp plug to the blue and brown wires. The switch, which is located in the table lamp, must always be in the on position. If the desk lamp will shine steadily, then the device is fully serviceable.

Repairing the iron with your own hands

One of the main household appliances in the house is an electric iron. But sometimes it is necessary to make repairs to the iron with their own hands.

The patent for the invention of the electric iron, as an item of household appliance for smoothing creases and creases in clothing, was registered June 6, 1882, in the name of Waley Henry W.

And the first lightweight electric heating iron was invented in 1903 by Earl Richardson.

Since the advent of electricity and the development of technology, there have been electric irons.

In terms of electrical engineering, the principle of their work is based on the release of thermal energy when passing an electric current through a resistive heating element.

The design of a domestically made iron is shown in Fig.1.

Alphabetic symbols are deciphered as follows: UT. iron with thermostat; UTP. iron with thermostat and steam humidifier; UTPR. iron with thermostat, steam humidifier and sprinkler; UTU. iron with thermostat, weighted.

Numerical symbols are deciphered as follows: the first number following the letter indicators means the power consumption of the iron (in W); the second number stands for its weight (in kg).

For example the marking UTP1000-1,8 means “an iron with a thermostat and a steam humidifier with the power 1000 W (1 kW) and the weight 1,8 kg”.

The iron’s weight is the focus of attention, since it affects the maximum heating time of the soleplate.

There is a pattern: for lightweight irons, such as the UT1000-1.2, the maximum time to heat up the soleplate is 2.5 minutes; for heavier irons, such as the UT1000-2.5, up to 7.5 minutes.

The main elements of the iron are the aluminum or cast iron soleplate with a pressed heating element (TEN), the body and the automatic thermostat.

The control handle axis of the thermostat is moved out of the iron body.

To monitor the condition of the heating elements an indicator (signal) light is mounted in the iron body.

When the iron reaches the set temperature, the heating element automatically turns off and the indicator light goes out. There are variants with two lamps, green and red, in this case the green lamp signalizes that the iron is plugged in and 220 V is being supplied to it, and the red one indicates the heating element switching on and off.

The indicator light of 3.5 volt (0.26 A current) is fed by the voltage drop on a piece of nichrome spiral, connected in series with the heating element. The coil is insulated with tubes. The heating element, coil, indicator light socket and power cord are connected to a three-pin terminal block inside the back part of the iron’s handle.

The electric circuitry of the irons has not undergone any changes in principle. The only thing that has been added is a thermal fuse, which turns off the heating element if the main regulator does not work, and the soleplate temperature exceeds the temperature of operation of the thermal fuse.

The electric diagram of the iron is given in Fig.2

If your iron breaks, please don’t throw it out or replace it with another iron.In 85% of cases it can be restored to working condition and the iron can be repaired with your own hands.

In 15% of cases, when the heating element burns out, repairing the iron becomes unprofitable. If this is the case, it is better to buy a new iron from a store.

The home handyman’s workshop will always have the necessary tools to repair your iron with their own hands:

The biggest challenge in repairing modern irons is taking them apart. Designers dictate their own rules, so all the screws that fasten the construction are hidden, and it is hard to find them. It is impossible to describe all the designs, there are a great many of them, but there are some general principles:

  • The plastic body of the iron is always fastened to the soleplate with screws
  • Screws are usually hidden under decorative plugs, light filters for light bulbs, water tank for the steaming system.
  • Try not to break the plastic tabs on the parts
  • You should always try to disassemble the iron so that after reassembly you won’t be ashamed to look at your work.

1.Before you begin repairing the iron, you must first assess the external manifestations of the malfunction. If when you switch the iron into the electric network, none of the lights are lit in all positions of the thermostat, the first suspicion falls on the faulty cord.

The breakage of the power cord strands usually occurs in the place where it is inserted into the handle of the iron. Since the input is movable, the cord is constantly subjected to bending in the process of ironing.

Remove the back cover of the iron by removing the fixing screws. Use an electric tester to check the continuity of the power cord and plug.

To do this, connect one probe of the tester to the pins of the electric plug in turn. and the other probe. the same in turn. Connect to the wires of the electrical cord in the body of the iron.

The electric tester must be set to the minimum ohmmeter value (Ohm). If the electric plug and cord are intact. the buzzer of the tester will make a sound. “beep”.

How an Electric iron thermostat work

If the buzzer does not “beep”, then the electric cord and the electric plug are defective.

Such a breakdown does not require a complete replacement of the cord, the repair consists in restoring its integrity: the cord is cut at the point of fracture, the screw clip is released from pieces of veins, re-grasp the end of the cord length required and reinsert it into the terminal block.

The electric plug is disassembled, cut off the cord in the place of the breakage, stripped of insulation and connect the cord to the plug pins and then reassemble it. If the euro-plug is not demountable, then to replace it you need to buy a collapsible electric euro-plug in a store.

If the cord and the euro-plug are intact, then the temperature regulator (thermostat) should be checked.

The core of the thermostat is a bimetallic plate that controls a quick-acting switch.

Repair of the iron

Currently there is a huge number of irons from different manufacturers. Sooner or later, there may be various kinds of breakdowns, which require the repair of the iron. It is especially frustrating when the iron breaks at the most inopportune moment.

The main breakdown most often seen with most irons is the cessation of heating. If there is a breakdown, first of all, the iron must be disassembled.

Disassembling the case is a more complicated process than the subsequent repair. Nevertheless, it is necessary to disassemble it, and, to begin with, the back cover is opened, where the electric cord is connected.

Usually, the lid is screwed on with screws.

With the lid open, the first thing to check is whether the electric cord is working properly. As a rule, the cord is checked with a tester. In another case, the socket with an ordinary 220 volt bulb, is connected to the terminals where the cord begins, after which, the plug is plugged into the socket.

The main reason for the malfunction

Most often the core of the cord is broken where it enters the housing. In such a situation, the electric cord can be simply shortened a little. If it turns out that the cord and plug are in good condition, then you need to check the condition of the internal elements of the iron.

To do this, the upper part is disconnected from the soleplate, and it is very important to find all the fixing points with screws.

The screws can be located anywhere, such as under the temperature regulator knob, under the pouring hole cover, or under the indicator light cover.

In addition to screws, there may be additional fasteners in the form of snaps, gently pressed with a screwdriver. When disassembling, it is a good idea to remember the fastening and positioning of the assemblies, so that you don’t have any trouble reassembling the iron at a later time.

Faulty heating elements

Inside the iron is the main heating element embedded in the edge of the soleplate. Besides there is a thermoregulator with thermal fuse, pressed to the soleplate with the help of a clamp.

Each item is checked by a tester and a decision is made whether to repair or replace the parts. If the contacts of the thermostat can not be tested, it is possible that the problem will be solved by scraping them with emery paper or a nail file.

If the fuse blows, it is removed from the circuit. If the iron works fine without the fuse, the defective part should be replaced.

When the repair of the iron is finished, it should be reassembled in the same sequence as it was disassembled.



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