The fuses in the cabin are located in the area of the left knee of the driver. To access them, you need to pry open the lid with your fingers and remove it.
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The fan runs on a cold motor: causes, diagnosis, repair
To begin with, this problem can clearly indicate a malfunction of the liquid cooling system, as well as a malfunction of the fan itself. In any case, we are talking about a breakdown, which can not be ignored, as the risk of overheating the internal combustion engine is significantly increased.
For better understanding it is necessary to consider superficially the principle of operation of the fan on most modern cars. Blowing is activated by a special sensor, which is located at the bottom of the radiator. Also many cars have a separate control unit for engine cooling fan. There are also models in which the ECU itself is responsible for turning on the fan, but this design is rarely used.
As you can see, the fan should not run when the engine is cold. So, to determine why there is an early switch on the fan, for injector vehicles with a diagnostic connector OBD II is recommended to start with the computer diagnostics of the car. The matter is that the possibility to read out of ECU error codes allows defining more exactly the cause of malfunction.
Also note that in cases where the control unit detects errors in the cooling system, the fan can spin immediately after turning on the ignition, even in a cold engine. This feature is found only on some models and is, in fact, a protection against overheating of the power unit, as a constantly running fan reduces the temperature.
After repairing in this case you will also need to do an error reset. To erase the error from the ECU, on some models, it is enough to remove the terminal from the battery for a couple of minutes, while on other models the resetting is done with the diagnostic equipment.
Common cooling fan problems
Now let’s look at the common problems that are associated with the cooling system and the fan itself.
- First of all, in many cases the contacts of the air system sensor are shorted. In this case, the blower is triggered immediately after the ignition is turned on.
In the process of diagnosis on a cold sensor, measure the resistance at the outputs using a multimeter. Deviations from the norm will indicate the need to replace the element.
- There is not enough coolant in the liquid system. In this case the fan actuation is due to the fact that a small amount of antifreeze or heating water heats up very quickly. In other words, the fan is functioning and starts up naturally.
As a rule, leaks or drop of coolant level in the expansion tank are the main reason. Note that the antifreeze is a mixture of concentrate and water. The water gradually evaporates from the system, causing the level to drop. For this reason it is recommended to check and refill liquid periodically by special marks.
The fan in this case can short-circuit the battery and work nonstop. In such situation it is necessary to check all contacts, wiring and other elements. Wires should be safely insulated and properly connected.
- The fan sensor that is integrated into the thermostat housing is defective. Many modern cars are equipped with thermostat which is united with a fan control sensor.
Such a solution allows to realize flexible control of the engine cooling system. However, if the temperature sensor in the thermostat housing is malfunctioning, then the fan may start to run without shutting down. The matter is that control unit starts to receive incorrect signals about how the thermostat works. As a result, emergency mode is activated, the fan turns on and runs all the time.
In such situation you need to check the sensor with a multimeter. In normal conditions its resistance is infinite when the engine is cold, in other cases it should amount to 100 500 Ohm. The deviations from normal values will indicate that the sensor must be replaced with a new or known good one.
- Outside air temperature sensor is out of order. This problem is encountered on some vehicles equipped with ambient air temperature sensors. If the temperature is above the permissible limit, then these sensors activate the fan.
This solution allows you to cool the power unit more effectively, especially on cars that have a powerful forced combustion engine and several radiators. In such units the fan can turn on during the warm season even when the internal engine is cold to protect the engine from overheating.
To solve the problem, you may need to clean the outside of the air conditioner radiator and the radiator of the cooling system. The thing is that these radiators are next to each other, between them there is dirt, dust and fluff. Removal of such “fur” allows you to normalize the air conditioning system and engine cooling, get rid of frequent activation of the fan and increased noise during its operation.
- Problems with wiring and electrical contacts. Regardless of how the fan is controlled, contacts are a common cause of malfunction.
In order to avoid this situation, experienced drivers recommend cleaning contacts before the onset of winter and summer in order to prevent. It is also common practice to treat the contacts with special lubricants and protective compounds.
Tell me what the problem may be? The engine warms up the arrow always shows above average and does not drop below average almost never
It’s normal chinese quality.You only need to go to the Celestial Empire. they will fix it for sure.)))))))))
The Geelys have undergone modernization and two fans were installed on the radiator.
The cause of overheating may be due to lint that accumulates between the two radiators (you must remove the air conditioner radiator and clean it with a vacuum cleaner).
The fan speed (if the second speed does not work, the engine temperature will not reset as it should be)
One of the fans is defective (change the fuse fits from vase)
The radiator is located close like the new Aveo.Lancer 9 and t.I wrote about this already that this is not good. The exhaust manifold heats the radiator in the heat.
If it is, I’m not sure what the problem is. Above the midpoint is approximately what temperature? The arrow goes into the red zone?
No, the arrow does not go to the red zone. but is always in a position above normal
Well, it’s a stretch from one engine to the next. The settings are different. For example, in my Zhigul Classica normal temperature is 82-85C, and in traffic jams the fan is working at 92C. In Samara 2 is a bit different 88-89C at normal running, in corks the fan gets on at 101C. It is on the board control. And the pointer is roughly shown, originally thought that the fan is triggered at 105C.
So it is hard to say, maybe it is normal in Zhili, although if initially it was not so according to observations it is possible something happened. There’s a good chance there’s something wrong with the thermostat. Check coolant level in radiator if even the expansion tank is normal. Possible air lock. And the popliteal fluff is unlikely.
The thermostat has nothing to do with it. I got a Japanese one for 480 with no change. On the highway, below the midpoint in traffic more than the midpoint.
If it does not reach the red zone, why bother to fill your head with mud?
If the air conditioner is on, the fan starts blowing?
Forced fan switch on. Geely CK, 1.5 л., 2012 on DRIVE2
In general, our car is very good at keeping the operating temperature around 80 degrees (or the center of the scale), no matter the city or highway, but when the temperature becomes 40 and above on the street of our car begins to potrushivat, and she begins to overheat, and in addition I have more and began beeping alternator belt and happened in Rostov on the city corks with an average speed of 100 m / h As soon as I found a place in this glorious city where you can stop, so as not to burn the strap, took out the fan relay and closed the contacts with a piece of wire for forced fan engagement, this solution is suitable for an emergency case, but run to remove the wire and put it on extremely uncomfortable finalize the circuit including the right fan from the cabin, regardless of the ECU!
To do this, you will need to remove the top of the mounting block and at the very bottom connector find a thick black and red wire for easy access remove the middle connector
the exhaust wire is the supply to the fan, the power for the fan is taken from the mounting on the terminal.Now control additional relay winding forced turn on the valve, the main control from the cabin with a button with a lock, the button puts the winding of the relay on the ground, I put the button next to the diagnostic block since there is a permanent minus (black wire pads) for the winding of the relay we take from the wire going to the ignition coil and this appears only in the ignition key-ignition is on. This connection is convenient because by turning off the ignition and we turn off the relay and the valve itself, regardless of the position of the button.
Geely mk at what temperature the fan turns on
Good afternoon forum users. I was cruising along the highway, and the air conditioner stopped blowing. go out and have a look, but no, i shut it off, open the window and keep going. Dropping off a passenger and stalling. ♪ I see it’s boiling ♪. fans aren’t spinning. I turn on the heater, cursing myself and thinking of the worst. Coolant’s sprayed all over the place through the expansion tank. ♪ the tank itself is empty ♪. with the help of my adviser I take off the 3-pin plug from the coolant sensor. fans start working. they’ve cooled down. the pipes are flattened like a vacuum. they say it’s OK. open the radiator cap, the air blew out the radiator cap. I refilled the coolant. It’s still a long way to go. periodically stop to check the level. ok. but the level was low again. tank is empty. I refill the coolant. I get home a little bit. near my house I look and my pipes are like a vacuum again. tomorrow, look at the oil level. normal, no emulsion. they say to unscrew the plugs to make sure the gasket is not punctured. the question is why the fans didn’t turn on? the sensor’s dead? could it be because of the thermostat. and can all this be linked to a failure of the air conditioner or vice versa a failure of the air conditioner.this is a consequence of the above? Sorry for the stupid questions and too many letters, I am far from it, I just wanted to describe the situation in detail.
- My car:Geely MK Cross
- Year of manufacture:2013
- Engine displacement.5
- Transmission:Manual Transmission
- Garage cars:
- Geely MK Cross (2013)
When I turned on the heater the hot air was? If so, chances are there was no overheating. And the plug must be replaced, of course
- Town:Mikhnevo Settlement
- My Car:Geely MK Cross
- Year of production:2012
- Engine displacement:1.5
- Transmission:Manual Transmission
Hi folks! Who knows how the cooling system should work? Namely:
At what temperature should the cooling fans turn on??
Which fan is responsible for air conditioning, which one is responsible for engine cooling (or do they work in tandem?)?
Do they (fans) have speed (rpm) or do they rotate at a constant speed (if there is an additional resistor, or software control?)?
The question arose in connection with overheating (boiled. ). Before, even in extreme heat, I had no problem with overheating, or traffic jams, or whatever. over, when I was standing in traffic in the heat, at first I did not hear the fans work, but when the temperature rose, the fan worked at high speed and in five minutes turned off, everything was normal!
It was time to change the pump! After all, I’ve driven more than 200,000 km! It was leaking and after replacement this shit happened! Maybe it’s not working at all, I mean, some kind of key in it broke off and it’s not running coolant through the engine? I must say, the air conditioner is not involved, as I do not use it for three or four years (removed the belt cooler drive (very annoying squeaking tensioner. ), for not for this engine (not enough power) air conditioner (strictly personal opinion!) And, frankly speaking, the design of the air conditioning system is not very good with our Asian partners. ). If anyone has any experience in this area I would be glad to get any advice!
- My Car:Geely MK Cross
- Year of manufacture:2013
- Engine volume:1.5
- Cars from the garage:
- Geely MK Cross (2013)
1,2,3 I have both fans turn on at the same time the first speed at 89, the second at 92, and you have not written 4 five minutes is a lot, should cool down faster help clean the radiator outside and inside 5 did not understand what the hell started after replacing the pump 6 did not say anything about the thermostat, air tightness of the heating system, etc
- Town:Mikhnevo Settlement
- My Car:Geely MK Cross
- Year of manufacture:2012
- Engine displacement:1.5
- Transmission:manual transmission
Thanks for the reply. Yes, missed some points, I stand corrected!
Point 4 may not be five minutes, may actually cooled faster, I did not time it on purpose, but the essence of the process did not change, t.е. in a traffic jam in the heat the engine heated up, then the fan worked (maybe the fans, I have not looked under the hood), it was clearly felt by the sound, that it worked at high revolutions, then turned off and all was normal. I also thought it might be because of a clogged radiator honeycomb. Washed with a kerosher, I think the blades are not bent, it was not very dirty, but the radiator is a little cleaner. It had no special effect on the radiator either.
Point 5, the problem with overheating and antifreeze boils. This is the first time I’ve ever seen that on this car. Because if the antifreeze is boiling, it’s already about 130-140 degrees. Depends on the antifreeze. Thank goodness the head didn’t overturn.
Point 6. thermostat seems to be working, all hoses are hot (upper and lower), heating hoses, of course, also. Thought I was lying about the temperature sensor, which is a three-pin and is located on the water distribution box. Checked the temperature on the phone via OBD II Wi-Fi, it seemed to show the right temperature, so it is not the sensor. By the way, how many of them on the Cross one or two. I read the manual on the MC, it says that there are two of them on the MCK, I have not found the second! As for the tightness of the antifreeze leaks did not see anywhere, the only moment the radiator cap, something there it seems to me a little melted, the rubber somehow popped out, not even the first time I managed to put the cap on the neck. Is there a valve or not, also it is not clear.
One more thing: when it boiled over, I stopped, opened the hood, touched the fan relays, one of them was hot. It seems to me that the relay should not be this hot, not warm, but hot. The fans still don’t go to second speed (if they should at all). Also wrote in this thread that after stopping the engine, the fans still work for a while, I have never had this happen stalled the engine, stop fans!
That’s about all for now. I apologize for such an extensive description, but, man, in this heat the topic is more than relevant. Thanks in advance for answers and advices!
You need to do the following.
information about Geely MK. See in Search at the top right of this page.
How to check the cooling system of Geely CK
The cooling system is designed to dissipate heat from the motor and provides optimal temperature conditions, allowing the unit to function reliably and smoothly.
The Geely CK is equipped with a liquid engine cooling system with forced circulation of antifreeze. The total coolant volume (including expansion tank) is 5.3 liters.
The engine coolant system is designed to maintain the engine coolant at 90 degrees Celsius in all operating conditions. Otherwise, the pressurized hot fluid can splash and cause burns.
Why does the engine cooling fan not run?
When the engine is running, the temperature in the combustion chambers reaches about 1500-2000 degrees Celsius. If the heat is not removed from the walls of the cylinders, the engine overheating is inevitable, and as a result, a costly repair or replacement.
To maintain the engine thermal operating mode (90 degrees) in all operating conditions, there is a cooling system. It includes the following elements:
The radiator; the expansion tank; the pump; the thermostat; the fan; the temperature and fan activation sensors; a set of connecting pipes; the heater radiator; the antifreeze.
While the thermostat is closed, the working fluid circulates in a so-called small circle with the help of the pump, cooling the cylinder block and head and diverting some of the heat energy. When the thermostat is opened, the fluid flows in a large circle to the radiator.
While driving, the radiator surface is blown by a flow of oncoming air, reducing the temperature of the working fluid. However, the radiator itself can not prevent overheating, for example, when the car stands in traffic jams or driving for a long time at low speed.
To help the radiator in the cooling system of the power unit and is built in the fan, as one of its main executive elements, and if it fails, it can cause a number of unwanted problems.
How the fan works
On older generation cars, the fan was forced, that is, it always worked as long as the engine was running, by the drive belt. The fan itself is usually mounted on the pump pulley, connected to the alternator pulley with a belt.
Most modern cars use electric fan, or drive with a viscous clutch (viscous clutch), where it is triggered automatically by the trigger sensor (calibrated separately for each engine).
The fan is a simple 12V electric motor, which operates from the car’s mains. On its shaft is installed propeller to create an air flow directed at the radiator honeycomb. The fan itself has a mounting frame to connect it to the radiator.
switching on is controlled by an activation sensor located in one of the radiator tanks. It is installed in the gap of fan motor power wires.
The sensor fan is programmed for a certain temperature limit, at which the contacts actuate, sending power to the relay, which closes the fan power circuit, and it starts to work.
Fan on these machines is switched on via control box. The controller receives data from the sensor, then transmits it to the relay to turn on the motor.
Possible causes of fan failure
In cases when the temperature of the antifreeze suddenly went up, and the fan on the radiator did not work, then, therefore, where the problem appeared. The car must be stopped and the fault must be eliminated to prevent overheating and save the engine from costly repairs.
Disconnection or short circuit in electric motor supply circuit;
Bad contact in the connection or oxidation of the contacts in the fan circuit;
Failure of safety valve in the expansion tank.
On engines with injector disconnected sensor by removing the connector from it, the engine starts and if the fan worked (ECU “will understand” that the system malfunction and turns on the fan in the emergency mode), then the sensor is faulty and you need to replace it.
The valve keeps the system pressurized above atmospheric pressure, and does not allow the water in the service fluid to boil when it reaches 100 degrees Celsius. If the valve is defective, the pressure equalizes with the atmospheric pressure and the liquid boils over already at 100 degrees.
The sensor itself will trip at 105 to 107 degrees Fahrenheit. The fluid is boiling but the fan has not yet started. Replace the cap and valve.
A few tips
Periodically monitor the temperature of the coolant and check the operation of the fan when you enter the danger zone on the gauge;
Check the fluid level in the tank and replenish it as necessary;
Monitor the system for possible fluid leakage;
If the operating temperature is exceeded, stop, find and correct the cause;
For the season, make it a rule to flush the expansion tank cap under water pressure, which will help to keep the safety valve clean;
On engines where the fan is forced, periodically check the tension of the fan drive belt.
General information on the Geely MK / MK-2 from 2006 / Geely GC6 from 2014
Check coolant system for leaks
Important: Do not remove the radiator cap when the coolant is hot, otherwise you may be injured, because the coolant will be pressurized.
Fill the radiator with coolant up to the level of the filler neck, and connect the tester.
Create a pressure of 118 kPa, and check for a drop in pressure. If the pressure drops, there is evidence of coolant leakage.
Check that there are no coolant leaks from (hose connections or hoses) of the cooling system.
When removing the tester to check the radiator plug from the radiator neck, care must be taken to avoid splashing (leaking) of coolant.
When connecting and disconnecting the tester and while checking, be careful not to deform the radiator filler cap.
If there is a coolant leak, repair or replace the leaking parts.
Check the coolant level
The coolant level should be between the “LOW” and “FULL” marks.
Overheating Help! | Testing Cooling Fans. Relays. Connections
Notice: If the coolant level is too low, check and be sure there are no leaks, then fill the coolant to the “FULL” mark.
Check coolant properties
Attention: Do not remove the radiator cap when the coolant temperature is high, it can cause injuries, because the coolant is then under pressure.
Check that there are no significant deposits, rust or other defects in the radiator cap area. Do not allow oil to get into the coolant.
Note: If the coolant is too dirty, change the coolant.
Immerse the thermostat in a vessel of water, and heat the water while stirring at the same time. Measure the temperature at which the valve starts to open.
Note: Valve start temperature rating: 80. 84ºC.
Measure the valve stroke at a water temperature that corresponds to its full open position.
Measure the distance from the underside of the valve to the thermostat body when the thermostat is fully closed, then fully open, then calculate the stroke.
Note: Ratings are nominal:. Temperature of full opening of the thermostat valve: 95ºC Length of full stroke of the valve: 8.0 mm or more.
At temperatures below 77 ºC the thermostat must be fully closed.
At low coolant temperature (below 83ºC), check cooling fan operation.
1). Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position.
2). The cooling fan must be stopped.
3). Disconnect coolant temperature sensor connector.
5). Check if the cooling fan is spinning.
6). Connect the coolant temperature sensor connector.
If coolant temperature is high (less than 93ºC), check cooling fan operation.
1). Start the engine and wait until the coolant temperature is above 93ºC.
2). Check if the cooling fan is spinning. If not, replace the coolant temperature sensor.
Check the cooling fan.
1). Disconnect cooling fan connector.
2). Connect the battery and ammeter to the connector.
3). The cooling fan must run continuously and check the ammeter reading.
Note: Typical reading: 5.7 to 7.7A.
4). Connect cooling fan connector.
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