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Gas reducer atiker 2 generation adjustment

Atiker 2nd generation gas reducer adjustment

The need still arose to rewrite an article on adjusting a 2-generation gas reducer, by several methods. Served this eternal disputes and disagreements among craftsmen and we have a channel on YouTube as the same controversy. And there are so many arguments and so many opinions too. Someone is screaming that the Simplified method is wrong and who uses it is an idiot and trying to prove that the PROPERTY method is the best.

We will go with you the other way. I will not prove to anyone the advantage of this or that method, wasting your and my time. We will do a more diplomatic way, describe both methods for comparison. You yourself can try both methods and decide what suits you best. I think this will be more literate)).

So there are two methods of tuning clutch halogen 2:

1 PROCESSED (sensitivity bolt greed bolt)

I will briefly describe the EXTRAORDINARY why it exists and takes place. In this method, the idling speed adjustment is adjusted precisely by the Membrane Sensitivity Bolt as it is commonly called in the manufacturer’s manual. The idle stroke adjustment bolt (often in brass on the Tomasetto AT-07) is completely closed and does not take any part in the adjustment. The method is suitable for drivers who have little understanding of cars, drive moderately and rarely use the manner of aggressive driving. This method is good that in case of failure of the reducer for any reason, the driver immediately understands that it is time to go to the technician for diagnosis.

Since the sensitivity screw of the diaphragm is responsible for the idle speed, the gas supply in the reducer is clearly controlled by the diaphragm. It is quite thin and sensitive and as it ages (gets stale) the idle starts to malfunction. That is, if the membrane has lost its normal properties of work and is no longer as sensitive, then the idle stroke becomes unstable. The driver, realizing this simply goes to the master and the master, after a diagnosis will easily understand what is wrong with the reducer and what is its condition. The driver will understand whether to repair or replace the gearbox for a new one.

The method is simple and you can adjust it yourself without a master. Does not affect the flow rate, the reception is affected only in cases where an aggressive driving style is used. At aggressive driving the car will be a bit slow and the consumption will go up at those moments.

Simplified method. PRINCIPLE SETUP (sensitivity bolt. greed bolt).The sensitivity bolt on the diaphragm is tightened all the way to the slight stop. Now unscrew the sensitivity bolt 5 turns from the twisted position.

-Greedy bolt (FIRST CAMERA) on the hose is also screwed to a small stop. Now unscrew the bolt of greed 3 turns from the twisted position.

A little bit about the greed bolts there are two types: 1 type is the usual through-type with one handle for adjusting there is no point in describing.

2- slingshot type similar with two bolts for adjustment.

1- the bolt is connected (for example, on carbureted cars) to the primary chamber which is considered as the main one when setting up if the carbureted type of injection. It is easy to find because it is located in the choke. In the following description (ADVANCED SETTINGS) there will be a discussion about the secondary chamber.

2) the bolt is connected to the secondary chamber of the carburetor. The secondary chamber is needed in fact for more increased engine speed. And it works at the moment when the engine speed reaches more than 3000 rpm. min. And this is a more aggressive method of driving. And we don’t need this chamber yet in this method ( SIMPLE ). CLOSE THE SECONDARY CHAMBER COMPLETELY AND DO NOT TOUCH IT WITH THIS METHOD.)

(Do not overtighten the bolts, as you can break the threads on the plastic parts.)

-Start the car on gasoline warm up to full working conditionRaise engine RPM on gasoline, about 3000 rpm. min. lock the throttle any way you want, but NOT with the throttle. А. Switch to gas if your car is injected or mono. Б. We switch to the position EXCEEDING the rest of PETROL, after the exhaustion we switch to gas.

if the car stalls, try again, maybe the gas mixture did not make it to the engine or the bolts that we were turning were not set correctly. We adjusted it so that the gas mixture would go to the engine, but this does not mean that it will be correct. It is important to find the position of the bolts when the car will run on gas and it does not matter how it works as long as it does not stall. Play with the bolts by unscrewing or tightening them in sync. It is important not to stall and somehow make the car run on gas at high revolutions.

POWER. Greedy bolt (power bolt) Now it is necessary to adjust correct high revolutions, approximately the same as on petrol which were. Since you have not yet set these revolutions, start tightening the greedy bolt on the hose (1 chamber for the carburettor cars). Tightening the bolt, we will hear the engine RPM will start to drop, so we understand that if you twist further, the car will definitely stall. It is necessary to determine in what position the bolt is in, because the revolutions can also be lowered because of the rich mixture at the too unscrewed position of the bolt. And we need the mixture not rich with gas but on the contrary poor with gas.

If the mixture is rich, then loosening the bolt of greed will not fall, and will remain the same, and if they began to fall, then we are on the right track And so, realizing that further tightening does not make sense, begin to loosen the bolt of greed (1 chamber carburetor cars) unscrew smoothly and listen to the engine speed, they will begin to rise. DISCONNECTING until the revolutions stop rising. IMPORTANT. do not miss this point.

As soon as the RPMs stop rising stop, this is the Moment we need, let’s call it the RPM Peak Moment. At this peak of the greed bolt torque, the engine gets exactly the portion of gas that the engine needs for normal operation, power. The engine by its operational characteristics and wear on service life, will show you by revolutions, when to stop the Greedy bolt.

. For those who have a LAMBDA SOUND EMULATOR with a light indicator on the mixture: The emulator is an indispensable thing in this business and helps a lot in tuning, if certainly your lambda probe is in good working order. With a properly matched mixture at higher rpm 3000 rpm. Min.(power) the bulb should glow green, not red. If the red light is on, the mixture is rich and it is necessary to tighten the greedy bolt until the green light comes on.

With the power taken care of, we can begin to adjust the idle speed. Reset the idle speed by returning the throttle back to its normal position. Most likely the car will stall because the idle speed is not set correctly, but only approximately.

IDLE. (diaphragm sensitivity bolt is black plastic).Membrane sensitivity bolt should be tightened just to understand its position and then, having tightened it just a little bit, loosen it 3 turns. Try to start the car on gas if it does not idle or does not start. Turn back one turn. Trying to start again. If it does not hold idle, then turn it back to 1 turn.

IMPORTANT. do not turn it more than 1 turn because you might miss the right moment. In short, you need to find the position of the sensitivity bolt of the diaphragm, when the car starts and somehow hold idle RPM and does not stall.

Now we need to find our stable and correct idle speed. Start tightening the bolt a little bit until you feel that the machine is about to stall. From this moment start to loosen the bolt a little bit at a time and smoothly. Since everyone has a different length of feed hose from the manifold to the reducer, the reaction when you unscrew the bolt will not be immediate. Do this procedure slowly with a short delay so that the new gas reaches the engine and burns off. loosening the bolt you have found the engine stable idling, wait for the fan to start (additional load), you can turn on the heater fan and the dipped beam. This will also put a strain on the engine. If you notice that the idle RPM has dropped, adjust the VOLUME BLADE screw a bit to keep the engine stable.

. For those who have the lambda probe emulator with a light indicating the mixture: The lambda probe emulator is an indispensable thing in this business and helps a lot in tuning, if of course your lambda probe is in good condition. With the right mix at idle, the light should glow red, not green. If the light is red, then the mixture is rich and adjusted to include the additional load. For example in the evening, you turn on the lights and dipped beam and thereby the RPM will not drop, the mixture energy is enough for stable operation.

Well, that’s all we set up the machine in a simplified way, on our own without the help of anyone.

2 ADVANCED METHOD (sensitivity bolt idle speed bolt idle speed bolt greed bolt)

I’ll describe the CONVENTION why it exists and has a place. (it is not possible to make it short) In this method the idling speed adjustment is adjusted by the idling speed bolt (brass one) as it is called by the manufacturer’s manual. And the diaphragm sensitivity bolt (the BLACK plastic one) has the function of adding some gas when you press the pedal.

The diagram looks roughly like this: Adjust stable idle speed with the idle speed bolt (brass bolt). Through the channel of this (XX brass) bolt flows into the secondary chamber some of the mixture needed for stable idling. This portion of the mixture enters the engine independently and without taking into account the secondary chamber, and is regulated by the brass bolt responsible in this method for adjusting the idle speed. In fact, the primary chamber with the main reinforced spring regulates the pressure coming from the cylinder and gives already a lower pressure. The channel of the brass idle stroke bolt runs from the primary to the secondary crankshaft, bypassing the secondary crankshaft sensitivity valve. And the bolt of the secondary chamber MEMBRANE is adjusted so that if there is an additional consumption of mixture needed by the engine, the secondary chamber valve opened at the moment of pressing the throttle pedal.

EXAMPLE: The machine is running at idle speed. The idle (brass bolt) channel is used to mix only the mixture necessary for the stable idling of the vehicle. At this point, the idle speed channel is flowing 8 grams of mixture per 1 second. When the pedal is depressed, the flow capacity of the channel is limited by the idling (idling) bolt and remains constant = 8 grams per 1 second. And the engine already needs more mixture since we pressed the pedal, it is necessary to pass a larger portion of fuel. Due to the resulting vacuum in the manifold, the air intake into the engine also increases. Thereby the gas mixer picks up more fuel through the secondary chamber. Which is configured to respond to additional air inflow through the mixer located in front of the throttle valve. Because of the vacuum membrane begins to pull away from the secondary chamber shut-off valve and thus opens an additional channel, which in turn adds (enriches) the mixture. In this way the throughput increases and the mixture becomes more saturated.

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I hope I was able to explain to you more or less understandably how the SLOW method works. But it has its advantages and disadvantages. If the reducer is new, you don’t have a problem with high flow if everything is set correctly. It is important to properly adjust the diaphragm sensitivity response to the throttle bolt (brass colored).

Many people, having tuned by this method, complain of high flow rate. I’ll explain why this happens. There are two reasons for this 1) Diaphragms of both primary and secondary chambers are already quite worn and not elastic and have sagged. Therefore, response in this case is delayed and at the moment when the engine does not need such a rich mixture, the membranes still give out an excessively rich mixture. That’s why the consumption is so high. The response of the secondary diaphragm is also offset from the threshold. It is difficult for the driver to tell what is wrong with the machine and what to do.

-2 If the diaphragms are okay and the reducer is not yet “tired” new-fresh, the idle (brass idle) and diaphragm sensitivity bolts (plastic black), are not set correctly with each other. Since they are very dependent on each other. The secondary chamber should be set so that the response to the additional mixture is not at the moment, when the engine rpm has slightly increased, but a little later.

EXAMPLE: idle stroke setting = 800 rpm, and the sensitivity screw membrane should work (open the valve) at 1200-1500 rpm. At the moment when the RPM rises from 800 to 1200-1500, the pressure in the primary chamber will increase due to an even greater vacuum created by the engine and the idling (idling) channel capacity will slightly increase. But the performance of the idle channel in terms of power is not enough to raise the RPM to 1200-1500. Then, because of the strong rarefaction created in the mixer, the secondary membrane is connected and works at the rarefaction created by the engine itself. The motor itself will create a vacuum in the secondary chamber of the reducer, taking the desired portion of the mixture. And revs will pick up smoothly and with good throttle pedal response. If the secondary chamber response is set to actuate an additional portion from 800 rpm or higher, for example from 2000 rpm, then the mixture will not be proportional to the required engine torque. This causes the RPM to rise irregularly, and therefore the consumption increases, as the engine simply does not process the extra portion, or gets too lean mixture.).B- BEAUTIFUL mix, engine suffocates, increases the vacuum in the gearbox, consumes more, combustion is quick and inefficient.

CONNECT METHOD- PRINCIPLE SETTING (sensitivity bolt xx bolt greed bolt).Now unscrew the bolt of the throttle (brass) for 3-5 turns from the twisted position.

-Greedy bolt (FIRST CAMERA) on the hose is also screwed up to a small stop. Now unscrew the greed bolt 3 turns from the screwed position.

A little bit about the bolts of greed there are two types: 1 type ordinary through with one handle for adjusting there is no point in describing.

2 type slingshot like this with two bolts for adjustment.

1- the bolt is connected (e.g. on carbureted machines) to the primary chamber which is considered the main one when setting up if carbureted type of injection. It is easy to spot as it has a choke valve.

2. The bolt is connected to the secondary chamber of the carburetor. The secondary chamber is essentially for higher engine RPM. And it works the moment the engine speed reaches more than 3000 rpm. Min. And this is a more aggressive method of driving.

-Secondary camera greed bolt from the twisted position. Turn it back one turn. (Do not over-torque the screws, as you can tear the threads on plastic parts.)

-Start the car on gasoline warm up to full working condition. Increase the engine rpm with gasoline, about 3000 rpm. Min. fix the choke any way you want, but DO NOT TIGHTEN the throttle. А. Switch to gas if the car is injected or mono injected. Б. For carbureted cars, switch to the position EXCEEDING the rests of petrol, after working out switch to gas.

If the car stalled, then try number two, maybe the portion of gas did not have time to get into the engine or the bolts that we turned the wrong settings. We adjusted them so that the gas mixture would go into the engine, but this does not mean that it will be correct. It is important to find the position of the bolts, when the car will run on gas and it does not matter how, the main thing is not to stall. Play with the bolts by unscrewing them or tightening them in sync. Important. to not stall and somehow work.

-The car runs on gas at high rpm.

POWER. Greedy bolt (POWER bolt) Now we need to adjust the correct higher RPMs, about the same as we had on gasoline which were. Since you have not yet set these revolutions, we start tightening the bolt on the hose (1 chamber for carbureted cars). Tightening the bolt, we will hear the engine RPM will start to drop, so we understand that if you twist further, the car will definitely stall. You have to do this to find the right position of the bolt, because if it is too loose, the RPM will also be too low because of the rich gas mix. And we need the mixture not rich in gas but on the contrary poor in gas. Note: if the mixture is rich, by tightening the greedy bolt the RPM will not drop and will remain the same, and if they started dropping, then we are on the right track.

And so, realizing that it makes no sense to tighten further, we start to loosen the greed bolt (1 chamber carburetor cars) loosen smoothly and listen to the engine RPM, they will start to rise. OPEN until the RPMs stop rising. IMPORTANT. do not miss this moment Greedy bolt of the secondary chamber do not touch (it is ajar by 1 turn from the closed position) As soon as revolutions have stopped growing stop, this is the Moment we need, let’s call it RPM Peak Moment. In this peak moment of greed bolt, the engine gets exactly that portion of gas which the engine needs for normal work, at higher revolutions. The engine by its performance and wear to life, will show by revolutions, when to stop OPENING the greedy bolt.

. For those who have a LAMBDA SOUND EMULATOR with a light indicator on the mixture: The emulator is an indispensable thing in this business and helps a lot at adjustment, if certainly your lambda probe is in serviceable condition. With the right mixture at higher RPMs of 3000 rpm. Min. (the light should light up green, not red. If red light is on, mixture is rich and it is necessary to tighten greedy bolt until green light turns on.

We are done with power, now we can adjust the idle speed. Release high revolutions by returning throttle back to normal position. Most likely the car will stall because the idle speed is not adjusted properly but only approximately.

Ремонт газового редуктора ATIKER

IDLE STROKE. (brass diaphragm sensitivity bolt is plastic black).BLEEP bolt. (brass colored bolt) turn it in to see what position it is in, rpm should drop as you turn it in. If stalled: Trying to start with gas if it won’t idle or won’t start. loosen idling speed screw (brass) for 1 turn. Trying to start again. if it is not holding idle rpm, turn idle (brass one) back to 1 turn. IMPORTANT. Do not turn it more than 1 turn because you might miss the right moment. In short, you need to find the position of the idle (brass) bolt when the car starts and somehow keeps idling and does not stall.

Now we need to find our stable and correct idle speed. Start tightening the bolt a little at a time until you feel that the car is about to stall. From this point on let’s start a little bit of smooth STARTING. NOTE: I have described and repeated this moment twice on purpose, as frequent mistakes are hidden in this very moment of tuning. It is very important for us to find the point where the mixture is POOR and that is why the rpm drops and if you turn it any higher you are sure the car will stall. If you over-torque the bolt, you might over-enrich the mixture and the rpm will also drop and you will lose track of the setting. Be very careful. Since everyone has a different length of feed hose from manifold to reducer, it will take a while to get a reaction when you unscrew the bolt. Do this procedure slowly and with a short delay so that the new gas has time to reach the engine and burn off.

-By unscrewing the idle stroke bolt you find a stable idle stroke of the engine. Waiting for the fan to turn on (additional load), you can turn on the heater fan and dipped beam. This also provides additional load. If idle RPM has dropped, adjust the idle speed adjuster slightly to keep the engine stable.

RESPONSE SENSITIVITY ADJUSTMENT.We raise revolutions to about 1200-1700 rpm do it sharply at the moment of a sharp rise you will feel a lag at revolutionsRPM sensitivity bolt (plastic black) begin to preot twist at the moment of a sharp revolutions gain by the engine. Let’s make correction (with black) membrane sensitivity bolt smoothly and check several times to be sure everything is correct. The dip should smooth out (disappear) little by little.

MIXING AND RETURN TEST: With a properly adjusted reducer, you should get the following:

1 RPM PICK up is found correct PICK up similar to petrol rpm. (petrol 3000 rpm).min = 3000 rpm.min gas) 2 Smooth and stable idle both with and without load (heater fan or light). 3 Steady RPMs when accelerating.

. For those who have a LAMBDA SOUND EMULATOR with a light indicator on the mixture: The emulator is an indispensable thing in this business and helps a lot at adjustment if your lambda probe is in good working order of course. If the mixture is correct at idling speed, the light should be red, not green. At revs, the light should be green.

NOTE:.If the light is green at idle then the mix is low and you need to loosen the sensitivity and idling screw until the red light turns on, the idle should remain stable. After the adjustment, recheck the correctness of adjustment of the sensitivity bolt, in the required rpm rangeIf red light occurs at revolutions, fix the revolutions around 3000 rpm and correct it by the greedy bolt (1st chamber for carburettor cars) TIGHTEN the bolt (lean mixture) so that the green light would turn on. Recheck afterwards what is lit at idle and adjust if necessary. Well, that’s all we set up a machine the hard way, by our own efforts, without the help of anyone.

PS. I will say that you will most likely have a hard time with the ADULT way, and you won’t be the first)))) Oh by the way I forgot to add that the reducer tends to age and so on. Because you have to readjust often if you want a normal flow rate on this or that method. Because the peaks of the settings. golden mean. will shift as your reducer ages.

Reducer Atiker up to 90 kW propane vacuum

Atiker VR04 electronic gearbox up to 110 kW (K01.001063) Reducer Atiker up to 90 kW propane vacuum (K01.001035) Reducer Atiker up to 90 kW propane electronic (K01.001015) Gas pressure reducer Atiker VR02 vacuum up to 140 kW (K01.001036) Bigas

Reducer Atiker up to 90 kW propane vacuum For cars up to 90kW. Atiker vaporizer reducer has a sturdy, shockproof metal housing.

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Reducer Atiker up to 90 kW (up to 120 kW).c) propane electronic. vacuum reducer Atiker, Astar gas. reducer. One of the main components taking part in the installation of gas equipment of 2nd generation is a vacuum propane gas reducer Atiker VR02 90 kW 125 liters.с.

Tuning HBO with his own hands with his own hands

GTB Atiker. Turkish equipment reliability

The reducers-evaporators from the Turkish manufacturer are quite reliable, which is not surprising. Because their design is very similar to the Italian units. It is not for nothing that we work with Lovato and Atiker brand from Turkey.

However, there are nuances: where Atiker has castings, the Italians use die-cutting. But this is due to the peculiarities of the production equipment. Otherwise there is no difference. even the repair kits for most models are interchangeable.

Is that the statistics of factory defects in the Italians is slightly better because of the more advanced culture of production. After all, Lovato is among the world leaders in gas equipment, and the status requires.

Clear signs of any Atiker reducer defect. increased flow rate and difficulty starting a warm engine.

Childhood illnesses are revealed, as a rule, immediately at the stage of settings of Atiker HBO. What slipped past the attention of adjusters, is sure to manifest itself at the time of zero maintenance, which is held after the first thousand miles after installation.

The service interval and the order of service ofБОБО Atiker does not differ from service of other brands. Recommendations for extending the service life of evaporator reducers are also the same:

Don’t abuse the cold start on propane.

The situation is considered an emergency. Repeated repetition leads to premature problems with the diaphragm. The same applies to the early transition to the gas mode, when the engine is not warmed up to 40 ° C.

Avoid low antifreeze in the cooling system.

The unit is connected by a water jacket to the coolant circuit. If there is a lack of antifreeze in the tank, the reducer is underheated, and sometimes it ices the body, which accelerates the wear of gaskets and internal parts.

Some Atiker GBS models have a built in filter element. A professional serviceman remembers it, but car owners often forget it.

Atiker 2nd generation tuning

Hello all, I appeal to those who have this “Miracle”. Who tuned this reducer and how, and what is the brass screw for, what is the big plastic screw. I have some problems with it, I can not adjust the normal idle, on the move in a stretch slightly jerks, throttles on a sudden throttle reduction and braking. There is also a problem with starting with gas when the engine is “cold” and warmed up, the engine speed begins to drop and almost stops, but if you turn off and on gas, the speed will be smooth.

Комментарии и мнения владельцев 71

I have the same reducer on my 9, on the highway consumption 7, in the city 9, Here’s how I adjust www.drive2.ru/l/5733316/

I adjust my reducer as described herewww.drive2.I like the gasoline, it has the same rimpull and throttle.

I have from new the same behavior(( sometimes stalls after acceleration-braking, sometimes at idle begins to drop (as heated) until you put gas. I adjusted it, no effect, either the consumption increases or the engine starts to idle. So drive, but that’s interesting, after acceleration-braking, if you stall, it takes a long time to start, faster if you turn off the gas supply and start, and when it catches hold of turn on the gas. I think he overflows gas in this case, but what to do also do do not know, I drive a year.

Same thing, I have been struggling with it for a year now and I can’t decide if I can solve it yet. But the problem is the same

My throttle stalls after instances of stopping almost halfway and then braking, the office that installs them said my own fault, since I have a reducer, up to 140 it seems l.с., and I’ve got 2.7 and 203 liters.с. And it kind of works fine for others. But now I see that this is not the case.

That’s what they tell me, I need a bigger reducer, I have 2.7 143 liters.с. I don’t think that’s the problem either

I have been doing the same thing since I was new (( sometimes it stops after acceleration-braking, sometimes the idle RPMs start to drop (as you warm up) until you accelerate. Regulated, no effect, or the flow increases, or begins to stall. So I drive, but what’s interesting, after acceleration-braking, if you stall, you need a long start, faster is if you turn off the gas supply and start, and as it catches hold of turn on the Gbo. I think he overflows gas in this case, but what to do, too, do not know.

YOU NEED TO ELIMINATE AIR DRAIN IN THE INJECTOR HOSE

There is a small gap in the corrugation where the faucet (sealed with sealant) whether this affects the air drain if there is any?

I NEED TO EXCLUDE AIR LEAKAGE ON THE DISPENSER HOSE

No air suction, tested, but also starts bad that the gas and gasoline, have after starting the engine for 10 seconds to accelerate then revolutions stabilizeya

My ignition is 0.8 seconds and starts with gasoline and gas needs 6-8 seconds to start, but idling is normal at once, sometimes only as described above, see my second comment

Looked at it, everything is fine, where the flap is all greased with sealant

Plastic one is for throttle, brass one is for diaphragm sensitivity.

And here they tell me that everything is exactly the opposite ))) and who shall I believe?)

Trust yourself)) Try to find the right screw for yourself by hand. I, too, for a long time doubted which was which, but after reading the web and twisting, I realized that the plastic one is for idling.

and here they tell me that everything is exactly the opposite )))) and who should I trust?

And here they tell me that everything is exactly the opposite ))) and who can believe it))

Plastic is diaphragm, brass is idle stroke bypass screw

The plastic one is for throttle and the brass one is for diaphragm sensitivity.

I had to retype from gearbox manual.Before you start the adjustment, raise the engine speed to about 3 thousand rpm. Then start to turn the spout slightly in the hour hand. It is located between the LPG mixer and the reducer on the LPG hose. Rotate until the engine rpm starts to drop. As soon as the revolutions start to decrease, the dosing valve should be turned back about one-fourth. Slowly reduce the engine rpm to idle.Next, on the reducer, begin to adjust the screw (usually made of plastic, and has a diameter of 10-15 mm with knurling) idling, and you need to maintain traction so that the engine would run at about 1 thousand, or slightly higher. To make the engine run smoothly, it is necessary to choose the best possible position and adjust the sensitivity of the diaphragm on the reducer. Then release the gas feeder.Sometimes you can find the second adjustment screw on gearboxes (it has a small diameter and you can adjust it with a screwdriver). This screw of forced gas supply, bypassing the reducer. It’s used more on cargo trucks to make it easier to start gas, on cars, it’s usually cranked up to the stop.

You’re the expert. No problem. How much air pressure can be pumped into the cylinder if the gas is summer?

I have a 50 liter cylinder at a temperature of.15, when the car is parked overnight, from this tank I can get 20 liters, because. к. Too much butane in the gas. The pressure drops in the cylinder and that’s it, the car does not go. That’s why they are pumping air to take the remaining gas.

Adjusting the gas pressure reducer using various methods

Due to rising gasoline prices, many car owners began to equip their “iron horse” gas equipment (HBO) to somehow save their finances. However, with the new equipment came a new hassle. its maintenance and setup. So today we decided to address the problem of adjusting the gas reducer. In fact, it is necessary to do it not only immediately after the installation of HBO on the car, but also during the operation of the system.

The longer the mileage of the GTB and the period of its operation. the more necessary this adjustment becomes. The thing is that over time, the rubber technical elements of LPG. valves and diaphragms. can change their properties, which in turn leads to overconsumption of gas. Of course, such consequences may occur only after 3-4 years of operation (this is about 100 000 km of mileage), but you should prepare for this in advance.

Adjusting the gearbox: What you need for adjustment?

Before you begin familiarizing yourself with the basic methods by which to adjust the reducer, it is necessary to become more familiar with this device and its main characteristics. After all, it is the gas reducer performs the most fundamental role in the normal functioning of gas. What is its main task?? It is thanks to this node, the driver of a car with HBO can reduce the pressure of gas, which comes from a cylinder. In fact, this is a fairly primitive pressure regulator, which allows autonomously maintain the same pressure.

As we have noted in our introduction, adjustment of the reducer is needed during the installation of new gas equipment on the car, as well as after its long-term operation. But in addition to these factors, the need for frequency of adjustment and the peculiarities of this task is also related to:

– Generation of gas equipment and, consequently, the gas regulator;

The gas reducer has membranes, which can freeze at low temperatures. For this reason, the reducer is necessarily connected to the car cooling system. If we talk about the operation of this element of the gasifier in general, it is important to note the following point: you can not run the reducer at the same time as the engine. First you need to wait until the engine temperature rises to 30-50 ° C, and then you can run in the gas reducer.

The construction of an ordinary gas reducer is also uncomplicated. In particular, this device consists of the following parts:

– separate chambers, the number of which may vary depending on the type of reducer (from 1 to 3);

But there are two types of reducers on modern GTB. They have a number of very important differences between them, which, in particular, has a significant impact on the process of their adjustment. Let’s consider the features of each of them:

Vacuum reducer. In order to run such a reducer, you must perform a number of required actions:

– Put the switch in the “Gas. Gasoline” position;

When the first two instructions are followed, the necessary amount of gas is pressurized into the intake manifold, which will then allow you to start the engine and go on the road without any problems. The same is ensured through the work of the starter.

Electronic arrangement of a gas pressure regulator. It only turns on when the switch is in the “Gas” position. Similar to the vacuum reducer, we start the ignition and give the starter an opportunity to work for a while, until the necessary amount of gas is collected in the intake manifold, and the device itself warms up to the desired temperature.

In order to properly adjust the gas reducer, you need to understand absolutely everything about its settings. Thus, most propane type reducers are characterized by two regulators, although there are a small number of models with one. Methane analogues, on the contrary, almost always have just one regulator. Correct adjustment of gas pressure regulator is the main problem for car owners.

Why are there two regulators installed on the pressure regulators?? The first of them is the idle speed regulator. In the process of adjusting the device, we will need to twist it to the stop. And the bottom one is the sensitivity regulator. It is the one that presses the diaphragm of the reducer. After getting acquainted with this device in more detail, you can proceed directly to the performance of the adjustment procedure.

And the question of what is needed to adjust the gas reducer, the answer will be very simple. you need patience and the precise implementation of the instructions prescribed below. You should also remember that you will have to work with gas equipment, so all your manipulations should be extremely careful. In the event that you do not feel confident enough in your own abilities, it is best to seek help from a specialized auto service.

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Adjustment methods for the reducer

As we have already noted, there are electronic gas reducers and vacuum. The adjustment of each of them has its own characteristics and differences, for which reason we will consider methods of adjusting each of them separately.

Electronic gas pressure regulator. which setting method to choose?

Two types of adjustment must be applied on this type of device:

1. Sensitivity adjustment, or pressure adjustment in the second stage.

Adjust according to the amount of gas that flows through the idle speed channel.

But before proceeding with both, a few more mandatory steps must be performed. First of all, we start the car engine on gasoline, so that it can preheat to operating temperature. The idle speed is set to between 950 and 1000 rpm. When the engine reaches the required temperature, turn off the gasoline supply and let it work out the rest.

After that we prepare the car for the direct adjustment of the gas reducer:

– turn the power register to the maximum value (in the case of a dual-chamber dispenser, open the first chamber completely and the second to the minimum);

Well, first of all let’s proceed to the idling speed adjustment. To do this, start the vehicle, but with LPG. Use the choke and bring the engine to 1700-2000 rpm. Then you need to perform two actions simultaneously: a little at a time to remove the choke and turn the idle speed regulator, until you find the position in which the greatest number of revolutions of the starter. At the end of this procedure, the choke should be completely removed, and the car should start idling steadily.

Having set the idle speed regulator to the maximum speed of the starter, gradually turn the sensitivity regulator of gas pressure regulator. If in the process of this procedure the number of revolutions starts to change, try again to bring them to the maximum with the idle speed regulator. If you can’t do anything with the sensitivity knob, try turning the sensitivity knob two turns and go over the whole procedure from the beginning.

The goal you need to achieve is the maximum number of revolutions of the starter at idle (approximately 1100-1200 rpm./min), with the sensitivity regulator turned in almost all the way. But it is not recommended to drive at these revolutions, as their value should be below the nominal. Therefore, tighten the idle speed regulator again until the RPM goes down to 950-1100 rpm./min.

Now let’s go to adjusting the sensitivity of our gas reducer. Also take your time unscrewing the sensitivity control and observe the effect of our actions on the starter speed, which it performs at idle. When you feel that the RPM has started to change, turn the idle speed regulator back a bit, about ¾-5/4 turns per minute. Do not forget to check the operation of the engine by sharply depressing the gas pedal pedal. If you’ve done everything well, it will respond immediately and without jerks.

When adjusting the reducer, it is very important not to forget to adjust the power register. To do this, bring the starter of the working engine to 3-3.5 thou. rpm, while turning the power register knob back in. Do this until the starter’s RPM starts to decrease. To check that you have obtained the desired result, try to move the screw of the gas feeder and unscrew it by about ½-3/4 of a turn from the position you have found.

But it is not necessary to howl about the fact that there are metering units, which consist of two sections. In this case, all of the above actions should be applied only to the first chamber, and the second to adjust only 25-30% of the first. On some gas reducers there is also the possibility of setting the pressure on the 1st stage.

To perform the adjustment completely shut off the engine, cut off the gas line and connect the manometer to the first stage cavity (it is advisable to use a manometer with a scale of 1.5 kgf/cm2 and connect it through the control hole, which is shut off with the regulator). After that open the gas line again, idle the engine and bring the first stage pressure to 0,38-0,42 kgf/cm2.

Ремонт газового редуктора ATIKER 2 го поколения

Ideally, after adjusting the power register, the idle speed and sensitivity of the gas reducer should be adjusted again. Only after that you can go to the final stage of the adjustment, which consists of several steps:

1. Depress the accelerator pedal very sharply.

Screw in sensitivity regulator for 0,25 turn until rpm starts to decrease too much.

Unscrew the regulator by 0.5 turn and let the engine run for a while, carefully monitoring the stability of this process.

What you need to know about adjusting the vacuum gas pressure regulator?

Adjustment of vacuum-type gas reducers can also be done in two ways:

1. The sensitivity and idle speed of the gas reducer can be adjusted separately.

The sensitivity and idle speed of the gas reducer can be adjusted at the same time.

Большой расход газа? Настройка ГБО 2 и ГБО 3.го поколения.Atiker / Tomasetto. Два вида настройки.

As for the first method of adjustment, it is no different from the process of adjusting the electronic gas reducer, which we have already described above. For this reason, we will look at how to combine these processes.

First of all we take on the idle speed. To do this, start the car, but at once on gas, not petrol. Again with the help of the suction we equalize the revolutions of the engine to the number of 1700-2000 per minute. Slowly remove the choke and with the help of the idle speed regulator achieve the maximum value of the starter speed (at the end the choke should be completely removed). We achieve the speed intensity within the limits of 1000-1100 rpm with the help of a regulator./min and at the end set the norm. 950-1100 rpm./min with a little more screwing on the regulator.

The power register of the vacuum reducer is set in much the same way as with the electronic prototype. In particular, it is necessary to perform the following actions:

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The right setting of the gearbox HBO 2 generation

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Adjustment of gas reducer in Kharkov

As the number of gas installations grows, so does the need for related services, such as adjusting the gas reducer. This procedure is reusable, and it should be done from time to time during the operation of gbo. The rule is simple. the more gas mileage a car runs, the more the gearbox needs adjusting. Because the rubber components (membranes, valves) are constantly exposed to low temperatures, which are typical for liquefied gas. Rubber can crack over time and begin to leak gas. At a minimum, it threatens the overspending of fuel. How quickly you may need to adjust the reducer-evaporator? Approximately in 100-120 thousand kilometers or in 3-4 years, regardless of traveled kilometers (rubber becomes useless not only from the temperature but also from the time).

Since the reducer is one of the most important devices in the gas fuel system, its performance directly affects the correct functioning of the gas fuel system as a whole. And this mechanism has to constantly work under high pressure of liquefied gas which comes from a cylinder and reduce it to the operating level. The essence of gas reducer operation remains the same, although each generation of gas units has its own peculiarities. This is something to keep in mind when starting the adjustment.

Setting the idle speed

Start the vehicle with gas and set the revolutions to 1700-2000 rpm with the choke. Now find the maximum RPM by turning the idle speed screw. Repeat these steps until the choke is fully removed and the engine is running stably at idle speed. Adjust the idle speed to the maximum rpm with the idle speed screw. Turn the sensitivity screw little by little and if the revolutions change, correct with the idle speed screw to the maximum. If it is not possible, tighten the sensitivity screw by 2 revolutions and repeat the procedure from the beginning. As a result, the sensitivity screw is turned almost all the way, the engine idles at a maximum of 1100-1200 rpm). With the idle speed screw in, reduce the speed a little less than the nominal and then, unscrewing, set 950-1000 rpm.

Independent revision of the gas reducer Atiker: disassembly, cleaning

Hello all, today I continue the series of articles on how to disassemble and clean the gas reducer on a car with HBO at home. In previous articles I told about how to disassemble and clean gear reducer Tomasetto AT-07, as well as the reducer Lovato. Today we talk about gearbox Atiker, the construction of which, incidentally, is very similar to that of Lovato.

Timely replacement of filters and cleaning of reducer is a necessary condition for operation of any car equipped with gas installation. Undue preventive maintenance may cause problems in the form of a jerk when driving, unstable idling, as well as increased fuel consumption.

In order to remove and disassemble the Atiker gas reducer you will need:

  • Keys to: “8”, “13”, “14”;
  • Screwdriver and pliers for clamp removal;
  • TORX wrenches (asterisk) for 2nd stage camera screws;
  • “White spirit” or “WD-40”, rags.

Author

Kerariel

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