Making a circular saw with their own hands
The need to have a small circular saw at hand has probably occurred to anyone who, at least once, has tried to make a straight cut with an electric jigsaw or a hand saw on a small board or strip of laminate. Another thing when such an operation is performed on a stable machine. Even if this circular saw was assembled from metal and is not too presentable appearance, but this machine for wood allows you to do the job and faster, and better quality. Here’s just how to assemble a circular saw at the lowest cost and use the available parts, such as the engine from a washing machine?
Miniature machine from the engine from a washing machine
The circular saw is characterized by extreme simplicity and accessibility of materials for its manufacture. Perhaps the only expensive part is the electric motor. Stationary machines are equipped with a powerful asynchronous motor, which provides a cutting of thick wood of any species, but in the home workshop you can be limited to a smaller power.
Note! For sawing boards of medium thickness it is enough to make a circular table with a washing machine motor drive by your own hands.
This design has a number of advantages. The engine from an old washing machine is inexpensive, moreover, such a device is likely to be found in the household of the handyman. Connecting this motor is not particularly difficult, there is no need to look for schemes, to engage in soldering. With all that, the power of such a machine is quite enough for most types of work.
The machine scheme can be simplified as much as possible, eliminating the belt drive. In this variant the cutting tool will be attached directly to the motor shaft. Bench mini machine will serve as a frame, assembled from a bar section of 40 x 40 mm. If desired, it can be welded from a angle or profile pipe.
As a support (table top) of the circular saw, a part of an old TV set or a coated particle board would be perfect. As practice shows, this part is characterized by sufficient strength, and thanks to the lacquer coating does not prevent the workpiece from sliding.
With the jigsaw, two parallel cuts are made perpendicular to the saw blade notch in the tabletop. On them will slide a movable angle, which plays the role of a side stop. It will help to make a straight cut, if necessary, at a given angle.
Making a circular saw with their own hands, it is recommended to provide opportunities for its repair and maintenance. Any moving part must have convenient accesses for lubrication. Beginning all installation work, you should prepare detailed drawings and diagrams, perform appropriate calculations. Homemade circular saw has a different size and can easily fit in a utility room.
How to make a circular saw from a washing machine motor
The working motor from the washing machine should not gather dust in the garage. Even a home handyman can find a use for it. We will tell you how to make a homemade circular saw from a washing machine motor.
Such a tool will help to saw firewood, to master carpentry. But be careful: careless use of a homemade machine can lead to unpleasant consequences. So before you take on the work, you need to be fully confident in your abilities.
How to make a circular saw from a washing machine
Every owner would like to have a device for working with lumber in the garage, in the cottage, in a private home or when repairing a city apartment. But even a manual circular saw costs from 10 000. In this article we will talk about how to make a circular saw from a motor from a used washing machine.
Such a homemade electric saw, assembled with their own hands at home, is able to dissolve boards of five-centimeter thickness. It weighs just over 20 kilograms and is easily transported in the trunk of the car.
The first criterion for choosing a motor for a circular saw. power.
It is recommended to choose among engines equipped with a V-belt.
This will simplify the process of transferring the rotation to the saw disc.
To start the circular saw blade of 350 mm you need 1 kW of power. If you use a 170 mm disc, you need about 500 watts. Therefore, to build a circular saw, the motor of an old washing machine is used.
In a circular saw, it is important to be able to control the number of revolutions of the motor, otherwise the saw will simply tear the material. In washing machines, a tachometer is responsible for controlling the speed, which is controlled by the control module. However, the device is not connected to the circular saw, so you will have to use a voltage regulator.
Assembly
There is nothing complicated in the assembly of the circular saw, but there are some nuances. The motion module of the circular saw includes the following elements:
Important! In a simplified version, it is possible to assemble without the use of bearings.
The assembly process involves the following steps:
- The drive belt is put on the smaller pulley: the rotation is transmitted to the saw blade from the shaft; to avoid slipping of the belt, notches are needed on the pulley, if they are not available, make 3-4 cross grooves yourself;
- Bitumen can be applied to the surface for better adhesion;
- The belt can be used not only from the washing machine, but also from any appliance; it must have serrations and be of sufficient strength;
- To prevent the drive loop from slipping off the large pulley, a small overhang is welded on its end; you can weld a disk with a larger diameter than the pulley;
- disk on the shaft for safety purposes should be attached very well, so as not to have it jump off during operation, which can lead to serious injury;
- To adjust the belt tension, the hole for fixing the motor must be bored out.
To start the homemade circular saw, you can install a switch from an old household appliance. The push-button switch that was used on Soviet models of washing machines will do. It should be plugged with two pins at the input and one wire on the inside should be bifurcated. Thus we get three outputs: one will be a phase, the second will be a zero, and the third will give an offset phase through a capacitor. This switch circuit will provide a start-up, but after that you need to disconnect the capacitor.
For ease of operation, the circular saw must be placed on a frame with a frame. It can be made of 20 mm rectangular profile. You weld the frame, because vibrations are transferred to the joints during the working process, and they must be firmly connected. Bolted connection is acceptable, but less reliable. It will need to be periodically inspected and the bolts tightened. The bed is also better welded to the frame. At the bottom the motor is fixed, at the top you get a working platform. You can also adapt the table from an old foot sewing machine.
Important! Makeshift circular saw from a washing machine motor, of course, will require time, but will significantly save the budget.
self-made circular saw
Anyway, the background was this, once upon a time a long time ago I had a circular DWT HKS 230 worked well until it died, and died so that both the stator and rotor malfunctioned, to repair it was unprofitable because spare parts are so much that it is cheaper to buy a new one, which was done, and the old was placed on the shelf, and now two years ago died washing machine DAEWOO automatic wife crossed her eyes and we bought a new one.as a result of digging in their stores was updated motor from a washing machine and a burned out circular saw, with a circular saw the motor was removed and ground to a pulley well and then the photo if budel kamu interest I will tell more detail although the photos of like everything is clear.
Комментарии и мнения владельцев 76
Good day, well as a circular saw, I hope it works? I have the same problem, the armature burned out, no spare parts, no rewinding.к. circular saw is already built into the table I do not want to buy another one so as not to remake the entire table top, I’m looking for options to attach a motor through the native gearbox.
All works, just need to replace the bearing on the gearbox.
A Cheap and Easy DIY Washing Machine. Spin Cycle Included!
If your saw has 1700 rpm, what was the rpm on the original engine if the output was probably under 5000. About 36,000? I’m just speculating.
Fifty really slices (for me 40 enough), does not slow down the saw, 1700 rpm is not small? Engine how many watts 300-400?
On the native engine speeds were 4500 or saw I do not know, fifty saw across, sawing is normal along did not saw, along sawed only 35mm boards, saws no problem.The motor is 400 watt 12000 rpm.At the saw, respectively, 2000-2200 Watts and 1700-1800 RPM.(gearbox)
Thanks, over the winter I hope to figure out how to connect it all, the belt from the washing machine I think the long enough.
Yes, the belt is long, but it was made from what was on hand, moreover that the length does not affect the work.
saw does not burn at these speeds, I have a motor on the washing machine 16000 rpm, oh pulleys are many times greater than each other, and you have the same stitches revolutions are high dl saw, or the motor is not highly rpm?
Read carefully, about the gearbox written in Russian letters.
Sorry I read the hat, and no Комментарии и мнения владельцев under pictures 🙂
I have beech ash oak is often in the workplace and this is nuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuunnicky wood
That’s right that’s what I had originally. 🙂 but that machine for cutting glazing beads. 🙂 and it died before reaching the age of two years. That’s the worst thing I’ve ever seen. And by the way, you can’t get a precise cut with this bar. There’s analogues with a blade mounted on both sides that still cut at first but they’re too flimsy.
I also have a movable and removable. But I mostly saw without it and without the guard.т.к. Most of the time I saw out non-standard parts. And the author can, if necessary, simply fasten a flat bar to the table on two scruples. That’s what I do because I can’t think of a more convenient and fast construction.
If you have to cut a wedge-shaped piece.? How do you do it with a blade??
How to work on the machine I know, and I want to clarify this is not an industrial sawmill with a disk diameter of 500mm diameter and only 230mm, and what jamming we are talking about is not quite clear, at the output to the drive only 1700 rpm so what to rip from the hands we are talking about is also not clear.For reference, when this circular saw came out of the factory DWT output at 4500 rpm, saw without a stop, sawed the arch on the portal and nothing to vomit.
The jerk on top is an idea. the stop bar will be no problem, but about the clamping and start twisting I don’t know where the bails will go.
great! and how it works under load? I wish I could take a video and listen to it.I’ve got an engine from my car, and I’m thinking about making it?
Well, I do not know about the video, if I get it, I will take it off.under load engine speed drops from 12000 to 11000 sometimes 11500 measured mechanical tachometer, 30 minutes of work engine is not warm, more than 30 minutes did not get to work. You’ll have to take a breather, you’ll have to take it out of the way.
Stas well done you have made a thing out of the junk which will always be useful. Even if not everything in it is perfect (aesthetics, safety.) But for the family at home you can cut the board when needed. Do not be upset by the criticism of those who have written below it’s not out of spite it’s just that there are people who are theorists. They talk a lot but can’t do shit with their hands except yell on the keys. Well, think about the safety of course. After all, we only have 10 fingers. Good luck with everything. Don’t be ill.:-)
Thank you criticism is certainly needed, but only from people who are aware that they write, not just read about it, aesthetics and safety will certainly be corrected, all in good time, now do not do that.Thanks again.
I’m afraid of that shit, a little hesitation and no toes =(
You have to try very hard to get your finger under the screw which is at a depth much longer than your finger
Then you need to be either drunk or drunk to saw off a finger on a circular saw )) there are elementary rules for using such tools and safety precautions.
Afraid of that shit, a little hesitation and no fingers =(
You should not be afraid of it, but respect it and treat it wisely. Then the limbs will be in place. The author, of course, does not have the best specimen in the photo, but there is not much left to do to achieve the title of a worthy representative of self-made products (especially considering the source materials). And, judging by the conversation, the author will not rust.
Why do you need it if the belt does not slip and does not heat up?
but you couldn’t put a circular saw guard on it? Well, the one that covers the protruding part of the disk when sawing and when you finish closes the disk, it is on the spring, I do not remember the correct name)
It’s dangerous, at a dismantling in a repair shop would be nice to find and put)
Let’s look and maybe put or make a homemade)
Why should it cut well and the belt does not slip, and the heat does not warm up?
The owner is the boss, he knows best. I’ve seen a lot, as my first profession was a carpenter / carpenter, machinist d / o machines. I’ve worked on sawmills and planers and on cutters and with hand tools.So, never compare a hand tool and a stationary tool, and to equate their capabilities and power is dangerous to your health. I share my knowledge and observations with you for your own safety. I’ve done my duty. I shared the information. It’s up to you how to use it))) Naturally, you know better there on the spot what and how, I only drew conclusions from what I saw in the photo.At high speed it’s finishing work. At the same time the reach of cutting edge of hand tools is extremely small, both to reduce the load on a shaft and to increase safety. At these speeds on stationary machines, the bed has a weight that even three people can’t pull, plus, there are clamps and traps, and the working tool itself is closed. And it is done for a reason. I’ve seen how belts break and how bars fly away at 30 meters, and how staples 25 mm board pierce and how engines without a casing of sawdust blue flames gape So. I know what I’m talking / writing about.Therefore, no matter how you disparage my words, let him, in public you will be right in his convictions (you can delete my Комментарии и мнения владельцев, I will not take offense), but coming to your creation, think again about what I wrote to you. Perhaps you will save at least your fingers and eyes of your loved ones. On the “chance” in such cases extremely do not recommend. You have done well, the hands grow out of the right place and the head is boiling, but still finalize and finalize I wish you only success!))
I’ll tell you one thing in the industry, it all happens because of lack of care and safety, and the bands on the sawmill and scalps in the peeling machine takes off, and the volume is different, about the hood, yes I completely agree protection would not hurt just all of the above applies to the belt?
When it bursts, it will break in the thigh very quickly)) For circular saw even of the same diameter a good momentum is required to create this momentum. The belt transmission should have a high friction force at the contact points of belt and shafts/pulleys. This force is achieved in two ways:1 increasing the belt tension force;2 increasing the diameter of the pulleys.
In the first case, you increase the load on the bearings, make the belt work in the mode of constant local overheating (under load it will always slip on the shaft and thereby warm up, with high heat rubber loses its initial properties) and multiple strong local breaking (similar to the aluminum wire, only the process is more extended in time, partially saved by the cord).
In the second case, you have a couple of forces (or torque in another way) due to the separation of the points of force application to the belt and the axis of rotation (lever rule in fact). In addition, the friction area of the belt on the torque transmission surface (running groove side cheeks of the pulley) is increased, which reduces heating due to force distribution and makes life easier for the whole mechanism by increasing the radius of curvature of the belt. The belt doesn’t overheat and is a hundred times less likely to break. Because less belt tension is required, the belt is less prone to breakage and the bearings run longer.
Working with a circular saw without a safety guard is a safety violation, no matter at home or in the organization and no matter the volume))) Nobody is insured from anything, and if you consciously deviate from the rules, then Safety rules are the same as the traffic rules, and the latter, as you know, are written in blood. Self-confidence is good, but “God mode” is only available to God so far. 😉 Once again I wish you success in all your endeavors!
All that you listed is appropriate for V-belt drive, when you look into the srial machine, then you may come to you, maybe, and protection for the belt is another conversation in that I also agree with you.
Principle of friction force transmission from one shaft to the other does not depend on the belt type (it only depends on the contact area, which is, of course, somewhat greater for a V-belt, like yours, due to its design features). Everything else. elementary physics in 6th grade. Whether it’s chains, whether it’s shoelaces/belts/leash, etc.д. Reducing the diameter of the pulley You must increase the tension of the belt to maintain torque. Miracles do not happen. And then you choose what’s easier: to put the pulleys once or permanently change the belt and bearings. (Although, if you every three years, one board will dissolve, then maybe, and roll)))). Be that as it may, I have expressed my views to you frankly and now, when there is an opportunity to listen and change something. I dare not insist, as I have no right to do so.)))
Steadfast Washer Demo
You know, I’ve done a lot of homemade, and nothing all go, and circular saw at 25 more than you in their 30 not vobidu)), and not bad physics, and work on construction, and saw not three planks a year and six months of using it did not change the belt and bearings as they are still can not claim. you build yourself a circular saw put a lot of belts and the bottom weighted in what I doubt of course)) and compare this circular saw with the industrial not need to say different weight categories in terms of motor power and bed and many other things.so before you write more or make at least a fan can be with large pulleys))), and I’m writing you about a particular circular saw, where the motor goes from 12000 RPM to the gearbox and where the output we get 1700 RPM I think you should not describe the principle of the reducer?
Seeing is one thing, but understanding what you see and how it should be is another.We can all see the letters too. Same letters in the same words. And write, for some reason, somehow different, although the rules are the same for all The same happens with self-made Saw it. repeated it, it works, everything is cool, but something is “wrong”. Yes, I confess I didn’t see the gearbox right away. Decided that the torque is transmitted to the saw blade directly from the shaft. My bad. I apologize for causing some confusion, as well as for my negligence in trying to prevent you from the danger that has arisen.But you, too, my dear. “good”. Instead of the two words “worth a gearbox”, you are jammed on the belt.The desire to “measure pussy” at age 25 is inherent in many people, in some ways, I behaved so myself. Oh, that doesn’t look good!))))So next time. be careful with phrases like: “before you do something, you do something first”. You don’t know who you’re dealing with. One entry in my blog says nothing. And here your documentary evidence and style of presentation of information in a text version on the verge of personal transition, sometimes speaks about you not in your favor at all.About moving the center of gravity down and weighting the bed, I did not write out of the blue. When working under load (thick boards or working with hard wood, or with a lot of large dense knots), the increased vibration of the light frame can provoke board flipping, ejection of a knot / chip with great acceleration toward the feeder, “clamping” of the disk with its subsequent bending, etc.д. The principle of turning a healthy person into an invalid is exactly the same, whether on an industrial machine or a home one. Given the approach to the case of individual do-it-yourselfers. in the home version, the difference is only in the degree of protection. You don’t have to describe it?)In such cases it is important to “scale up when copying”, but not “divide by weight category when assembling at random”. We do not know your further intentions here. So whether you are going to put protection or continue to risk the health. And you, as a person creative, intelligent, valuable and interesting to this community, we pity to lose. That’s why you get Комментарии и мнения владельцев about something being “wrong” somewhere in your design. In this situation, you need to either add that improvements and refinements are coming, or lay out a completely finished result, which people with less experience and knowledge could repeat and operate safely.I apologize for being verbose and maybe boring!)))
As for my spelling mistakes, again, this is completely irrelevant to the topic, by the scaling when copying you again have no idea what we are talking about, about vibration if your machine there are vibrations and even such that toss the board, then sorry with your machine is something wrong, a normal machine should not have vibrations.As for who I am dealing with I know very well and I repeat in my 25 years I have seen much more machines than you and this is not a trick, alas, it’s true, as for “measuring pussy” “pussy” is not mature enough to measure with me. no offense meant. it’s not about pussy.
It’s one thing to see, and another thing to understand what you see, and how it should be.We can all see the letters, too. The same letters in the same words. And write, for some reason, somehow, in different ways, although the rules are the same for all Same thing happens with self-made. I saw and repeated it, it works, everything is great, but something is “wrong”. Yes, I confess, I didn’t see the gearbox right away. Decided that the torque is transmitted to the saw blade directly from the shaft. Blame. I apologize for causing some confusion, as well as for the fact that due to my inattention I wanted to protect you from the danger that exists.But, and you, esteemed. “good.”. Instead of the two words “stands the gear”, you are stuck on the belt.The desire to “measure pussy” at age 25 is inherent in many people, in some ways, I behaved that way myself. Oh, that’s not nice of you!))))So next time. be careful with phrases like: “before you do something, you do something first”. You don’t know who you’re dealing with. One entry in my blog says nothing. And here’s your documentary evidence and style of presentation of information in a text version on the verge of a personality shift, sometimes speaks volumes about you not in your favor at all.I did not write about moving the center of gravity down and weighting the bed out of the blue. When working under load (thick boards or working with hard types of wood, or with a lot of large dense knots), the increased vibration of the light frame can provoke lifting of the board, ejection of a knot / chip with great acceleration to the feeder, “clamping” of the disk with its subsequent bending, etc.д. The principle of turning a healthy person into an invalid is exactly the same, both on an industrial machine and on a domestic one. Taking into account the approach of individual do-it-yourselfers. in the home variant the difference is only in the degree of protection. You don’t have to describe it?))In such cases it is important to “scale when copying” and not “divide by weight when assembling at random”. We do not know about your further intentions. So are you going to put protections or continue to risk your health? And you, as a person creative, intelligent, valuable and interesting to this community, we pity to lose. That’s why you get Комментарии и мнения владельцев about something being “wrong” somewhere in your design. In this situation, you either need to write that improvements and refinements are coming, or lay out a completely finished result, which people with less experience and knowledge could repeat and operate safely.I apologize for being verbose and, perhaps, boring!)))
Oh yes, if the machines you work on can not dissolve hardwood, alas, you have seen even less than I think, again no offense to you of course.
You may think what you like but you are not allowed to be rude.I beg you to notice that I did not slander your creation not a single word in any comment, I only dared to question its safety.About my wrongness about the belt mode in your mechanism I also wrote back.And I have never put myself down to the level of a dominant male ape, jumping to personalities, so you could have kept your tone more restrained. I understand that the whole mass of Комментарии и мнения владельцев can “put anyone on a horse”, but you are just as inattentive and, I repeat, you are not a telepath. So don’t rush into things you don’t know. over, those people who only wish you well.))
My tone is as restrained as ever, with regard to the belt (about gearboxes written above), you should have just read it and not make yourself look like the navel of the earth around which the earth rotates. For the kind thanks, and otherwise excuse me read carefully, all written personally you did not want to offend anything, if you mean “pussy”, I clarified that it is not about them to talk about.
When it bursts, you’ll get to it very quickly). For the circular saw even with such diameter the torque needs to be good. To create this torque the belt transmission should have a large friction force in the contact area between the belt and the shafts/pulleys. This force is achieved in two ways: 1 increase in belt tension force, 2 increase the diameter of the pulleys.
In the first case you increase the load on the bearings, make the belt work in the mode of constant local overheating (under load it will always slip on the shaft and thereby warm up, when heavily heated rubber loses its initial properties) and multiple strong local breaking (similar to the aluminum wire, only the process is more extended in time, partially saved by the cord).
In the second case, you have a couple of forces (or torque in another way) due to the separation of the points of force on the belt and the axis of rotation (lever rule in essence). Besides, the friction area of the belt against the surface of the torque transmission (running groove. side flanges of the pulley) increases, which reduces heating due to the force distribution and makes life easier for the whole mechanism by increasing the belt curvature radius. The belt doesn’t overheat, it’s hundreds of times less likely to fracture. Because less belt tension is required, the belt is not as susceptible to breakage and the bearings last longer.
Make your own DIY Washing Machine with Buckets!
Working with a circular saw without a cover. is already a violation of safety, and it does not matter, no matter at home or in the organization and regardless of the volume))) No one is immune from anything, and if you also consciously deviate from the rules, then Safety rules are the same as the traffic rules, and the latter, as you know, are written in blood. Self-confidence is good, but “God mode” is only available to God so far. 😉 Once again I wish you success in all your endeavors!
about safety I also agree and that protection is needed on the disk, but what about the belt?
Circular from a washing machine motor
Such a useful thing as a working motor from an automatic washing machine should not lie idle in your garage.
Any self-respecting samodelkin hands will itch at the sight of such a promising part.
In this article we will tell you how to make a very good light and compact circular saw on the basis of such an engine, on which you can easily dissect fifty board or even a bar 10×10.
Attention! Assembling a circular saw with your own hands and its further use can be dangerous! So do not take up this case if you are not confident in your skills and safety regulations! This article is not a call to action. And remember, all responsibility for what you do lies solely with you!
