Rexant 15MSR-PB 2M
The model is suitable for indoor or outdoor use. Mounting is done with the use of fixing tape or by winding on the pipe in a spiral. The heating cable is connected to the supply cable, and there is a euro-plug on the opposite end, which plugs into a grounded outlet. Power. 30 W, the thickness of the cable is 8.44 mm. The sheath is resistant to chafing and quick wear and tear. For safe use of the set, the owner has the option of connecting it to a safety disconnect device.
Heating cable self-regulating REXANT 15MSR-PB 2M
Pros and cons of the heater from a heating cable
For many, a self-made heater seems to be a profitable invention from an economic point of view. However, given the fact that the heating element will have to buy, the cost is not always justified. Of the pluses of such a heater can be distinguished:
- Safety. The heating element is enclosed in a protective shell, which prevents burns or electrocution.
- Easy to make. For example, to assemble a stoneware heater and heating cable, it is sufficient to wind the heating element on the plate, which is the base of the product, and connect the power cord with a plug.
- Extensive range of use. The heater can be used outdoors to heat pipes, inside a wet or dusty room.
For a heater made of resistance cable, you have to buy sensors and a control unit
disadvantages of a homemade resistive cable. Regular single and double wire can not be cut into pieces. Without sensors and a control unit it is impossible to regulate the heating temperature. Overheating and melting of the insulation at the points of contact of the coils. The core can burn out due to power surges. When using self-regulating cable, the only disadvantage of the heater is its high cost.
Types of heating cables
Heating systems using low-temperature heaters are widely used in the arrangement of warm floors, equipment for local heating of satellite dishes, and, of course, for protected heating systems of industrial equipment, gutters and drains, water pipes and sewage.
There are four basic types of cable heaters:
- Semiconductor self-regulating cable. Used for heating gutters and downspouts of any structure in contact with moisture;
- Resistive cables are used for direct heating, most often in the construction of warm floors, heating parts that require a lot of heat;
- Inductive cable heaters, the simplest and most effective, heat transfer to the environment occurs due to electromagnetic waves and fields of industrial frequency, the efficiency is high enough, but in order to be released heat requires a conductive medium, such as water or metal;
- Carbon cable heaters. A relatively new technology that uses graphite and carbon fiber that conducts current.
Almost any of the following can be used for a homemade tile heater. The optimal variant depends on the power of the future heater, its location and method of use.
How to make a heater from heating cable by yourself
For most self-makers, the attempt to make a heater from heating cable with their own hands. it is not only an interesting experience, but also a relatively inexpensive opportunity to assemble a device, with which it is quite realistic to heat a small room. The design turns out simple, and most importantly. reliable and safe enough to be left on for a long period of time.
Use an old Soviet reflector!
A homemade infrared heater can be made from an old Soviet-made reflector. In addition to it you will need:
To make an IR fireplace from these things, follow the instructions:
- Remove the dirt from the reflector;
- Check the plug, cord and terminals to turn on the coil (they should be intact);
- Measure the length of the coil that is wound on the reflector cone;
- Cut a rod of steel the same length as the coil;
- Hang a nichrome filament on the rod so that there are 5 coils per centimeter;
- Carefully remove the rod from the nichrome winding;
- Place the coil on a plate (other dielectric) so that the coils do not touch each other;
- Connect the ends of the nichrome filament to the power supply;
- Now the heated coil will easily fit into the grooves of the cone from the reflector;
- Connect the ends of the coil with the contacts.
The nichrome filament will heat up better than the filament that was in the appliance prior to our manipulations. As a result, we get a powerful radiator, the energy of which is reflected from the walls of the reflector and hits the opposite bodies, which begin to absorb heat.
Appliances for local heating
The simplest models of homemade heaters are designed for local heating. Their maximum heating temperature is about 40 ° C.
Most of the heating homemade devices refer to radiant devices, acting on the principle of infrared heaters and electric heaters. Connect them to a single-phase network with the traditional household 220 V. Those wishing to engage in self-made devices need knowledge in electrical engineering and wiring.
Variant #1. Homemade compact thermal film
The base of the heater will be two pieces of glass. These are equal rectangles with dimensions 4×6 cm.
The length and width of the working area of the heater can vary. The main thing is that the area of each glass should be about 25 square centimeters.
To create such a homemade heater, you will also need:
- copper double-core cable;
- multimeter;
- wax candle;
- wooden bar;
- pliers;
- sealant; epoxy adhesive;
- cotton cloth;
- sanitary wands.
Before you begin, the cable must be equipped with a plug.
The first thing to do is to clean the glass workpieces, removing dust and dirt residues with a cloth, degrease and thoroughly dry. The cleaned blanks are cooled. This is necessary so that the subsequent baking will better settle the carbon on the surface.
Burn the candle installed in the candlestick. And then gripping each glass billet in turn with pliers by the corner, and carefully moving it over the candle so that the glass is covered with soot. It is necessary to achieve a uniform deposition of carbon on the entire surface of the glass; the burnt part will act as a conducting element.
Interrupt manipulations with the candle from time to time to let the heated glass cool down.
After the workpieces have cooled, clean the edges of each one. To do this, use sanitary pens to remove 5 millimetres from the edge along the perimeter.
On the burnt part, which will act as a current-conducting element, evenly apply glue, on top of which is attached a pre-prepared piece of foil. The strips will act as the terminals needed to connect the wires.
Do the same with the second half. Connect the two parts. To ensure the tightness of the device, the joints are treated with sealant, covering the entire perimeter of the end.
In order to calculate the power of the device, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the carbon coating using a tester. Place the stylus of the multimeter to the dangling “tails” of the aluminum foil. Use the data obtained to calculate with the formula:
where “N” is power, “I” is current and “R” is resistance.
The power must not exceed the permissible value of 1.2 W. If the resistance exceeds 120 ohms, to reduce it, it is necessary to make the soot layer a little thicker. Here the following rule applies: the more soot, the less electrical resistance.
If the parameters are within the norm. proceed to the final stage of assembly. For this purpose, the cleaned edges of the workpieces are smeared with glue, and the free ends of the foil pieces are bent and glued to one side.
You install the construction made of glass and foil on a wooden platform and connect the device to a 12-volt power supply.
Option #2. Heating panel from the leftovers of the infrared floor
If after the device heating infrared floor leftovers film, they can safely let in the matter of making a wall heater, for example, for dacha or garage.
Infrared film consumes less energy than other electrical heating devices. For a small room of about 2 x 2 m one meter of carbon fiber film system is enough.
Now you need to carefully insulate everything, so that the film does not spark at the contacts and do not create any threats in the process of its own work.
Option #3. The heater from improvised means
We offer another affordable way to make a homemade device for local heating, which is based on the principle of the fan heater. It takes no more than two hours to make it. The main advantage of this device is the ease of fabrication and the availability of the necessary materials.
Among the disadvantages of design should be included the fact that in the process of heating it will burn oxygen, and in some cases it even smells burned.
In addition to the tin can for the assembly of the heating structure you need to prepare:
- 12 volt transformer;
- diode bridge;
- Nichrome wire with a cross section of 1 mm 2 ;
- fan;
- a fine drill bit;
- soldering iron;
- computer fan.
It is necessary to cut two pieces of textolite in advance, the size of which corresponds to the dimensions of the selected jar. To connect the device to the network and switch modes, you will also need an electrical cord and a pushbutton switch.
The first thing to do with a piece of textolite remove the foil and cut out the inside so that there is a semblance of a frame.
The ends of the nichrome wire are sunk into the holes made. To the free ends of the wire, put under the frame, solder stripped of insulation “tails” of electrical wires.
The current density in nichrome electric spirals in contact with air is about 12-18A/mm 2. Depending on the degree of their heating, their color will vary from dark burgundy to bright red. The temperature of the external surface of the transmitter in this case does not exceed 70 degrees.
A diode rectifier and small 12 V transformer are needed to power the cooler.
To be able to regulate the temperature, you should consider installing at least two separated coils. Besides, by connecting the coils in parallel, if one coil burns out, the others will not be affected.
The most important thing when assembling the design is that the wound spirals do not touch any parts other than the textolite frame.
Install the fan into the jar with a U-shaped metal bracket, secured with a bolt. The current will heat the coils of wire, and the fan will blow the construction with a warm stream of air.
To ensure free access to air in the lid and walls of the jar is drilled 20-30 holes with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm. The assembled device is connected directly to the mains 220V and checked for proper operation. The radiating surface can be covered with a protective mesh for safety.
This fan heater is suitable for heating a small area. Like the industrial models of heaters, it will warm up the middle of the room in just a few minutes, without wasting precious heat on heat loss that goes through the walls.
Those wishing to make their own heater for the garage from improvised means a lot of useful information can be found in another popular article on our website.
Preparing the wire and plug for operation
First cut the wire in half and put a switch in the break. After all, constantly pulling and reinserting the plug into the socket is not too convenient. And if you have a switch you can make the task much easier.
This kind of circuit breaker is often installed on wall lamps. Even if you can’t find a switch in your closet, you can get one at any electrical supply store for next to nothing.
Testing carbon fibre heating wire. (with flame test)
Prologue
When testing the predecessor of the heater it turned out that its 100 watt output was not powerful enough to quickly dismantle large radio components. That’s when it was decided to build a 300 watt soldering iron.
Here is a link to a description of a 100 watt soldering iron for those who want to build a simpler one
The main difference between the new hair dryer and the previous one is the use of one power supply instead of two, as well as a more complex design of the heating element.
How to make a heater out of heating cable
The presence of external insulation on the heating element simplifies the assembly of the heater. Even a metal frame can be used as the base since current-carrying cores do not come into direct contact with each other. That is, it is not necessary to do the winding on stoneware, asbestos or other dielectric.
A rectangular aluminium frame can be used as the basis. Drill holes in opposite ends, pull through the heating element. The threads are not stretched too much, they give a little slack.
A frame made of aluminium corners can be used as the base for the heater
If a two-core heating resistive cable, current-conducting cores are connected on one side, put a shaped plug. Connect the power cable to the wires at the other end. To regulate the temperature, the system is equipped with sensors and a temperature regulator.
A single-core resistance cable is wound so that both ends of the heater are on one side. A power cable is connected to each strand.
The important thing is ! Insulate all exposed contacts with heat shrink tubing. It can be used instead of a shaped end cap if you want to save money.
Resistive and self-limiting cable is connected to the mains lead using terminals:
- First, the outside insulation is cut off at the end with a knife. If there are two cores, one of them must be shortened by 2 cm and stripped.
- The internal insulation is removed from the core, a heating tube with a small cross-section is put on. Slide it further along the wire. A piece of thicker heat pipe is put on the cable to serve as outer insulation.
- The stripped end of the core is pushed to one side of the pressing sleeve and clamped with pliers. The other end of the thermowell is inserted with the bare end of the powerline wire, similarly clamped with pliers. Do the same with the second heating wire.
- After the core-sleeves have been connected to the leads, the bare contacts are first covered with small thermo-tubes and heated with a hairdryer. Put a large diameter heat shrink tube on top to insulate the whole assembly. Warming with a hairdryer.
Once connected, try plugging the power cord into an outlet. If everything is done correctly, the heater will work.
